Full Episode: A Few Good Pie Places

PEOPLE LOVE PIE.

IT'S JUST DELICIOUS, PURE AND SIMPLE.

OH, IT'S JUST A PERFECT FOOD.

IT'S FRUITY!

I MEAN PIES ARE MADE GENERALLY FROM FRUIT.

AND A GOOD CRUST, CRUST THAT YOU DON'T HAVE TO HAVE A CHAIN SAW TO GET THROUGH IT.

IT'S A LOT OF FUN, AND IT'S MORE FUN WITH A LITTLE ICE CREAM ON TOP BESIDES.

IF I CAN ONLY EAT ONE OTHER FOOD FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE, IT'D BE PIE.

PIE JUST GIVES YOU A SENSE OF COMFORT.

I LOVE ANY KIND OF PIE -- SWEET PIE.

Sebak: IN A BIG VARIETY OF FLAVORS, PIES HAVE THE SIMPLE SWEET ABILITY TO PLEASE PEOPLE FOR LOTS OF REASONS.

IT HAS CRUST AND FRUIT.

IT HAS ALL THE BEST THINGS PUT TOGETHER.

I DON'T KNOW, IT'S KIND OF AN AMERICAN TRADITION THING, I GUESS.

Connie: AND PIE IS GOOD, YOU KNOW.

THERE'S A WHOLE QUART OF FRUIT IN EACH ONE, AND YOU'VE GOT TO EAT FRUIT.

IT'S PRACTICALLY GOOD FOR YOU.

GO!

Sebak: SO WE'VE GONE LOOKING FOR PIES ACROSS THE UNITED STATES, FROM MAINE TO MONTANA.

Paula: PEOPLE THINK THAT THEY CAN'T MAKE PIE, SO THEY SEARCH OUT PLACES TO BUY PIE.

YOU KNOW, PROBABLY DIFFERENT STATES ARE KNOWN FOR DIFFERENT TYPES OF PIES.

COMFORT FOOD, IT'S UNITED STATES, MINNESOTA, IT'S COMFORT FOOD JUST LIKE BASEBALL AND EVERYTHING ELSE.

I GET A LOT OF CUSTOMERS SAY, "OH, THIS REMINDS ME OF WHAT MY GRANDMA USED TO MAKE."

JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF SUGAR, FRESH RIPE FRUIT, AND A REALLY CRUSTY CRUST.

Sebak: WE'VE TASTED PIES AND TALKED TO PEOPLE WHO MAKE THEM AND EAT THEM.

I DON'T REALLY LIKE DESSERT, BUT I LOVE PIE.

Chris: PIE IS SO APPROACHABLE.

EVERYONE HAS HAD IT BEFORE, EVERYONE KNOWS, IT SPEAKS TO EVERYONE, IT'S HOMEY, IT'S COMFORTING.

LIKE, HOMEMADE APPLE PIE IS LIKE MY FAVORITE.

Sebak: WE NEVER WANT TO CLAIM THAT THIS IS A LIST OF AMERICA'S BEST PIES.

IT'S THE ONE YOU'RE EATING AT THE MOMENT IS YOUR FAVORITE PIECE.

Sebak: THERE'S NO WAY WE COULD DISCOVER AND INCLUDE ALL THE WORTHY SPOTS.

WE JUST HOPED TO FIND A FEW GOOD PIE PLACES.

WE KNOW THERE ARE MORE, AND WE'LL KEEP LOOKING.

AND WE HOPE YOU WILL, TOO.

I WOULDN'T TRUST SOMEBODY IF THEY DIDN'T EAT PIE.

[ LAUGHS ] "A FEW GOOD PIE PLACES" NO REAL PIE RULES, BUT YOU CAN OFTEN FIND A GOOD PIE PLACE IN A SMALL TOWN, LIKE IN WESTFIELD, NEW YORK.

Jack: I JUST CAN'T BELIEVE I GOT A -- WE GOT A PIE SHOP.

A GREAT PIE SHOP.

THE BEST PIES IN NEW YORK STATE.

Sebak: THE PLACE IS CALLED PORTAGE PIE.

IT'S OWNED AND OPERATED BY THE THAYER FAMILY -- CONNIE, HER HUSBAND JACK, AND THEIR SON JACK.

Connie: THE CHAUTAUQUA INSTITUTION IS ABOUT 8 MILES AWAY, SO THAT BRINGS US A LOT OF BUSINESS.

WE GET PEOPLE FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD HERE.

IT'S REALLY AWESOME.

YOU GOT ANYTHING THAT'S A BIG PIE, LIKE TWO BIG PIES MAYBE?

BLUEBERRY, CHERRY, RED RASPBERRY, AND STRAWBERRY RHUBARB.

MY HUSBAND AND I BOUGHT THIS BUILDING 2009 WHEN WE FIRST LOOKED AT IT.

IT WAS IN REALLY ROUGH SHAPE.

AND EVERYBODY IN TOWN THOUGHT WE WERE ABSOLUTELY NUTS TO MAKE A PIE SHOP HERE.

AND FURTHERMORE NUTS TO EVEN MAKE A PIE SHOP.

FOR YEARS, SHE MADE PIES FOR MY SISTER AT A FRUIT STAND OVER IN MAYVILLE, AND...PEOPLE ALWAYS LOVED HER PIES.

I DON'T KNOW ANY OTHER THING TO SAY.

SHE SAID, HERE'S WHAT I WANT YOU TO DO, AND I DID IT.

I MEAN, THAT'S WHAT I DO FOR HER.

'CAUSE I LOVE HER, YOU KNOW.

I WILL TAKE CHERRY AND BLUEBERRY.

CHERRY AND BLUEBERRY.

THAT'S $32.

OKAY.

AND I'LL BE RIGHT BACK WITH THE CHERRY.

JACK JR. QUIT HIS JOB AS AN ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENTIST TO COME HOME AND WORK WITH PIES.

Jack Jr.: I WASN'T HERE WHEN THE DOORS OPENED, BUT YOU KNOW, AS FAR AS I CAN TELL, IT WAS SLOW FOR LIKE THE FIRST MAYBE COUPLE OF WEEKS, BUT THEN I THINK AS SOON AS PEOPLE STARTED TRYING IT, IT JUST TOOK RIGHT OFF.

Connie: AND WE'VE BEEN JUST SELLING PIES EVER SINCE.

WE SELL SOMETIMES A HUNDRED A DAY OR EVEN MORE, SO WE'RE REALLY -- IT'S BEEN JUST BUSY, BUSY, BUSY.

WE'RE TRYING CHERRY FOR THE FIRST TIME.

TRY THE PECAN.

Bill: WELL, I CAME HERE TO OPEN A RESTAURANT, AND SOMEBODY SAID, WHAT ARE YOU GONNA DO FOR DESSERT?

I SAID, I HAVE NO IDEA, AND THEY SAID, "WELL, GO SEE PORTAGE PIE ACROSS THE STREET."

Connie: JUST STANDARD PIE-MAKING STUFF HERE.

I CAME AND SAW CONNIE AND SAID, "HEY, WE WANT TO USE YOUR PIES IN OUR RESTAURANT," AND SHE SAID, "I'M NOT GIVING YOU A DISCOUNT."

EVERYBODY SEEMS TO LIKE OUR PIES, SO...

I SAID, WELL I DIDN'T ASK FOR A DISCOUNT, DID I?"

SHE SAID, "WELL, NO."

I SAID, "DON'T YOU SELL EVERY PIE YOU MAKE?"

SHE GOES, "YEAH."

I SAID, "I WOULDN'T GIVE ANYBODY A DISCOUNT EITHER."

WE DON'T HAVE ANY PROBLEMS SELLING THEM.

SHE SAID, "OH.

I LIKE YOU."

SHE SAID, "ALL RIGHT, WE CAN DO BUSINESS."

THE SECRET IS, THERE'S NO SECRETS.

Jack: WE WORK PRETTY GOOD TOGETHER.

WE START AROUND 6:00 OR 6:30 IN THE MORNING.

AND THEN WE BASICALLY, YOU KNOW, RATHER THAN GET HERE AT LIKE 1:00 OR 2:00, WE'D RATHER JUST SELL WARM PIES AS THE DAY GOES ON.

WE GOT AN APPLE CRUMB.

SMELLS GOOD AND IT'S RED HOT.

I DON'T THINK I HAD A GOOD CRUST UNTIL I MET MY WIFE.

I'D ALWAYS SAY, I DON'T LIKE PIE TOO MUCH.

SHE'D BE LIKE, "YOU GOTTA BE KIDDING ME!"

[ MUTTERING ] BUT NOW I REALLY LOVE IT 'CAUSE I FINALLY REALIZED HOW GOOD IT WAS.

SIMPLE RECIPE FOR THE CRUST, AND IT TASTES REALLY GOOD.

FLOUR, CRISCO, SALT, AND WATER -- THAT'S IT.

NOTHING SPECIAL.

IT'S THE IRREGULARITIES IN THE CRUST THAT REALLY GIVE IT THE FLAKINESS, SO...IF YOU USE TOP-QUALITY FRUIT, TOP QUALITY INGREDIENTS AND ROLL THE DOUGH OUT PROPERLY, BAKE THEM PROPERLY, YOU GOT A PIE.

APPLE TWO-CRUST.

TRADITIONAL APPLE PIE.

NEEDS A LITTLE MORE TIME.

THEY NEED TO BAKE FOR MORE THAN AN HOUR.

IF THEY'RE NOT BOILING IN THE MIDDLE, THEY'RE NOT DONE.

IF YOUR OVEN DOESN'T LOOK LIKE SOMEBODY TRIED TO START A FIRE IN IT, YOU'RE NOT MAKING THE PIES RIGHT.

[ LAUGHS ] Sebak: ON SOME DAYS, GRANDCHILDREN WILL COME TO LEARN SOME OF THE FAMILY BUSINESS.

Connie: BUT EVERYBODY IN MY FAMILY IS A REALLY EXCELLENT PIE MAKER, SO THAT'S WHY, TO ME, WHEN PEOPLE GET SO EXCITED ABOUT OUR PIES, I JUST THINK THEY'RE REGULAR PIE.

THAT'S HOW THEY'RE SUPPOSED TO BE.

WE HAD THE HONOR OF MAKING A PIE FOR KEN BURNS THIS SUMMER.

HE WAS AT THE CHAUTAUQUA INSTITUTION FOR THE WEEK, AND WE WERE ABLE TO GET A PIE INTO HIM, SO IT WAS REALLY -- IT'S AN HONOR.

IT'S GREAT.

I HAVE A KEN BURNS SIGNATURE.

WHAT CAN I SAY?

IT'S GREAT, I THINK.

Connie: IT'S HARD TO BELIEVE, ISN'T IT?

THAT YOU CAN ACTUALLY MAKE A LIVING.

I MEAN, WE BOUGHT EVERYTHING IN THIS BUILDING WITH PIE.

IT'S FUNNY BECAUSE WHEN WE HAVEN'T HAD ONE FOR A WHILE, WE'LL LIKE, "OH, LET'S EAT ONE OF THOSE PIES," AND IT'S LIKE, "OH, YEAH, NOW I GET IT WHY EVERYBODY LIKES THESE PIES."

NOW WE KNOW WHY THEY LIKE THEM.

Sebak: THERE ARE MANY REASONS WHY PEOPLE LIKE PIES, AND FRUIT PILED UP LIKE A MOUNTAIN MIGHT BE ONE.

IF YOU'RE IN THE FOOTHILLS OF THE SIERRA NEVADAS IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA, AND YOU'RE ON THE OLD LINCOLN HIGHWAY, YOU WILL WANT TO STOP AT THIS PLACE CALLED IKEDAS.

Glen: WE ARE A ROADSIDE STAND, A ROADSIDE FRUIT STAND, WITH VERY FINE WINES, NICE MEATS, AND FANTASTIC APPLE PIES.

THEY HAVE THE BEST PIE IN ALL OF PLACER COUNTY.

Man: WE DON'T LIVE NEARBY, SO WE'RE ALWAYS TRAVELING BACK AND FORTH TO A CABIN UP IN TRUCKEE, SO WE TRY TO STOP HERE.

ON THE WAY UP, IT WAS BLUEBERRY.

ON THE WAY BACK, IT'S RAZZLEBERRY.

THEY'RE REALLY THE BEST PIES I'VE EVER HAD.

Sebak: GLEN IKEDA HAS WORKED HERE SINCE HE WAS A BOY.

Glen: MY PARENTS STARTED FARMING, OH, IN THE '40s.

THEY WANTED TO SELL THEIR FRUITS TO THE LOCALS.

WE BUILT THIS STORE HERE IN 1970, BUT IN THE '50s, THEY WERE ACTUALLY A LITTLE WAGON ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, IS HOW THEY STARTED.

SO IT'S ABOUT 50, 50-60 YEARS WE'VE BEEN HERE.

USED TO BE A LITTLE, TINY FRUIT STAND, AND, YOU KNOW, THE PIES ARE STILL GREAT.

Glen: I SAID LET'S TAKE SOME OF THAT RIPE FRUIT -- WE WERE ALREADY MAKING TOO MUCH JAM AND JELLY -- AND WE DEVISED A WAY TO MAKE PIES OUT OF THE FRESH RIPE FRUIT.

AND FROM THERE, WE SAID IF I COULD SELL 30 PIES A DAY, I COULD BREAK EVEN.

AND THE FIRST DAY WE SOLD A HUNDRED PIES.

AND NOW WE'RE MORE POPULAR FOR OUR PIES THAN WE'RE ACTUALLY EVERYTHING ELSE IN THE STORE.

WE MAKE THE APPLE AND ALL THE BERRY PIES FRESH EVERY SINGLE DAY.

EVERYTHING IS DONE BY HAND.

WE DON'T DO MACHINERY, SO THE PIES ALL ARE DONE BY DIFFERENT WORKERS.

YOU'LL SEE EVERY PERSON HAS A CERTAIN TYPE OF CRIMP, EVERY PERSON HAS A CERTAIN TYPE OF LAYOUT, HOW THEY PUT THE CRUST ON.

WE GROW THE FRUIT THAT GOES INTO THE PIES.

I THINK THAT'S A VERY IMPORTANT PART OF WHY OUR PIES ARE SO GOOD.

Sebak: THE IKEDA FARMS ARE JUST A COUPLE OF MILES AWAY, AND GLEN SAID HE'D SHOW US SOME OF THE TREES.

Glen: WE ARE IN THE RANCH THAT GROWS ALL THE APPLES AND THE PEACHES AND THE BERRIES THAT WE PUT INTO OUR PIES.

IT'S ABOUT 45 ACRES.

10 OF IT IS APPLES.

30 ACRES IN NECTARINES AND PEACHES.

Sebak: BUT THESE TREES AREN'T FULL OF FRUIT RIGHT NOW.

Glen: THEY ARE DORMANT.

THEY ARE SLEEPING.

AND YOU NEED TO HAVE ENOUGH COLD WEATHER THAT THEY SLEEP FOR AT LEAST A MONTH AND A HALF.

OTHERWISE THE FRUIT DOESN'T SET AS WELL.

ALBERTO IS HERE, AND HE'S FARMING AND GETTING THE TREES READY FOR THE SPRING WHEN THEY'LL SET WITH BLOSSOMS AND WE'LL GET FRUIT, HOPEFULLY.

WE GOTTA GET SOME WATER THIS YEAR, ALBERTO.

NO WATER -- WE'RE IN TROUBLE.

YES.

Sebak: APPLES THAT ARE PROPERLY STORED CAN BE USED THROUGH THE WINTER MONTHS, AND HERE MANY END UP COMING TO THIS WONDERFUL CONTRAPTION NOT FAR FROM THE KITCHEN.

Glen: IT'S A UNIQUE MACHINE MADE BY A COMPANY CALLED F.B.

PEASE OUT OF NEW YORK.

LITERALLY, WE'RE WORKING WITH ANTIQUE MACHINES.

YOU PLACE THE APPLE.

THE SPINDLE COMES UP, INJECTS ITSELF INTO THE APPLE, AND THEN IT ROTATES AROUND A BLADE.

THE SPINDLE COMES OUT.

THE APPLE FALLS DOWN ONTO A LEVER THAT PUSHES IT DOWN A CHUTE, THAT FALLS INTO THE BOX.

Sebak: THEN THE APPLES ARE SLICED AND SPICED AND GET MOUNDED INTO SIZABLE PIES BY THE TEAM OF BAKERS HERE.

Glen: AND WE COULDN'T DO WITHOUT THEM.

THEY KNOW HOW TO MAKE THE PIE JUST RIGHT.

LOOKS PERFECT.

THE LOOK AND THE FEEL AND THE TASTE BECOMES PART OF THEIR PRODUCT.

THERE YOU GO, CELLA.

SYLVIA, HERE WE GO.

ES COMIDA.

ADAN, YOU NEED TO TRY IT TOO.

THIS IS PROBABLY AS CLOSE TO GRANDMA'S PIES AS THEY COME.

NOT TOO SWEET, NOT TOO TART.

OH, LOOK AT THAT.

APPLE PIE THERE.

LOOK AT THAT BABY RIGHT THERE.

CAN TASTE THE APPLE.

LOTS OF CINNAMON.

NOT TOO MUCH NUTMEG.

THAT... FEEL -- IT IS STILL WARM.

IT'S STILL WARM!

HOW CAN YOU BEAT THAT?

COBBLER.

COBBLER, IT IS!

I WON OVER THE CHERRY!

Glen: WE SELL A LOT OF PIES, ALMOST 80,000 TO 100,000 PIES A YEAR.

THE BEST.

THE BEST PIES.

THERE'S NOTHING MORE AMERICAN THAN AN APPLE PIE.

EVERYBODY LOVES PIE.

AND SO WE'RE HAPPY THAT WE'RE BEING ABLE TO BE SUCCESSFUL RAISING THE FRUIT AND PUTTING IT IN THE PIES, AND I THINK NOW WE HAVE THE PERFECT APPLE PIE.

IT'S A BEAUTY.

Sebak: LOOKING FOR BEAUTIFUL PIES MAY LEAD YOU TO A CITY LIKE PORTLAND, MAINE, WHERE, BEFORE YOU HEAD FOR THE DOCKS, YOU MAY WANT TO CHECK OUT THE SMALL BAKERY CALLED TWO FAT CATS.

LITTLE HARD TO FIND BECAUSE IT'S SET BACK, BUT WE FOUND IT.

Bethany: WE COME UP TO PORTLAND TO GO OUT TO PEAKS ISLAND, AND WE ALWAYS PARK IN THIS AREA SO WE CAN GO TO TWO FAT CATS... TWO FAT CATS.

...ON OUR WAY TO THE FERRY.

EVERYBODY WHO LIVES HERE KNOWS THIS PLACE.

THEIR PIES ARE WONDERFUL.

TWO FAT CATS BAKERY.

STACY SPEAKING.

Sebak: THE PLACE IS OWNED AND RUN BY STACY BEGIN, WHO BOUGHT THE BUSINESS AND ITS NAME.

Stacy: IT'S CALLED TWO FAT CATS BECAUSE WHEN THE BAKERY WAS STARTED, THE UPSTAIRS WAS ACTUALLY AN APARTMENT, AND ONE OF THE OWNERS LIVED UP THERE WITH HER TWO FAT CATS, LILY AND JACKIE, AND THE CATS -- YOU COULD SEE THE CATS PEEKING OUT OF THE WINDOWS UPSTAIRS.

WE'RE A REALLY SMALL BAKERY, BUT WE LIKE TO STEAL A LINE FROM SHAKESPEARE AND SAY WE'RE SMALL BUT FIERCE.

THIS IS OUR BAKE AREA.

EVERYTHING GOES ON HERE.

WE'RE MAKING PIES PRETTY MUCH SEVEN DAYS A WEEK.

YES.

WE MAKE A LOT OF PIES, YEAH.

Sebak: JAMES FITZ IS PART OF THE PIE TEAM.

James: THERE ARE OTHER BAKERIES I'VE WORKED IN IN TOWN WHERE I'M KIND OF IN THE BACK, YOU KNOW, THE BACKGROUND, AND PEOPLE DON'T GET TO SEE WHAT I'M DOING, BUT HERE, CUSTOMERS COME IN, CUSTOMERS GO, AND I GET TO SEE THEM ENJOY WHAT I'VE MADE, AND IT'S REALLY, REALLY COOL, REALLY GRATIFYING.

Sebak: SO PEOPLE PRODUCE TRADITIONAL PIES HERE MOST OF THE DAY, BUT TWO FAT CATS ALSO HAS A REPUTATION FOR THE THING KNOWN AS A "WHOOPIE PIE."

James: PEOPLE COME FROM ALL OVER TO TRY OUR WHOOPIE PIES.

IT'S REALLY CRAZY.

Stacy: IT'S MORE LIKE A CAKE, BUT IT'S THE SNACK FOOD OF MAINE.

MAINERS LOVE THEIR WHOOPIE PIES.

Woman: PUMPKIN WHOOPIE PIES ARE MY FAVORITE, AND I HAVE TRIED PUMPKIN WHOOPIE PIES FROM ALL DIFFERENT PLACES AROUND, AND THEY HAVE THE BEST PUMPKIN WHOOPIE PIES IN MAINE OR IN NEW HAMPSHIRE OR ANYWHERE THAT I'VE HAD A WHOOPIE PIE.

Stacy: WE ALWAYS HAVE OUR CHOCOLATE WHOOPIE PIES AVAILABLE, AND THEN IN THE FALL THROUGH THE WINTER, WE DO OUR PUMPKIN, SO IT'S A PUMPKIN CAKE, REALLY REALLY MOIST, AND THEN THE FILLING IS A MAPLE-MARSHMALLOW BUTTERCREAM.

IT'S VERY GOOD.

Sebak: WELL, IT'S CALLED A PIE.

YOU MIGHT CONSIDER IT JUST ONE OF THE MANY KINDS THEY MAKE HERE.

Stacy: THE MOST POPULAR IS THE WILD MAINE BLUEBERRY.

James: JUST A HALF A CUP OF LEMON JUICE.

BLUEBERRIES HERE.

WE MIX THAT UP.

MAINE BLUEBERRIES ARE VERY DIFFERENT THAN CULTIVATED BLUEBERRIES.

MAINERS LOVE THEM, AND PEOPLE WHO COME TO MAINE TO VISIT HAVE HEARD OF THE WILD MAINE BLUEBERRIES, AND SO THEY USUALLY WANT TO TRY SOMETHING THAT HAS MAINE BLUEBERRIES IN IT.

ALL RIGHT.

THAT LOOKS ABOUT THE RIGHT COLOR.

AND THEN WE'RE JUST GONNA LET THAT SIT.

Stacy: MAINE BLUEBERRY PIE IS THE BEST.

THIS IS A BLACK & BLUE.

AND I LIKE IT BECAUSE IT'S AN UNUSUAL COMBINATION OF BLACKBERRIES, BLUEBERRIES, AND GINGER.

A LITTLE BIT OF GINGER CHANGES EVERYTHING.

AND THE LATTICE CRUST, IT JUST LOOKS BEAUTIFUL.

IT MAKES YOU LOOK LIKE YOU WANT A SLICE, AND THEY DO SUCH A GREAT JOB WITH OUR CRIMPING.

YOU KNOW, IT LOOKS HOMEMADE BUT BETTER THAN HOMEMADE.

Sebak: AS THE DAY TURNS TO NIGHT, SARA LOURA JOINS THE PIE TEAM.

SHE AND JAMES GET THE PIES READY FOR A LATE NIGHT BAKE.

SO ONCE WE GET ALL THE PIES READY TO GO IN THE OVEN, WE'LL MILK AND SUGAR THEM, AND PUT THEM IN THE OVEN FOR ABOUT 45 MINUTES.

IT'S USUALLY A LITTLE LONGER.

Stacy: WE USE A MILK COATING AND WE USE A GRANULATED SUGAR ON TOP.

YEP, MILK.

THIS IS LIKE THE BEST PART.

PEOPLE ALSO REALLY LIKE A LOT OF SUGAR.

SO, THAT'S ONE THING THAT WE GET ASKED A LOT, "CAN I HAVE THAT ONE WITH THE SUGAR ON IT?"

IT'S ALWAYS WONDERFUL WHEN PEOPLE COME IN, AND WE CAN MAKE THEIR DAY WITH SOMETHING THAT TASTES REALLY GOOD AND, YOU KNOW, LIFTS THEIR SPIRITS, SO, I MEAN, IT'S A GREAT JOB.

YEAH, IT'S A WHOLE TEAM EFFORT.

IT ALL COMES TOGETHER PRETTY WELL.

Sebak: TEAM EFFORT IS A GOOD THING, BUT A WELL-SEASONED STAR IS ALSO AN ADVANTAGE.

IN THE BOROUGH OF MILLVALE, PENNSYLVANIA, JUST OUTSIDE PITTSBURGH, EARLY MOST MORNINGS, YOU MAY SEE FRANK RUZOMBERKA ARRIVING AT WORK.

Frank: I DON'T EVEN CALL IT WORK.

I CAN'T WAIT TO GET HERE.

I DON'T KNOW IF THAT'S WHAT YOU CALL WORK OR NOT.

BUT I CAN'T WAIT TO GET HERE EVERY DAY.

AND THAT'S THE WAY IT'S BEEN ALL MY LIFE.

I BAKE PIES.

I MAKE ALL THE DESSERTS, WHATEVER THEY NEED.

I'M 80.

AND I GET HERE AT 6:30 EVERY DAY.

THE NAME OF THE PLACE -- GRANT BAR.

Sebak: FRANK'S FAMILY HAD THIS RESTAURANT AND BAR FOR MANY YEARS.

NOW IT'S OWNED BY A GROUP OF EMPLOYEES.

MY MUM AND DAD STARTED THIS PLACE IN 1933.

MY FATHER AND MOTHER CAME FROM CZECHOSLOVAKIA IN THE LATE '20s.

MY FAMILY HAD 7 CHILDREN, AND EVERYBODY WORKED.

I WAS WORKING WHEN I WAS 6.

ME AND MY BROTHERS RAN THE BUSINESS FOR A LONG TIME, AND WE WERE ALWAYS MISSING DESSERT, SO I STARTED MAKING APPLE PIES.

Jason: WHEN WE GOT HERE, YOU KNOW, I'M LOOKING ON THE MENU, AND IT SAYS "WORLD FAMOUS PIES," SO HOW CAN YOU NOT GET A PIE?

[ LAUGHS ] A PLACE THAT SAYS "WORLD FAMOUS."

Jim: THIS IS AN INSTITUTION IN THE BOROUGH OF MILLVALE.

IT'S AN INSTITUTION FOR MANY REASONS, ONE OF THEM BEING THESE PIES.

I GET PIE EVERY TIME I'M HERE.

BUT THE COCONUT PIE -- LAST TIME WE MISSED IT -- WE WAITED TILL WE WERE FINISHED TO ORDER, AND THEY WERE OUT.

SO WE ORDERED DESSERT FIRST.

WE KNOW FRANK, AND FRANK MAKES THEM FRESH EVERY DAY.

Frank: IT'S A GOOD, BASIC TRADITIONAL CRUST THAT I LIKE.

I DON'T WANT TO CHANGE IT -- LARD, FLOUR, SALT, WATER.

BUT I MAKE CREAM PIES, SO I NEED A CRUST THAT STAYS CRUNCHY BECAUSE IT MIGHT SIT FOR 3, 4 HOURS.

AND WITH MY RECIPE, I NEED A THIN PIE CRUST, AND I NEED IT COOKED WELL.

I'VE JUST BEEN DOING IT FOR SO LONG, I JUST -- SOMETIMES I DON'T EVEN KNOW WHAT I'M DOING.

I JUST DO IT, YOU KNOW.

THOUSANDS.

I DON'T KNOW WHY I NEVER THINK TO GET A CREAM PIE.

I ALWAYS GET SOMETHING WITH...APPLE.

NORMALLY.

I'VE NEVER TASTED A PIE BETTER THAN THAT.

REALLY, I'M SERIOUS.

I APPRECIATE THAT.

I REALLY -- THAT'S MY FAVORITE PIE.

I LOVE THE TEXTURE OF THIS COCONUT CREAM PIE.

IT'S JUST LIKE, THE FLAVOR IS PERFECT.

WE'RE GONNA MAKE SIX COCONUTS THEN.

I USE 3 CUPS OF MILK A PIE.

3/4 CUP OF SUGAR.

AND THEN I PUT ARROWROOT IN INSTEAD OF FLOUR.

THERE'S NO TASTE, SO I USE ARROWROOT TO THICKEN IT.

NO COCONUT FLAVOR.

NONE AT ALL.

I BAKE MY OWN COCONUT...

RAW COCONUT.

AND THAT'S THE BIGGEST JOB.

THAT TAKES 3 HOURS TO DO A COUPLE GALLONS.

BUT I DO THAT AHEAD OF TIME SO IT'S ALL TOASTED.

SO I JUST ADD THAT TOASTED COCONUT TO IT.

I PUT A CUPFUL IN EVERY PIE, PLUS THE STUFF ON TOP.

AND IT ONLY LASTS ONE DAY.

THE NEXT DAY, IF THERE'S ANY LEFT, I THROW IT OUT.

I MAKE ANOTHER ONE.

SO IT'S NO ARTIFICIAL STUFF IN IT.

IT'S JUST EVERYTHING ABOUT IT.

THE CRUST IS GOOD, THE FILLING'S GOOD.

IT'S GOT A LOT OF COCONUT.

IT'S GOT A LOT OF TASTE.

IT'S A GOOD PIECE OF PIE.

Jim: AND THE GRANT BAR IS DEFINITELY IS A PARADIGM OF WHAT MAKES THIS AREA SO STRONG AND WHAT MAKES THIS AREA SO SPECIAL AND WHAT MAKES US ALL WANT TO COME BACK HERE AND HAVE A SLICE OF PIE.

THAT'S REALLY GOOD.

YEAH.

I SHOULD HAVE GOT THAT.

[ BOTH LAUGH ] Sebak: SOMETIMES PICKING THE RIGHT KIND OF PIE CAN BE UPLIFTING.

AND IN CENTRAL VIRGINIA, NEAR THE TOWN OF ELON, THERE'S A SMALL CAF\ AND PIE SHOP CALLED WOODRUFF'S STORE THAT MAY SEEM A BIT LIKE HEAVEN.

EARLY IN THE MORNING, ANGELA WOODRUFF SCOTT AND HER MOTHER, MARY FANNIE WOODRUFF, GET THE DAY STARTED.

Annie: YOU NEED TO EAT YOUR BREAKFAST, MOM.

WELL, I'M DRINKING MY COFFEE.

OKAY.

WHAT TYPE OF PIE ARE YOU MAKING NOW?

LEMON MERINGUE.

Sebak: THE WOODRUFF FAMILY HAS BEEN AT THIS SPOT FOR YEARS.

Annie: IN 1951, MY MOTHER MARY AND MY FATHER OPENED THIS AS A GAS STATION AND A GROCERY STORE.

AND THEY RAN THIS PLACE FOR A LITTLE OVER 30 YEARS.

Mary: I BEEN HERE ALL MY LIFE.

I WAS MARRIED TO MY HUSBAND 63 YEARS WHEN HE PASSED AWAY.

SO THAT MAKES ME PRETTY OLD, DOESN'T IT?

Annie: SO, WE HAD A FAMILY REUNION EARLY IN THE '90s, AND WE RESEARCHED A LOT OF THE FAMILY HISTORY AND FOUND OUT A LOT ABOUT OUR FAMILY ON THIS CORNER SINCE THE LATTER PART OF THE 1800s.

SO I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE A GREAT THING IF WE OPENED IT BACK UP.

Mary: SHE MADE IT A PIE SHOP.

I HAD GROCERIES AND A FILLING STATION.

Annie: GOD JUST GAVE ME THIS VISION THAT I WAS SUPPOSED TO OPEN THIS AND CARRY ON MY FAMILY'S TRADITION.

AND I HAD SWEET POTATO PIES EVERY FRIDAY AND SATURDAY.

SWEET POTATOES ONLY.

I NEVER DID BAKE ANYTHING BUT SWEET POTATO PIE.

Annie: I OPENED IT IN '98.

I KNEW THAT PEOPLE LOVED PIE, SO I JUST STARTED MAKING PIE, AND HERE WE ARE.

THE MENU IS VERY SIMPLE.

YOU GET A NICE LUNCH AND THEN YOU GET A PIECE OF PIE.

AND YOU GO HOME FEELING GOOD ABOUT YOURSELF.

Annie: PEOPLE REALLY FEEL LOVED WHEN THEY'RE EATING PIE.

I HEAR IT ALL THE TIME.

WE JUST HAVE A GOOD TIME TALKING AND JOKING, AND PEOPLE, THEY LOVE TO SIT WITH MAMA 'CAUSE SHE LOVES TO TALK.

Steven: I CAME IN AND SAT DOWN THE FIRST DAY, I DIDN'T KNOW ANY OF THESE FOLKS.

BUT I THINK I HAD A SANDWICH, AND THEN MY FIRST SLICE OF PIE AND MAYBE ONE OR TWO MORE BEFORE I GOT OUT THE DOOR.

Annie: FOR A LONG TIME, IT WAS JUST ME AND MAMA.

THEN MY SISTERS RETIRED, AND THEY CAME AND STARTED HELPING.

Sebak: ANGIE'S OLDER SISTERS ARE TWINS -- DARNELLE AND DARNETTE.

AND DARNETTE LEARNED TO MAKE FRIED PIES FROM THEIR MOTHER.

SHE WOULDN'T LET ME VARY FROM HER OLD RECIPE NO KIND OF WAY.

I HAD TO DO IT EXACTLY RIGHT.

Mary: THEY'RE GOOD.

AND THEY SELL FAST.

THAT'S OUR BEST SELLER -- THE FRIED PIE.

Darnette: IT'S JUST SO CRISPY, CRUNCHY, AND DELICIOUS, AND THEN THE SOFT FILLING -- OH, MY GOODNESS.

I PROBABLY EAT MORE SLICES THAN I DO THE FRIED PIES, BUT I LOVE THE FACT THAT I CAN JUST TAKE A FRIED PIE WITH ME.

Darnette: PIES ARE WARM AND SWEET, AND IF YOU LIKE WHAT YOU'RE DOING, THEN IT WILL HAVE -- JUST THE LOVE WILL JUST BE THERE.

I TELL PEOPLE ALL THE TIME, IT'S NOT ABOUT THE PIE SO MUCH.

PEOPLE ENJOY IT.

IT'S FUN.

WE MAKE IT FUN.

AND SOMETIMES WE SING.

EVERY DAY.

EVERY DAY YOU'LL HEAR SOMEONE SINGING SOMETHING.

IT'S THE WHOLE ATMOSPHERE, I THINK.

♪ SOME HA-- HAPPY DAY♪ All: ♪ I'LL SEARCH HEAVEN FOR YOU♪ ♪ FIRST I SHALL GREET MY SAVIOR♪ ♪ MY SAVIOR AND MY KING♪ ♪ THE ONE WHO BROUGHT ME SAFE♪ ♪ THROUGH DANGERS THAT ARE SEEN AND UNSEEN♪ ♪ THEN I'LL KNEEL AT JESUS' FEET♪ ♪ I'LL PRAISE, OH, PRAISE HIS HOLY NAME♪ ♪ I'LL SEARCH HEAVEN FOR YOU♪ YOU'D JUST BE SURPRISED AT THE PEOPLE'S FACES WHEN THEY WALK IN HERE.

I MEAN, THEY'RE... COME ON IN.

...IT'S REALLY SPECIAL.

WHEN THEY WALK IN, THERE'S A SMILE, AND THEY COME RIGHT TO MAMA AND THEY SIT DOWN.

AND IT'S REALLY AMAZING, HOW PEOPLE FEEL WHEN THEY GET THAT FEELING OF BEING AT HOME, OR JUST BEING LOVED, I THINK.

THE PIES ARE WHAT THEY SELL.

THE LOVE IS WHAT THEY GIVE AWAY.

♪ I'LL SEARCH THE FOUR CORNERS OF HEAVEN FOR YOU♪ ♪ WILL YOU BE LOOKING FOR ME?♪ YOU GONNA BE LOOKING FOR ME?

IF YOU GOT THE PIE IN YOUR HAND, I'LL BE LOOKING FOR YOU.

[ LAUGHS ] Sebak: OH, THE SEARCH FOR GOOD PIE MAY NEVER END.

FOR SOME, IT'S 24/7.

AND THAT MAY MEAN YOU SHOULD HEAD FOR UNDERHILL, VERMONT.

THERE, PAULA AND JAMIE EISENBERG HAVE A SHOP CALLED POORHOUSE PIES IN THEIR LITTLE YELLOW HOUSE.

WE ARE A VERY SMALL LOCAL BAKERY.

WE DO PIES AND DONUTS FOR WHOLESALE AND RETAIL.

WE NEEDED TO MAKE SOME MONEY.

JAMIE LOST HER JOB.

IT WAS THE SPRING OF 2009, RIGHT AROUND WHEN THE RECESSION HIT.

I LOST A PRETTY GOOD JOB, AND PAULA AND I WERE SITTING AT THE KITCHEN TABLE, KIND OF TONGUE-IN-CHEEK, JOKING ABOUT WINDING UP IN THE POORHOUSE, SORT OF NOT JOKING AND JOKING AT THE SAME TIME.

I GUESS WE JUST SAID, "WHAT'S GONNA MAKE US SOME MONEY?"

AND WE DECIDED ON PIE.

WE NEEDED SOMETHING TO KEEP US OUT OF THE POORHOUSE, AND WE SAID POORHOUSE PIES.

EXACTLY.

WE STARTED IN OUR PRIVATE KITCHEN, AND BEFORE WE KNEW IT, WE WERE TOTALLY OUT OF SPACE, SO WE SAID, "WELL, LET'S DITCH THE LIVING ROOM."

WE DRAGGED ALL THE FURNITURE OUT OF THERE AND STARTED PUTTING IN SOME EQUIPMENT, AND THAT BECAME OUR LITTLE BAKESHOP RIGHT THERE.

THESE ARE THE DIFFERENT MARKINGS.

YOU NEED TO HAVE A DIFFERENT MARKING FOR EVERY PIE SO YOU CAN TELL WHAT IT IS AFTER IT'S BAKED.

THIS IS BLUEBERRY'S MARK.

IT'S INTERESTING COMING UP WITH A DIFFERENT SHAPE FOR EVERY SINGLE KIND OF PIE WE MAKE.

[ CHUCKLES ] THIS IS A RASPBERRY.

HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH RASPBERRIES, BUT IT LOOKS NICE.

I USE SHORTENING IN MY CRUST BECAUSE I WANT IT TO BE FLAKY.

I MAKE THE DOUGH -- THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT DOUGHS WE USE.

MINE IS AN EGG-BASED SUCRE DOUGH.

IT'S GOT SUGAR IN IT.

I USE THOSE FOR THE BOTTOM CRUSTS FOR THE SHELLS FOR THE CREAM PIES.

I MEAN, I MAKE THE PIES THAT YOUR GRANDMOTHER FROM VERMONT WOULD RECOGNIZE.

JAMIE MAKES THE PIES THAT YOUR GRANDMOTHER FROM NEW JERSEY WOULD PROBABLY REALLY LIKE.

[ LAUGHS ] YOU NAME IT, WE'LL...

I'LL WANT TO MIX IT UP, DO THE CRAZY COMBOS, AND SO WE DO ALL STYLES.

I MAKE THE FILLINGS ALL SEPARATE, WHATEVER I'M GONNA NEED FOR THE WEEK.

I MAKE A BIG PILE OF DOUGH, AND THEN ON PIE DAY, IT'S JUST A MATTER OF JUST PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER AND BAKING IT.

THIS IS EGG WASH.

THIS IS GONNA MAKE THEM NICE AND GOLDEN, AND IT'LL ALSO HELP THE SUGAR STICK ON THE TOP.

I CAN FIT 12 IF I ARRANGE THEM WELL.

Sebak: NOW, POORHOUSE PIES HAS A FEW WHOLESALE ACCOUNTS, BUT THEY ALSO SELL THEIR WARES IN A SMALL STRUCTURE IN THE YARD BESIDE THEIR HOUSE.

THE SHED WAS AN OLD GARDEN SHED WE HAD, JUST KIND OF KICKING AROUND.

I'M PRETTY SURE IT WAS JAMIE WHO SAID, YOU KNOW, "WHY DON'T WE JUST PUT PIE IN THERE AND HAVE PEOPLE COME AND BUY IT?

IT'S ALL SELF-SERVICE.

THERE'S A BANK IN THERE.

IT'S A VERY OLD TRADITION, THE FARM-STAND TRADITION.

YOU JUST -- HONOR SYSTEM.

THE BANK IS AN OLD MAILBOX, YEAH.

[ LAUGHS ] WE KEEP AN EYE ON THINGS WHEN WE'RE HOME, AND WHEN WE SEE A LOT OF TRAFFIC, WE BRING A LOT MORE PIES OUT.

IT'S PRETTY MUCH 24/7 BUSINESS.

PEOPLE, I THINK THEY FEEL A CONNECTION, YOU KNOW.

THIS IS THEIR PIE HOUSE AND THEY CAN LEAVE A NOTE AND THEY CAN SAY, "THIS IS MY LITTLE SPOT NOW."

WE DROVE UP, AND YOU SEE "PIE," AND YOU SEE A SIGN, Keith: AND WE WALK UP, AND IT SAYS SELF-SERVICE.

AND IT SAYS OPEN SO MANY DAYS, AND IT HAS A LIST OF ALL THE PIES.

WE PUT PIE OUT THERE AND WE SAID, "PAY WHAT YOU WANT."

AND PEOPLE DID.

KEY LIME!

[ LAUGHS ] THAT'S YOUR FAVORITE!

YEP.

OH, MAN.

I WAS DRIVING THAT WAY, AND I SAW A SIGN FOR PIES, AND SO I THOUGHT, "WELL, THAT'S PRETTY COOL," YOU KNOW, BECAUSE IT SOUNDED LIKE IT WAS GOING TO BE AWFULLY HOMEMADE.

Jamie: PEOPLE SHOP FOR PIE.

THEY LEAVE MONEY IN THE BANK.

THEY OFTEN LEAVE US A NOTE.

THE WHOLE PLACE IS PLASTERED WITH NOTES FROM PEOPLE.

I LOVE THE NOTES.

MY NEW FAVORITE ONE -- WELL, OUR VERY FAVORITE ONE, OF COURSE, IS "I LOVE YOU, PIE LADY" -- AND I WOULD LOVE TO KNOW WHO LEFT THAT NOTE.

AND WE LOVE IT WHEN THEY COME FROM FAR AWAY AND THEY SAY, "OH, I DROVE ALL THE WAY FROM --" YOU KNOW -- "MONTANA!"

BUT MY NEW FAVORITE IS "PIES SAVED MY LIFE!"

THAT'S A GOOD ONE.

Keith: AND YOU HAVE THAT APPRECIATION -- SOMEONE HAS MADE SOMETHING, AND IT CAN MAKE IT BETTER.

Paula: IT'S SOMETHING VERY SPECIAL FOR PEOPLE, SOMETHING THAT WE LIKE TO THINK THAT PEOPLE ARE LEAVING HERE, GOING BACK TO WHEREVER AND SAYING, "OH, REMEMBER THAT PIE SHED WE WENT TO IN VERMONT?

YOU KNOW, WASN'T THAT AWESOME?"

WE'RE CONSTANTLY AMAZED AT HOW WELL WE DO.

Sebak: NO QUESTION -- PIE PLACES CAN BE MEMORABLE FOR WONDERFUL REASONS.

CONSIDER THIS LITTLE CORNER PIE SHOP AND CAF\ -- WHERE EVEN BEFORE IT OPENS -- EVEN BEFORE DAWN -- BAKERS HERE ARE BUSY PRODUCING PIES.

Alexzandra: THIS IS A LA MODE PIES.

WE'RE IN SEATTLE ON PHINNEY AVENUE, RIGHT ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE WOODLAND PARK ZOO.

Sebak: ALEXZANDRA WEBER IS THE MANAGER HERE.

Alexzandra: IT'S BEAUTIFUL.

I LOVE WATCHING THE SUNRISE IN THE MORNING.

IT'S A GREAT LOCATION -- PEOPLE COME AFTER THE ZOO OR BEFORE THE ZOO.

WE GET A LOT OF PEOPLE COMING IN AROUND 8:00 P.M. FOR AFTER-DINNER PIE.

Chris: THE CAF\ OPENS AT 8:00 A.M. AND CLOSES AT 9:00 P.M. EVERY SINGLE DAY.

Sebak: THAT'S CHRIS PORTER, SEATTLE'S PIE GUY.

HE FOUNDED THIS PLACE IN 2011.

IT STARTED AS LIKE 10 PIES OUT OF MY OWN KITCHEN AND HAS NOW GROWN TO, YOU KNOW, IT'S... WE ALMOST SELL ABOUT A MILLION DOLLARS WORTH OF PIE EVERY YEAR, SO IT'S JUST EXPONENTIALLY GROWN.

AND I THINK PART OF THE REASON WHY IT HAS GROWN IS I THINK PEOPLE CAN ACTUALLY TASTE THE PASSION THAT GOES INTO THE PIE.

I MEAN, WE'RE CRAZY ABOUT MAKING SURE THAT OUR PIES ARE FANTASTIC.

Alexzandra: THIS IS AMARA.

SHE'S OUR LEAD BAKER.

SHE'S BEEN HERE FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS NOW.

AND THIS IS SAM.

SAM STARTED ON PI DAY LAST YEAR, SO HE'S BEEN HERE FOR ALMOST A YEAR.

I'M MAKING BLUE HAWAIIAN FILLING FOR OUR BLUE HAWAIIAN PIE, WHICH IS OUR SIGNATURE PIE.

IT WAS THE FIRST PIE I EVER CREATED, I WOULD SAY THE DAY THAT I MADE THE DECISION TO OPEN THE PIE SHOP.

Alexzandra: IT'S REALLY GOOD.

IT'S ONE OF THOSE PIES THAT PEOPLE HAVE A LOT OF QUESTIONS ABOUT.

BUT THEN WHEN THEY TRY IT, THEY CAN'T HELP BUT LOVE IT.

IT'S MY HUSBAND'S FAVORITE PIE.

Chris: I KIND OF HAD TO COME TOGETHER AND I KIND OF PICKED OUT ALL THESE DIFFERENT PRODUCTS LIKE BLUEBERRIES AND CRUSHED PINEAPPLE AND TOASTED COCONUT, EVERYTHING THAT I LOVED ABOUT PIE.

Kurt: YOU KNOW, MY FAVORITE HERE IS THEIR BLUE HAWAIIAN.

I JUST THOUGHT THAT WAS A REALLY, REALLY INTERESTING CONCEPT.

Alexzandra: IT'S REALLY NICE, AND IT'S REFRESHING 'CAUSE YOU GET THAT PINEAPPLE AND THE BLUEBERRIES, AND THEY YOU GET THE WARMNESS OF THE COCONUT AND THE VANILLA.

AND IT'S STILL WARM.

IT'S WONDERFUL.

Chris: WE'VE HAD SOME CUSTOMERS THAT HAVE LITERALLY COME IN HERE EVERY SINGLE DAY SINCE THE VERY BEGINNING.

IT HAS BECOME MY CAFE, MY SECRET LITTLE PLACE.

Sebak: SO A LA MODE HAS FREQUENT PIE-BUYER CARDS, TOO.

BUT 10 SLICES, GET 1 FREE.

I'M ON MY SECOND CARD NOW, SO...

I'M NOT REAL GOOD AT THOSE CARD-THINGS.

I JUST SORT OF DO WHAT I DO, SO...

I'M ON CARD NUMBER 75, WHICH SAYS 700 -- ACTUALLY, THIS IS 752.

Sebak: AND DON'T FORGET -- THIS SHOP IS CALLED A LA MODE.

ICE CREAM ON TOP IS DEFINITELY AN OPTION.

[ LAUGHING ] A BIG LUMP OF ICE CREAM ON PRETTY MUCH ANY DESSERT WILL HELP IT.

Chris: ALL PIE IS BETTER WITH ICE CREAM.

THERE'S NOTHING BETTER THAN THE OOZE THAT COMES OUT OF A SLICE AND MIXING THAT KIND OF GRAVY AND THAT BEAUTIFUL JUICE WITH THE ICE CREAM.

I MEAN, IT'S MAGICAL.

I REALLY THINK THAT THE CRUST IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING.

AND IT'S REALLY DIFFICULT.

ONE OF THE REASONS THEY DO SUCH A NICE JOB HERE IS BECAUSE I THINK HE USES A LITTLE BIT OF LARD.

Alexzandra: WE USE BUTTER AND LARD.

AND FLOUR, A LITTLE BIT OF SUGAR, AND SALT.

AND THAT'S IT.

Chris: WELL, WE MAKE ALL OF OUR CRUSTS IN SMALL BATCHES.

JUST LIKE GRANDMA, WE HAVE LOTS OF BUTTER BITS IN OUR CRUST.

I WOULD SAY THAT IS THE -- THAT IS THE SECRET TO ANY GOOD PIE CRUST IS BUTTER BITS.

Sam: I DON'T KNOW IF YOU CAN SEE, BUT YOU CAN SEE THE LITTLE -- LITTLE BITS WE GOT GOING ON IN HERE.

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN IT'S BAKING IS ALL THAT BUTTER MELTS INTO THE PIE, AND THE POCKET THAT'S LEFT OVER IS THE FLAKE.

Alexzandra: IT'S HALF-BUTTER, HALF-LARD, SO YOU GET THE FLAKINESS OF THE LARD, BUT YOU GET THE FLAVOR OF THE BUTTER.

SO IT'S THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS.

WE SELL IT BY THE SLICE.

WE SELL WHOLE PIES.

WE SELL PETITE PIES, AS WELL.

Chris: I NEVER GET TIRED OF MAKING PIE.

Alexzandra: I DON'T KNOW A SINGLE PERSON WHO DOESN'T HAVE SOME SORT OF PIE EXPERIENCE.

AND BEING ABLE TO COME IN AND BUY A PIE THAT'S AS GOOD AS YOU MIGHT REMEMBER IT TO BE IS A REALLY RARE THING.

Chris: YOU KNOW, I DON'T KNOW WHAT THE KEY TO SUCCESS IS.

I HAVE TO ADMIT THE LONGER I'M IN BUSINESS, I DON'T EVEN REALLY KNOW WHAT "SUCCESS" IS.

BUT I KNOW THAT I LOVE IT.

AND I KNOW THAT I AM EXTREMELY PROUD OF WHAT WE DO.

AND I LOVE MY EMPLOYEES AND I LOVE THE PEOPLE THAT COME IN HERE, AND IT SEEMS TO BE THAT A LA MODE IS THIS INSTITUTION THAT KEEPS GETTING MORE AND MORE POPULAR, AND I JUST -- I CAN'T GET ENOUGH.

Sebak: LOVE FOR THE PIE BUSINESS MAY BE AN OLD TRADITION.

MOST FOOD HISTORIANS SAY THAT PIES ORIGINATED IN ENGLAND, OFTEN MEAT PIES, YET MANY OF US IN THE U.S.

THINK PIES ARE ESSENTIALLY ALL-AMERICAN.

AND IT'S A PATRIOTIC DUTY TO STOP WHEN YOU SEE A PIE STAND LIKE THIS ONE ON ROUTE 302 IN BARTLETT, NEW HAMPSHIRE.

MARILYN COOK CALLS HERSELF THE PIE LADY.

Marilyn: YEAH, LOTS OF PEOPLE STOP.

I'VE GOT A REALLY GOOD FOLLOWING.

I'VE GOT A GOOD LOCAL FOLLOWING, AND THEN I'VE GOT SO MANY TOURISTS THAT COME BACK EVERY SINGLE YEAR, TWO OR THREE TIMES A YEAR.

Sebak: MARILYN BAKES HER PIES IN HER HOME NEARBY WHILE HER HUSBAND OFTEN MANS THE STAND.

THIS IS MY GRANDMOTHER'S RECIPE, AND YOU HAVE TO USE LARD.

OKAY?

BECAUSE BACK THEN THEY DIDN'T HAVE REFRIGERATION, SO A LARD THING LIKE THIS COULD LAST 5 OR 6 DAYS WITHOUT REFRIGERATION.

YOU KNOW, PIES USED TO BE MADE FOR BREAKFAST.

PIES ARE A BREAKFAST STAPLE.

THAT'S WHAT THEY CAME OVER FROM ENGLAND AND IRELAND AS, BUT ONCE WE GOT THEM OVER HERE, THEY BECAME A DESSERT.

HI, I WANTED SOME APPLES.

WHAT KIND DO YOU WANT?

WE HAVE McINTOSH AND MACOUN.

MACS PLEASE, YEAH.

I GET THE APPLES FROM A PLACE CALLED FIVE FIELDS IN BRIDGTON, MAINE.

LIKE, THIS IS A CORTLAND, AND THIS IS A McINTOSH, AND THERE'S NOT A WHOLE LOT OF DIFFERENCE IN THEM.

YOU CAN'T SEE THE DIFFERENCE.

BUT WHEN YOU MIX THE TWO TOGETHER, IT'S HEAVEN.

CHOOSE WHICHEVER ONE YOU WANT.

OH, I MIGHT HAVE TO BUY A PIE, THOUGH, TOO.

WHAT I DO WITH MINE -- AND I SHOULDN'T TELL YOU, BUT I WILL -- I COAT THE TOP OF MINE WITH EVAPORATED MILK.

OKAY, THAT'S WHAT MAKES THEM BROWN UP NICELY.

AND THEN YOU TAKE A COARSE SUGAR, AND YOU SPRINKLE THE SUGAR ALL OVER THE TOP OF THE PIE.

SEE HOW THE SUGAR GLISTENS?

AND IT'S A REALLY NICE PIE.

AND IT'S A HEAVY PIE.

THAT'S A 5-POUND PIE.

I HAVE ONE OF THE FRENCH CANADIAN MADE-WITH-MOLASSES PUMPKIN PIES, AND THEN THESE ARE THE APPLE PIES, SO...

I'LL GO FOR AN APPLE.

OKAY.

WHICHEVER ONE SPEAKS YOUR NAME.

THAT ONE'S GOT MY NAME ON IT RIGHT HERE.

APPLES ARE MY SPECIALTY.

THEY ARE.

PRETTY COOL.

IT'S NICE TO BE FAMOUS FOR SOMETHING.

Sebak: YEAH, IT IS.

AND IF YOU FIND YOURSELF IN INDIANA, THE HOOSIER STATE, YOU MAY FIND YOURSELF LOOKING FOR THE FAMOUS OFFICIAL STATE PIE -- THE SUGAR CREAM PIE.

IN HUNTINGTON, INDIANA, MASON DRABENSTOT KNOWS HOW TO PUT TOGETHER THIS REGIONAL FAVORITE.

Mason: FOR A TWO-PIE RECIPE, WE USE 4 CUPS OF WHIPPING CREAM, AND THEN I THROW IN A CUP EACH OF SUGAR, BROWN SUGAR, AND FLOUR, AND THEN I THROW IN 2 TO 3 TABLESPOONS OF VANILLA EXTRACT, AND THEN A CUP OF MILK.

CAN'T REALLY GO WRONG WITH PIE, I THINK.

IT'S NOT HARD TO MAKE.

Jean Anne: THE SUGAR CREAM PIE IS JUST -- IT'S AN AMAZING RECIPE.

Mason: THE BUTTER, IT'S KEEPING THE PIE LIGHT.

IT'S SO SIMPLE AND SO EASY THAT IT'S UNBELIEVABLE THAT IT CAN TASTE AS GOOD AS IT DOES.

Sebak: THAT'S JEAN ANNE BAILEY, MASON'S MOTHER, WHO OWNS THIS LITTLE LANDMARK RESTAURANT CALLED NICK'S KITCHEN.

NOWADAYS IT'S MOSTLY MASON'S KITCHEN.

Jean Anne: HE CAME IN, AND I TAUGHT HIM HOW TO MAKE PIES AND THEN HE STARTED TEACHING ME.

"MOM, THIS IS THE WAY YOU DO IT.

THIS IS THE WAY IT TASTES BETTER."

HE DOES A GREAT JOB.

HIS PIES ARE PRETTIER THAN MINE, I HAVE TO TELL YOU.

I LOVE THE SUGAR CREAM PIE.

Mason: I MAKE THE PIE DOUGH ABOUT ONCE A WEEK, AND THAT'LL PROBABLY GIVE US ABOUT 40 PIES.

Jennifer: YOU TAKE A BITE, AND IT'S CREAM-FILLED IN YOUR MOUTH, AND THE CRUST IS HOMEMADE -- THAT'S MY FAVORITE PART.

Jean Anne: WE USE HOMEMADE PIE CRUSTS WITH CRISCO AND FLOUR AND WATER.

YOU KNOW, JUST MAKE IT REALLY GOOD.

AND THEN THE SUGAR AND HOW THIS IS ON TOP IS CRUSTED.

IT'S JUST THE PERFECT MIXTURE IN YOUR MOUTH.

Mason: FOUND YOU'VE GOT TO BE SPARING WITH THIS CRUST ON TOP, THOUGH.

IF YOU DO IT, IT GETS A LITTLE TOO THICK.

Jean Anne: PEOPLE CALL IT HOOSIER PIE, PEOPLE CALL IT OLD-FASHIONED CREAM PIE, PEOPLE CALL IT SUGAR PIE.

WE'VE ALWAYS JUST CALLED IT SUGAR CREAM PIE.

THERE'S LOTS OF DIFFERENT WAYS TO MAKE IT.

YOU KNOW, EVERYBODY HAS THEIR OWN NICHE.

Sebak: AND IN INDIANA, PEOPLE LIKE THIS PIE ENOUGH TO GO LOOKING FOR VARIATIONS.

SOME CAN BE PICKED UP AT NEWFANGLED ROADSIDE STANDS, LIKE THE ROLLING PIN BAKEHOUSE NEAR ROANOKE, INDIANA, OPERATED BY A PIE-BAKER NAMED NATALIE WARNER.

I AM A HOME-BASED VENDOR, SO I RUN A BAKERY FROM MY HOME.

IT'S THE SAME KITCHEN I USE TO MAKE POTATO SOUP FOR MY FAMILY.

I HAVE A WEBSITE THAT MY HUSBAND CREATED FOR ME.

AND SO CUSTOMERS EITHER ORDER THROUGH THE WEBSITE OR THEY CALL ME WITH THEIR ORDER.

AND THEN WE SET UP A TIME, AND THEN I MEET THEM OUT FRONT OF MY HOUSE.

I'VE GOT A LITTLE TABLE THERE, AND I JUST MEET THEM OUT IN THE DRIVEWAY, AND THEY GET THEIR GOODS AND I GET THEIR MONEY.

$10.

Sebak: WHICH PIE DOES SHE SELL THE MOST OF?

SUGAR CREAM.

DEFINITELY SUGAR CREAM.

WHO WANTS PIE?

EVERYBODY LOVES IT.

AND I HAVE FOUND OUT THAT NOT ALL OTHER STATES HAVE SUGAR CREAM PIE, AND THAT IT'S VERY REGIONAL.

MY HUSBAND'S FROM UTAH.

THE FIRST TIME I HAD SUGAR CREAM PIE, I WAS AMAZED AT HOW SWEET IT WAS, HOW GOOD.

Natalie: AND HIS FAMILY HAD NOT HEARD OF IT, AND I WAS LIKE, "THIS IS NORMAL, LIKE WE HAVE THIS ALL THE TIME AT MY HOUSE."

AND YEAH.

Chad: IT'S ONE OF THE THINGS THAT I TELL NATALIE, THIS IS ONE OF THE GOOD THINGS ABOUT MEETING YOU IS MEETING SUGAR CREAM PIE.

Natalie: THE SUGAR CREAM PIE IS MY MOM'S SECRET RECIPE, AND WHENEVER SHE WOULD TAKE IT PLACES WE WOULD ALWAYS HEAR, "OH, YOUR MOM'S PIE!

YOUR MOM'S PIE!

OH, WE LOVE THAT SUGAR CREAM PIE!

CARLENE'S SUGAR CREAM PIE!"

SO I KNEW THAT PEOPLE LIKED THAT A LOT.

Sebak: WELL, AFTER ABOUT SIX MONTHS, BECAUSE NATALIE'S NEW BUSINESS WAS DOING WELL, HER MOTHER, CARLENE STALLER, DECIDED SHE MIGHT WANT TO GIVE THIS HOME-BASED-BUSINESS THING A TRY, TOO.

SHE CALLED AND SAID, "WOULD YOU MIND IF I DID THE SAME THING YOU'RE DOING WITH THE PIES AND HAD A STAND OUT AT MY HOUSE?"

Carlene: AND I'D BEEN KIND OF THINKING IN THE BACK OF MY MIND, "I COULD DO THAT!

IF NATALIE CAN DO THAT, I CAN DO THAT."

Natalie: SHE'S NOT REALLY COMPETITION BECAUSE WE'RE ABOUT HALF AN HOUR AWAY FROM EACH OTHER, AND SHE'S GOT A GOOD LOCATION.

SHE HAS A BETTER LOCATION THAN I DO.

I'M OUT ON THIS SIDE COUNTY ROAD.

Carlene: FOR YEARS MY KIDS WERE TELLING ME -- 'CAUSE MY SUGAR CREAM PIE IN THE FAMILY AND FRIENDS, EVERYBODY LOVES IT AND HAS ALWAYS, "AH!

MAKE THAT!

MAKE THAT!

SHE CALLED ME WITH LOTS OF QUESTIONS ABOUT, "WHAT ABOUT -- DOES THE HEALTH DEPARTMENT LET YOU DO THIS?

Carlene: INDIANA CHANGED THEIR HOME-BASED VENDOR LAWS ABOUT 4 YEARS AGO, I THINK, BECAUSE UP TO THAT TIME, I WOULD HAVE HAD TO HAVE A WHOLE SEPARATE KITCHEN AND COOKING FACILITY.

Natalie: YOU CAN'T HAVE ANYBODY COME INTO YOUR HOME TO GET IT.

YOU HAVE TO BE OUTSIDE OF THE HOME AT A ROADSIDE STAND.

PEOPLE LAUGH WHEN I TELL THEM, LIKE, "NO, I JUST MEET THEM IN MY DRIVEWAY."

THEY'RE LIKE, "WHAT?!"

[ LAUGHS ] IT WORKS.

Carlene: I THINK IT REALLY MAKES PEOPLE HAPPY.

THEY GET REALLY EXCITED WHEN THEY GET ONE OF MY PIES, SO... Sebak: SO THERE ARE MANY REGIONAL FLAVORS THAT MAY ENTICE YOU -- NEW FRUITS TO TRY.

IN WHITEFISH, MONTANA, FANS OF THE HUCKLEBERRY KNOW ABOUT LOULA'S CAFE ON 2nd STREET.

Katie: WE ARE LOCALS HERE, SO LOULA'S IS ONE OF OUR FAVORITE BREAKFAST SPOTS, AND DEFINITELY THE PIE.

THE FIRST THING HE SAID WHEN HE WALKED IN WAS, "CAN WE GET A TREAT AFTER BREAKFAST?"

SO HE WAS EXPECTING THE PIE.

IT'S LIKE THE APPLES ARE PERFECTLY CRISPY, SO THEY'RE NOT, LIKE, MUSHY.

YES, WE HAD BREAKFAST EARLIER AND CAME BACK FOR OUR PIE.

CAME BACK FOR A PIE.

Dana: THIS IS COCONUT CREAM PIE WITH HUCKLEBERRY SAUCE.

I THINK IT'S THE ATMOSPHERE, TOO.

JUST WELCOMING AND WARM.

Sebak: THE PLACE IS OWNED AND RUN BY MARY LOU COVEY, WHO YOU MIGHT ASSUME IS LOULA.

MY NAME IS MARY LOU, AND I USED TO HAVE A PARTNER NAMED LAURA, AND WE PUT THOSE TWO NAMES TOGETHER TO CREATE A NAME FOR THE RESTAURANT.

WE DO A LOT OF BREAKFAST AND LUNCH.

THAT'S KIND OF WHAT WE'RE KNOWN FOR IS THE BREAKFAST AND LUNCH.

Sebak: THE KITCHEN IS RUN BY CHEF SHAUN McCOLLUM FROM GEORGIA, WHO HAPPENS TO BE MARY LOU'S SON-IN-LAW.

Shaun: THE WAY I LOOK AT IT, THE PIES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN SYNONYMOUS WITH WHAT MAKES THIS PLACE TICK.

AND I DON'T THINK THAT IF WE DIDN'T HAVE THE PIES THAT WE WOULDN'T BE NEARLY AS SUCCESSFUL.

Mary Lou: THESE ARE READY TO BE SERVED BY THE SLICE OR IF SOMEBODY CAME AND SAID, "OH, CAN I TAKE THAT WHOLE THING HOME?"

WE'D SAY, "YOU BET."

Sebak: NOWADAYS MARY LOU WORKS OFTEN WITH LINDSAY SHORTER TO ASSEMBLE THE PIES.

Mary Lou: WELL, WE MAKE THE PIE CRUSTS FIRST.

AND WE MAKE THEM IN BIG BATCHES.

WE MAKE -- WHAT DID WE DECIDE?

ABOUT 30 -- ABOUT ½, 3 DOZEN.

YEAH, AT A TIME.

Sebak: THEY HAVE GIVEN UP ROLLING PINS FOR A MACHINE CALLED A SHEETER THAT ROLLS OUT THE CRUSTS.

Mary Lou: OH, MY GOSH, WE COULDN'T DO IT WITHOUT.

WHEN WE STARTED DOING THIS, WE WERE DOING LIKE -- WE DID IT ALL HAND-ROLLED, AND WE ONLY WERE DOING LIKE 6 PIE CRUSTS A DAY.

HA!

THAT WAS A WHILE AGO.

Sebak: THEY STILL ROLL THE EDGES AND CRIMP EACH PIE BY HAND.

Mary Lou: AND WE ACTUALLY THEN PUT THOSE IN THE FREEZER TO SET UP FIRM.

AND THEN WE GET THE FRUIT OUT, AND WE MIX IT ALL TOGETHER WITH THE SUGAR AND THE THICKENER.

WE USE INSTANT TAPIOCA, AND THEN WE USE -- IT'S CALLED CLEAR JEL.

AND IT'S SORT OF A MODIFIED CORNSTARCH.

THIS IS A LITTLE BIT DRY.

I'M GOING TO ADD JUST A LITTLE BIT OF WATER.

I WANT EVERYTHING TO MIX, BE MIXED IN REALLY WELL.

I LOVE PIE.

YEAH, YOU LIKE PIE.

YOU LIKE HUCKLEBERRY?

YES.

Mary Lou: WELL, OUR BIGGEST SELLER IS, OF COURSE, HUCKLEBERRIES BECAUSE THAT'S THE WILD BERRY.

IT'S A NORTHWEST THING, AND THEY ONLY GROW WILD.

NO ONE'S BEEN ABLE TO, LIKE, CULTIVATE THEM OR PROPAGATE THEM, AND WE BUY AS MANY AS WE CAN GET OUR HANDS ON BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT WE SELL THE MOST OF.

YOU GET INTO THE BACKCOUNTRY, YOU'RE COMPETING WITH BEARS FOR THE HUCKLEBERRIES, SO YOU KIND OF HAVE TO BE CAREFUL OF THAT.

AND THEY FREEZE REALLY WELL.

THEN WE USUALLY MIX THOSE BERRIES WITH, LIKE, RASPBERRIES, HUCKLEBERRY-PEACH IS THE FAVORITE, THE MOST POPULAR.

Ronnie: SHE WAS EXPLAINING -- WE'VE GOT SEVERAL VARIETIES OF THE HUCKLEBERRY.

THE HUCKLEBERRY MIXED-BERRY.

THIS IS A HUCKLEBERRY-RASPBERRY.

THIS ONE IS HUCKLEBERRY-PEACH, AND THEN THIS ONE HERE IS HUCKLEBERRY-CHERRY.

OH, HUCKLEBERRY-PEEEEEACH!

THAT'S WHAT I WAS -- THAT'S THE ONE?

Monte: THIS IS HUCKLEBERRY-CHERRY PIE.

BOTH FRUITS, I ABSOLUTELY LOVE.

AND THEY'RE LOCAL.

WE GROW CHERRIES HERE, AND WE GROW HUCKLEBERRIES HERE.

AND IT'S KIND OF A MOUTHFUL OF NORTHWESTERN MONTANA IN A BITE.

Mary Lou: AND THEN WE MAKE KIND OF THE NORMAL APPLE PIE.

AND THEN WE ALSO DO CREAM PIES -- COCONUT CREAM, CHOCOLATE CREAM.

ANOTHER REALLY POPULAR ONE IS THE KEY LIME, AND THEN WE PUT A HUCKLEBERRY SAUCE OVER THE TOP OF THAT THAT'S OUTSTANDING.

Dana: HONESTLY, THIS REALLY IS THE WAY TO GO.

EVERYTHING'S BETTER WITH HUCKLEBERRIES ANYWAY, RIGHT?

I THINK THAT'S RIGHT.

CREAM.

COCONUT.

MY PIE'S BETTER THAN YOURS.

DO YOU WANT A BITE?

YEP.

I'D LOVE TO.

MMM.

ISN'T THAT GOOD?

Lindsay: IT'S SO UNIQUE, JUST HAVING A PLACE THAT DOES EVERYTHING FROM SCRATCH ANYMORE.

SO MANY RESTAURANTS, YOU KNOW, WILL BUY FROZEN OR PROCESSED-TYPE FOOD, AND IT'S JUST REALLY UNIQUE THAT WE TAKE THE TIME AND EFFORT TO DO IT FROM STEP ONE ALL THE WAY TO THE END, AND THAT'S WHAT PEOPLE KEEP RETURNING FOR.

Sebak: IF YOU HAVE TO LEAVE HERE, YOU MAY HOPE TO END UP IN MINNESOTA, WHERE PIE MAKER, EDUCATOR, AND STORYTELLER ROSE McGEE MAY INVITE YOU TO A PARTY AT HER HOUSE IN GOLDEN VALLEY, JUST OUT MINNEAPOLIS.

Rose: SO, WE'RE GOING TO START WITH THIS MINNESOTA STAR HERE.

PEOPLE GET A CHANCE TO COME AND HAVE SOME PIE.

[ LAUGHS ] AND THAT'S A GOOD THING BECAUSE IT'S SUMMER AND IT'S TIME TO JUST BRING PEOPLE TOGETHER A LITTLE BIT.

THERE'LL BE A FEW PEOPLE HERE.

Sebak: THE PARTY IS INSIDE AND OUTSIDE, AND FOR HER GUESTS, ROSE IS MAKING HER SPECIALTY -- SWEET POTATO PIES -- FROM SCRATCH, USING A VARIETY OF SWEET POTATOES.

Rose: WHEN I COOK THEM, I ALWAYS CUT THEM IN HALF BECAUSE IT HELPS THEM TO COOK FASTER, AND THE GENERAL RULE OF THUMB IS 2 POTATOES MAKE A PIE.

Sebak: HER GUESTS -- INCLUDING FOOD WRITER AND ADVOCATE SUE ZELICKSON -- ALL LOVE PIES.

Sue: NOT SO MANY PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT SWEET POTATO PIE.

YOU THINK OF THAT AS THAT VEGETABLE, SWEET POTATO, THAT YOU EAT AT THANKSGIVING, BUT NOT IN A PIE.

AND ONCE YOU TASTE THEM, YOU GET HOOKED.

Rose: I SEE IT AS A LOST ART -- THE SWEET POTATO PIE.

AND FOR ME, THE SWEET POTATO PIE IS THE SACRED DESSERT OF BLACK CULTURE AND ALSO SOUTHERN -- SOUTHERN COOKING.

SO SOUTHERN PEOPLE, NO MATTER WHO, THEY KNOW WHAT A SWEET POTATO PIE IS, AND THEY KNOW WHAT A GOOD SWEET POTATO PIE IS.

Sebak: PEOPLE FROM OTHER BACKGROUNDS, LIKE NANCY MUSINGUZI, WHOSE PARENTS ARE FROM AFRICA, MAY BE SURPRISED.

SO, I ABSOLUTELY HATED SWEET POTATO PIE.

AND I NEVER TRIED IT.

I WAS PRETTY RESISTANT TO IT, BUT I TASTED ROSE'S, AND I'M SOLD.

ABSOLUTELY LOVE IT.

YUMMY, YUMMY, YUMMY.

Rose: EVERYBODY HAVING A GOOD TIME?

IT'S ALL RIGHT?

HOW'S THE PIE?

OKAY.

I GOT TO TASTE THIS MYSELF.

A LONG AS IT MEETS THE APPROVAL... SUE ZELICKSON'S IN THE HOUSE.

SUE?

ALL RIGHT.

SUE SAID IT'S GOOD.

Man: THE FOOD CRITIC.

Woman: I HAVE NOTHING LEFT ON MY PLATE.

I CAN'T DESCRIBE THIS.

I CAN TELL YOU MY EXPERIENCE, BUT I CAN'T REALLY TELL YOU WHAT IT TASTES LIKE.

Rose: SOMEWHERE ALONG THE LINE, I STARTED WANTING TO EAT THE SWEET POTATO PIE BECAUSE THAT'S WHAT I ENJOYED THE MOST THAT MY GRANDMOTHER USED TO MAKE, AND I JUST STARTED MAKING THEM MORE, AND THE NEXT THING I KNEW I WAS SELLING THEM AT FARMERS' MARKET.

Sue: I HAVE A GRANDSON WHO, WHEN HE WAS LIKE 5 YEARS OLD, WANTED TO GO -- I BROUGHT HIM SOME SWEET POTATO PIE, AND HE WANTED TO MEET THE LADY THAT MADE THEM, SO I TOOK HIM TO THE MARKET ONE DAY, AND THEN FOREVER THEREAFTER, THEY WANTED SWEET POTATO PIE FOR THANKSGIVING.

SO IT IS A TRADITION THAT MANY PEOPLE HAVE, BUT THEN THERE'S A LOT OF PEOPLE THAT HAVE NEVER HAD IT.

I LIKE THE STARS.

YEAH, I DO, TOO.

I LIKE THE AMERICAN THEME WITH THE STATE OF MINNESOTA.

Rose: SO, I JUST DO LOTS OF CUT-OUTS JUST TO KIND OF PERK THE PIE UP A LITTLE BIT.

Nancy: ONE OF THE MOST SUCCULENT, LIKE, DESSERTS I'VE HAD EVER.

AND THEN JUST KNOWING HER STORY KIND OF INJECTS THIS NEW MEANING INTO SWEET POTATO PIE, SO NOW I ASSOCIATE THIS DESSERT WITH SOMETHING REALLY -- SOMETHING WITH DEPTH AND A PERSONALITY ALL ENCOMPASSED INTO ONE AND THEN KIND OF MANIFESTED IN THIS.

OH!

YOU KNOW... Woman: SHE'S SURPRISED.

IT'S ROCKIN', HUH?

EXCELLENT.

Sebak: ROCKIN' ROSE MCGEE ALSO LED US TO THE TOWN OF BRAHAM, MINNESOTA, WHERE EVERY YEAR, ON THE FIRST FRIDAY OF AUGUST, THEY HOLD AN EVENT KNOWN AS BRAHAM PIE DAY.

Rose: YOU KNOW, THE COMMUNITY COMES TOGETHER A WAY THAT I WISH WE COULD JUST TELL THE WORLD ABOUT IT, AND MORE PEOPLE COULD DO IT.

THE IDEA OF EVERYBODY IN TOWN JUST SORT OF COMING TOGETHER AROUND PIE.

IT'S NOT YOUR EVERYDAY EVENT.

TURNING THIS MANY PEOPLE OUT TO A LITTLE TOWN LIKE BRAHAM, MINNESOTA, IS EXTRAORDINARY.

Tish: WE'RE ABOUT 75 MILES FROM MINNEAPOLIS.

IT'S NICE LITTLE TOWN.

EVERYBODY KNOWS EVERYBODY.

Wayne: IT REPRESENTS THIS TOWN.

AND IT'S SUCH A GREAT THING, AND SO MANY PEOPLE COME FROM ALL OVER THE PLACE TO COME HERE JUST FOR PIE.

PIE CAPITAL OF THE WORLD -- BRAHAM, MINNESOTA.

Valorie: BRAHAM IS THE HOMEMADE PIE CAPITAL OF MINNESOTA, ORDAINED, DECLARED, SANCTIONED AS SUCH IN 1990 BY FORMER GOVERNOR RUDY PERPICH, AND WE CELEBRATE THAT WITH A ONE-DAY-LONG PIE FESTIVAL WHERE EVERYTHING WE CAN THINK ABOUT TO DO WITH PIE, WE DO.

Kathy: IT'S MY THIRD OR FOURTH TIME HERE, AND I REMEMBER YEARS AGO, JUST HEARING ABOUT PIE DAY, AND I THOUGHT, "PIE DAY!

HOW CAN YOU RESIST PIE DAY?"

Sebak: WHILE A BIG CRAFT SHOW SETS UP IN THE TOWN PARK, NOT FAR AWAY, PIE BAKERS OF ALL AGES ARE BRINGING THEIR WARES TO THE BRAHAM EVANGELICAL LUTHERAN CHURCH HALL, WHERE THE JUDGING WILL TAKE PLACE.

HAPPY DAY.

THANKS FOR PARTICIPATING.

IT'S A SERIOUS COMPETITION.

Woman: WE HAVE CATEGORIES -- FRESH FRUIT, WE HAVE SINGLE CRUST, DOUBLE CRUST, CHILDREN'S, WHICH IS 8 TO 12, AND WE HAVE APPRENTICE, WHICH IS AGES 13 TO 17, AND LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT, WHICH IS PEOPLE 70 OR OLDER.

I BROUGHT PEANUT BUTTER APPLE.

A CHOCOLATE COOKIE PIE.

AWESOME BLUEBERRY PIE.

Sebak: ONCE THE ENTRIES ARE ALL REGISTERED AND BOXED AND PICTURES HAVE BEEN TAKEN OF ALL THE CONTESTANTS WITH THEIR PIES, IN THE NEARBY KITCHEN, FOUR JUDGES, INCLUDING ROSE McGEE, HAVE TO DECIDE WHICH PIES ARE BEST IN EACH OF THE CATEGORIES.

Rose: I'LL BE JUDGING THE CHILDREN'S DIVISION, WHICH SEEMS TO BE MY SPECIALTY CATEGORY.

WE RATE ON THE FILLING -- DOES IT OOZE WHEN IT COMES OUT?

DOES IT HOLD ITS SHAPE?

THE FLAVOR, THE COLOR OF THE PIE CRUST, CRISPINESS.

Donna: I'M LOOKING FOR INTERESTING FILLINGS, TO SEE WHAT PEOPLE CAME UP WITH.

THAT'S THE FUN PART IS TO SEE WHAT PEOPLE HAVE COME UP WITH THAT'S DIFFERENT.

I'M EATING...RHUBARB DELIGHT.

Sebak: THE JUDGES CUT A VERY SMALL SLIVER OUT OF EACH OF THE 50-SOME PIES BECAUSE MANY OF THESE ENTRIES WILL BE AUCTIONED OFF LATER IN THE FESTIVAL TENT IN TOWN.

Donna: JUST ENOUGH SO THAT YOU CAN GET A TASTE.

Rose: A BLUEBERRY ALMOND.

THIS IS A PEACH PIE.

PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY PIE.

IT TASTES EXACTLY LIKE A PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY SANDWICH.

Rose: CHEDDAR APPLE PIE.

Donna: THE TOP CRUST MIGHT WANT TO BE DONE JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE.

IT LOOKS LIKE IT MIGHT BE A LITTLE BIT SOFT THERE.

OOOH!

IT'S LOVELY!

Donna: THE CRUST IS PERFECT.

THIS IS OUR -- UNLESS SOMETHING BETTER COMES UP -- THERE'S OUR GRAND PRIZE RIGHT THERE.

AND THE NEXT PIE.

AWESOME BLUEBERRY.

AWESOME BLUEBERRY, ALL RIGHT.

IT'S DELICIOUS PIE.

IT'S VERY GOOD.

Troy: IT'S FANTASTIC.

I WANT TO TAKE IT HOME.

[ LAUGHS ] Donna: THIS IS DELICIOUS.

Sebak: THE DELICIOUS SCORES ARE TALLIED, THEN THE JUDGES RETASTE AND NEGOTIATE THE FINALISTS AND THE GRAND CHAMPION.

-OH, THAT'S YOUR... -THE KEY LIME.

...GORGEOUS KEY LIME.

-OOH.

NOW, THAT IS KEY LIME, PEOPLE.

Donna: I HOPE EVERYONE OUT THERE UNDERSTANDS WHAT A BRUTAL JOB WE HAVE TASTING ALL THESE PIES.

WHAT A PRETTY CUT.

FINDING A GRAND CHAMPION.

IT'S REALLY TOUGH, ISN'T IT, MARY JANE?

Sebak: THE RACE IS TIGHT, ESPECIALLY BETWEEN THE KEY LIME AND THE CHERRY LATTICE.

IT'S HARD TO JUDGE THEM BECAUSE THEY'RE SO DIFFERENT, ONE IS LIKE A BOLD LIME, AND THE OTHER ONE'S KIND OF LIKE, MORE OF ON THE SUBTLE CHERRY, BUT ONE HAS MORE SKILL.

RIGHT.

-Rose: THE YOUNG PEOPLE ROCK.

-Donna: WIN.

Troy: THE YOUNG PEOPLE HAVE THE TOP TWO.

YES, THEY DO.

SO THAT'S FABULOUS.

THAT MEANS THAT THE BRAHAM PIE FESTIVAL WILL CONTINUE.

Sebak: SO THE GRAND CHAMPION PIE AND MANY OF THE OTHER WINNERS ARE CAREFULLY LOADED INTO THE TOWN'S FIRE RESCUE TRUCK -- OR AMBULANCE-- TO BE TRANSPORTED OFFICIALLY BACK TO TOWN.

Annette: THE PIES GET THERE BY THE AMBULANCE, AND YOUR GOAL IS TO "MAKE THE AMBULANCE" BECAUSE THAT WAY YOU DON'T HAVE A PIE THAT FELL APART OR THAT'S NON-EDIBLE.

AND SO, EVEN IF YOU DON'T WIN, IF YOU MAKE THE AMBULANCE, YOU'RE STILL A WINNER.

THE PIES THAT ARE JUDGED, THEY COME BACK UP HERE AND THEY GET SOLD.

Sebak: AT 3:00, IT'S TIME TO AUCTION OFF ALL THE PIES.

Man: IT'S THE OLD SCHOOL OF TYPE AUCTIONS WHERE YOU CAN -- ANYBODY CAN BID.

JUST PUT YOUR HAND UP.

AFTERWARDS YOU'LL GO OVER AND SETTLE UP WITH MY WIFE, JOANIE.

RIGHT THERE, SELLING THE PIE... [ AUCTIONEER CALLING ] Sebak: ALL OF THE WINNING PIE MAKERS GET TO PARADE THEIR WORK THROUGH THE CROWD, HOPING THAT SOMEONE WILL BID BIG.

[ CALLING CONTINUES ] $1,300.

$1,250.

$1,300.

$1,300.

[ CHANTING ] $1,300.

SOLD OUT.

$1,250.

MARION LARSEN, SHE'S ON THE PHONE WITH A BIDDER FROM CALIFORNIA, I BELIEVE, OR TEXAS.

Woman: TEXAS.

[ APPLAUSE ] -TEXAS.

YOU WANT TO TALK TO ME, GORDON?

YEAH, $1,250.

YEAH.

[ LAUGHTER ] NOT $12.50.

$1,250.

OH, YOU THOUGHT THAT WAS CHEAP?

OKAY.

GOOD.

THANK YOU.

THANK YOU.

OKAY, THE CATEGORY THAT IS LEFT IS THE GRAND CHAMPION.

THAT MEANS IT'S THE BEST OVERALL PIE, AND WE'LL HAVE A COMMENT OR TWO ABOUT THIS BEST PIE.

OKAY.

SO WE HAD ANOTHER PERFECT SCORE TODAY ON THIS PIE.

IT WAS A CHERRY PIE, A CHERRY LATTICE-TOP PIE.

IT WAS MADE BY A YOUTH FROM THE APPRENTICE CLASS.

LAURA BERGLUND FROM SHOREVIEW.

LAURA!

[ APPLAUSE ] Laura: I'VE BEEN BAKING PIES FOR A REALLY, REALLY LONG TIME WITH MY GRANDMA.

I'VE BEEN COMING HERE SINCE I WAS REALLY LITTLE AND TO, LIKE, GET THIS.

AND I KNOW ALL THESE BAKERS WHO'VE BEEN BAKING FOR THEIR WHOLE LIVES, AND I'VE JUST LIKE -- I COULD PROBABLY COUNT HOW MANY I'VE DONE ON MY OWN ON LIKE TWO HANDS, HOW MANY PIES I'VE MADE ON MY OWN, SO THIS IS REALLY COOL.

IT'S REALLY EXCITING.

Sebak: YES, PIE CAN BE EXCITING.

IT CAN LIFT A SMALL TOWN.

Rose: THIS COMMUNITY RECOGNIZES THAT PIE IS SOMETHING THAT IS FAMILY, IS TRADITIONAL, AND IT JUST BRINGS PEOPLE TOGETHER IN A WHOLESOME WAY.

PIE IS SOMETHING THAT YOU SHARE.

AND SO IT BRINGS PEOPLE TOGETHER 'CAUSE YOU JUST DON'T MAKE PIE FOR YOURSELF.

WE'RE SITTING DOWN TO EAT PIE.

BUT IT'S WHAT'S HAPPENING AROUND THE TABLE WHEN WE'RE ALL EATING PIE.

I THINK THAT'S PART OF IT.

Sebak: PIE MAY HAVE UNEXPECTED CONSEQUENCES BEYOND THE TASTY.

Stacy: IN THE SUMMER HERE IN MAINE, FAMILY GET-TOGETHERS, OUTDOOR PARTIES, EVERYBODY WANTS PIE.

IT JUST SEEMS TO GO SO WELL WITH THE CELEBRATION OR THE TIME OF YEAR.

THEN YOU'VE GOT TO SIT DOWN.

IT'S NOT SOMETHING YOU EAT ON THE FLY.

IT'S SOMETHING YOU SAVOR.

AND I THINK THERE'S INTEGRITY TO PIE.

YEAH, IT JUST KIND OF SPEAKS TO THAT PRIMAL GOODNESS.

Valorie: IF YOU'RE THE BAKER OF IT, YOU GET SOME REAL NICE PATS ON THE BACK FOR DOING A NICE JOB, AND THAT MAKES YOU WANT TO DO IT AGAIN.

Sebak: THERE'S NO REASON TO EVER STOP SEARCHING FOR LUSCIOUS CRUSTS AND UNUSUAL OR SIMPLY SUPERB FILLINGS.

AND YOU KNOW WHAT?

IT DOESN'T MATTER IF YOU EVER FIND THE BEST.

THERE ARE SO MANY THAT ARE SO GOOD.

AND IF YOU EAT THIS AND DON'T LIKE IT, I'LL GIVE YOU THE PIE.

-- Captions by VITAC -- www.vitac.com TO VISIT A FEW MORE PIE PLACES AND FOR A FEW RECIPES, GO TO PBS.org/food!

"A FEW GOOD PIE PLACES" IS AVAILABLE ON DVD.

TO ORDER, VISIT shopPBS.org OR CALL 1-800-PLAY-PBS.