Paris: Embracing Life and Art

HI, I'M RICK STEVES,

BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

THIS TIME WE'RE IN A CITY

THAT PUTS THE SPARKLE IN LIFE LIKE NONE OTHER.

IT'S PARIS.

THANKS FOR JOINING US.

FEW CITIES HAVE SUCH A RICH ARTISTIC,

CULTURAL, AND HISTORIC HERITAGE,

AND FEW CITIES ARE SO CONFIDENT

IN THEIR EXPERTISE IN GOOD LIVING.

PARIS IS UNDERSTANDABLY A MECCA FOR PEOPLE

DETERMINED TO EMBRACE LIFE TO ITS FULLEST,

AND AS TRAVELERS, WE GET TO SHARE IN

THAT UNIQUELY PARISIAN JOIE DE VIVRE.

RETURNING FOR ANOTHER LOOK AT THIS GREAT CITY,

WE'LL DISCOVER A SIDE OF PARIS FEW TRAVELERS EXPERIENCE,

RIDE A UNICORN INTO THE MIDDLE AGES,

TAKE A MIDNIGHT PARISIAN JOYRIDE,

IMMERSE OURSELVES IN MONET'S GARDEN,

BASK IN HEAVENLY LIGHT THROUGH EXTRAORDINARY STAINED GLASS,

GO ON A TOMBSTONE PILGRIMAGE,

AND SAVOR THE PARISIAN CAFE SCENE.

GRAND AS THE CITY IS, AS WE'LL SEE,

IT'S STILL A COLLECTION OF SMALLER COMMUNITIES,

EACH WITH A CHARMING

AND UNIQUELY FRENCH WAY OF EMBRACING LIFE.

EVERY NEIGHBORHOOD HAS A TIME-HONORED GATHERING PLACE.

PETANQUE, ALSO KNOWN ASBOULES,

OFFERS THE PERFECT ESCAPE FOR FRIENDS.

THIS COMPETITIVE YET CONVIVIAL GAME,

WHERE FRIENDS TOSS METAL BALLS WITH THE SAME PRECISION

THEIR FATHERS DID, PROVIDES THE IDEAL ANTIDOTE

TO THE PRESSURES OF MODERN LIFE.

AH, THE RIVIERA -- ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER SEINE.

EACH SUMMER, THE PARIS CITY GOVERNMENT

CLOSES AN EXPRESSWAY AND BRINGS

A COLORFUL URBAN BEACH TO ITS PEOPLE.

THEY TRUCK IN POTTED PALM TREES,

HAMMOCKS, LOUNGE CHAIRS,

AND 2,000 TONS OF SAND TO CREATE THIS POPULAR FUN ZONE.

IT'S A PERFECT CHANCE TO SEE PARIS AT PLAY

AND PLAY WITH PARIS.

AWAY FROM THE RIVER,

PARKS PROVIDE ANOTHER PEACEFUL OASIS,

GREAT FOR ENJOYING THE MOMENT WITH FRIENDS AND FAMILY.

AND ON SUNDAYS, A HAPPY HORDE OF ROLLERBLADERS

GLIDE THROUGH TOWN WITH A POLICE ESCORT.

YOUNG, OLD, FAST OR SLOW,

IT'S ANOTHER WAY THIS CITY HAS BECOME

A PLAYGROUND FOR ITS CITIZENS.

AND PARIS IS NOW ENTHUSIASTICALLY BIKE-FRIENDLY.

BIKE LANES ARE COMMONPLACE,

AND BIKERS ARE WELCOME TO USE BUS LANES.

THE CITY'S INNOVATIVE LOANER BIKE PROGRAM,

WITH HUNDREDS OF THESE EFFICIENT BIKE RACKS,

LETS PARISIANS MAKE QUICK ONE-WAY BIKE TRIPS

RATHER THAN BOTHER WITH CARS OR BUSES.

THE COST?

ALMOST FREE.

HAVING ALL THIS FUN, IT'S EASY TO FORGET

THAT SIX CENTURIES AGO, PARIS WAS A CULTURAL LEADER

AS EUROPE WAS AWAKENING FROM A LONG MEDIEVAL SLUMBER.

JUST A COUPLE BLOCKS OFF THE RIVER,

THE CLUNY MUSEUM, FILLING A MEDIEVAL MANSION,

TAKES US BACK TO PARIS IN THE LATE MIDDLE AGES.

IN THE 1400s, TRADE WAS BEGINNING TO BOOM

AND THE RENAISSANCE WAS MOVING IN LIKE A WARM FRONT FROM ITALY.

THE CLUNY MUSEUM IS AN UNDER-APPRECIATED TREASURE.

ITS RICH COLLECTION OF MEDIEVAL ART

OFFERS A RARE PEEK INTO THAT MYSTERIOUS AGE.

THE SUMPTUOUS IVORY PIECES...

VIBRANT ENAMEL WORK...

AND GORGEOUS SCULPTURES REFLECT A SURPRISINGLY REFINED,

AND FAR FROM DARK, SOCIETY.

ITS CENTERPIECE IS A 15th-CENTURY

SERIES OF TAPESTRIES CALLED THE LADY AND THE UNICORN.

IN MEDIEVAL LORE, UNICORNS WERE SOLITARY CREATURES

THAT COULD ONLY BE TAMED BY A VIRGIN.

IN SECULAR SOCIETY, THEY SYMBOLIZED HOW A MAN

WAS DRAWN TO HIS LADY LOVE.

IN RELIGION, THE UNICORN WAS A SYMBOL OF CHRIST.

THESE EXQUISITE TAPESTRIES WERE INSPIRED BY

BOTH SECULAR AND RELIGIOUS TRADITIONS.

THEY GIVE US A PEEK AT LIFE, SENSUAL LIFE,

FROM A TIME WHEN THE PEOPLE OF PARIS WERE

JUST STEPPING OUT OF MEDIEVAL DARKNESS.

IT'S A CELEBRATION OF ALL THE SENSES.

TASTE.

A WOMAN TAKES CANDY FROM A SERVANT'S DISH

TO FEED IT TO HER PARAKEET

WHILE A LITTLE DOG LICKS HIS LOVINGLY WOVEN CHOPS.

HEARING.

AN ELEGANT WOMAN PLAYS SWEETLY ON AN ORGAN,

CALMING AN AUDIENCE OF WILD BEASTS.

IN THIS FANCIFUL WORLD, HUMANS AND THEIR FELLOW CREATURES

LIVE IN HARMONY IN AN ENCHANTED GARDEN.

SIGHT.

THE UNICORN CUDDLES UP AND LOOKS AT HIMSELF

IN THE LADY'S MIRROR, PLEASED WITH WHAT HE SEES.

THE LION TURNS AWAY AND SNICKERS.

AS THE RENAISSANCE DAWNS,

VANITY IS A LESS-THAN-DEADLY SIN.

TOUCH.

THAT'S THE MOST BASIC AND DANGEROUS OF THE SENSES.

HERE, THE LADY STROKES THE UNICORN'S HORN...

AND THE LION LOOKS OUT AT US

TO BE SURE WE GET THE DOUBLE ENTENDRE.

MEDIEVAL EUROPEANS WERE CELEBRATING

THE WONDERS OF LOVE AND THE PLEASURES OF SEX.

THE WORDS ON OUR LADY'S TENT READ,

"TO MY SOLE DESIRE."

WHAT IS HER ONLY DESIRE?

IS IT JEWELRY?

OR IS SHE PUTTING AWAY THE NECKLACE

AND RENOUNCING MATERIAL THINGS?

IS IT GOD?

LOVE?

THE UNICORN AND LION OPEN THE TENT.

IS SHE STEPPING OUT, OR GOING IN

TO MEET THE OBJECT OF HER DESIRE?

HUMAN SENSUALITY IS AWAKENING, A DARK AGE IS ENDING,

AND THE RENAISSANCE IS EMERGING.

ANOTHER REMINDER OF THE SOPHISTICATION

OF THE MIDDLE AGES WAS THE ART OF STAINED GLASS.

TO SEE THE BEST OF 13th-CENTURY GLASS

IN ITS GLORIOUS ORIGINAL SETTING,

VISIT THE NEARBY CHURCH OF SAINTE-CHAPELLE.

EMBEDDED IN A HISTORIC COMPLEX OF GOVERNMENTAL BUILDINGS,

THE CHURCH'S MUSCULAR GOTHIC BUTTRESSES

SUPPORT THE STONE ROOF.

THE WALLS ARE ESSENTIALLY WINDOW HOLDERS

FOR THE CHURCH'S STAINED GLASS.

STEPPING INSIDE, YOU'RE OVERWHELMED BY

THE MOST DAZZLING GOTHIC INTERIOR ANYWHERE.

IN THE BIBLE, IT'S CLEAR -- LIGHT IS DIVINE.

LET THERE BE LIGHT.

IN A GOTHIC CHURCH,

LIGHT POURS THROUGH STAINED GLASS

LIKE GOD'S GRACE SHINING DOWN ON EARTH.

GOTHIC ARCHITECTS USED THEIR NEW TECHNOLOGY

TO TURN DARK STONE BUILDINGS INTO LANTERNS OF LIGHT.

IN THE 13th CENTURY, KING LOUIS IX

OBTAINED THE SUPPOSED CROWN OF THORNS.

HE NEEDED AN APPROPRIATE PLACE TO HOUSE THE PRECIOUS RELIC,

SO THEY SCRAMBLED AND BUILT THIS CHURCH IN JUST SIX YEARS.

BECAUSE IT WAS BUILT SO QUICKLY --

ONE ARCHITECT AND ONE SET OF PLANS,

ALMOST UNHEARD OF IN GOTHIC TIMES --

THE ARCHITECTURE IS UNUSUALLY HARMONIOUS.

THE ALTAR WAS RAISED UP HIGH

TO BETTER DISPLAY THE CROWN OF THORNS.

FILLING THE WALLS ON ALL FOUR SIDES,

THE 15 STORY-TELLING PANELS ILLUSTRATE BIBLE PASSAGES

FROM CREATION IN GENESIS TO THE STORY OF CHRIST.

REMARKABLY, MOST OF THE STAINED GLASS HERE IS ORIGINAL.

WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING AT IS EXACTLY WHAT VISITORS

HAVE MARVELLED AT FOR EIGHT CENTURIES.

FOR A STARK CONTRAST IN GLASS, HEAD OUT TO TO LA DEFENSE,

A FOREST OF SKYSCRAPERS

NICKNAMED "PARIS'S PETITE MANHATTAN."

SO OFTEN, WE TRAVELERS ONLY HANG OUT

IN THE HISTORIC OLD QUARTERS OF EUROPE'S GREAT CITIES.

TO SEE THE CONTEMPORARY SIDE OF PARIS,

A CELEBRATION OF MODERN COMMERCE,

HOP ON THE METRO AND VISIT LA DEFENSE.

WITH ITS STRIKING ARCHITECTURE,

150,000 PEOPLE A DAY COMMUTING HERE TO WORK,

AND EVEN MORE TO SHOP AND PLAY,

IT'S THE ENGINE OF A MODERN-DAY ECONOMIC POWER.

STROLL THE ESPLANADE.

THE GLASSY BUILDINGS, WHICH HOUSE SHOPPING MALLS

WITH HUNDREDS OF STORES, CONVENTION CENTERS,

AND TOWERING CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS,

PLAYFULLY COMPETE FOR YOUR ATTENTION.

WITH THE SOCIAL ETHIC EMBRACED BY FRENCH SOCIETY,

GETTING A BUILDING PERMIT OFTEN COMES WITH

A REQUIREMENT TO FUND PUBLIC ART.

THAT'S WHY THE LA DEFENSE ESPLANADE IS LIKE

AN OPEN-AIR MODERN ART GALLERY,

SPORTING PIECES THAT MAKE GOING TO WORK

JUST A LITTLE MORE FUN.

LA GRANDE ARCHE, INAUGURATED IN 1989

ON THE 200th ANNIVERSARY OF THE FRENCH REVOLUTION,

IS THE CENTERPIECE OF THIS AMBITIOUS COMPLEX.

THE ARCH IS BIG.

NOTRE DAME CATHEDRAL COULD FIT UNDER IT.

THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE WORK IN ITS 35 STORIES.

AND, AS EVERYWHERE HERE,

THE ARCHITECTURE IS PEOPLE-FRIENDLY.

BACK IN THE OLD CENTER, IT'S TIME FOR A LITTLE SHOPPING.

PARIS IS A LEADER IN THE FASHION WORLD,

FAMOUS FOR ITS HIGH-END DESIGN.

MY PARISIAN FRIEND, DELPHINE PRIGENT,

IS SHOWING ME HOW EVEN WINDOW SHOPPING SOME OF PARIS'S

MANY FINE BOUTIQUES CAN BE A CULTURAL EXPERIENCE.

THESE WINDOWS -- THEY PUT SO MUCH ENERGY INTO THEIR WINDOWS.

YES, THEY HAVE TO, BECAUSE, YOU KNOW, LIKE,

SHOPPING IS A NATIONAL SPORT IN FRANCE,

AND WE CALL IT LECHE-VITRINE.

SO LECHE-VITRINE MEANS "WINDOW-LICKING."

WINDOW-LICKING.

SEE ALL THESE

DIFFERENT DETAILS THAT THEY PUT IN THE WINDOW.

IT'S VERY BRIGHT, VERY COLORFUL.

VERY APPETIZING, YOU COULD SAY.

YES.

IT HAS TO BE VERY APPETIZING, YES.

Steves: THERE ARE A LOT OF SALES.

YES, THIS IS A TYPICAL PERIOD, IN JULY,

TO GET SALES IN PARIS, BUT THE TRAP

IS THAT WHEN YOU GO INSIDE, YOU'LL ALWAYS FINISH

BY BUYING THE NEW COLLECTION, BECAUSE THEY PUT

THE NEW COLLECTION JUST BESIDE.

YOU ALWAYS BUY SOMETHING FROM

THE NEW COLLECTION AT FULL PRICE.

Steves: SO THE SALE CATCHES YOU INSIDE,

AND THEN YOU BUY THE NEW COLLECTION.

YES.

Steves: DEPARTMENT STORES WERE INVENTED IN PARIS.

THESE VENERABLE INSTITUTIONS,

BEAUTIFUL MONUMENTS TO FINE LIVING,

OFFER A CHANCE TO CHECK OUT WHAT'S IN VOGUE.

THE GALERIES LAFAYETTE IS A CLASSIC EXAMPLE.

ITS BELLE EPOQUE DOME DATES TO 1912,

AND SHOPPERS ARE WELCOME TO CATCH THEIR BREATH,

OR PERHAPS HAVE IT TAKEN AWAY, ON THE STORE'S ROOFTOP,

WHERE A GRAND CITY VIEW AWAITS.

YOU CAN ENJOY ANOTHER DELIGHTFUL DIMENSION OF PARIS

IN ITS PARKS.

THERE'S ALWAYS A GARDEN OR PARK NEARBY

OFFERING A FINE PLACE TO STROLL AND SIMPLY ENJOY

A QUIET MOMENT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CITY.

ONE OF THE BIGGEST CITY PARKS ORIGINATED AS

THE KING'S BACKYARD -- THE TUILERIES GARDENS.

THE KING'S YARD INCLUDED AN INDOOR GARDEN

CALLED THE ORANGERIE.

WHILE THE ORANGERIE NO LONGER CONTAINS PLANTS,

TODAY IT'S FILLED WITH A GARDEN OF IMPRESSIONIST

AND EARLY-20th-CENTURY PAINTINGS --

SELECT WORKS BY RENOIR...

CEZANNE...

GAUGIN...

AND OTHERS.

AND ITS MAIN ATTRACTION IS MONET'SWATER LILIES,

FLOATING DREAMILY IN THE OVAL ROOMS

THE ARTIST HIMSELF DESIGNED

TO SHOWCASE HIS MASTERPIECE.

THIS SERIES OF EXPANSIVE, CURVED PANELS

IS THE EPITOME OF IMPRESSIONISM.

IT IMMERSES YOU IN MONET'S GARDEN AT GIVERNY,

HIS HOME AND STUDIO OUTSIDE OF PARIS.

LIKE AN AGING BEETHOVEN, WHO COMPOSED

HIS MOST DRAMATIC WORKS WHILE LOSING HIS HEARING,

THE NEARLY BLIND CLAUDE MONET SPENT HIS FINAL YEARS

PAINTING THESE SYMPHONIES OF COLOR

ON A SIMILARLY MONUMENTAL SCALE.

WE'RE LOOKING INTO HIS POND, DOTTED WITH WATER LILIES

AND DAPPLED BY THE REFLECTIONS OF THE SKY,

CLOUDS, AND TREES ON THE SURFACE.

MONET MINGLES THE POND'S MANY ELEMENTS

AND THEN LETS US SORT IT OUT.

THE TRUE SUBJECT OF THESE WORKS IS NOT THE POND ITSELF.

IT'S THE PLAY OF THE LIGHT REFLECTING OFF THE WATER.

MONET WOULD WORK ON SEVERAL CANVASES AT THE SAME TIME,

EACH ONE CATCHING THE LIGHT OF A PARTICULAR TIME OF DAY.

GET CLOSE AND SEE HOW MONET WORKED.

STARTING FROM A BLANK CANVAS,

HE'D LAY DOWN THICK, BIG BRUSHSTROKES

OF A SINGLE COLOR, HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL,

TO CREATE A DENSE MESH OF FOLIAGE.

OVER THIS, HE'D ADD MORE COLOR

FOR THE DRAMATIC HIGHLIGHTS

UNTIL HE GOT A DENSE PASTE OF PILED-UP PAINT.

UP CLOSE, IT'S MESSY, BUT BACK UP,

AND THE COLORS RESOLVE INTO A LUMINOUS SCENE --

JUST PURE REFLECTED COLOR.

WORKING, HE'D MOVE WITH THE SUN FROM ONE CANVAS TO THE NEXT.

PANNING SLOWLY AROUND THIS HALL, YOU SEE THE POND

TURN FROM PRE-DAWN DARKNESS TO CLEAR MORNING LIGHT

TO LAVENDER LATE AFTERNOON TO GLORIOUS SUNSET.

SUBLIME AND TRANQUIL,

MONET INTENDED THIS TO BE A PLACE OF REFLECTION.

BACK WHEN MONET WAS PAINTING,

PARIS WAS BUSY WITH ARTISTS.

CAPTURING THE LIGHT -- THAT WAS THEIR PASSION,

AND WANDERING THESE ELEGANT STREETS

AND INVITING PARKS, IT'S EASY TO IMAGINE THEM

GAINING INSPIRATION HERE IN PARIS,

NICKNAMED THE "CITY OF LIGHT."

A SHORT WALK TAKES US TO THE PALATIAL MANSION,

STUDIO, AND GARDEN OF

ANOTHER GREAT IMPRESSIONIST -- AUGUSTE RODIN.

RODIN WAS A MODERN MICHELANGELO,

SCULPTING HUMAN FIGURES WITH POWERFUL INSIGHT,

REVEALING THROUGH THE BODY THEIR DEEPEST EMOTIONS.

NOW A MUSEUM, THIS HISTORIC MANSION

PRESENTS THE FULL RANGE OF RODIN'S WORK.

HIS EARLY WORKS MATCH THE BELLE EPOQUE STYLE

OF THE LATE 19th CENTURY --

NOBLE BUSTS OF BOURGEOIS CITIZENS

AND PRETTY PORTRAITS OF THEIR DAUGHTERS.

BUT RODIN HAD WORKING-CLASS ROOTS,

AND BECAUSE OF HIS POPULIST SENTIMENTS,

THE ART ESTABLISHMENT SNUBBED HIM.

THAT'S NO WONDER.

LOOK AT THE INTENSITY OF THIS SYMBOL OF FRANCE

AS SHE SCREAMS,"LIBERTIE, EGALITIE, FRATERNITIE!"

WITH HIS GROUND-BREAKING BRONZE MAN,

RODIN CAME INTO HIS OWN

AND WAS RECOGNIZED AS AN ARTISTIC FORCE.

FROM THIS POINT ON, HE LEFT CONVENTION BEHIND

AND BLAZED HIS OWN ARTISTIC TRAIL.

HERE, HIS HAND OF GOD SHAPES ADAM AND EVE

FROM THE MUD OF THE EARTH TO WHICH THEY WILL RETURN.

UNLIKE MICHELANGELO, WHO SELECTED A PIECE OF MARBLE

AND THEN CARVED A SINGLE WORK OF ART,

RODIN CREATED MODELS WHICH COULD THEN BE REPRODUCED

AND SOLD AS AUTHORIZED VERSIONS.

IN THE KISS, A PASSIONATE WOMAN TWINES AROUND

A SOLID MAN FOR THEIR FIRST, SPONTANEOUS KISS.

WE CAN ALMOST READ THE EMOTIONS

THAT LED UP TO THIS MEETING OF LIPS.

THE KISS WAS THE FIRST RODIN WORK THE PUBLIC LOVED.

RODIN ENJOYED HIS GARDEN, AS DO VISITORS TODAY,

WHO FIND IT A PLACE FOR PEACEFUL MEDITATION

A CENTURY AFTER THE ARTIST LAST PLANTED A STATUE HERE.

HE SCULPTED THE FAMOUS THINKER IN 1906.

LEANING SLIGHTLY FORWARD,

TENSE AND COMPACT, EVERY MUSCLE WORKING TOWARD

PRODUCING THAT ONE GREAT THOUGHT,

MAN CONTEMPLATES HIS FATE.

SAID RODIN, "IT IS A STATUE OF MYSELF."

SPEAKING OF CONTEMPLATION,

I PUNCTUATE MY MUSEUM-GOING WITH A LITTLE CAFE SITTING.

THIS MAKES PARTICULARLY GOOD SENSE IN PARIS,

HOME OF SO MUCH BEAUTIFUL ART AND THE ULTIMATE CAFE CULTURE.

WITH OVER 12,000 CAFES, THERE'S ALWAYS ONE NEARBY.

CAFES ARE WHERE FRIENDS RENDEZVOUS,

AND WE'RE MEETING UP WITH STEVE SMITH,

CO-AUTHOR OF MY FRANCE GUIDEBOOK AND A CONSUMMATE CAFE SITTER.

YOU KNOW, CAFE -- THAT'S A TIP IN ITSELF, ISN'T IT?

JUST CAFE IN PARIS.

Smith: IT IS, IT'S A GOOD TIP.

IT'S A PLACE TO ORDER WHAT YOU WANT WHEN YOU WANT

ON YOUR OWN TERMS AND YOUR OWN TIME, REALLY.

YOU COULD BE INDOORS AT A RESTAURANT

WATCHING THE PERSON NEXT TO YOU EAT

OR OUT HERE WATCHING THE CONVEYOR BELT

OF PARISIANS GO BY.

AND YOU'RE LIVING WITH PARISIANS.

IN FACT, IT'S THEIR LIVING ROOM.

YOU KNOW, MOST PARISIANS' APARTMENTS

ARE A LITTLE BIT BIGGER THAN YOUR HOTEL ROOM.

SO HALF THE LOCALS HERE

ARE PROBABLY LIVING DOWN THE STREET.

ALMOST ALL OF THEM WHO COME HERE COME HERE ON A REGULAR BASIS,

AND THEY'RE ON A FIRST-NAME BASIS WITH THEIR WAITER.

SO A LOT OF AMERICANS

FIND TIPPING A LITTLE BIT CONFUSING.

IN FRANCE, THE WAITER'S TIP IS INCLUDED.

15% OF YOUR BILL GOES TO THE WAITER.

YOU'VE ALREADY PAID IT.

TAX AND TIP ARE INCLUDED.

WHAT DO YOU DO, THEN?

IF YOUR WAITER WAS NICE TO YOU,

OR YOUR WAITRESS, LEAVE A COUPLE EUROS.

THAT'S VERY POLITE.

ROUND UP.

IF YOUR BILL WAS 18 EUROS, LEAVE 20, SOMETHING LIKE THAT.

OKAY.

NOW, A LOT OF AMERICANS ARE FRUSTRATED

BY WHAT THEY CALL SLOW SERVICE.

YEAH, I HEAR THAT ALL THE TIME.

IN FRANCE, SLOW SERVICE IS GOOD SERVICE.

IT'S GOOD SERVICE.

REMEMBER, IT'S NOT ABOUT HOW FAST YOU EAT.

IT'S ABOUT HOW WELL YOU EAT.

Steves: WHILE THE METRO IS GREAT

AND PROBABLY THE QUICKEST WAY TO GET AROUND,

THERE'S A LOT TO BE SAID FOR JOY RIDING ACROSS THIS EXCITING CITY

ABOVE GROUND.

PARIS' BUSES ARE PLENTIFUL, CHEAP, AND EFFICIENT

ONCE YOU GET THE HANG OF THEM, AND BUS 69 WINDS,

AS IF MADE FOR TOURISTS,

PAST THE CITY'S TOP SIGHTS.

THE END OF THE LINE -- THE PERE LACHAISE CEMETERY.

IT OFFERS A STROLL THROUGH A VAST GARDEN OF

PERMANENT PARISIANS.

THE FINAL RESTING PLACE OF MANY OF THE CITY'S

MOST NOTABLE CITIZENS, ITS PEACEFUL LANES AND PATHS

ENCOURAGE MEANDERING AND CONTEMPLATION.

POIGNANT STATUES REMEMBER VICTIMS OF CONCENTRATION CAMPS

AND NAZI RESISTANCE HEROES.

PEBBLES ON THE JEWISH TOMBSTONES REPRESENT PRAYERS.

MANY VISITORS PICK UP A MAP

AND TURN THE VISIT INTO A PERSONAL PILGRIMAGE,

SPENDING A FEW MOMENTS AT THE GRAVESIDE OF ARTISTS

OR GRAND PERSONALITIES WHO TOUCHED THEIR LIVES.

OSCAR WILDE, A GREAT WRITER,

IS ALSO REMEMBERED FOR HIS DARING-AT-THE-TIME

HOMOSEXUAL LIFESTYLE.

HE'S MOURNED BY "OUTCAST MEN," AS THE INSCRIPTION READS,

AND, IT SEEMS, BY WEARERS OF HEAVY LIPSTICK.

THE FAMOUS PARISIAN SINGER EDITH PIAF ALSO ATTRACTS FANS.

RAISED IN HER GRANDMOTHER'S BORDELLO,

AS A WAIF-LIKE TEENAGER,

SHE SANG IN THE STREETS FOR SPARE CHANGE.

NICKNAMED "THE LITTLE SPARROW",

SHE BECAME THE TOAST OF PRE-WORLD WAR II PARIS,

LIFTED FRENCH SPIRITS DURING THE GERMAN OCCUPATION,

AND THEN CAPTURED THE JOY OF POST-WAR PARIS.

WHILE SHE CERTAINLY HAD HER CHALLENGES,

EDITH PIAF EMBRACED LIFE

AND SANG ABOUT HAVING NO REGRETS.

FARTHER DOWN THE WAY LIES A FAMOUS AMERICAN.

THE ROCK STAR JIM MORRISON, LEAD SINGER OF THE DOORS,

HAS PERHAPS THE MOST-VISITED TOMB IN THE CEMETERY.

A GREEK INSCRIPTION READS,

"TO THE SPIRIT, OR DEMON, WITHIN."

UNDER THAT, FANS LEAVE PERSONAL MEMENTOS.

PARIS WAS JIM MORRISON'S CHANCE TO GET HEALTHY

AND GET SERIOUS AS A WRITER, BUT HE DIED IN A BATHTUB

AT AGE 27, PROBABLY FROM AN OVERDOSE.

ANOTHER BIG STAR FOR MUSIC LOVERS IS FREDERIC CHOPIN.

FRESH-CUT FLOWERS ON HIS GRAVESTONE SPEAK TO

THE EMOTIONAL STAYING POWER OF CHOPIN'S MUSIC,

WHICH STILL CONNECTS SOULS

ACROSS THE CENTURIES.

FOR A MORE LIVELY WAY TO ENJOY PARIS AND CAP AN EXCITING DAY,

STEVE AND I HAVE HIRED A CAR AND DRIVER

FOR A BLITZ OF THE CITY'S BEST NIGHTTIME VIEWS.

AND THIS ISN'T JUST ANY CAR AND DRIVER.

THIS COMPANY EMPLOYS A FLEET OF HISTORIC DEUX CHEVEAUX CARS,

AND THEY'RE DRIVEN BY LOCAL STUDENTS.

Driver: THE DIFFERENT DISTRICTS ARE

LIKE A SNAIL GOING AROUND THE ISLAND DE LA CITE.

Steves: THE FRENCH RAISE FLOODLIGHTING TO AN ART FORM.

AND WITH A CITY AS BEAUTIFUL AS PARIS,

IT'S NO WONDER.

LES INVALIDES, WITH ITS GILDED DOME

MARKING NAPOLEON'S TOMB, ISMAGNIFIQUE.

THE NAUGHTY BLADES OF THE MOULIN ROUGE

KEEP TURNING AS RED LIGHTS TEMPT LOST SOULS IN PIGALLE.

JUST TO BE OUT AND ABOUT AT THIS HOUR,

THE ENERGY OF THE CITY IS PALPABLE.

NOTRE DAME IS PARTICULARLY STATELY AFTER DARK.

SIGHTSEEING BOATS ENLIVEN THE RIVER

AND ITS SPARKLING BRIDGES.

THE PYRAMID AT THE LOUVRE GLOWS FROM WITHIN.

AND THE EIFFEL TOWER PROVIDES A FITTING FINALE

FOR THIS VICTORY LAP THROUGH THE CITY OF LIGHT.

TRAVELING HERE, I REALIZE I COULD COME BACK TO THIS CITY

FOR THE REST OF MY LIFE AND NEVER GET ENOUGH

OF WHAT TO ME IS THE CAPITAL OF EUROPE -- PARIS.

I'M RICK STEVES.

UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.

AU REVOIR.

CHARLEMAGNE.

CHARLES THE BIG ONE.

OH, YEAH.

THE GREATEST RULER OF THE 9th CENTURY.

THE TRUE SUBJECT OF THESE WORKS IS NOT THE --

THE TRUE SUBJECT OF THESE WORKS IS NOT THE POND ITSELF.

MONET WOULD WORK ON SEVERAL CANVASES AT THE SAME TIME.

EACH ONE --

IN A LOT OF WAYS, THE FATHER OF EUROPE.

MAKING THESE SYMPHONIES OF COLOR ON A SIMILARLY...

MONUMENTAL SCALE.