The Best of Israel

Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more travels.

This time we're venturing beyond Europe.

I'm wearing my yarmulke, and I'm ready to learn.

This is the best of Israel.

Thanks for joining us.

For a third of humanity, Israel is, literally, holy land,

and Jerusalem marks its sacred center.

For Christians,

this is where Jesus was crucified and resurrected.

For Muslims, this is from where Muhammad journeyed to Heaven.

And for Jews, this is where the Temple of Solomon stood.

The crossroads of three great religions,

the Holy Land has been coveted and fought over for centuries.

Israel is filled with a fascinating range of sights.

Jerusalem,

with its dazzling dome,

is alive with religious passion --

Christian, Muslim, and Jewish.

And cosmopolitan Tel Aviv enjoys

its in-love-with-life Mediterranean beaches.

Visitors ponder the fortress of Masada.

Pilgrims are spiritually refreshed

at the biblical sights around the Sea of Galilee.

And everybody can bob like corks

in the super-salty Dead Sea,

the lowest place on Earth.

Haifa, with its thriving, multicultural café scene,

shows promise as Israel grapples

with ongoing challenges.

In the Middle East, Israel

faces the Mediterranean Sea,

a Jewish state surrounded by

Muslim and Arab neighbors.

Today, the Holy Land,

the region west

of the Jordan River,

is split between Israel

and the Palestinian Territories

of the West Bank and Gaza.

For our visit,

we start in Jerusalem

then visit Masada, Tel Aviv,

and the Sea of Galilee.

We'll visit the West Bank -- also filled with

fascinating history and culture --

in another episode.

And the contentious issues Israelis and Palestinians

are grappling with is beyond this scope of this travel show.

Instead, we'll simply enjoy and explore Israel.

This country is small,

the size of New Jersey, with 8 million people.

While the state of Israel was founded

just after World War II,

the Jewish people have a history here

going back 4,000 years.

Within a two-hour drive of Jerusalem,

you can take a sweeping tour of sights illustrating

its tumultuous back-and-forth past.

2,000 years ago,

the ancient city of Caesarea

was one of the mightiest seaports

on the Mediterranean.

It was built by King Herod

of biblical fame and named after its patron, the Emperor,

or Caesar.

Imagine this place back then, vessels loaded with spices

and exotic goods setting sail for Rome.

Further up the coast

is the 12th century Crusader town of Akko.

Its walls seem to have been weathered as much

by history as by the sea.

The Crusades were rampaging armies

of European Christians who wrought havoc here.

Their goal?

To defeat the Muslims

and put the Holy Land back in Christian hands.

But Muslim dominance returned, and in the 16th century,

the Ottoman Turks surrounded Jerusalem

with this mighty wall.

And the 20th century has left reminders

of the determined Zionist spirit

that built today's Jewish state.

Pillboxes on the Golan Heights

recall Israel's commitment to holding the high ground.

Lush valleys farmed by cooperative communities

called kibbutzes

recall generations of patriotic Israelis

who turned the desert into orchards.

In 1947, after the Holocaust and the end of World War II,

the United Nations helped found the modern state of Israel,

and Jews, long dispersed across the world,

returned to their ancient homeland.

In the process, hundreds of thousands of Palestinians

were displaced, and to this day,

both people struggle to find an equitable and peaceful way

to share what each consider their rightful homeland.

This process has been difficult,

and both sides have suffered tragically.

Around here, one man's terrorist

is another man's freedom fighter.

In the name of defense against suicide bombers,

Israel has built what it calls a security fence

and what millions of Palestinians consider

a degrading and illegal land grab.

And Israel is further asserting itself

by building communities

for hundreds of thousands of Jewish settlers

across the West Bank border

in what Palestinians consider their territory.

While there are no easy answers,

as a travel writer,

I believe traveling here is important.

I connect with people whenever and wherever I can.

Just meeting people and talking helps build understanding.

WOMAN: Beautiful place to live in.

Jerusalem is a sprawling and modern city

of about 800,000 people.

Exploring its shopping boulevards and malls,

an American feels right at home.

But its historic core, The Old City,

home to around 35,000, feels lost in time.

Its venerable walls corral a tangle of vibrant sights.

Within a 10-minute walk,

you can see the Church of the Holy Sepulchre,

so sacred to Christians...

the Dome of the Rock, treasured by Muslims...

and at Temple Mount, the holiest place in Judaism,

the Western Wall.

For so many people,

Jerusalem is the closest place on earth

to heaven.

Much of Jerusalem's importance rests upon a very special rock,

which lies under this glittering dome.

Muslims believe Muhammad journeyed to heaven

from this rock, and they've worshiped here

for 1,300 years.

This glittering shrine, the Dome of the Rock,

is one of Jerusalem's enduring landmarks.

Intricate geometric designs in stone and tile

fit within its pure and simple lines.

While today this plaza functions

as massive mosque for Muslims,

Jews call this place Temple Mount.

It was the sight of their ancient temple complex,

only the foundation of which survives.

It's here that they believe Abraham,

as a test of his faith,

was asked to sacrifice his son, Isaac.

Considering this spot the center of the earth,

Jews have worshiped here for 3,000 years.

A thousand years before Christ,

King David united the 12 tribes of Israel

and captured Jerusalem.

His son, Solomon, built the First Temple right here.

It was later destroyed and the Second Temple was built.

Then came the catastrophic year for the Jews -- 70 AD --

when the Romans destroyed their temple

and ushered in the Diaspora.

That's when the Jews became a people without a land

and dispersed throughout the world.

Here, at that surviving bit of foundation,

called the Western Wall, Jews mourn a horrible past

and pray for a better future.

The square operates as an open-air synagogue.

[Praying in Hebrew]

The faithful believe prayers left in cracks

between these ancient stones will be answered.

It's a lively scene, with intense, yet private, worship

mixing with the joyous commotion of Jewish families

from around the world celebrating bar mitzvahs,

a ritual coming of age.

[Singing in Hebrew]

The Old City, corralled by its wall

into much less than a square mile,

is divided into four quarters --

Jewish, Muslim, Armenian, and Christian.

The Christian quarter surrounds the site of Jesus' crucifixion.

A high point for visiting Christians is the Via Dolorosa,

the route it's believed Jesus walked as he carried the cross.

Pilgrims from around Christendom retrace his steps.

The 14 Stations of the Cross

remind the faithful of the Passion,

the events that culminated in the crucifixion.

The pilgrims' journey ends

in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

on Calvary Hill, or Golgotha.

Today, the dark, sprawling church

is the most sacred site in Christendom.

While Emperor Constantine had the first church built here

in the 4th century, most of today's church

is the work of 12th century crusaders.

Built around the tomb, or sepulchre, of Jesus,

it's shared by Orthodox, Coptic,

and Roman Catholic Christians.

Each sect controls a part of this commotion of holy chapels,

a reminder of how any religion can be divided into factions.

Nearby is the slab upon which, it's believed,

Jesus' dead body was laid.

Devotion and emotion have been spilled onto this spot

for nearly 2,000 years,

a powerful experience to witness

regardless of your faith.

A Greek Orthodox chapel marks the site believed to be

where Jesus was crucified.

Only a few steps away,

under a grand dome,

pilgrims line up to enter the Holy Sepulchre

and place a candle near the tomb of Jesus.

The Old City is a labyrinth, rich with sights,

sounds, and experiences that reward the curious traveler.

-Hello.

-Hello.

I'd like a pomegranate juice, please.

Even stopping for a drink can be memorable.

And the pomegranate -- that symbolic bundle of fertility --

provides a welcome and refreshing break

between the rich sight-seeing stops this city offers.

MAN: Pomegranate is healthy,

it's good for the heart and good for the blood.

I hope you enjoy your drink.

Cheers.

-Ten shekels.

-Thank you, brother.

The Muslim Quarter

holds over half of the Old City's population.

Exploring its busy pedestrian lanes and market stalls,

you feel like you could be anywhere in the Arab world.

We visited just before a holy day.

The shops were jammed,

and the energy was exhilarating.

Experiences are often edible and tasty.

Just for you.

[Speaks indistinctly]

While complete Muslim control of Jerusalem is unrealistic,

many Arabs envision an independent Palestinian State

with this part of Jerusalem --

East Jerusalem -- as their capital.

It's a very contentious issue, and Israel seems determined

to keep Jerusalem whole and in its control.

In fact, while wandering the heart

of the Muslim Quarter,

you may see houses fortified and festooned

with Israeli flags.

These are the homes of Jewish families

staking out this bit of the Old City

for their community.

[Muezzin calling adhan]

The Jewish Quarter is more orderly

and modern than the other quarters.

Much of this area was destroyed during fighting in 1948

or under the ensuing period of Jordanian occupation.

After they took control of Jerusalem in 1967,

the Israelis rebuilt this quarter.

While it's not convenient or economical

to live in this medieval tangle,

devout Jews find great joy living

and raising their families so close to the Western Wall.

The Damascus Gate leads

from the Old City into modern Jerusalem.

Joining locals in an afternoon stroll

down Ben Yehuda Street in Jerusalem's New City,

we appreciate this culture's fascinating mix

of east and west, secular and sacred,

modern and traditional.

About three quarters of all Israelis are Jewish.

But most of these are secular Jews -- non-practicing.

About 15% of Israeli Jews are Orthodox,

very religious and living conservative lifestyles

that require them to be apart in many ways.

Entire districts of Jerusalem are known as ultra-Orthodox.

And about 20% of the population is Arab Israelis,

generally Muslim Palestinians who never left

after the formation of Israel.

Christians, who are mostly Arabs,

make up a very small and shrinking minority.

The diversity of Israel's Jewish melting pot community

shows itself in the way people dress.

This is especially evident

at places of worship and in ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods.

With the help of a local guide, like Abie Bresler,

simply people watching

comes with fascinating cultural insights.

Walking down the street, there are so many different fashions,

different ways people dress.

BRESLER: Well, that's because they express

their belonging to a certain group

and following a certain rabbi.

Different rabbis set standards

of how their followers should be dressed.

STEVES: What does the block on the forehead indicate?

BRESLER: Well, in the Scripture,

it says you should always have the love of God on your mind,

so in that capsule,

they have a parchment with that Scripture.

STEVES: What's the significance of the yarmulke?

BRESLER: Jews wear yarmulkes

because they are constantly reminding themselves

that God is above them.

STEVES: Ah, so everybody who's wearing a yarmulke,

it's a constant reminder their Maker is up above.

BRESLER: Definitely.

STEVES: Now, you see a lot of Orthodox,

even the little boys, with long earlocks.

BRESLER: Regarding the earlocks, the Torah is very specific --

"Thou shalt not shave the sides of your face."

And these people take those words as it is written.

STEVES: You notice women are dressed quite modestly.

BRESLER: The Orthodox women are always dressed modestly.

But when they get married,

they take it one step upwards,

and they cover their hair in public.

STEVES: Now, most people wear black, among the men.

Why is that?

BRESLER: The dominant color amongst the men is black

because they're still mourning the destruction of Jerusalem,

nearly 2,000 years ago.

Regarding the hats, it's part of, actually,

the uniform defining which movement you belong to.

So, by looking at somebody,

you can tell if he's Ashkenazi

and which movement amongst the Ashkenazi.

Or Sephardi or Lithuanian, and so on and so forth.

STEVES: This man has a striped robe.

BRESLER: That's a declaration that he belongs

to a certain movement, which is considered very extreme

and also does not acknowledge

the legitimacy of the state of Israel.

STEVES: So there are many different stripes

of Orthodoxy in the Jewish faith.

BRESLER: Definitely.

In Jerusalem, 19 amongst the ultra-Orthodox.

STEVES: And it's like the rabbis are almost like pop stars.

They have their own following.

These are the great teachers.

BRESLER: More than pop stars.

-More than?

-More than pop stars, sure.

Put it this way, they're spiritual stars,

without the pop.

Israel is laced by modern freeways.

By tour bus, public bus,

or rental car, getting around is easy.

Road signs are in three languages and three scripts.

Hebrew and Arabic for Jews and Arabs

and English for everybody else.

And the scenery can be dramatic.

Driving along the Dead Sea, the lowest place on Earth,

you marvel at the timelessness of the landscape

and the history it's witnessed.

Our destination -- Masada,

an ancient fortress dramatically capping a mountain

and the site of a pivotal event in Jewish history.

A gondola zips us effortlessly to the summit.

Built over 2,000 years ago

as one of King Herod's many palaces,

Masada served as a refuge

of last resort back when the Jews

were the rebellious subjects of Roman occupation.

In about 70 AD, the Roman Emperor Titus,

in an effort to put down the Jews once and for all,

destroyed Jerusalem.

About 1,000 Jewish rebels, in a desperate last stand,

fled up to this fortress to defend their families,

religion, and way of life.

A mighty army of Romans attacked.

You can still see the rocky remains of their camps.

To avoid a long, starve-'em-out siege,

the Roman army engineered and built a massive ramp

up the side of this mountain.

Slowly, as the rebels watched with frustration,

the ramp was completed.

The Jewish rebels realized

they were doomed to a life of slavery or worse,

so, on the eve of the inevitable Roman breakthrough,

Masada's rebels methodically took their own lives.

Today, that mass suicide is the symbol of Israel's staunch

"they'll never take us alive" commitment to freedom.

And "Masada shall never fall again"

is a popular slogan

declaring Israel's determination to remain free.

While Masada is etched into the psyche of Israelis,

perhaps even more so is the Holocaust.

The best place to both remember and learn about

the Holocaust is Yad Vashem, back in Jerusalem.

This sprawling and beautifully landscaped memorial and museum

is dedicated to chronicling,

remembering, and learning from the slaughter

of six million Jews by Nazi Germany.

School groups, visiting heads of state,

and soldiers are all brought here

to appreciate what the Holocaust means

to the Jewish people.

The museum artfully tells the story.

While working their way through

the thoughtfully laid out exhibit,

visitors struggle to comprehend

the madness and the scope of that nightmare.

The Hall of Names is designed to give every Jewish victim

the dignity of simply being named and recorded.

This archive aspires to catalog and, therefore, remember

each of the six million victims.

Yad Vashem also celebrates

the creation of modern Israel.

It shows the spirit of Zionism,

that determination of those who came

both as concentration camp survivors

and refugees from Europe

to forge a state for the Jewish people.

Photos of the first settlers show early Zionists

returning to their historic homeland,

starting as a trickle in the late 19th century

and becoming a flood after the Holocaust.

Today, just a few generations later,

the skyscrapers of Tel Aviv are like exclamation points,

declaring, "We've come a long way."

There was a popular slogan back then --

"A land without a people for a people without a land."

That was inspirational, but it ignored the reality

of the Palestinians who actually lived here

and were displaced with the creation of Israel.

Still, it's impressive how the true grit

of those early Jewish settlers

turned sand dunes into Tel Aviv and built modern Israel.

Tel Aviv is a young city.

If looking for historic charm,

you can stroll the original main drag,

Rothschild Boulevard,

with its nostalgic cafes and venerable buildings.

But Tel Aviv is gleamingly modern and growing fast.

Its infrastructure is impressive

and its new buildings look to the future.

Its beach scene comes with

some of the best sand on the Mediterranean.

A world away from the religiosity of Jerusalem,

the people here seem focused on living for today.

In this culture, food is love,

and it seems to celebrate the bounty of the land.

We sat down with our guide, Benny, and driver, Kobi,

to get an edible lesson in this part of Jewish culture.

Hey, cheers.

L'chaim.

L'chaim.

Very good.

So, Benny, could you say this is typical Israeli?

Yeah, you can say this is typical Israeli.

Everything that you see here is grown here locally.

STEVES: Now, you could say this is Israeli,

but it's also Arab cuisine.

BENNY: Yes.

We call it now Israeli food,

but you can find it in the Arab countries,

you can find it in Lebanon, you can find it all over the Middle East.

Here we have eggplants with olive oil and tahini.

Here we have the tahini itself.

Here we have another eggplant salad with vegetables.

That's the hummus.

Very famous hummus made from chickpeas.

This is something special.

This we call tabbouleh.

It's made of bulgur and parsley and cucumbers.

Very special, very tasty.

It's okay to reach and dip your pita bread into it.

You dip it in each of the salads,

and that's the way to do it, no need of a fork or a knife.

And, Kobi, how do you say bon appétit in Hebrew?

-Beteavon.

-Bete...

-Avon.

-Beteavon.

Thank you.

-L'chaim.

-L'chaim.

STEVES: A short drive up Israel's coastline

and then into the interior takes us down,

700 feet below sea level, to the Sea of Galilee.

Israel's primary source of fresh water,

it's both fed and drained by the Jordan River.

This area has long been popular with Israeli vacationers

and Christian pilgrims.

Galilee is famous as the place

where Jesus did his three years of ministry

and where so many Bible stories were set.

In the Jordan River,

the faithful believe John the Baptist baptized Jesus.

And today, Christians from all over the world

come here in droves

to affirm their Baptism with a dip

into that same fabled river.

[Applause]

This busy north end of Galilee

is where the Bible says Jesus walked on water,

calmed the storm,

and talked fishermen into changing careers.

In the Bible, Matthew wrote,

"As Jesus was walking beside the Sea of Galilee,

he saw two brothers, Peter and Andrew.

They were casting a net into the lake,

as they were fishermen.

And Jesus said, "Come follow me,

and I'll make you fishers of men."

The faithful come here to worship, be inspired,

and walk in the footsteps of Jesus.

In this church, a rock marks Mensa Christi,

the place where it's believed Christ,

resurrected after his crucifixion,

ate with his disciples

and said specifically to Peter, "Feed my sheep."

For Roman Catholics, this is a very important site,

as it established the importance of Peter,

the first pope,

among the disciples.

Another church is built upon the place where,

according to the Bible,

the 5,000 who gathered to hear Jesus preach

were miraculously fed by a few fish and loaves of bread.

This mosaic is from the original church

that stood here in the 5th century.

And this church, perched high above the Galilee,

on Mount Beatitude, marks the place

where Jesus gave the Sermon on the Mount.

Beatitude is Latin for "blessing."

The faithful come from far and wide

to remember how Jesus said,

"Blessed are the meek, for they shall inherit the earth.

Blessed are the peacemakers,

for they will be called the children of God.

And blessed are the merciful,

for they shall receive mercy."

This group, from Nigeria, is one more

spirited example of how so much of our world

embraces this land as truly holy.

[All singing]

Having sampled the great sights and experiences of Israel,

visitors, whether religious or not, leave impressed

by the amazing diversity of the sight-seeing

packed into this small country.

And it's hard not to be impressed by the richness

and complexity of the cultures

and traditions that have steeped

for so many centuries here in the Holy Land.

In this land, so treasured by Jews, Muslims, and Christians,

I'm reminded that the prophets of each of these religions

taught us to love our neighbors.

And the lessons learned from traveling here in Israel

can inspire us all to strive for that ideal.

I'm Rick Steves.

Until next time, keep on travelin'.

Shalom.