Venice and its Lagoon

HI, I'M RICK STEVES,

BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

THIS TIME WE'RE EXPLORING MY FAVORITE LAGOON ANYWHERE --

IT'S VENICE.

THANKS FOR JOINING US.

AND HOLD ON TIGHT.

YEAH.

IN ITS DAY, VENICE RULED AN EMPIRE

WITH TRADING POSTS STRETCHING

ALL THE WAY TO GREECE AND TURKEY.

BUT TODAY, IT'S JUST A SMALL TOWN OF 60,000

WITH ENDLESS INTRIGUE OFFERING RICH REWARDS

FOR THE THOUGHTFUL TRAVELER.

VENICE OFFERS ONE OF EUROPE'S

TRULY GREAT SIGHTSEEING EXPERIENCES.

ITS MAIN SQUARE, PIAZZA SAN MARCO,

WITH ITS GRAND DOGE'S PALACE

AND THE BASILICA OF ST. MARK'S,

MARKED BY ITS TOWERING CAMPANILE,

WAS THE MOST POWERFUL

COUPLE OF ACRES IN ALL OF EUROPE FOR CENTURIES.

LIKE A GRAND BOULEVARD,

ITS GRAND CANAL WINDS THROUGH A CITY LINED

WITH ONCE MIGHTY PALAZZOS.

AND VENICE IS REMARKABLY WELL-PRESERVED,

WITH AN INTOXICATING MIX OF SIGHTS AND EXPERIENCES

YOU'LL NEVER FORGET.

IN THIS SECOND OF TWO EPISODES,

WE VENTURE BEYOND THE BLOCKBUSTER MAIN SIGHTS.

WE'LL JOIN A FRIEND WITH A FAST BOAT

TO EXPLORE THE LAGOON AND DISCOVER VILLAGE VENICE,

SEE TRADITIONAL ARTISANS BLOW IT BIG TIME,

JOIN LOCALS IN THE MARKET,

GET TO KNOW THE LEADING VENETIAN PAINTERS,

AND FOLLOW THE SUPERPOWER'S DECLINE

INTO THE DECADENCE OF ITS HEDONISTIC 18th CENTURY.

IN THE NORTH OF ITALY, AT THE HEAD OF THE ADRIATIC SEA,

VENICE SITS IN A VAST LAGOON,

CONNECTED TO THE MAINLAND BY A CAUSEWAY.

ALONG WITH THE MAIN ISLAND,

WE'LL VISIT THREE OTHER ISLANDS --

TORCELLO, MURANO, AND BURANO.

VENICE WAS BORN IN MUD LIKE THIS.

AFTER THE FALL OF ROME, FARMERS ON THE MAINLAND,

SICK AND TIRED OF BEING OVERRUN BY BARBARIANS,

MOVED OUT INTO THIS LAGOON,

HOPING THE BARBARIANS DIDN'T LIKE WATER.

FROM THAT HUMBLE BEGINNING WAS BORN

ONE OF EUROPE'S GREAT CITIES.

AND BY THE 13th CENTURY, VENICE HAD BECOME THE ECONOMIC

AND MILITARY SUPERPOWER OF EUROPE.

TODAY'S LAGOON IS FILLED

WITH REMINDERS OF ITS FIRST INHABITANTS,

THOSE FARMERS WHO BECAME SEAFARING MERCHANTS,

DREDGING CANALS,

POUNDING IN MILLIONS OF TIMBERS FOR FOUNDATIONS,

AND BUILDING COMMUNITIES

THAT ULTIMATELY COALESCED TO BECOME VENICE.

BUT THOSE FIRST SETTLEMENTS WERE HUMBLE.

TORCELLO -- ABOUT A HALF HOUR BY BOAT FROM MAIN ISLAND --

WAS ONE OF THE FIRST PLACES WHERE MAINLANDERS SETTLED.

ONCE A THRIVING COMMUNITY,

TORCELLO WAS DECIMATED BY MALARIA,

AND TODAY, ONLY ITS FINE CHURCH REMAINS.

DATING FROM THE 7th CENTURY,

THIS IS THE OLDEST CHURCH IN THE LAGOON.

THE CHURCH FEELS ANCIENT.

ITS WOOD FRAME AND BEAM CEILING WAS FLEXIBLE

TO ACCOMMODATE THE EVER-SHIFTING FOUNDATION UNDERNEATH.

ITS MOSAICS ILLUSTRATE THE IMPORTANCE OF THE CHURCH

TO THOSE FIRST VENETIANS.

HELLO!

HI, RICK.

HOW YOU DOING?

MY FRIEND PIERO IS PICKING ME UP FOR A TOUR OF THE LAGOON.

VENETIANS LOVE THEIR BOATS.

FOR PIERO, IT'S HIS ESCAPE.

HE SPENDS HIS FAVORITE HOURS AWAY FROM THE CRUSH OF TOURISTS

IN WHAT HE CALLS HIS "PARALLEL VENICE."

Steves: WHEN DID YOU HAVE A BOAT IN THE BEGINNING?

MY FIRST BOAT?

YEAH.

MY FIRST BOAT, SIX YEARS OLD.

SERIOUSLY?

SERIOUSLY.

THIS BOAT MEAN THE FREEDOM,

THE FREEDOM TO ESCAPE FROM THE STRESS LIFE,

WHEN THE TOWN IS SO CROWDED,

THERE IS A LOT OF PEOPLE,

WHEN THERE IS A LOT OF TOURISTS.

IT'S A PERFECT THING TO ESCAPE FROM.

YOU STEP IN THIS BOAT, YOU HAVE YOUR PARALLEL VENICE.

EXACTLY.

Steves: THE LAGOON IS PROTECTED FROM THE OPEN SEA

BY A STRING OF LOW-LYING ISLANDS.

UNTIL MODERN TIMES, THE CITY WAS ACCESSIBLE ONLY BY BOAT.

THEN, IN 1846, THIS CAUSEWAY WITH TRAIN TRACKS,

AND A HIGHWAY ADDED LATER BY MUSSOLINI,

CONNECTED THE CITY TO THE REST OF ITALY.

WELL-MARKED CHANNELS ARE DREDGED THROUGH THE SHALLOW LAGOON.

BOATS OF ALL KINDS SHUTTLE BACK AND FORTH.

OUR NEXT STOP IS MURANO.

VENICE IS FAMOUS FOR ITS GLASS,

FOR CENTURIES BLOWN HERE ON THE ISLAND OF MURANO.

A 13th CENTURY LAW RESTRICTED THE DANGEROUS GLASS FURNACES

TO MURANO TO PREVENT FIRES ON THE MAIN ISLAND

AND ALSO TO PROTECT THE SECRETS OF VENETIAN GLASSMAKING,

HISTORICALLY VITAL TO THE LOCAL ECONOMY.

TODAY, GLASS IS STILL BIG BUSINESS,

AS TOURISTS COME HERE IN DROVES.

WHILE SAVVY SHOPPERS KNOW

THAT CHEAP KNICKKNACKS ARE MOST LIKELY FROM CHINA,

THE VENERABLE ART FORM IS ALIVE AND WELL,

AS YOU'LL SEE IN SOME OF THE ELABORATE SHOWROOMS.

YOU CAN WITNESS THE TRADITIONAL MASTERY OF THIS CRAFT

IN ADJOINING WORKSHOPS, WHICH WELCOME THE PUBLIC.

THESE ARTISANS ARE FROM FAMILIES OF GLASSBLOWERS

WHICH GO BACK MANY GENERATIONS.

IF YOU DON'T HAVE A VENETIAN FRIEND WITH A BOAT,

WATER TAXIS ZIP QUICKLY FROM ISLAND TO ISLAND,

WHILE REGULAR FERRYBOATS

CONNECT VENICE WITH NEIGHBORING LAGOON COMMUNITIES

IN A MORE RELAXED AND LESS EXPENSIVE WAY.

OUR NEXT LAGOON STOP IS BURANO.

BURANO, WITH ITS PASTEL FACADES GRACING THE LAGOON,

WAS FIRST A FISHING TOWN.

LATER, IT THRIVED AS A LACE-MAKING CENTER.

TODAY, IT'S POPULAR WITH VISITORS FOR ITS GENTLE AMBIENCE

AND LACE SHOPS.

ONCE SLEEPY, ITS MAIN CENTER IS NOW CROWDED WITH TOURISTS.

LOCALS SAY, "ANYTHING WITH A DOOR IS A SHOP."

BURANO'S LACE-MAKING HERITAGE GOES BACK 500 YEARS.

SHOPS PROUDLY DISPLAY

THESE PAINSTAKINGLY PRODUCED WORKS OF ART.

RATHER THAN USING BOBBINS,

WOMEN MAKE BURANO'S BEAUTIFUL LACE

WITH ONLY NEEDLES AND THREAD.

METICULOUSLY FOLLOWING TIME-HONORED PATTERNS,

THESE TRADITIONS CONTINUE TO BE PASSED

FROM OLDER GENERATIONS TO THE NEXT.

AS THE DAY WINDS DOWN, SHOPS CLOSE

AND THE CROWDS RETURN TO VENICE.

STAY AND WANDER BURANO'S BACK LANES FOR A PEACEFUL SLICE

OF THE VENETIAN LAGOON MOST VISITORS MISS.

EARLIER TODAY, THIS PLACE WAS PACKED WITH TOURISTS.

I'M HERE IN THE EARLY EVENING, AND I'VE GOT IT ALL TO MYSELF.

ALL OVER ITALY, ESCAPE THE HEAT AND CROWDS

BY SIGHTSEEING LATE IN THE DAY.

AS THE SUN SETS,

PIERO PICKS US UP, AND WE HEAD BACK TO VENICE.

IN THIS LIGHT, THE TIMELESS BEAUTY OF THE LAGOON

IS PARTICULARLY STRIKING.

PIERO'S IS TAKING US TO HIS FAVORITE RESTAURANT,

ON ANOTHER ISLAND, GIUDECCA, JUST ACROSS FROM TOWN.

FROM THIS PEACEFUL CANAL-SIDE PERCH,

THE HUBBUB OF DOWNTOWN VENICE

BECOMES A ROMANTICALLY FLOODLIT CITYSCAPE.

PIERO'S BROTHER-IN-LAW ROBERTO HAS JOINED US,

AND AFTER A DAY ON THE LAGOON,

IT ONLY MAKES SENSE TO OPT FOR SEAFOOD,

THE OBVIOUS FORTE AND PASSION OF VENETIAN CHEFS.

FOR ANTIPASTI, WE HAVE A TRAY OF RICHES FROM THE LAGOON --

SARDINES, CALAMARI, OCTOPUS, AND BACCALA.

THIS IS LIKE A CREAM.

IT'S BACCALA MANTECATO.

SO THIS WOULD BE A COD?

Steves: AND ALONG WITH IT,

A BOWL OF FRESH MUSSELS AND CLAMS.

SPAGHETTI ALLA BUSARA COMES NEXT.

THIS DISH IS COMMON IN THE NORTH ADRIATIC

VENETO?

YOU KNOW, VENETO?

AND THE FIRST PART OF THE CROATIA THAT IS ISTRIA.

OKAY.

Steves: IT HAS A FRESH TOMATO SAUCE,

SPAGHETTI MADE FROM FARRO,

AND IT'S TOPPED WITH LANGOSTINO.

THE FOOD IS FANTASTIC,

AND THIS ROMANTIC SETTING MAKES IT EVEN BETTER.

THE TOURISTY HEART OF VENICE

CAN BE ABSOLUTELY MOBBED ALL YEAR LONG.

THE MAIN SQUARE, PIAZZA SAN MARCO,

WITH THE BASILICA SAN MARCO

AND THE DOGE'S PALACE, UNDERSTANDABLY ATTRACTS

BIG CROWDS.

MIDDAY, THE BUS TOUR GROUPS

DAY-TRIPPING IN FROM THEIR MAINLAND HOTELS

AND CRUISE SHIP PASSENGERS CONVERGE,

ALL DUTIFULLY FOLLOWING THEIR GUIDES.

THE WATERFRONT BECOMES A HUMAN TRAFFIC JAM.

AND TOUR GROUPS IN GONDOLA CONVOYS

CLOG THE CANALS.

BUT IT'S EASY TO ORGANIZE YOUR SIGHTSEEING

TO ESCAPE THOSE CROWDS.

FIVE MINUTES ON A VAPORETTO TAKES ME ACROSS THE BASIN

TO PALLADIO'S DREAMY CHURCH OF SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE.

ITS 16th CENTURY FACADE FEATURES THE STYLE

MADE FAMOUS BY ANDREA PALLADIO,

WHO INSPIRED GENERATIONS OF ARCHITECTS

IN ENGLAND AND AMERICA.

INSIDE, HIS TEXTBOOK

RENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURAL VALUES ARE EVIDENT --

CLARITY, ORDERLINESS, MATHEMATICAL PERFECTION.

IN THE CHOIR AREA, WITH ITS FINE ACOUSTICS,

MONKS GATHERED TO SING AND WORSHIP.

THE ALTAR IS TOPPED WITH A BRONZE GLOBE,

ACKNOWLEDGING DISCOVERIES OF THE NEW WORLD

AND THE UNIVERSALITY OF THE CHRISTIAN MESSAGE.

THE STATUE IS OF GOD THE FATHER,

WHOSE TRIANGULAR HALO IS A REMINDER

THAT HE'S PART OF THE HOLY TRINITY.

THE CHURCH'S BELL TOWER REWARDS VISITORS

WITH STUNNING VISTAS OF VENICE AND THE LAGOON.

THE VIEW FROM HERE IS MY FAVORITE IN TOWN.

VENICE IS AN ALMOST PERFECTLY PRESERVED, CAR-FREE CITY.

IT'S BUILT UPON COUNTLESS ISLANDS

ALL LACED TOGETHER WITH BRIDGES,

ALLEYS, AND CANAL SIDEWALKS.

SMALLER CANALS FLOW LIKE STREAMS INTO ITS MAIN THOROUGHFARE,

THE GRAND CANAL.

ONCE A GLITTERING CENTER OF POWER WITH LUXURIOUS PALACES

SHOWING OFF THE WEALTH OF ITS MERCHANT CLASS,

THE NOW SINKING, SHRINKING CITY IS IN A STATE OF ELEGANT DECAY.

VENICE SURVIVES THANKS TO GOVERNMENT HELP AND TOURISM.

ONE PLACE THAT HAS ALWAYS SURVIVED

WITHOUT THE HELP OF TOURISM IS VENICE'S FISH MARKET.

IN THE MORNING, IN THE SHADE OF THE FAMOUS RIALTO BRIDGE,

THE FISH MARKET IS BUSY WITH LOCALS STOCKING UP.

OBSERVING THE TIMELESS EVERYDAY RITUALS OF THE MARKET,

IT'S CLEAR,

AMID ALL THIS TOURISM, VENETIAN CULTURE SURVIVES.

SEAFOOD STILL PLAYS A BIG ROLE IN ITS CUISINE.

SMALL FISH -- ANCHOVIES AND SARDINES -- ARE LOCAL.

SHRIMP, OCTOPI, AND SQUID, FRESH FROM THE LAGOON,

DISTINGUISH MANY VENETIAN DISHES.

FROM THE RIALTO,

A STREET CALLED THE MERCERIE LEADS TO ST. MARK'S.

THIS IS THE TOURISTS' MAIN DRAG,

WITH HUMAN TRAFFIC JAMS

AND A GAUNTLET OF SHOPPING TEMPTATIONS.

MANY TOURISTS, AS IF IN A KNICKKNACK-INDUCED TRANCE,

NEVER GET BEYOND THIS ONE GLITZY STREET.

IF THIS IS ALL YOU EXPERIENCE, AS IT IS FOR SO MANY,

VENICE CAN BE MORE EXHAUSTING THAN ENJOYABLE.

BUT SAVVY TRAVELERS LEAVE THE CENTER AND EXPLORE.

WALK AND WALK TO THE FAR REACHES OF TOWN.

DON'T WORRY ABOUT GETTING LOST.

KEEP REMINDING YOURSELF,

"I'M ON AN ISLAND, AND I CAN'T GET OFF."

WORST-CASE SCENARIO -- YOU RUN OUT OF ISLAND,

AND YOU CAN ENJOY A DRINK WHILE STUDYING YOUR MAP.

BY THE WAY, YOU CAN POP INTO A BUSINESS ANYWHERE --

PICK UP A CARD, THEY ALWAYS COME WITH A MAP

AND A PROMINENT "YOU ARE HERE."

SINCE THERE ARE NO REAL STREET NAMES,

YOU NAVIGATE BY LANDMARKS.

FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONAL ARROWS

OR SIMPLY ASK A LOCAL,

"DOV'è" -- THAT'S WHERE IS -- "SAN MARCO?"

"DOV'è RIALTO?"

THEY'LL POINT YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.

SCUSI SIGNORA, DOV'è SAN GIOVANNI E PAOLO?

[ CONVERSING IN ITALIAN ]

TUTTI... GRAZIE.

OKAY,GRAZIE.

CIAO.

WANDERING, YOU DISCOVER A DIFFERENT VENICE.

YOU MAY STUMBLE UPON SOME SHY GRANDEUR.

FIVE HUNDRED YEARS AGO, A BIG SHOT WITH SOME EXTRA CASH

DECIDED TO UPDATE HIS GOTHIC MANSION

WITH A RENAISSANCE SPIRAL STAIRCASE.

OVER THE CENTURIES,

THE HAPHAZARD COMMUNITY COALESCED.

BECAUSE NOBLES ORIGINALLY SETTLED

ON THEIR OWN LITTLE ISLANDS,

YOU'LL FIND PALACES AND DELIGHTFUL SQUARES

SCATTERED ALL OVER.

EVENTUALLY, ISLAND COMMUNITIES DECIDED TO JOIN,

OR LITERALLY BRIDGE, WITH OTHERS.

BUILDING BRIDGES REQUIRED SHORING UP THE CANALS.

LATER, PAVED CANAL-SIDE WALKS APPEARED.

WHILE PLENTY WET,

VENICE HAD NO NATURAL SOURCE OF DRINKING WATER.

BUT A THOUSAND YEAR AGO, RESIDENTS DEVISED A CLEVER WAY

OF USING TOWN SQUARES AS CISTERNS.

RAINWATER WOULD FLOW INTO THESE STONE GRILLS

AND THEN THROUGH A SAND FILTERING SYSTEM

AND ON TO THE MAIN WELL.

ONLY AFTER IT DEVISED THIS SAFE, LOCAL SOURCE OF DRINKING WATER

WAS VENICE'S POPULATION ABLE TO GROW.

HUNDREDS OF THESE RAIN COLLECTION SYSTEMS

PROVIDED DRINKING WATER

RIGHT UP UNTIL 1884, WHEN AN AQUEDUCT WAS OPENED,

BRINGING WATER IN FROM NEARBY MOUNTAINS.

THE CITY, WITH ITS PILINGS-IN-MUD FOUNDATION,

IS SLOWLY SINKING.

MANY GROUND FLOORS HAVE BEEN VACATED.

PONDERING THIS CHURCH'S FLOODED CRYPT,

YOU'LL APPRECIATE THE ONGOING STRUGGLE.

WHILE ACCELERATED BY A RISING SEA LEVEL

DUE TO GLOBAL CLIMATE CHANGE,

THIS HAS BEEN A CHALLENGE FOR CENTURIES.

WITH THE RIGHT COMBINATION OF HIGH TIDE,

WIND, AND BAROMETRIC PRESSURE, THE CITY FLOODS.

LOCALS ARE USED TO IT.

THEY PUT UP ELEVATED WALKWAYS, PULL ON THEIR RUBBER BOOTS,

AND LIFE GOES ON.

AND THE POPULATION OF VENICE IS SINKING, TOO.

WITH THE HIGH COST OF LIVING IN THE LAGOON

AND THE ALLURE OF A FASTER-PACED WORLD ON THE MAINLAND

WITH BETTER EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES,

YOUNG PEOPLE ARE LEAVING.

MORE AND MORE BUSINESSES ARE NOW RUN

BY IMMIGRANTS WHO COMMUTE IN FROM THE MAINLAND.

BUT IN ITS PRIME, PEOPLE CLAMORED TO LIVE IN VENICE.

IN THE MIDDLE AGES, MERCHANT COMMUNITIES FROM ALL OVER

THE MEDITERRANEAN WORLD ESTABLISHED A PRESENCE HERE

IN WHAT WAS THE TRADING CAPITAL OF EUROPE.

THIS WAS WHERE THE DALMATIAN COMMUNITY FROM CROATIA

MET TO WORSHIP AND PRESERVE THEIR CULTURE.

IT WAS ONE OF A SEVERAL SUCH COMMUNITY CENTERS

FOR VARIOUS ETHNIC GROUPS,

ALL PART OF THE COSMOPOLITAN MIX OF VENICE.

THE EXQUISITE WOOD-PANELED MEETING ROOM,

DECORATED WITH PAINTINGS BY CARPACCIO

FROM ABOUT THE YEAR 1500,

IS ONE OF THE FINEST RENAISSANCE INTERIORS IN VENICE.

SCENES THROUGHOUT TELL STORY OF ST. GEORGE,

THE DALMATIANS' PATRON SAINT.

HERE HE SLAYS A DRAGON

AND METAPHORICALLY CONQUERS PAGANISM.

GEORGE CHARGES FORWARD

AND SPEARS THE DRAGON IN THE HEAD,

TO THE RELIEF OF THE DAMSEL.

ST. GEORGE THEN LEADS THE BEDRAGGLED DRAGON,

SPEAR STILL IN HIS HEAD,

TO THE PAGAN KING AND QUEEN.

FINALLY, THE ROYAL COUPLE KNEELS BEFORE GEORGE

AS HE BAPTIZES THEM.

THE GREEKS LIVED AND WORKED NEARBY,

IN THE SHADOW OF THEIR CHURCH'S LEANING BELL TOWER.

STEPPING INSIDE, YOU STEP INTO YET ANOTHER CULTURE.

TO THIS DAY, THIS CHURCH SERVES THAT COMMUNITY.

ANOTHER PART OF VENICE'S DIVERSE POPULATION

WAS THE JEWISH COMMUNITY.

AND THE ORIGINAL GHETTO WAS HERE IN VENICE.

IN MEDIEVAL TIMES, JEWS,

WHO WERE THE MONEYLENDERS OF THE DAY,

WERE ALLOWED TO DO THEIR BUSINESS IN VENICE.

BUT THEY WERE SEGREGATED ON THIS EASY-TO-ISOLATE ISLAND

WHICH WAS A FORMER COPPER FOUNDRY.

IN FACT, THE TERM "GHETTO"

COMES FROM THE VENETIAN WORD FOR FOUNDRY.

THE ISLAND'S BRIDGES WERE LOCKED UP AT NIGHT.

AS THE POPULATION SWELLED IN THE 1600s,

THE GHETTO HAD TO EXPAND, BUT IT COULD ONLY GO UP.

THE RESULTING EIGHT-STORY BUILDINGS --

SKYSCRAPERS IN THEIR DAY -- SURVIVE.

TO GET A SENSE OF LIFE IN VENICE IN EARLIER TIMES,

HEAD TO THE ACCADEMIA,

THE BEST MUSEUM FOR VENETIAN RENAISSANCE PAINTING.

ART IS THE CLOSEST THING

TO A TIME TUNNEL EXPERIENCE IN OUR TRAVELS.

IT ENABLES YOU TO IMAGINE LIFE HERE CENTURIES AGO.

THE VENETIAN LOVE OF THE GOOD LIFE

SHOWS ITSELF IN VENETIAN PAINTING.

AND A PERFECT EXAMPLE --

PAOLO VERONESE'S "FEAST IN THE HOUSE OF LEVI."

IT'S A PARTY, AND YOU'RE INVITED!

EVERYONE'S LAVISHLY DRESSED.

CONVERSATION RAGES,

AND THERE'S PLENTY TO EAT AND DRINK.

IT'S TEXTBOOK VENETIAN --

BIG CANVAS, BRIGHT COLORS, RENAISSANCE ARCHITECTURE.

A SLICE OF LUXURIOUS VENETIAN LIFE.

THE ORIGINAL TITLE WAS "THE LAST SUPPER."

IT SHOWED JESUS AND HIS DISCIPLES SHARING A FINAL MEAL

BEFORE HIS CRUCIFIXION.

THE CHURCH CONSIDERED THIS TOO HEDONISTIC FOR A LAST SUPPER.

VERONESE WAS HAULED BEFORE THE INQUISITION,

AND TO SAVE HIS HIDE, AND THE PAINTING,

HE JUST RENAMED IT -- "FEAST OF THE HOUSE OF LEVI."

VENETIAN MASTERS PAINTED MORE REVERENT SCENES, AS WELL.

THIS SERENE "MADONNA ENTHRONED WITH CHILD AND SAINTS"

IS BY GIOVANNI BELLINI.

MARY AND BABY JESUS MEET WITH SAINTS,

ENGAGING IN A SACRED CONVERSATION,

WHILE MUSICIAN ANGELS JAM AT THEIR FEET.

THE PAINTING'S BELIEVABLE DEPTH GIVES US MORTALS

A CHANCE TO FEEL LIKE WE'RE PART OF THE SCENE,

WELCOME TO MINGLE WITH THE SAINTS.

PAINTINGS HERE SHOW HOW LITTLE VENICE HAS CHANGED

OVER THE CENTURIES.

THIS PROCESSION IN PIAZZA SAN MARCO,

PAINTED IN 1496,

HELPS US IMAGINE THE RITUAL

THAT CAME WITH VENETIAN SOCIETY.

ENJOY AN INTIMATE PEEK INTO LIFE HERE 500 YEARS AGO.

LINGER OVER THESE TIMELESS IMAGES,

THEN GET OUT AND EXPERIENCE THE REAL THING.

THE VENERABLE CAFFè FLORIAN,

ONE OF THE FIRST PLACES IN EUROPE TO SERVE COFFEE,

HAS BEEN THE PLACE

FOR A DISCREET RENDEZVOUS SINCE 1720.

TODAY, WHEN LOCALS WANT TO IMPRESS VISITORS,

THEY BRING THEM HERE FOR A DRINK.

IN THESE RICHLY DECORATED 18th CENTURY ROOMS,

CASANOVA, LORD BYRON, AND CHARLES DICKENS

HAVE ALL HAPPILY PAID TOO MUCH FOR THEIR COFFEE.

VENICE PEAKED IN THE 16th CENTURY,

BUT AFTER THE DISCOVERY OF AMERICA

AND NEW TRADE ROUTES OUTSIDE THE MEDITERRANEAN,

ITS POWER PLUMMETED.

AS VENICE FELL, ITS APPETITE FOR DECADENCE GREW.

THROUGH THE 17th AND 18th CENTURIES,

THE VENETIANS PARTIED AS IF DRUNK ON THE WEALTH ACCUMULATED

THROUGH EARLIER CENTURIES AS A TRADING POWER.

THE PALACE OF THE REZZONICO FAMILY,

OVERLOOKING THE GRAND CANAL,

IS VENICE'S MUSEUM OF THE 18th CENTURY,

AND AN IDEAL PLACE TO PONDER THE DECADENCE OF THAT AGE.

THE GRAND BALLROOM WAS DESIGNED WITH A CEILING

THAT OPENS UP INTO THE HEAVENS.

IMAGINE THE HOBKNOBBING HERE

AS VENETIAN SOCIETY GATHERED UNDER CANDLELIT CHANDELIERS.

THE 18th CENTURY WAS A TIME OF GREAT CHANGE.

THE NEW IDEAS AND INNOVATIONS OF THE ENLIGHTENMENT

SWEPT MORE ADAPTABLE SOCIETIES UPWARD

INTO A THRIVING NEW MODERN AGE.

MEANWHILE, A VENICE IN DENIAL DECLINED.

INSISTING IT REMAINED EXCEPTIONAL,

VENETIAN SOCIETY CHOSE TO DANCE RATHER THAN TO ADAPT.

PARTYGOERS REVEL BEHIND MASKS,

SCENES CASANOVA WOULD HAVE ENJOYED.

GENTLEMEN DRESSED TO THE MAX,

LADIES WITH POWDERED HAIR PILED HIGH.

AND EVERYONE USED A MASK

TO BE DEVILISHLY INCOGNITO.

DELIGHTFUL ROCOCO PORTRAITS BY THE FEMALE ARTIST

ROSALBA CARRIERA STOKED ARISTOCRATIC EGOS.

LUNGHI PAINTED WEALTHY FAMILY SCENES,

SHOWING A SOCIETY BORED

AND, IT SEEMS, WITH NO SHORTAGE OF LEISURE TIME.

AND LANDSCAPE PAINTERS LIKE CANALETTO CAPTURED

THE WONDER OF THE CITY WITH PAINTINGS THAT BECAME THE RAGE.

THESE SERVED AS SOUVENIRS FOR RICH TOURISTS

AFTER VENICE BECAME AN OBLIGATORY STOP

ON THE GRAND TOUR.

REMNANTS OF THE CITY'S DECADENT AGE OF DECLINE SURVIVE,

LIKE ITS MANY COLORFUL MASK SHOPS.

THESE PAPIER-MACHé VENETIAN ICONS,

WHICH YOU CAN SEE BEING MADE

AND ARTFULLY PAINTED IN SHOPS ALL AROUND TOWN,

GAVE WELL-BRED ARISTOCRATS ANONYMITY

DURING PARTY SEASONS LIKE CARNEVALE.

THROUGHOUT EUROPE, BUT ESPECIALLY HERE IN VENICE,

CARNIVAL PROVIDED A SAFETY VALVE

FOR PEOPLE TO REALLY CUT LOOSE BEFORE LENT,

A TIME OF AUSTERITY LEADING UP TO EASTER.

THAT'S WHEN RICH AND POOR ALIKE

ENJOYED A BURST OF MARDI GRAS-STYLE FUN --

WHEN ANYTHING GOES AND NOBODY KNOWS.

[ PLAYING "LARGO AL FACTOTUM" ]

AS LIFE GOT FRILLY, SO DID THE MUSIC.

THE MUSICA A PALAZZO

RECREATES A BAROQUE EVENING,

LETTING YOU BE A GUEST AT A NOBLE PALACE.

VENICE WAS HOME TO INFLUENTIAL COMPOSERS,

AND FOR TWO CENTURIES,

A FORCE IN THE WORLD OF OPERA.

TONIGHT, IT'S THE BARBER OF SEVILLE BY ROSSINI.

♪ FIGARO ♪

♪ FIGARO ♪

[ SINGING IN ITALIAN ]

Steves: THE PERFORMANCE -- THREE ACTS IN THREE DIFFERENT ROOMS --

IS PUNCTUATED BY SOCIAL TIME WITH PROSECCO.

[ SINGING IN ITALIAN ]

[ APPLAUSE ]

Steves: THE TRADITION OF CROWD-PLEASING MUSIC

CONTINUES EVERY NIGHT ON ST. MARK'S SQUARE,

WHERE CAFE ORCHESTRAS KEEP THAT UNIQUELY VENETIAN

DOLCE VITA GOING WELL AFTER DARK.

THIS SCENE EVOKES

THAT LAST CHAPTER IN THE VENETIAN REPUBLIC

WHEN IT MORPHED FROM A POWERHOUSE

TO A ROMANTIC TRAVELER'S DREAM COME TRUE.

IF ANY CITY IN EUROPE LETS US DON A MASK,

ESCAPE THE MODERN WORLD, AND JUST ENJOY A MAGIC MOMENT,

IT'S VENICE.

I HOPE YOU'VE ENJOYED OUR LOOK AT THIS GREAT CITY.

I'M RICK STEVES.

UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.

CIAO.

[ CONVERSING IS ITALIAN ]

OKAY.

BECAUSE IT WAS FOR S-S-- SAFETY.

SAFETY?

AH!

I'M SORRY.

CAN YOU POUR ME SOME WINE, PLEASE, SIR.

[ Laughing ] ABSOLUTELY.

VENETIAN SOCIETY CHOSE TO DANCE.

HEY, BABY!

YAY!

VENICE!

YEAH!