More Than One Way to Skin a Catfish

(Music plays) Catfish is misunderstood and I'm here to share some of the nuances behind the world's prettiest fish.

(Theme Music Plays- The Avett Brothers "Will You Return") I'm Vivian and I'm a chef.

My husband, Ben and I were working for some of the best chefs in New York City when my parents offered to help us open our own restaurant.

Of course, there was a catch.

We had to open this restaurant in Eastern North Carolina, where I grew up and said I would never return.

(Theme Music Plays) (Theme Music Plays) So this is my life.

Raising twins, living in the house I grew up in, and exploring the south, one ingredient at a time.

(Music plays) Previously on A Chef's Life.

We have a really good vibe in the kitchen right now.

Everybody seems to be working really well together and people really respond to John's leadership style.

My wife is finishing school so we're moving back to Durham.

I'll be sad for him to leave.

Yeah, December 5th is gonna be a sad day.

I'm gonna have to get more comfortable working in the kitchen because John's leaving.

Okay, so I'm gonna be here everyday this week but Saturday.

Okay.

And I'm gonna be coming in in the mornings, assuming I don't get ummm edits back from my editor.

In that case I'll come in a little later so I can get that taken care of in the morning.

So, Wednesday, the ambrosia catfish crudo will replace the rouge pea dumplings.

Alright, so I'll make sure the catfish is here Thursday.

Can John pick it up?

He's not coming from Greenville.

Okay.

So, he really doesn't have a major role this week, I'm assuming?

Uhh uh.

Alright, thank you.

(Music plays) It's John's last week and we're trying to pretend like he's not here because in a week he won't be.

One of the things he's been doing for the past year is picking up the catfish on his way to work.

So we're gonna have to find someone else who is willing to do that.

We get our catfish from Carolina Classics in Ayden.

There's a lot of uneasy feelings about farm raised fish in general so when you're talking about catfish that already gets a bad rap, that's grown on a farm, you're shooting pretty low on the totem pole.

-Hey.

-Hi Vivian.

I'm Rob.

Rob Mayo.

Nice to meet you.

Your product is like the most consistent thing we have coming through our kitchen, probably.

Great to hear.

So, did you grow up here in Eastern North Carolina?

I grew up in Tidewater, Virginia.

I guess that's what got me into this business.

I grew up on the water and my next door neighbor was a commercial fisherman so I spent every morning over on his dock.

I got an engineering degree and decided I didn't want to be a typical engineer so I ended up here in Eastern North Carolina.

So, why did you isolate catfish farming as something that you thought might take off?

The mildness of the fish.

It takes sauces really well.

It takes just about any style of cooking.

Almost like chicken in terms of versatility.

So, the whole issue of farm raised fish.

People are either advocates for it or they are absolutely against it.

Most of the people who got into fish farming did it for all the right reasons.

We in the US are voracious fish eaters and we need a source for that.

This was a way to do it.

It's an environmentally sound way of doing it.

We don't eat all the wild animals on land.

Why does it make any sense at all that we wouldn't farm fish?

Right.

We're eating all the fish out of the sea.

That's right.

As fast as we can it seem like.

I mean we see you guys as like a sustainable option for us.

Good for our local economy.

I mean I'd like to change people's' attitudes toward catfish.

So, what have we got going on over here?

So, this is a typical pond harvest.

We take a net and we string it out along one end of the pond and we take two tractors and basically pull that net slowly through the pond.

Oh, wow!

Yeah, I see that you're kind of...

I was gonna say something really stupid.

You're catching them.

(Laughter) Hold him up.

Hold him up.

The net has square holes in it and because catfish is a rounded fish and it doesn't have scales, it allows the small fish to go right through the net and it will retain the fish that you want.

(Music plays) Okay guys, what do you think we got?

I'd say there's ten thousand pounds.

Is that good?

Oh yeah, that's a good bunch of fish.

This is Tom, our "Fish Doctor."

Hey.

I'm Vivian.

You better not shake my hand.

We do this in the kitchen.

Yes!

Sounds good.

Hey Charles!

Hook a brother up please.

(Music plays) Have you ever netted this whole pond and not gotten fish?

You know, I was thinking as we were pulling along, will there really be fish in there?

Which is a bit irrational fear but... (Laughter) I know about irrational fears.

How long does it take for it to get to two pounds?

The average age is about two years.

Wow!

That's longer than I thought.

It's a fairly long cycle and it's all pretty natural.

We haven't done any kind of genetic change to the animal or anything like that to make it grow faster.

We've just selected rootstock that seemed to be hearty and healthy.

We're gonna do a catfish ceviche tonight.

Do you have any experience with that?

I've had it and I liked it.

Yes.

Well, you have to say that.

No.

(Laughter) I'm telling the truth though.

I don't see why it wouldn't be great, you know?

Yeah.

I think it's just about changing people's perceptions of what it is.

Yeah.

(Music plays) Oh wow!

So, this is an average size fish?

Yes.

Can I pick it up?

So, are catfish called catfish because of these things?

I guess that's a stupid question.

And of course the silly thing people say, there's more than one way to skin a cat, they're really talking about skinning a catfish.

Oh, they are?

Yeah.

I had no idea.

So, the fish come in live.

They're dumped into this vat.

They're weighed and then they are conveyed into the plant.

They're electroshocked on the way in.

So, that's when it ends?

Right through there.

That's right.

Then, we have two machine lines that are set up for a specific sized fish where they are quickly turned into filet halves.

You'll see there are a whole bunch of folks that are trimming those filets, making them look pretty, making them look perfect, and removing the belly portion of the nugget from the filet.

Simply put, our fish are swimming here and we're turning them into filets as quickly as we can.

So, my sous chef John lives in Greenville.

Well, actually he's moving.

Today is his last day and he's been picking up our catfish on his way to work so we might have to work something else out.

I know John from him stopping in here and I'm sorry that he's not gonna be doing it anymore.

Yeah, me too.

Me too.

We're gonna figure it out Yeah, we're gonna figure it out.

I will miss him.

So... (Music plays) I got that.

It was the most interesting one.

It looks like a lemon.

It looks like it's in the lemon family.

OS- Yeah.

It's really good for back rubs.

It's a lot of hands.

So, John, is today your last day or tomorrow?

Would you like it to be today?

No.

I mean I'm not gonna be here tomorrow.

Tomorrow.

You won't be here tomorrow?

No.

Purposely.

Why?

I don't say goodbye to people.

Oh okay.

I was gonna say it was tomorrow and then just not show up so I don't have to say goodbye to anybody.

(Music plays) So, I'm working on a ceviche using the tail end of our catfish.

You know, we've started doing this cool wood-roasted catfish in the oven and it's really nice because the big meaty parts of the catfish roast and take on a nice flavor from the oven.

The end portion is just not that exciting so we're gonna use it in a cured fish preparation and hopefully people will buy it.

What are you making?

Catfish ceviche.

It's the first thing I think of when I think of ceviche.

(Laughter) To take a fish that most people only eat once it's been breaded and deep fried and suggest that they eat it raw is pretty presumptuous of me.

Catfish ceviche doesn't really have a ring to it.

It's the beginning of December so you know we do a lot of things around the holidays to kind of speak to the holidays.

So, this ceviche is gonna be around the whole idea of ambrosia.

So this is gonna be a catfish ceviche with orange and coconut.

So, ceviche is a fish dish that is not actually raw.

It's fish that's cooked by citrus.

I keep calling what I'm making a ceviche but I'm not going to let the fish marinate in the citrus long enough for it to completely cook.

Traditional ceviche would be white and opaque on the outside.

We're not gonna let it go that long but I am going to toss it with the citrus just a few minutes beforehand so it does start to cook.

So, Vivian I heard you're going to be in the Pink Hill Parade.

I am!

What time does the parade start?

Two o'clock.

Y'all should come.

I might bring the kids.

Yeah, I'm the...

I guess the grand marshal of the Pink Hill Christmas Parade.

That's pretty cool.

So, you can see how the fish flesh is changing color and that's just from the acid in the citrus.

So that's what it means by cooking the fish with acid.

Catfish are ugly.

They are.

I got very intimate with some this morning.

Wow, really?

You wanna see?

Awww.

Where was that at?

That was at the catfish factory.

And then he wiggled and it bothered me.

(Laughter) (Music plays) You know, I was out of the kitchen so long working on my cookbook that I forgot what it was that drew me to restaurant work in the first place.

The camaraderie of the kitchen.

Everybody working alongside of each other toward a common goal.

That's what I really love and it feels really good to be back.

So, let me show you how we're doing this so you can do it in the future.

For the wood-roasted catfish as well as the ceviche.

So we're cutting it down the center here... Mmm hmmm.

And taking out this bloodline because we've found that it's kind of chewy.

And if you cut in like this when you're cutting it down the seam, you can actually take that part away with that first slice.

At a bit of an angle?

Yeah.

Okay.

So, we're just gonna take that away.

It's the least desirable part of the fish and you can see all that fat and cartilage.

So these tail pieces, which nobody gets excited about, we're gonna use for the ceviche.

Okay.

We're just gonna discard it so what you're left with is this really beautiful fish filet that is the same thickness throughout, so this is going to cook evenly.

-Anything else?

-That's it.

Alright.

Cool.

(Music plays) Okay.

Okay, so we're gonna pick up a catfish.

Alright.

And then remember you just want to keep it really compact on one side of your pan so that you know, it doesn't burn all the way around on the edges.

So are you nervous about working this station tonight?

I mean I wouldn't really say nervous.

I did it a couple nights.

I mean I'm always anxious until I get the first couple of dishes out.

Should I be?

No, no, no, no.

(Laughter) One of John's primary responsibilities is expediting and since he's leaving we have to find a replacement so we keep shuffling people around to try and determine the best fit.

That in itself is a stressor on the kitchen because the food is more consistent when people work the same station night after night.

Almost every time I was picking up orders, it was like five to seven at a time.

Right.

Obviously the quality of the food is most important, but you know, it's kind of difficult.

Just be mindful of it.

Yeah.

How many of those are you searing?

I've seared 22.

How many people are there?

23 If there are 23 people and you've seared 22 ribeyes we're gonna waste some ribeyes.

And Steven, you're new and so if you have questions about like, how many we should sear, I'm happy to answer those questions.

Yes ma'am.

(Music plays) OS- Okay, everybody listen up.

So, this is a wood-roasted catfish in the style of Hoppin' John so the peas are pea sprouts.

They are tossed with rice, scallions, and then they are sitting on top of a little fennel aioli.

And we take the catfish and we rub what I'm calling a Cajun rub on it.

Then that is glazed in a ham hock jus.

So, what we're doing with those end pieces is we're making a ceviche with them.

So, I know catfish ceviche is not gonna you know be like a crab cake.

Everybody's not going to order it but I thought we would try it and see what people think.

So if anybody doesn't have plans on Sunday, I am going to be the grand marshal in the Pink Hill Christmas Parade.

(Laughter) OS- Alright now, you've really reached the big time!

I have finally arrived!

Alright, so y'all taste this.

We're going to have a new dish tomorrow and I'm going to show it to John and he'll present it to y'all tomorrow one last time.

OS- Oh, don't talk about it.

OS- We're gonna miss him so much.

Aww.

OS- I'm gonna get a little teary eyed tomorrow.

OS- We all will.

I went in the back and Kendra is crying.

OS- Aww (Laughter) You know, it's a big testament to you John because sometimes people leave and nobody even knows.

Or we're like thank God!

(Laughter) (Music plays) OS- Is everyone ready?

Candles are lit.

I think we're ready to go.

Alright.

It's almost showtime.

We're not sure how long it's gonna take to find a replacement for John or even what we're looking for exactly.

So, there's a lot of anxiety in the kitchen.

Everybody's kind of worried about who's gonna take the reigns.

Alright, where the hell are you?

Walking in, oysters, I need two catfish and two chop.

Heard.

Walking in, oysters.

I need five on that one, a carpacci... woah, a carpaccio, and a grit.

Alright, I'm gonna need you to get me another catfish in.

It is really good.

What happened?

It's like the fourth time he's done this so tell him if he's not here in like 20 minutes he's fired.

OS- Okay.

Jose and Joseph will jump in on dish for the rest of... for as long as we can.

Joseph!

What are you doing?

Alright, work dish.

We'll be fine.

Yeah.

We'll be okay.

Thank you.

(Music plays) John and Justise have done a great job.

They're kind of like a little mini dream team.

And now that I'm here watching them handle stressful situations I remember how hard that can be and I'm dreading re-entry.

Alright, so I'm getting four flounder, followed by one catfish, three pastas, four chops.

Two flounders right here.

Eleven.

Come back for two chops.

I'm tired of being the bad guy.

I have to be the bad guy again though, I think.

Pizza.

86 peppers, add pepperoni.

They actually want that as a share plate.

Copy that.

86 peppers, add pepperoni.

Can we ask them if they know there's pepper in the roni?

I don't know why that's like funny right now because nothing else is!

41.

John, I got in touch with him.

He said he has a stomach virus.

Do you want me to call someone else?

Can we see if the Boiler Room has someone they can spare?

(Music plays) You know, I feel almost guilty because I've been over at my office protected from all the stress of the kitchen and staff and who's not coming to work today and who might be sick tomorrow.

Ummm yeah...it's been nice to write that cookbook.

(Music plays) Start out with a little bubbles?

It will go very nice with the catfish ceviche.

Hey Chef!

What now?

Can I get a ceviche?

Oh, great.

So, it's safe to say my catfish ceviche is not a hit.

I'm pretty sure someone put Warren up to ordering it.

Catfish ceviche!

I thought it was gonna be fried catfish.

I got all excited!

(Laughter) But that's unfortunate because it's absolutely delicious and if it said fluke ceviche or snapper ceviche I'm sure it would be flying out of the kitchen.

Poor catfish.

Let's go.

Got it?

Who wants to taste this ceviche?

I do.

Woo woo!

The orange, the coconut.

I got the jalapeno.

This is really good.

The coconut is a nice surprise.

It is delicious.

What's your plan for your first day off?

We don't have a plan and we're not rushing to make one.

We're just gonna relax.

It's gonna be so weird.

Ohhh!

You guys are totally blurry.

There you are.

You got it.

Oh, right over here.

I'm sorry I'm leaving the kitchen but I'm coming onto the crew.

(Laughter) You want me to clog for you?

Yes!

I am not doing that again.

Chef.

Aces.

Well, I'm sorry that y'all didn't get to see John's last day but be assured that it was lots of ugly crying swollen face.

Umm, it was very sad.

I don't think that I have ever been so disappointed when someone left.

But a lot of people have left and Ben and I realized early on that we are the only people who are staying.

Is that what you're wearing to the parade?

Mmm hmm.

Is that what you're wearing to the parade?

Mmm hmm.

I know better than that.

I hope I do at least.

What do you want me to wear?

Something else?

Yes!

Okay, so what have we got here?

This is your boat.

I'm just on it.

Oh really?

I didn't know that.

Well, I'm gonna assist you.

(Music plays) Even though catfish is good for so much more, I cannot have an episode about it without my mom frying some.

Okay, so you put white corn meal?

Why white?

I just like it.

It's a little finer.

Wait.

Don't you need some salt or anything in there?

You're right.

I'm getting...

I know that hurt you hard to say that.

I'm getting the horse before the cart.

I guess that's... You put it on.

Your hands are better than mine.

Put it on here?

I put it on the fish.

Okay.

These are really pretty catfish.

They are.

I remember, I have a very vague memory of Dorothy Mae.

She would dress my fish for me.

Dressing fish on the front porch of my playhouse.

I mean, so few home cooks would be able to dress a fish today.

Well, I'm sure of that.

Why would they?

You got the fish market.

Yeah it's just...

It's just a skill.

Just a skill that very few people have.

Okay, so you got canola oil.

What would Grandma Hill have used?

She would have probably used Crisco.

I just got a text from my editor.

Is it good or bad?

I've been waiting for over a month for the first round of comments and he's having a hard time.

I can't imagine that that's good.

Okay, let's try it.

Did y'all go to the restaurant last night?

Yes.

Did you speak to John?

Oh, I went and asked and he had just left.

I was sorry I didn't.

I'm gonna miss him.

They said he had a hard day also.

I cried like a baby on Friday night.

He told me that I was his mentor.

That is special.

Very special.

Alright Mom I think it's getting too hot.

Okay, turn it down.

Hey Dad.

Oh Mom, the paper towel is on fire.

Where?

Right there.

(Fire alarm goes off) Oh no!

It will go off in just a second.

At least it works.

Okay slaw.

Mom's cornbread.

Hey John Mark.

Mom, you did a good job.

If the fish is fresh you can't mess it up.

Well, I think catfish gets an unfair bad rap because I think it's delicious.

I love it.

Hey Flo.

Are you ready to put on a pretty dress and go to the parade?

I think that coat might look better without the blue over it.

It makes you look so big and bulky.

It's bulky looking.

Ummm, just let me... just give me a minute.

Okay.

(Band plays) Now, we have a job to do.

You know what it is?

Wave to people and smile.

Wooo!

Oh my God!

I don't wanna wave, Mommy.

(Laughter) Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas!

Hey, Merry Christmas!

Mom, why do they have all the candy?

That's what happens in a parade.

People ride and they throw out candy but we didn't bring any candy.

-Hey!

Merry Christmas!

-Merry Christmas!

Mom, why do they have all the candy?

Hey!

Flo wants a piece of candy.

Oh!

Thank you!

Daddy!

Alright, now you both got a piece of candy.

Flo, you need to turn around.

But why do those people have all the candy?

Flo you need to turn around.

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas!

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