Northern Spain and the Camino De Santiago

HI, I'M RICK STEVES,

BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.

THIS TIME WE'RE ALL GETTING PUMPED UP

TO RUN WITH THE BULLS IN PAMPLONA,

AND IF I SURVIVE THAT, WE'LL JOIN THE PILGRIMS,

GRATEFULLY, AS THEY HIKE TO SANTIAGO IN NORTHWEST SPAIN.

THANKS FOR JOINING US.

THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO --

LITERALLY THE "WAY OF ST. JAMES" --

IS EUROPE'S ULTIMATE PILGRIMAGE ROUTE.

SINCE THE MIDDLE AGES, PILGRIMS HAVE WALKED HUNDREDS OF MILES

ACROSS NORTH SPAIN TO PAY HOMAGE TO THE REMAINS OF ST. JAMES

IN THE CITY NAMED FOR HIM, SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA.

IN OUR GENERATION, THE ROUTE'S BEEN REDISCOVERED,

AND MORE AND MORE PILGRIMS ARE TRAVELING THIS ANCIENT PATHWAY.

IN THIS EPISODE, WE'LL ENJOY A RAUCOUS FESTIVAL,

SURVIVE A STAMPEDE,

WITNESS DRAMA IN THE ARENA,

JOIN PILGRIMS AS THEY TREK ACROSS SPAIN,

PONDER MAGNIFICENT ROMANESQUE ART,

ATTEND A SWINGIN' MASS,

AND SHARE IN THE JUBILATION OF A PILGRIMAGE COMPLETED.

DURING MEDIEVAL TIMES, SPAIN BECAME AN IMPORTANT

PILGRIMAGE DESTINATION.

PILGRIMS FROM ALL OVER EUROPE

JOURNEYED TO SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

IN THE NORTHWEST OF SPAIN.

WE'LL JOIN THE MAIN ROUTE, STARTING IN THE PYRENEES

AT ST. JEAN-PIED-DE-PORT, STOPPING AT PAMPLONA,

BURGOS, LEON, AND ON THROUGH THE REGION OF GALICIA

TO SANTIAGO.

WHILE DEDICATING A MONTH OF YOUR LIFE TO WALK THE CAMINO

MAY BE ADMIRABLE, IT DOESN'T WORK FOR EVERYONE.

BUT ANY TRAVELER CAN USE THIS ROUTE AS A SIGHTSEEING SPINE

AND AS AN OPPORTUNITY TO APPRECIATE SOME OF

THE JOYS AND LESSONS THAT COME WITH BEING A PILGRIM.

JUST FIVE MILES BEFORE THE SPANISH BORDER

STANDS THE FRENCH BASQUE TOWN OF ST. JEAN-PIED-DE-PORT.

TRADITIONALLY, SANTIAGO-BOUND PILGRIMS WOULD GATHER HERE

TO CROSS THE PYRENEES

AND CONTINUE THEIR MARCH THROUGH SPAIN.

VISITORS TO THIS POPULAR TOWN ARE

A MIX OF TOURISTS AND PILGRIMS.

AT THE CAMINO OFFICE,

PILGRIMS CHECK IN BEFORE THEIR LONG JOURNEY TO SANTIAGO.

THEY PICK UP A KIND OF PILGRIM'S PASSPORT.

THEY'LL GET IT STAMPED AT EACH STOP

TO PROVE THEY WALKED THE WHOLE WAY

AND EARNED THEIR COMPOSTELA CERTIFICATE.

WALKING THE ENTIRE 500-MILE-LONG ROUTE

TAKES ABOUT FIVE WEEKS.

THAT'S ABOUT 15 MILES A DAY,

WITH AN OCCASIONAL DAY OF REST.

THE ROUTE IS WELL-MARKED

WITH YELLOW ARROWS AND SCALLOP SHELLS.

THE SCALLOP SHELL IS THE SYMBOL OF

BOTH ST. JAMES AND THE CAMINO.

COMMON ON THE GALICIAN COAST,

THE SHELLS WERE WORN BY MEDIEVAL PILGRIMS AS

A BADGE OF HONOR TO PROVE THEY MADE IT.

THE TRADITIONAL GEAR HAS BARELY CHANGED --

A GOURD FOR DRINKING WATER, JUST THE RIGHT WALKING STICK,

AND A SCALLOP SHELL DANGLING FROM EACH BACKPACK.

PAMPLONA, THE HISTORIC CAPITAL OF THE PROVINCE OF NAVARRE,

WITH ITS IMPOSING RAMPARTS,

IS THE FIRST MAJOR CITY PILGRIMS ENCOUNTER.

TRADITIONALLY, THEY ENTER THE CITY THROUGH THIS GATE.

AT ITS PEAK IN THE MIDDLE AGES, NAVARRE WAS A GRAND KINGDOM

THAT CONTROLLED PARTS OF TODAY'S SPAIN AND FRANCE.

TODAY PAMPLONA HAS A DISTINCT ENERGY,

WITH ITS RICH TRADITIONS AND FAMOUS FESTIVAL.

WE'RE HERE IN EARLY JULY FOR THE FESTIVAL OF SAN FERMIN,

AND THAT MEANS THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS,

ONE OF EUROPE'S MOST EXUBERANT FESTIVALS.

FOR NINE DAYS EACH JULY, THRONGS OF VISITORS --

MOST DRESSED IN THE TRADITIONAL WHITE

WITH RED SASHES AND KERCHIEFS --

COME TO RUN WITH THE BULLS AND A WHOLE LOT MORE.

THE FESTIVAL, WHICH PACKS THIS CITY, HAS DEEP ROOTS.

FOR CENTURIES, THE PEOPLE OF THIS REGION HAVE HONORED

ST. FERMIN, THEIR PATRON SAINT,

WITH PROCESSIONS AND PARTIES.

HE WAS DECAPITATED IN THE 2nd CENTURY FOR HIS FAITH,

AND THE RED BANDANAS YOU SEE EVERYWHERE

ARE A DISTANT REMINDER OF HIS MARTYRDOM.

AND, YOU KNOW, I DON'T THINK ANYBODY ON THIS SQUARE KNOWS

OR EVEN CARES.

BUT AT THE CHURCH OF SAN FERMIN, IT'S A CAPACITY CROWD,

AND THERE'S NO QUESTION WHAT TO WEAR FOR THIS MASS.

TO THIS DAY,

LOCALS LOOK TO THEIR HOMETOWN SAINT FOR PROTECTION.

BACK OUT ON THE STREETS, IT'S A PARTY FOR YOUNG AND OLD.

THERE'S PLENTY OF FUN FOR KIDS,

AND TOWERING GIANTS ADD A PLAYFUL MYSTIQUE

TO THE FESTIVITIES.

[ APPLAUSE ]

THE LITERARY GIANT, ERNEST HEMINGWAY,

IS CELEBRATED BY PAMPLONA AS IF HE WERE A NATIVE SON.

HEMINGWAY FIRST CAME HERE FOR THE 1923 RUNNING OF THE BULLS.

INSPIRED BY THE SPECTACLE, HE LATER WROTE

HIS BULLFIGHTING CLASSIC "THE SUN ALSO RISES."

HE SAID HE ENJOYED SEEING TWO WILD ANIMALS RUNNING TOGETHER --

ONE ON TWO LEGS, AND THE OTHER ON FOUR.

HEMINGWAY PUT PAMPLONA ON THE WORLD MAP.

WHEN HE FIRST VISITED, IT WAS A DUSTY TOWN OF 30,000

WITH AN OBSCURE BULLFIGHTING FESTIVAL.

NOW, A MILLION PEOPLE A YEAR COME HERE

FOR ONE OF THE WORLD'S GREAT PARTIES.

AFTER DARK, THE TOWN ERUPTS INTO A ROLLICKING PARTY SCENE.

WHILE THE CRAZINESS RAGES DAY AND NIGHT,

THE CITY'S WELL ORGANIZED,

AND EVEN WITH ALL THE ALCOHOL,

IT FEELS IN CONTROL, AND THINGS GO SMOOTHLY.

AMAZINGLY, IN JUST A FEW HOURS,

THIS SAME STREET WILL HOST A VERY DIFFERENT SPECTACLE.

THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS TAKES PLACE EARLY EACH MORNING.

SPECTATORS CLAIM A VANTAGE POINT

ALONG THE BARRIER AT THE CRACK OF DAWN.

EARLY IN THE MORNING?

NOPE --

FOR MANY OF THESE REVELERS, IT'S STILL LATE AT NIGHT.

THE ANTICIPATION ITSELF IS THRILLING.

SECURITY CREWS SWEEP THOSE NOT RUNNING

OUT OF THE WAY.

SHOP WINDOWS AND DOORS ARE BOARDED UP.

FENCING IS SET UP TO KEEP THE BULLS ON COURSE

AND PROTECT THE CROWD.

THE RUNNERS ARE CALLED MOZOS.

WHILE MANY ARE JUST FINISHING UP A NIGHT OF DRINKING,

OTHERS TRAIN FOR THE EVENT.

THEY TAKE THE RITUAL SERIOUSLY AND RUN EVERY YEAR.

AT 8:00, A ROCKET IS FIRED, AND THE MOZOS TAKE OFF.

MOMENTS LATER,

A SECOND ROCKET MEANS THE BULLS HAVE BEEN RELEASED.

THEY STAMPEDE HALF A MILE THROUGH THE TOWN

FROM THEIR PENS TO THE BULL-FIGHTING ARENA.

AT FULL GALLOP, IT GOES BY FAST.

BULLS THUNDER THROUGH THE ENTIRE ROUTE

IN JUST TWO AND A HALF MINUTES.

THE MOZOS TRY TO RUN IN FRONT OF THE BULLS

FOR AS LONG AS POSSIBLE, USUALLY JUST A FEW SECONDS,

BEFORE DIVING OUT OF THE WAY.

THEY SAY ON A GOOD RUN YOU FEEL THE BREATH OF THE BULL

ON THE BACK OF YOUR LEGS.

CRUEL AS THIS ALL SEEMS FOR THE BULLS,

WHO SCRAMBLE FOR FOOTING ON THE COBBLESTONES

AS THEY RUSH TOWARD THEIR DOOM IN THE BULLRING,

THE HUMAN PARTICIPANTS DON'T COME OUT UNSCATHED.

EACH YEAR, DOZENS OF PEOPLE ARE GORED OR TRAMPLED.

OVER THE LAST CENTURY, 15 MOZOS HAVE BEEN KILLED AT THE EVENT.

AFTER IT'S DONE, PEOPLE GATHER FOR BREAKFAST

AND REVIEW THE HIGHLIGHTS ON TV.

ALL DAY LONG, LOCAL CHANNELS REPLAY THAT MORNING'S SPECTACLE.

OH!

OH!

OH!

OH!

OH!

OH!

[ CROWD APPLAUDING ]

THE FINALE OF THE EVENT EACH DAY IS IN THE EVENING

WHEN CROWDS FILL THE BULL RING.

PAMPLONA'S ARENA, THE THIRD-BIGGEST IN THE WORLD

AFTER MADRID AND MEXICO CITY,

IS SOLD OUT EACH DAY OF THE FESTIVAL.

ONE BY ONE, THE BULLS THAT RAN THAT MORNING

EXPLODE OUT OF THE GATE TO MEET THEIR MATADOR.

FIRST THE PICADORES.

THEN THE BANDERILLEROS.

AND FINALLY THE MATADOR

IN HIS SPARKLING SUIT OF LIGHT.

WHILE CRUEL BRUTALITY TO MANY,

OTHERS STILL CONSIDER BULLFIGHTING AN ART FORM.

IT'S HARD FOR ME TO APPRECIATE, BUT TO THE SPANIARDS

WHO PACK THIS ARENA, THERE'S A NOBILITY TO THE BEAST

AND AN ELEGANCE TO THE FIGHT.

GOOD MATADORS ARE LIKE ROCK STARS.

THEY PERFORM WITH DRAMA, DARING, AND GRACE.

WITH EACH THRILLING PASS,

THE CROWDS CHEER UNTIL THE BULL MEETS HIS PREDICTABLE END.

IF THE FIGHT IS DEEMED A GOOD ONE,

THE PEOPLE WAVE KERCHIEFS

AND CALL FOR A TROPHY TO BE AWARDED.

FOR THIS FIGHT, THE MATADOR IS GIVEN AN EAR FROM HIS VICTIM

AND STRUTS TRIUMPHANTLY AROUND THE ARENA.

THE FESTIVAL'S ENERGY COURSES THROUGH THE CITY.

OVERLOOKING THE MAIN SQUARE, THE VENERABLE CAFE IRUNA

PULSES WITH MUSIC AND DANCE.

ENJOYING THE SCENE, WITH ITS DELIGHTFUL 1888 INTERIOR,

I'M IMPRESSED BY THE JOYFUL ENTHUSIASM THE PEOPLE

OF THIS TOWN HAVE FOR THEIR FESTIVAL OF SAN FERMIN.

AFTER THE COMMOTION OF PAMPLONA,

GETTING BACK ON THE PILGRIMAGE TRAIL BRINGS A WELCOMING PEACE.

FROM HERE THE HILLS GIVE WAY TO SPAIN'S VAST HIGH PLAIN.

A DAY'S WALK WEST OF PAMPLONA,

THE TOWN OF PUENTE DE LA REINA, OR "THE QUEEN'S BRIDGE,"

RETAINS A PILGRIM'S VIBE.

ITS GRACEFUL BRIDGE DATES FROM THE 11th CENTURY,

AND PILGRIMS HAVE BEEN CROSSING IT EVER SINCE.

NARROW MAIN STREETS ARE TYPICAL OF CAMINO TOWNS.

THEY WERE BORN AS A COLLECTION OF PILGRIM SERVICES

FLANKING THE PATH -- PLACES TO EAT,

SLEEP, HEAL, AND PRAY.

THIS 12th CENTURY CHURCH,

WITH A STORK'S NEST GUARDING ITS STEEPLE,

IS THOUGHT TO BE FOUNDED BY THE KNIGHTS TEMPLAR,

WHO CAME TO PROTECT PILGRIMS ALONG THE ROUTE.

ITS STARK ROMANESQUE INTERIOR

FEATURES A DISTINCTIVE Y-SHAPED CRUCIFIX,

LIKELY CARRIED ALL THE WAY ACROSS EUROPE TO THIS SPOT

BY PILGRIMS FROM GERMANY.

I CAN IMAGINE HOW, 600 OR 700 YEARS AGO,

THE WEARY FAITHFUL WOULD SIT RIGHT HERE,

GAZE UP AT THEIR SAVIOR, AND BE INSPIRED TO CARRY ON.

A FIVE-DAY WALK -- OR A TWO-HOUR DRIVE FOR US --

BRINGS US TO OUR NEXT STOP -- BURGOS.

IT'S A PEDESTRIAN-FRIENDLY CITY STRADDLING ITS RIVER.

STATELY PLANE TREES LINE THE RIVERSIDE PROMENADE,

GIVING SHADE THROUGH THE HOT DAYS.

ITS MAIN SQUARE SEEMS DESIGNED TO BRING THE COMMUNITY TOGETHER.

TODAY'S BURGOS FEELS WORKADAY,

BUT WITH A HINT OF GENTILITY AND FORMER POWER.

LIKE SO MANY TOWNS HERE IN THE NORTH OF SPAIN,

IT BECAME IMPORTANT DURING THE RECONQUISTA,

THAT CENTURIES-LONG STRUGGLE TO PUSH THE MUSLIM MOORS

BACK INTO NORTHERN AFRICA FROM WHERE THEY CAME.

ITS POSITION ON THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO

AND AS A TRADING CENTER HELPED IT TO FLOURISH.

FOR FIVE CENTURIES, BURGOS WAS THE CAPITAL

OF THE KINGDOM OF CASTILE.

IT'S DOMINATED BY

AN AWE-INSPIRING GOTHIC CATHEDRAL

DESIGNED BY FRENCH ARCHITECTS IN THE 13th CENTURY,

WITH ITS LACY SPIRES ADDED BY GERMAN ARCHITECTS IN THE 14th.

THE ORNATE EXTERIOR IS MATCHED BY

ITS LAVISH AND BRIGHTLY LIT INTERIOR.

IN SPAIN, THE FINAL FLOWERING OF THE GOTHIC AGE

WAS THE ELABORATE PLATERESQUE STYLE.

AS WAS TYPICAL OF GOTHIC CHURCHES,

IT'S RINGED BY RICHLY DECORATED CHAPELS

BUILT OVER THE CENTURIES BY AND FOR WEALTHY PARISHIONERS.

THIS CHAPEL IS DEDICATED TO ST. ANNE,

THE VIRGIN MARY'S MOTHER.

ITS 15th CENTURY ALTAR FEATURES THE TREE OF JESSE.

A SLEEPY AND APPARENTLY VERY FERTILE JESSE

SLUMBERS AT THE BOTTOM,

SPROUTING A LINEAGE THAT CONNECTS HIM

TO THE HOLY CHILD AND VIRGIN.

THIS SUMPTUOUS CHAPEL MARKS THE TOMB OF A REGIONAL GOVERNOR

AND HIS WIFE UNDER A BRILLIANT STAR-SHAPED VAULT.

IT'S STRIKING FOR ITS GRACEFULNESS AND FEMININITY.

INSPIRATIONAL AS THIS CATHEDRAL IS,

THE PILGRIMS HAVE A LONG TREK AHEAD OF THEM.

THE SLOW PACE AND NEED FOR FREQUENT REST BREAKS

PROVIDE PLENTY OF OPPORTUNITY FOR REFLECTION,

RELIGIOUS AND OTHERWISE.

FOR SOME, LEAVING BEHIND A STONE

SYMBOLIZES UNLOADING A PERSONAL BURDEN.

THE FIRST PERSON TO MAKE THIS JOURNEY WAS ST. JAMES HIMSELF.

AFTER THE DEATH AND RESURRECTION OF CHRIST,

THE APOSTLES TRAVELED FAR AND WIDE

TO SPREAD THE CHRISTIAN MESSAGE.

SUPPOSEDLY, ST. JAMES WENT ON A MISSIONARY TRIP

FROM THE HOLY LAND ALL THE WAY TO

THIS REMOTE CORNER OF NORTHWEST SPAIN.

ACCORDING TO LEGEND, IN THE YEAR 813,

ST. JAMES'S REMAINS WERE DISCOVERED IN THE TOWN

THAT WOULD SOON BEAR HIS NAME.

PEOPLE BEGAN WALKING THERE TO PAY HOMAGE TO HIS RELICS.

AFTER A 12th CENTURY POPE DECREED THAT THE PILGRIMAGE

COULD EARN FORGIVENESS FOR YOUR SINS,

THE POPULARITY OF THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO SOARED.

THE CAMINO ALSO SERVED A POLITICAL PURPOSE.

IT'S NO COINCIDENCE THAT THE DISCOVERY OF

ST. JAMES'S REMAINS HAPPENED WHEN MUSLIM MOORS

CONTROLLED MOST OF SPAIN.

THE WHOLE PHENOMENON OF THE CAMINO

HELPED FUEL THE EUROPEAN PASSION TO RETAKE SPAIN

AND PUSH THE MOORS BACK INTO AFRICA.

BUT BY ABOUT 1500, WITH THE DAWN OF THE RENAISSANCE

AND THE REFORMATION, INTEREST IN THE CAMINO

DIED ALMOST COMPLETELY.

THEN, IN THE 1960s, A HANDFUL OF PRIESTS

RE-ESTABLISHED THE TRADITION.

THE ROUTE HAS SINCE ENJOYED A HUGE RESURGENCE,

WITH 100,000 PILGRIMS TREKKING TO SANTIAGO EACH YEAR.

EIGHT DAYS FURTHER DOWN THE TRAIL IS LEON,

A SIZABLE CITY WITH AN ENJOYABLE SMALL-TOWN ATMOSPHERE.

FOUNDED AS A ROMAN CAMP IN THE FIRST CENTURY,

LEON GRADUALLY GREW PROSPEROUS

AND WAS THE CAPITAL OF ITS OWN KINGDOM FOR CENTURIES.

TODAY'S LEON IS THE YOUTHFUL LEADING CITY

OF ONE OF SPAIN'S BIGGEST PROVINCES.

ITS 13th CENTURY GOTHIC CATHEDRAL,

TOWERING DRAMATICALLY OVER THE TOWN CENTER,

MUST HAVE STOKED THE SPIRIT OF MEDIEVAL CHRISTIANS.

THROUGH THE MIDDLE AGES, THE STEADY FLOW OF PILGRIMS

FROM ALL ACROSS EUROPE INEVITABLY RESULTED IN

A RICH EXCHANGE OF KNOWLEDGE, ART, AND ARCHITECTURE.

THAT'S ONE REASON WHY TODAY, ALL ALONG THE CAMINO,

YOU'LL FIND MAGNIFICENT CHURCHES AND EXQUISITE ART.

JUST DOWN THE STREET, THE RELATIVELY HUMBLE

CHURCH OF SAN ISIDORO HOUSES SOME OF

THE MOST SUBLIME MEDIEVAL ART IN ALL OF SPAIN.

THIS ROYAL PANTHEON,

NICKNAMED "THE SISTINE CHAPEL OF THE ROMANESQUE AGE,"

IS THE FINAL RESTING PLACE OF 20 KINGS OF LEON.

PAINTED AROUND THE YEAR 1100,

THIS IS A RARE OPPORTUNITY TO SEE ROMANESQUE FRESCOES IN SITU

WHERE THEY WERE ORIGINALLY INTENDED.

THE ART SHOWS A REALISM AND MOVEMENT

RARE IN ROMANESQUE ART.

STEPPING UNDER THESE VAULTS,

I CAN IMAGINE THE PILGRIM CENTURIES AGO

AWE-STRUCK BY THIS MYSTIC BEAUTY.

THE ANGEL ANNOUNCES TO MARY WITH BILLOWING ROBES

SHE'LL GIVE BIRTH TO THE MESSIAH.

ALL OF NATURE, INCLUDING GOAT-HERDERS

IN 11th CENTURY ATTIRE, CELEBRATES THE NEWS.

THE STORY OF CHRIST'S LIFE UNFOLDS FROM THERE,

ENDING WITH THE EVENTS LEADING UP TO THE CRUCIFIXION.

AFTER JESUS IS CONDEMNED, SIMON HELPS CARRY HIS CROSS,

PONTIUS PILATE WASHES HIS HANDS OF THE WHOLE BUSINESS,

AND JESUS IS CRUCIFIED.

FINALLY, CHRIST RETURNS, TRIUMPHANT OVER DEATH,

SITTING ON A RAINBOW AND BLESSING THOSE

20 ROYAL TOMBS.

FURTHER ALONG THE CAMINO, THE TERRAIN CHANGES.

PILGRIMS PASS THROUGH ROLLING HILLS BLANKETED WITH VINEYARDS.

THE PATH LEADS TO THE SMALL TOWN OF VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO,

WHERE THEY REACH

THE 12th CENTURY CHURCH OF ST. JAMES

WITH ITS FAMOUS GATE OF FORGIVENESS.

THE PILGRIMAGE WAS AN ARDUOUS TREK,

AND NOT EVERYONE SUCCEEDED.

500 YEARS AGO, THANKS TO A COMPASSIONATE POPE,

IT WAS DECIDED THAT ANYONE WHO MADE IT THIS FAR

AND GOT SICK AND COULDN'T COMPLETE THE JOURNEY

OVER THE RUGGED LAST STRETCH TO SANTIAGO

COULD STOP HERE AND CALL IT A SUCCESSFUL PILGRIMAGE ANYWAY.

NEXT TO THE CHURCH IS A CLASSIC CAMINO ALBERGUE.

THIS 80-BED HOSTEL IS RUN BY VOLUNTEERS,

AND PROVIDES 10,000 PILGRIMS A YEAR WITH NEARLY FREE BEDS.

AT REGULAR INTERVALS ALL ALONG THE ROUTE,

HUMBLE HOSTELS LIKE THIS GIVE TRAIL-WEARY PILGRIMS

A PLACE TO TEND THEIR NEEDS,

FROM NURSING SORE FEET

TO DOING LAUNDRY.

[ MAN SPEAKING SPANISH ]

AMEN.

AMEN.

AMEN.

[ APPLAUSE ]

VOLUNTEERS COOK AND SERVE COMMUNAL MEALS.

A WONDERFUL CAMARADERIE PERCOLATES,

AS A MULTI-NATIONAL COMMUNITY -- YOUNG AND OLD

AND OF ALL BELIEFS -- IS CREATED.

THE CHALLENGING JOURNEY ENCOURAGES INTROSPECTION,

AND EACH PILGRIM HAS THEIR OWN MOTIVATION.

SO WHY HAVE YOU TAKEN THIS JOURNEY?

Man: FOR ME,

I SUPPOSE IT'S A BIT KIND OF CORNY OR CHEESY,

BUT...TO FIND THINGS LIKE A BIT OF BALANCE AGAIN IN LIFE.

YOU KNOW, I SPEND A LOT OF TIME AT MY JOB,

WORK IN AN OFFICE, IN SALES,

IT'S STRESSFUL, IT'S...MONEY, MONEY, MONEY,

SO IT'S NICE TO GET OUT ON THE OPEN ROADS,

LIVE OUT OF A RUCKSACK,

JUST FORGET ABOUT CARS AND COMPUTERS AND MOTORWAYS.

YOU KNOW, I WAS GETTING A BIT TIRED AND WORN DOWN BY ALL THAT,

SO, FOR ME, HOPEFULLY I'LL TAKE BACK KIND OF A FEELING OF...

REGENERATION, RENAISSANCE.

Woman: YOU LEARN JUST TO LIVE WITH

THE SILENCE OF THE NATURE AROUND YOU,

AND YOU REALLY FEEL

ASCENT INTO A WORLD THAT MOST OF THE TIME

DOES NOT EXIST IN BIG TOWNS LIKE BERLIN OR NEW YORK

OR OTHER TOWNS BECAUSE THERE'S ALWAYS SOMETHING AROUND

THAT DISTRACTS YOU.

BUT WHEN YOU ARE IN VILLAGES LIKE THIS HERE,

YEAH, AND YOU ONLY SEE THE CHURCH

AND THERE'S NOBODY ON THE STREET.

IT'S REALLY CALMING.

I THINK THAT YOU FEEL CLOSER TO GOD DOING THIS, COMING.

YOU FEEL CLOSER TO YOUR OWN SOUL

BECAUSE YOU HAVE TIME TO THINK ABOUT YOURSELF,

ABOUT YOUR PROBLEMS, ABOUT THE THINGS THAT

YOU LEFT AT HOME, AND YOU FEEL CLOSER TO GOD

AND CLOSER TO YOUR OWN SOUL.

Steves: THE FINAL LEG OF THE JOURNEY LEADS THROUGH

LUSH AND GREEN GALICIA.

AND THE GATEWAY TO GALICIA IS THE RUSTIC HAMLET

OF O CEBREIRO, PERCHED HIGH ON A RIDGE.

THE TOWN WELCOMES PILGRIMS

WITH ANCIENT AND CHARACTERISTIC STONE HUTS.

THE CHURCH, FOUNDED IN THE 9th CENTURY,

IS ONE OF THE OLDEST ON THE CAMINO ROUTE.

PILGRIMS ARE SURE TO STOP IN FOR ANOTHER STAMP

ON THEIR CAMINO CREDENTIAL.

GREEN AND DENSELY FORESTED GALICIA

SHATTERS VISITORS' PRECONCEPTIONS OF SPAIN.

PILGRIMS PASS GHOSTLY CASTLES,

SIMPLE FARMHOUSES WITH SLATE ROOFS,

AND SLEEPY MEDIEVAL VILLAGES.

HERE, IT'S EASY TO SEE THE CELTIC HERITAGE

GALICIANS SHARE WITH THEIR COUSINS

JUST ACROSS THE SEA IN IRELAND.

AFTER OVER A MONTH ON THE TRAIL, SPIRITS ARE HIGH,

AS WELL-WORN PILGRIMS REACH THEIR FINAL STOP --

THE CITY OF SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA.

SANTIAGO HAS LONG HAD A POWERFUL

AND MYSTERIOUS DRAW ON TRAVELERS.

THIS NEAT AND STURDY CITY IS BUILT OF GRANITE.

ITS ARCADED STREETS

ARE A REMINDER THAT WINTERS HERE ARE COLD AND WET.

STROLLING ACROSS ITS SQUARES AND UNDER ITS GRAND CHURCHES,

YOU CAN IMAGINE A TIME WHEN THE CITY WAS A RELIGIOUS

AND CULTURAL POWERHOUSE.

SANTIAGO'S HEYDAY WAS THE 12th CENTURY,

WHEN THE NOTION OF EUROPE WAS STILL IN ITS INFANCY.

IT WAS A PLACE WHERE PEOPLE FROM ALL CORNERS CAME TOGETHER,

SHARED IDEAS, AND THEN DISPERSED.

IN SOME WAYS, THE VERY IDEA OF EUROPE AS A CIVILIZATION

JELLED DURING THIS AGE,

AND SANTIAGO PLAYED AN IMPORTANT ROLE.

APART FROM ALL THE PILGRIM ACTION

AND ITS VENERABLE ARCHITECTURE,

SANTIAGO IS A WORKADAY TOWN.

ITS VIBRANT MARKET OFFERS A FINE OPPORTUNITY

TO SAMPLE THE ESSENTIALS OF ITS HEARTY CUISINE.

FARMERS SELL THEIR PRODUCE.

THE SHAPELY CHEESES ARE ENJOYED BY

LOCALS AND VISITORS ALIKE.

AND THE SEAFOOD IS FRESH AS CAN BE.

A GALICIAN SPECIALTY IS OCTOPUS

PREPARED LOCAL STYLE, OR A LA GALLEGA.

AFTER THE TENDERIZED OCTOPUS IS BOILED IN A COPPER POT,

IT'S SNIPPED INTO BITE-SIZE PIECES.

IT'S TOPPED WITH A MIX OF SWEET AND SPICY PAPRIKA,

SEA SALT, AND OLIVE OIL,

THEN SERVED ON A WOODEN PLATE.

EAT IT WITH TOOTHPICKS, NEVER A FORK.

PEOPLE HERE HAVE THEIR OWN DISTINCT LANGUAGE, GALEGO.

IT'S A MIX OF SPANISH AND PORTUGUESE.

GALICIA'S ANCIENT CELTIC ROOTS

ARE PARTICULARLY EVIDENT IN ITS MUSIC.

WITH WAILING PIPES AND THUNDERING DRUMS,

THE CELTIC HERITAGE ANNOUNCES ITSELF LOUD AND CLEAR.

BUT NOTHING CAN DISTRACT THE PILGRIMS AS

THEY TAKE THE FINAL STEPS OF THEIR LONG JOURNEY.

AROUND THE LAST CORNER, THEY REACH

THE DESTINATION OF A THOUSAND YEARS OF PILGRIMS --

THE CATHEDRAL THAT HOLDS THE TOMB OF ST. JAMES.

AS MILLIONS OF WEARY YET EXHILARATED PILGRIMS

HAVE DONE BEFORE THEM, THEY STAND BEFORE THE CATHEDRAL

AND ARE FILLED WITH JUBILATION.

BUT THE RELIGIOUS CLIMAX FOR MANY LIES WITHIN THE CATHEDRAL.

IMAGINE YOU'RE A MEDIEVAL PILGRIM.

YOU'VE JUST WALKED 500 MILES.

YOUR JOURNEY IS DONE.

WORSHIPPING BEFORE THE ALTAR,

YOU GIVE THANKS TO ST. JAMES FOR A SAFE PASSAGE,

AND YOU REFLECT ON THE LESSONS OF YOUR JOURNEY.

[ CONGREGATION SINGING ]

AND, IF YOU'RE HERE ON A FESTIVAL DAY,

THE MASS CULMINATES WITH AN ENORMOUS SWINGING

INCENSE BURNER.

[ MAN SINGING ]

GAZING AT THE SPECTACLE

OF THIS 120-POUND BURNER FLYING THROUGH THE AIR,

YOU'RE AWE-STRUCK BY THE WONDER OF GOD.

[ SINGING CONTINUES ]

FINALLY, YOU CLIMB THE STONY STAIRCASE

BEHIND THE ALTAR TO THE STATUE OF ST. JAMES,

STUDDED WITH PRECIOUS GEMS.

EMBRACING HIM FROM BEHIND, YOU TAKE A MOMENT

TO CELEBRATE YOUR SPIRITUAL OR PERSONAL TRIUMPH.

OUR JOURNEY ACROSS NORTHERN SPAIN

REMINDS ME WE ALL HAVE CHOICES.

SOME WILL RUN WITH THE BULLS,

OTHERS WILL TREK WITH THE PILGRIMS.

WHATEVER PATH YOU FOLLOW,

DON'T FORGET TO ENJOY THE JOURNEY.

I'M RICK STEVES.

UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.

AND BUEN CAMINO.

HI, I'M RICK STEVES,

BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE!

Man:BUENAS TARDES!

BUENAS TARDES!

DON'T FORGET TO ENJOY THE JOURNEY.

[Laughing] I'M RICK STEVES.

UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.

Man: OH, INCREDIBLE.

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