Don’t Tom Thumb Your Nose at Me! (Part 2)

(Music plays)

Previously on A Chef's Life.

Today is the day that I have been waiting for,

for like six months.

We have been planning for this huge lunch

for the Southern Foodways Alliance Symposium

in Oxford, Mississippi.

Four hundred people.

Food writers, chefs.

What everybody is kind of waiting to try is a tom thumb.

I can't believe I'm doing this, serving this organy thing.

(Music plays)

The theme of the symposium is women, work, and food.

So for the topic of my lunch

I have chosen to honor all the women in my life.

The women who have made me the woman that I am.

Some of these casings are definitely going to split

and when that happens we can't freak out.

I invited a friend named Jason Vincent from Chicago

down to help me prep for the lunch.

Here goes nothing.

Yes, I have chosen to serve a stuffed pig's appendix

to 400 food writers and southern food fanatics.

(Theme music plays- The Avett Brothers "Will You Return")

I'm Vivian and I'm a chef.

My husband, Ben and I

were working for some of the best chefs in New York City

when my parents offered to help us open our own restaurant.

Of course, there was a catch.

We had to open this restaurant in Eastern North Carolina,

where I grew up and said I would never return.

(theme music)

(theme music)

So this is my life.

Raising twins, living in the house I grew up in,

and exploring the south, one ingredient at a time.

(Music plays)

Yes.

(Laughter)

That's perfect.

Forty-one more times.

At sunrise, Ben, Jason, and I

are already in the prep kitchen getting ready

for our one o'clock lunch.

Okay so, chicken broth to the tilt skillet, please.

(Music plays)

Awesome.

Is that everything?

This is eight.

(Music plays)

So this is uhh hen broth.

Forty laying hens sacrificed themselves

for our chicken and rice today.

That's what we're going to cook the rice in.

Hopefully it's going to be super flavorful

because it's got all this nice fat.

So, this is the big day.

I've been planning for this for like six months

and I can't believe it's actually here.

I feel good.

I'm attacking the thing I'm most concerned about first

so if there's problems hopefully we can troubleshoot.

Okay.

Tell me how you envision this going course by course.

So, four lines.

Peas and cabbage, tom thumb, relish, go.

So it would be like a three person assembly line

and we would have four of those.

Okay.

Right.

We were putting out slow plates yesterday.

Um, and I don't want to run into that for the sake of the crowd

and for the sake of you guys either.

Alright, we'll work on that schedule.

Eleven for non perishable,

twelve hot food.

Cool.

Awesome.

Thank you.

What time is it?

Uh ten to seven.

Three and a half hours.

Game time.

(Music plays)

(Music plays)

How many gallons were in the count?

Well there were like 15 to 20 in the big one.

There was eight in the small one.

So you didn't really actually count?

I told you I couldn't count

because that cooler was on the bottom.

Okay, so you didn't throw any bags out

before putting stuff in the...

No they're all in that tub.

How many are there?

There's not enough stock to cook all the rice.

But that's fine.

We just won't have as much rice.

Okay, um, Jason, when you start opening these butterbeans...

Yeah.

If there is any air in the bag just don't even bother.

Really?

There's... We've got plenty.

Okay.

I don't need your stress.

Jesus!

I'm starting to feel the pressure a little bit.

I would too.

I'd be way worse off than her.

(Music plays)

I'm gonna cook less rice, I think.

I'm trying to do this math

and there's some issues with some of my preserved vegetables

and all Ben is doing is just sitting there talking.

Sorry.

It's very stressful.

He's relaxed.

No, he's nevermind, I don't even wanna talk right now, okay?

What seemed like not a whole lot to get done

is suddenly stressing me out terribly.

I cannot remember how to make rice to save my life.

I made chicken and rice at least a thousand times by now

and the thought of cooking it

for 400 people... is overwhelming.

If I cook it too soon it will end up a congee, gummy mess.

If I don't cook it soon enough

it won't be done all the way through.

Cooking rice is not easy and...

why I have chosen to cook it for 400 people

is something I can't really tell you.

Chef, my I ask you a question?

So, I've made chicken and rice my whole life,

but I've never made it in such a big batch.

I'm concerned about it, the rice swelling and splitting.

Um, so obviously I'm going to wait to the last minute

to make it, to cook it.

Would that be the only safeguard you would recommend?

If it were me I would take it and have it cooked

and fold it in right at the last minute

so that it literally is...

that's what we do for gumbo.

You don't let the rice sit in it forever.

But that's not what my mom would do.

I know, I know, I know.

So, the chicken broth over here,

Vivian is worrying about the rice goes in...

the rice should finish right in time for service

in the bog itself.

That's how she was raised with her mom.

She's worried about with the time we've got

for the product to sit,

you know the rice is going to swell and split.

I said if it were me I would cook it pilaf style

to where it's ne exactly how you want it

and at the last minute all you have to do is fold it in.

What do you think?

I think that would work, chef.

The other option you have

is just adding it in at the very end

and hoping it cooks all the way through.

But then you might have an issue of it being crunchy in there.

I'd rather it be split than crunchy.

So we would take it over there in a hotel pan pilaf style

and fold it in on site to hot broth?

Sure.

That's what you're saying?

Okay.

So, I'm probably going to do that.

I'm just afraid it's going to lose

some of it's like, love, that way.

And my mom is coming.

(Laughter)

In that case we're leaving.

You're on your own.

(Laughter)

Well, I think I'm going to do that.

I think I'm going to cook it pilaf style and fold it in.

I can't not take their advice.

Scarlett ain't gonna be happy.

(Music plays)

So, are we in the oven full on now?

No, there's two bottom trays.

So, what happens when the seal is broke?

They've gone bad.

How many?

I don't know Ben.

I don't know.

Do you think you're going to get 50 percent of these?

I don't know.

That seal's broken.

That seal's broken.

How can you tell?

I can just tell.

I don't understand why you're shutting down.

Because there's the cameras here

and there's other people in the room...

Okay.

(Music plays)

Just put the bowl down, please.

I know it seems silly to place

so much emphasis on one meal or one event

but in my mind I had built this up to be this moment

when I proved to the Chef World that I'm worthy of their praise.

And the fear that my butterbeans would not make it to the plate

or that I would make someone sick was terrifying.

And all of the pressure of that on top of the pressure

of all the other courses and everything riding on this

and the fact that my parents were coming down to Oxford

to witness the whole thing nearly sent me over the edge.

Yeah, I'm just having a crisis.

We're gonna get you taken care of.

I know, I know and I'm very prepared.

I've just had a lot of time to think about all the details.

I know.

And I've been thinking about the details for so long.

So, it's gonna be fine.

I know it's gonna be fine.

I just don't want you to worry.

You're starting to have that worried look in your eyes.

But look, we're gonna get this thing take care of.

You're gonna look like a rock star.

I'm um...

I'm good.

I'm good.

Luckily John Currence, who's orchestrated this event

for at least 12 years now, swooped in,

put his warm hand on my back

and told me everything was gonna be okay.

And I believed him.

I can't believe I just started crying.

That's so embarrassing.

So, I um...

I had a moment.

I lost quite a few of my preserved butterbeans,

but thank the lord for some okra cause that's gonna round it out

and make the salad enough.

But that one thing can just like,

can just send you in a tail spin and you second guess everything.

I mean I was second guessing freaking tomato pie

that I've served 1000 times, 2000 times.

Um, so it can really do a lot to destroy your confidence

so it will be fine

but I did let my emotions totally get away from me.

Let's hope that's the last time today.

(Music plays)

So do you think I can go ahead and cook my rice now, then?

Get that out of the way before I have a freaking conniption fit?

Yeah and we can lay it out...

Okay.

(Music plays)

So, what I'm going to do is cook my rice like pasta in my liquid

and then pull it out and cool it down on sheet trays,

and then we'll fold it in at the last minute.

(Music plays)

So Jason, in about ten minutes, when I say go,

you and I are both gonna scoop this rice out.

And he was recommending that I do it pilaf style

but that just like, is not what I wanna do.

This is like sure- fire, get the rice the way you want it.

It won't soak up too much stock?

Right.

And it's still done in the same method.

As a chef, in this situation, you know you want to seem

as if you know everything and I've chosen to cook a bog.

I should freaking know how to do it, right?

So, for me to have to ask Chef Currence or Fish

or anybody's advice is very humbling.

So, in about three or four minutes

Jason and I are going to rapidly scoop this rice out of here.

You want me to just finish this batch and clear out of here?

Yes.

Thank you.

No problem.

She's trying to do a really big, very important meal

and sort of manage that in somebody else's kitchen.

When you get chefs who have been doing this for a while

we all think we know what we're doing but this is her big lunch.

A very important lunch for some very important people

so I can't...

I don't think I could even handle it.

She's doing a magnificent job.

Alright Jason.

Now we're going to pull it out and chill it.

We'll stir it in at the last minute.

(Music plays).

Can we get a runner to the walk-in?

Can I get a runner to the walk-in?

You're going to need two towels as well.

(Music plays)

(Music plays)

Jason, is this the tomato water?

We'll deal with it.

Give us just a minute.

I just want to put it up.

You can smile about it.

That's true love.

Yes it is.

We've been doing this a long time.

(Music plays)

(Music plays)

Okay we're as clear as we're gonna be.

Yeah.

Whooo!

So we're all just waiting now to go.

We've done everything we could do here.

We're getting ready to pack the van, head out,

and face a whole new set of challenges.

I'm excited for it to be over.

I'm excited to see my mom and dad.

Let's get all four of these loaded in the back

of the black truck that's right out here

and let's start loading in the van

so we can get it moving.

(Music plays)

You know, like one thing can send you in a tail spin.

Oh yeah.

And I forgot how to cook rice and...

Yeah.

And then I started crying.

It happens sometimes.

(Music plays)

So, she only threw up once?

She's got a fever?

Alright, okay.

Love you too.

Bye.

I talked to my mom.

I just called.

What did she say?

She said she threw up five times last night.

Five?

She's got 102 fever but she seems like she feels okay.

She's a little lethargic but she's not like,

complaining that she doesn't feel good or...

Don't tell my parents of they'll fly back.

(Music plays)

So we packed up that cargo van once again

and proceeded to drive over to the location

and plate my monster of a lunch.

Go ahead and start laying them out.

Tomato pie.

All the way down both of these.

Plating a four course lunch for 400 people is

no small feat in itself.

I believe we had something like 15 people plating these courses

and we're going down a procession of lines.

Everyone had one task and it's really a beautiful assembly line

that can only be organized by someone who knows

what they're doing and thank God John Currence was there.

Alright, so any spare hands we got, let's uh,

let's consolidate.

Any pies we got over here that we can finish this table with.

Let's keep the empty plates as far over this way as possible

since we're cutting here, okay?

Some of them I feel like they need

more of the butterbeans and corn.

This is the acid so it's more than just a garnish kind of.

(Music plays)

This event is the marquee event for the weekend

and service is what makes it or breaks it.

We're serving a lot of people.

We're approaching 400 folks.

It's going to be a lot of movement.

Vivian Howard is one of the finest people

that I've ever known in my entire life

and makes some of the most delicious food

and we're honored to have her here today.

She's gonna tell you what we're having for lunch.

Um, okay so, I'm from eastern North Carolina.

This meal is meant to honor the women in my family,

my mom, my two grandmothers.

The first course is honoring my Grandma Hill

so we have a tomato pie

that will be on the table as folks arrive.

The second course is in honor of my mother.

It is chicken and rice.

It's a very simple bog.

The third course is for my grandmother Iris, my dad's mom.

And it is a tom thumb.

So, a tom thumb comes out of the hog killing tradition

of eastern North Carolina

where families would come together in the fall

and slaughter and butcher pigs.

They didn't want to waste anything

so they took their sausage mix and stuffed it

into the pig's appendix.

They then take that sausage that's cured and dried

and developed in flavor and boil it and then cook greens,

collard greens or cabbage in the liquid

and then slice the tom thumb, pan fry it

and serve it with the greens.

I go into all this detail

because no one in this room has probably ever had this.

Uhh...

thank you.

(Laughter)

I've never done anything at this scale

so thank y'all for making it happen.

Okay, thank y'all very much.

We'll call you in about ten minutes....

How many people do you think you will have?

375

375...

Enough food?

I think so.

(Laughter)

I'm very emotional.

Oh, you were pretty calm there.

Mom fall in in there?

I don't know, you better check mama.

No hair spray.

(Laughter)

No hair spray.

Your daddy...

(Laughter)

No hair spray.

Dad didn't let her bring any hair spray.

He said I couldn't check it.

It's fine.

(Laughter)

I love you.

I love you, too.

(Music plays)

(Chatter)

Hey.

I told them this woman has been preparing for this meal

for a year and it shows.

As your husband puts it,

it's your life story engaging on the plate.

I really appreciate you doing this.

It means a lot.

Thank you.

I hope it shows on the plate.

I'm like so emotional.

I'm gonna start crying.

I went in there and was looking at those pictures of my family

before and I like like started crying.

I'm like chefs don't cry.

(Laughter)

You do.

I do.

This is the symposium on women at work

so you can cry and kick ass.

(Laughter)

(Music plays)

(Chatter)

Despite all the stress and strain,

the questions and the doubts, we're plating the lunch

and the food is going out looking beautiful.

Okay, so I'm just gonna plate one so we can all look at it.

So four ounces, okay?

Yes ma'am.

Can I have the chicken skin?

Like three or four pieces of skin?

Yes.

Tighten up.

Tighten so you can just slide it.

Excellent.

Come on, let's go!

Let's go!

Let's go!

It would have been a very safe bet for me

to have hinged my meal on my mom's chicken and rice

or my grandmother's tomato pie,

but I chose to make the show stopper

my Grandma Iris's tom thumb.

Ready to roll?

Let's go!

Take two!

Alright.

(Music plays)

But I am very close to the trashcan as the plates come back

and I can not keep my eyes off of them.

And when you're watching 1600 plates come back

that are basically an expression of yourself

and you're watching to see

how much of that is thrown in the trash,

that can also be very very stressful.

And truth be told I saw lots of hunks

of that stuffed pig's appendix come back

and get chucked in the trash.

But I still feel like there was no better way

to honor my culinary heritage

than by making my Grandmother Iris's tom thumb.

This lunch that we get to eat on paper plates

but to at this moment sit down to china.

This is our high holy moment

and we're so happy to welcome Vivian Howard to this stage.

I'm probably not going to say too terribly much.

I would like to first of all thank the SFA

for giving me the opportunity to honor um,

my family and my region.

Lastly, I would like to thank my parents,

John and Scarlett Howard.

(Cheering)

(Cheering)

Finally, this thing is over and I am so excited.

I feel really good about it.

I feel like in my life I have said many times

that I did my absolute best

and in this case I truly did my absolute best.

Could things have gone a little more smoothly at times?

Absolutely.

But I feel wonderful about what I was able to express

on 1600 plates.

And the best part about it all is I was able to honor the women

who made me the woman that I am through the food of their table.

I love you, dad.

(Music plays)

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