Western Turkey

Merhaba, I'm Rick Steves, back with more travels.

This time, we're living the good life --

backgammon, a nice glass of raki,

and the sparkling Mediterranean.

It's the best of Western Turkey.

Thanks for joining us.

This time, we're spicing things up,

venturing east of Europe

for the more exotic charms of Turkey.

I've been traveling here since my backpacker days

and I've enjoyed seeing the country evolve.

Today, Turkey's a mighty nation whose ancient heritage,

Muslim traditions, and Western ways

are coming together beautifully.

♪♪

As we explore Western Turkey,

we'll see magnificent Roman ruins,

relax in ancient pools...

munch lunch in a Turkish pizzeria,

learn why dervishes whirl as they pray...

and enjoy a Mediterranean cruise

on a traditional Turkish gulet,

capped with a refreshing plunge.

In the Eastern Mediterranean, Turkey links Europe

with the Middle East and Asia.

Starting in the port of Kusadasi,

we'll explore ancient Ephesus.

Then we'll travel up to Pamukkale,

Aphrodisias, and Konya before finishing in Antalya.

Turkey is where East meets West.

For centuries, a cultural, economic,

and religious crossroads,

it's long been a land of change.

And Kusadasi is a fine example of the latest change,

modern prosperity.

The port of Kusadasi

is a good low-stress place to start our Turkish adventure.

As if to remind its residents of a humbler past,

colorful fishing boats still bob in its harbor,

cradled in the sweeping curve of a people-friendly promenade.

Kusadasi is booming today in part because of its foresight

in building a fine cruise port.

Nearly every morning in season,

ships carrying thousands of passengers

slip artfully into harbor.

As they disembark,

cruisers enjoy an ambush of hospitality

as traditional musicians

celebrate their arrival.

I find Turkey every bit as friendly

and rich in history as Greece.

The food's great and it's a good value.

While most visitors find it's a safe and welcoming place,

it still feels exotic.

In Turkey, some women may be more comfortable

traveling with a partner,

but with a spirit of adventure

and applying your common sense,

I think anyone can find this country

as friendly, comfortable, and as intriguing as I do.

Kusadasi is popular with travelers

because it's just a few miles from the ancient Roman city

of Ephesus.

While tour buses and taxis can get you there in a snap,

as anywhere in Turkey,

I like the excitement of hopping a local minibus,

or "dolmus."

A dolmus is kind of a cross between a taxi and a bus.

You hop on one heading in your general direction,

tell them where you're going, then relax.

They'll tell you when to jump out.

Okay, Ephes.

Ephes.

Thank you.

The ancient home of the Ephesians

is one of the world's greatest classical sites.

The west coast of what we now call Turkey

was once a cultural heartland

of ancient Greece.

Ephesus blossomed as a Greek city

in about the 4th century BC.

It was later consumed by the expanding Roman empire

and eventually became a major Roman city.

While the site is vast,

only about 15% of this Greco-Roman metropolis

has been excavated.

But as Rome fell, so did Ephesus.

Once a thriving seaport,

the city was sacked by barbarians.

Eventually its busy port silted up and it was abandoned.

1,000 years of silt left it stranded three miles inland

from the Aegean coast.

The library -- the third-largest

of the Roman empire,

is a highlight.

The facade is striking.

Statues of women celebrating the virtues

of learning and wisdom inspired the citizenry.

The city's main street is lined with buildings grand,

even in their ruined state.

This one, known as Hadrian's Temple,

was built in the second century.

Dedicated to Emperor Hadrian,

its decorations are full of symbolism.

To this day, archeologists debate just what it all means.

For extra guidance, we're joined by my friend

Lale Surmen Aran.

For years, Lale has led our bus tour groups around Turkey,

and for this itinerary she's joining us.

Huge city -- quarter of a million people.

This was one of the biggest metropolises

of the Roman period.

Now, we're in the downtown and the main street of the city,

but the city expanded beyond this main street on both sides.

RICK: So, way up to the mountain, actually?

LALE: On both directions, way up to the mountains,

and housed 250,000 people.

All the city was planned.

Right underneath us there was a huge sewer,

and there were clay pipes at either side of the street

taking fresh water to the baths and the fountains.

Ah, so they had aqueducts coming in and powering the whole city.

LALE: Yes.

See, these were the public toilets

attached to the Roman baths next door.

Everybody sat next to one another.

RICK: So, public toilets were really public.

The terrace houses stretch up from the city's main drag.

These excavations are incredibly complex,

like piecing together an enormous puzzle.

The fragments are so delicate,

the ongoing work is protected under a roof.

The terrace houses give us a particularly intimate look

at Ephesian life 2,000 years ago.

Now, how many families would have lived in this zone?

LALE: Only five.

-Just five?

-Five families.

And these were huge houses.

RICK: This must have been the elite of Ephesus.

LALE: Ultra, ultra rich.

Not only for Ephesus,

but among the richest of the world

lived in these houses.

RICK: So, when you walk through here,

can you imagine what it would be like to live at that time?

Sort of -- it was very luxurious living in these houses.

All houses were arranged around an atrium,

so they had the courtyard with rooms all around,

which were richly decorated with art on two or three floors.

A standard feature of any Roman city

was its theater.

To estimate an ancient city's population,

archeologists multiply the capacity

of its theater by ten.

As this one holds 25,000, they figure the city's population

was a quarter million.

It was here that the apostle Paul planned to give his talk

instructing the Ephesians to stop worshipping man-made gods.

And here in Ephesus, that god was Artemis.

The local craftspeople produced statues of Artemis like this.

It was a big industry --

they exported them far and wide.

When they realized Paul's message

would ruin their businesses, they started a riot.

Imagine this theater filled with thousands of people

all shouting in one angry voice,

"Great is Artemis of the Ephesians."

For his own safety, Paul had to flee,

and he ended up giving his message by letter.

That's why, in the Bible, we've got Paul's letter

to the Ephesians.

Back in Kusadasi, the cruise ships have left

and the town is once again relaxed.

We're capping our day

with strolling locals on the harbor front.

Like anywhere along the Mediterranean,

the town promenade is the great equalizer.

Everyone is welcome to enjoy this convivial scene.

And when the call to prayer rings out,

I'm reminded that people of all faiths share the same joys.

[Call to prayer]

One of the delights of traveling in Turkey

the the cuisine; seafood is the forte

here on the coast, and we're joined by some local friends

for a feast.

Traditionally, meals start with a selection of "meze" --

fun little plates

that let you dip into a variety of taste treats.

- Fava bean.

-Ah, right, then I like the eggplant over there.

So, I want -- no, no, yes, yes, yes, yes.

When Turks are ready to party, the local firewater, raki,

is often part of the mix.

It's an anise flavored drink, like ouzu,

you mix to taste with water.

Very nice.

[Toasting in Turkish]

And it goes surprisingly well with the meze --

octopus salad,

Fava beans pureed with olive oil,

zucchini fritters, and grilled eggplant.

And for our main course,

the kitchen is preparing an array of fresh seafood.

We've chosen sea bass encased in salt, as is the tradition,

to keep in all the flavor.

Oh, that looks very nice!

At the table, our fish is cracked open

and filleted with pride.

Mmm!

The flavor with the olive oil and the salt,

which keeps the flavor in.

This is excellent.

We've a saying in, again, Aegean region --

if you drink raki and eat fish,

fish in your tummy reincarnate and swim again.

[Laughing]

Kusadasi is a practical springboard

for exploring western Turkey.

We're driving up the Meander Valley

famous for its fertile farmland.

We're here in April,

and the farmers are busy with their crops

before the stifling heat of summer hits.

And the strawberries are ripe for picking.

Today's Turkish culture is shaped by a complicated history.

Ancient Greece, and then Rome from the West,

swept in and established a culture

that led to the Byzantine empire.

Eventually, Muslim Seljuks from the east

ended Christian Byzantine rule.

Then the Ottomans stormed in and ruled until World War I,

when the father of modern Turkey, Ataturk,

established the Turkish Republic.

While the Republic is secular,

the vast majority of Turks are Muslim.

Turkey is filled with over 75 million people.

They come in many ethnicities,

and after thousands of years of exposure

as a crossroads between Europe and Asia,

it's quite a mix.

Faces tell the story...

The landscapes of this vast country

are as diverse as the people it supports.

Distances are long, traffic is sparse,

and the roads are great.

In what seems like the middle of nowhere,

we come to a striking white hillside.

This marks the ancient city, spa, and necropolis

of Hierapolis.

In Roman times, the rich and frail

came here to spend their last years, and to die.

We approach today as visitors always have --

walking through the evocative tombs,

then passing under an imposing Roman gate

where a grand boulevard leads you to the mineral springs,

Famous since ancient times

for its curative waters and tranquility.

Today, the ever-popular springs

in the shadow of ancient ruins

fill a pool littered with a dreamy assortment

of ancient Roman columns that sparkle

beneath the crystal-clear water.

A soak here is like bathing in hot champagne.

Below, the wondrous white cliffs of Pamukkale

create a scenic backdrop for bathers.

The water flowing over the rocks

leave a calcium residue that whitens and solidifies,

creating a wonderland of pools and terraces

that, along with the commanding view,

make an unforgettable setting.

Turkey fills the Anatolian Peninsula,

and Anatolia is peppered with civilizations long gone.

And around here, important sites

are constantly being unearthed.

Aphrodisias is a relatively recent excavation.

The more they dig,

the more many archaeologists believe that Anatolia,

rather than Mesopotamia, further to the east,

is the cradle of our civilization.

While this site goes back much further,

what we see today is ancient Roman --

only about 2,000 years old.

This ornate gateway gives us a sense

of the impressive city's former grandeur.

And judging from its stadium,

this town was really into sports.

This is a proper stadium, one "stadion" long --

that's about two football fields.

Events like athletic contests,

animal fights, and gladiator sports

packed the house.

On the road to Konya, we drive deep into the Taurus Mountains.

Get off the main road.

Any little town will have

the local equivalent of a pizza joint.

It's dinner time and that's our plan.

When you drop into a place that rarely sees a tourist,

you're likely to enjoy a particularly warm welcome.

A Turkish pizza is called "pide,"

and that's what's cooking.

[Conversing in Turkish]

Diced meat, minced meat,

cheese, and eggs.

He can either make plain ones

or a combination of these ingredients.

Okay, let's get a variety.

Okay.

[Speaking Turkish]

RICK: So, this is the mixed with the cheese?

LALE: Yes, and this is with the diced meat.

The beef.

RICK: Oh, and we have more even.

[Speaking Turkish]

Ayran -- I love this stuff.

It's a yogurt drink -- it's healthy, it's cheap,

it's a fun part of the pide culture.

This is Konya, one of the most conservative

and religious towns in western Turkey.

For many Turks, this town's a bit too orthodox,

but I'm looking for all sides of Turkey

and Konya is a fascinating stop.

This city of a million people

is one of the oldest in the world,

with known settlements dating back 8,000 years.

The city has an illustrious history.

Back in the first century, when Konya was called Iconium,

the apostle Paul visited several times,

and during its heyday in the 13th century,

Konya was the capital of the Muslim Seljuk empire.

Strolling the streets, you experience the contrasts

of the old and the new.

It's a university town with a fine park,

ideal for young couples enjoying

a little private time.

And wandering into its back streets,

much of the traditional side of Turkey survives

and the orthodoxy of Konya becomes more apparent.

For instance, nearly all women wear scarves.

The huge produce hall is busy with people

picking up locally grown fruits and vegetables.

In the hubbub of the crowded streets,

browsing can be endlessly entertaining.

Boys with trays of tea or chai scurry from shop to shop.

Remember, travelers have a richer experience

when they make a point to connect.

Drink some tea.

The barber shop is still a great way

to catch up on all the gossip.

The finale?

Spanking with a flame,

leaving you smooth as you've ever been.

And poking into unusual shops,

you'll be surprised at what you may learn.

Turns out this place is a one-stop shop for shepherds.

[Cowbells clanging]

So, I'm a shepherd, sitting here in the elements.

Ah, this is my backpack.

I have to have a flute.

Perfect.

Do you take credit cards?

[Lale interpreting]

Okay!

It's a good deal.

Konya is the home of Mevlana,

also known as Rumi,

a 13th-century Muslim philosopher

who preached a message of love.

His tomb is the focus of many pilgrims

visiting from throughout Islam.

Under beautiful domes,

the tombs of Mevlana, his family,

and earliest followers are venerated.

Pondering the tomb of their great teacher,

pilgrims remember his message which focused on

connecting the powerful love of god with us on Earth.

Mevlana said, "I looked for god

in all the temples, mosques and churches,

and found him in my heart."

The adjacent museum explains Mevlana's teaching

with a display of significant writings,

books of poetry, and historic copies of the Koran.

Mevlana attempted to distill the message of Koran

into a pure and simple anthem of love.

His teaching was a mystical interpretation

of mainstream Islam,

and his followers, called "dervishes,"

have dedicated their lives

to living out that Mevlana, or Rumi, philosophy.

[Playing]

Mevlana's dervishes whirl themselves

into a meditative trance.

While raising one hand toward heaven,

the other toward Earth,

they symbolically plant one foot on the Koran,

the Muslim word of God,

while the other walks through all the world.

One hand rises up as if to accept the love of god.

The other goes palm down,

showering the love of our creator on all humanity.

As he whirls, the dervish transcends our material world,

becoming a conduit between the love of god

and his creation.

Wherever you travel in Turkey,

you'll find opportunities to witness

this mesmerizing form of prayer.

It's a good example of the many facets of Islam --

a powerful religion that perhaps we can

take the initiative to better understand.

A scenic drive south from Konya

takes us over more of the Taurus Mountains

toward the Mediterranean coast.

And sprawling out from those mountains

spreads the metropolis of Antalya.

Antalya, with two million people,

has long been an important port.

Its idyllic harbor was founded in ancient Roman times.

These days it deals mostly in good living

as tourism is the town's main industry.

A once-imposing wall fortifies the old town.

Today, a gate dedicated to the emperor Hadrian

still leads into a delightful collection of

Ottoman era houses

that cater to the tourists --

shops and boutique hotels that fill the historic center.

And above it all is a thriving modern Turkish city.

Its people-friendly promenade,

like so many public spaces here,

comes complete with the requisite statue

of the father of the Turkish Republic,

Ataturk.

Strolling here, it feels to me

like anywhere else in Mediterranean Europe.

The people just seem to be in love with life.

A popular excursion from Antalya

is a cruise on a gulet,

the traditional Turkish sailboat.

These boats, which are designed to suit all tastes,

keep the harbor busy.

After so much sightseeing,

simply luxuriating for a day at sea

puts me truly on vacation.

Meeting the captain and crew, I know I'm in for

a wonderful and relaxing experience.

Sailing away, we marvel at the dramatic shoreline

under snowcapped peaks.

Resorts...

park-like beaches...

and ancient ruins clinging to cliffs

are all tucked into this rugged yet accessible

Riviera playground.

While the rowdier party boats take one side of the bay...

we drop the hook in a more peaceful corner.

Ya!

Even in April the water is inviting,

and our boat serves as a handy swimming platform.

While the crew is busy putting together

an impressive feast for lunch,

we enjoy an invigorating swim.

Having worked up an appetite, we're served a feast.

Enjoying our meal at sea

provides a great chance to both eat some fresh fish

and get to know the crew.

Well-fed, refreshed from our swim,

and peacefully anchored in this scenic corner of Turkey,

we take a moment to appreciate

what traveling here offers.

I hope you've enjoyed our journey through Western Turkey,

with its evocative ancient sites,

beautiful ways of worship, and vivid traditions.

In this complicated corner of our world,

Turkey is an impressive success story.

Join us next time for more adventures.

Until then, I'm Rick Steves -- keep on travelin'.

Gule gule.

Hi, I'm Rick Steves, ready to kick off a new career

as a Turkish shepherd.

[Man bleating]

...have dedicated their lives to living out that Mevlana,

or Rumi, philosophy.

[Cheering]

Like my teeth?

Go away!

[Laughing]