HI, I'M RICK STEVES,
BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME, WE'RE NAVIGATING THE ADRIATIC, AND A LOT MORE.
IT'S CROATIA.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
CROATIA IS A FASCINATING LAND
WITH A HARD-FOUGHT HISTORY IN A COMPLEX CORNER OF EUROPE,
AND AS TRAVELERS ARE REDISCOVERING ITS CHARMS,
IT'S EMERGING AS ONE OF EUROPE'S TOP DESTINATIONS.
EXPLORING CROATIA,
WE'LL SEE THE PEARL OF THE ADRIATIC,
SAMPLE SOME ISLAND CHARM,
WANDER ROMAN RUINS,
AND HIKE THROUGH A WATERY WONDERLAND.
WE'LL ENJOY ITS THRIVING CAPITAL CITY,
THE ITALIAN-LIKE CHARM OF ISTRIA,
AND THAT PENINSULA'S MOST ENCHANTING PORT TOWN.
YUGOSLAVIA FILLED MUCH OF EUROPE'S BALKAN PENINSULA
DURING MOST OF THE 20th CENTURY.
WHEN YUGOSLAVIA BROKE UP INTO SEPARATE COUNTRIES IN THE 1990s,
CROATIA WOUND UP WITH MOST OF ITS COASTLINE.
WE START SOUTH, IN DUBROVNIK,
SAIL ALONG THE DALMATIAN COAST, STOPPING AT KORCULA AND HVAR,
EN ROUTE TO SPLIT.
AFTER EXPLORING PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARKS
AND THE CAPITAL CITY OF ZAGREB,
WE TRAVEL TO THE ISTRIAN PENINSULA TO ROVINJ.
SPECTACULARLY SET DUBROVNIK IS BOTH HISTORIC
AND A HIT WITH TOURISTS.
IT'S UNDERSTANDABLY CROATIA'S TOP DRAW.
WHETHER SURVEYING ITS STOUT WALLS,
JOINING THE PROMENADE ALONG ITS MAIN DRAG,
OR APPRECIATING ITS FORMER GLORY,
IT'S CLEAR THIS CITY WAS A MAJOR POWER IN THE PAST
AND IS A MAJOR DRAW TODAY.
EXPLORING ITS EVOCATIVE BACK LANES,
RELAXING ON ITS PEBBLY BEACHES,
OR JUST PONDERING ITS MAJESTIC SETTING,
DUBROVNIK IS SIMPLY DELIGHTFUL.
DUBROVNIK IS THE PEARL OF THE ADRIATIC.
IN FACT, WE'LL COVER IT IN MORE DETAIL IN ANOTHER EPISODE.
FOR THIS PROGRAM,
WE'LL LEAVE THE CROWDS OF DUBROVNIK AND EXPLORE
THE LESS-APPRECIATED CORNERS OF CROATIA.
BOATS BIG AND SMALL
CONNECT DUBROVNIK TO THE REST OF CROATIA.
WE'RE SETTING SAIL ALONG THE SCENIC DALMATIAN COAST
WITH ITS COUNTLESS ISLANDS.
THEY'RE ALL VARIATIONS ON THE SAME THEME --
RUGGED LIMESTONE FEATURES WITH HISTORIC PORT TOWNS
AND SPARSELY POPULATED INTERIORS.
THE ROCKY SOIL AND PERSISTENT SUN ARE GOOD FOR GRAPES,
AND THE PEBBLY BEACHES WITH CRYSTAL-CLEAR WATER
ARE BOTH PRISTINE AND INVITING.
WE'RE VISITING TWO ISLANDS, AND FIRST UP
IS KORCULA.
VISITORS ENJOY ITS MINI-DUBROVNIK VIBE.
YOU'LL FIND A FORTIFIED PENINSULA
UNDER A STRIKING MOUNTAIN BACKDROP.
IN THE OLD TOWN, NARROW LANES COME WITH
AN EASY-GOING CHARM.
LIKE OTHER CROATIAN COASTAL TOWNS,
KORCULA HAS TWO PARTS --
THE FUNCTIONAL, PRACTICAL SIDE,
WHERE MOST PEOPLE PARK, EAT, AND SLEEP,
AND THE TIME-WARP OLD TOWN.
RATHER THAN STAY IN A BIG RESORT HOTEL,
I'M STAYING IN A SOBE.
THAT'S A ROOM RENTED IN A PRIVATE HOME.
I CALLED AHEAD.
MY HOSTS LENNI AND PETER MET ME AT THE BOAT.
THEY RENT SIX ROOMS IN THEIR HOUSE,
BURIED DEEP IN KORCULA'S OLD TOWN.
A 500-YEAR-OLD BUILDING CAN BE TIGHT.
THIS ROOM MAY BE SMALL, BUT IT'S COMFORTABLE,
AIR CONDITIONED, AND HALF THE PRICE OF A HOTEL.
AND A GREAT LOCATION.
THEY CLAIM MARCO POLO LIVED JUST UP THE STREET.
THE TOWN'S CHARMS ARE ALL WITHIN A FEW STEPS.
THE HISTORIC GATE IS A REMINDER THAT KORCULA WAS ONCE A MIGHTY
LITTLE PLACE.
FACADES RECALL ITS 14th-CENTURY TRADING HEYDAY.
EACH LANE CONTRIBUTES TO
THE EVOCATIVE MEDIEVAL TOWNSCAPE,
DRIPPING WITH DRYING LAUNDRY AND LOCAL CHARACTER.
YOU CAN SAVOR IT ALL OVER A CUP OF COFFEE.
IF YOU WANT TO ENJOY THE CROATIAN CAFE SCENE,
IT HELPS TO KNOW A FEW WORDS.
FOR A LATTE, IT'S BIJELA KAVA.
THAT'S "WHITE COFFEE."
WE'RE SETTING SAIL AGAIN.
BOTH LUMBERING CAR FERRIES
AND SLEEK CRUISE SHIPS CARRY DALMATIA'S
MANY VISITORS EFFICIENTLY FROM PORT TO PORT.
IN ANCIENT TIMES, GREEKS AND ROMANS
SAILED UP AND DOWN THIS COASTLINE,
ESTABLISHING MANY TRADE SETTLEMENTS.
THE ISLAND OF HVAR WAS SETTLED AND NAMED
BY THE GREEKS IN THE 4th CENTURY B.C.
THE ISLAND'S MAIN TOWN, ALSO NAMED HVAR,
NESTLES UNDER ITS FORMIDABLE FORTRESS.
ITS HANDY BOAT CONNECTIONS MAKE THIS A POPULAR STOP.
WHILE MOBBED WITH TOURISTS IN PEAK SEASON,
WE'RE HERE IN LATE MAY,
AND IT'S MORE SLEEPY THAN CHIC.
LIKE MOST MAJOR TOWNS ALONG THE ADRIATIC COASTLINE,
THE FORTIFIED HARBOR OF HVAR WAS A STRATEGIC LINK
IN A VAST 16th-CENTURY VENETIAN TRADING EMPIRE,
ITS FORTRESS, WALLS, TOWER, AND PALACES
ALL BUILT BY AND FOR THE VENETIANS.
ACTIVITIES ARE LOW-ENERGY.
EXPERTLY ENJOYING THIS TOWN SEEMINGLY MADE FOR RELAXING,
YACHTERS STERN-TIE INTO THE GOOD LIFE.
VISITORS NURSE DRINKS ON THE MAIN SQUARE.
STROLL THE BACK LANES,
WHERE YOU MAY COME UPON A MUSICAL SURPRISE.
[ SINGING IN CROATIAN ]
Steves: LOCAL A CAPPELLA CHOIRS PERFORM KLAPA MUSIC,
THE QUINTESSENTIAL DALMATIAN FOLK MUSIC.
EVERY TOWN HAS
THEIR ALL-MALE KLAPA CHOIR.
[ SINGING IN CROATIAN ]
Steves: THESE SONGS OF SEAFARING LIFE,
OF LOVES LOST AND LOVES FOUND,
STIR THE SOULS OF CROATIANS AND VISITORS ALIKE.
BRAVO.
HEY-HEY!
YEAH.
WHEN IT COMES TO MEAL TIME
HERE ON THE COAST, IT'S GOT TO BE SEAFOOD.
HARD-WORKING RESTAURANTS SEEM TO ABIDE BY THE LOCAL CREED.
EATING MEAT IS FOOD;
EATING FISH -- THAT'S PLEASURE.
OUR WAITER REMINDED US
THAT A FISH SHOULD SWIM THREE TIMES --
FIRST IN THE SEA,
THEN IN OLIVE OIL...
Man: HERE YOU ARE.
Steves: AND, FINALLY, IN WINE.
AFTER A LITTLE ISLAND-HOPPING, APPROACHING URBAN SPLIT,
CROATIA'S SECOND CITY,
FEELS LIKE A RETURN TO CIVILIZATION.
SO MANY DALMATIAN COAST TOWNS FEEL TAILOR-MADE FOR TOURISM.
SPLIT IS A SERIOUS PORT.
IT'S VIBRANT WITH OR WITHOUT
ITS VISITORS.
SPLIT FEELS MODERN,
BUT A CLOSE LOOK AT THE SURVIVING FACADE
OF A ROMAN PALACE FRONTING ITS HARBOR
REVEALS THE CITY'S ANCIENT ROOTS.
TODAY'S RESIDENTS ARE LITERALLY LIVING
IN A ROMAN EMPEROR'S PALACE.
IN THE 4th CENTURY A.D.,
WHEN ROMAN EMPEROR DIOCLETIAN RETIRED,
HE BUILT A VAST RESIDENCE FOR HIS GOLDEN YEARS
HERE IN HIS NATIVE DALMATIA.
WHEN ROME FELL,
DIOCLETIAN'S PALACE WAS ABANDONED.
EVENTUALLY, A MEDIEVAL TOWN SPROUTED
FROM ITS ABANDONED SHELL,
AND TO THIS DAY, THE MAZE OF NARROW ALLEYS,
ONCE LITERALLY DIOCLETIAN'S HALLWAY'S,
MAKES UP THE CORE OF SPLIT.
LOCAL GUIDE MAYA BENZON IS JOINING US
TO HELP EXPLAIN THE STORY BEHIND HER HOME TOWN.
Benzon: THE PALACE WAS HUGE, 200 METERS ON EACH SIDE,
AND THESE WERE JUST THE BASEMENTS,
SO YOU CAN IMAGINE WHAT WAS IN THE UPPER FLOOR.
ROMAN ENGINEERS COULD BUILD ANYTHING.
SO THEY HAD CONCRETE, THEY HAD BRICKS,
ROUND ARCHES, ALL THE TECHNOLOGY.
YEAH, THEY HAD THE TECHNOLOGY
AND THEY HAD THE SLAVES.
CHEAP LABOR.
YES.
Steves: NEARBY, A GRAND UNDERGROUND HALLWAY,
NOW USED AS A SHOPPING ARCADE, LEADS TO DIOCLETIAN'S VESTIBULE.
Benzon: THIS IS A GRAND ENTRYWAY TOWARDS DIOCLETIAN'S
PRIVATE AREA, PRIVATE QUARTERS.
ROMAN EMPERORS CALLED THEMSELVES THE GODS,
AND DIOCLETIAN CALLED HIMSELF JOVIUS, SON OF THE GOD JUPITER.
PEOPLE WORSHIPPED HIM, SO THEY WERE KISSING HIS ROBE.
THEY TREATED HIM LIKE A GOD ON EARTH.
Steves: DIOCLETIAN'S MAUSOLEUM DOMINATED
THE CENTER OF THE PALACE COMPLEX.
MUCH OF THE ORIGINAL ROMAN BUILDING SURVIVES --
THE IMPRESSIVE DOME, COLUMNS AND CAPITALS,
AND FINE CARVED RELIEFS.
DIOCLETIAN WAS NOTORIOUS
FOR PERSECUTING CHRISTIANS, BUT CENTURIES LATER,
IN THE MIDDLE AGES, HIS MAUSOLEUM WAS CONVERTED
INTO A CATHEDRAL, AND SO, IRONICALLY,
WHAT DIOCLETIAN BUILT TO GLORIFY HIS MEMORY IS USED INSTEAD
TO REMEMBER HIS VICTIMS -- CHRISTIAN MARTYRS,
LIKE THIS ONE, WHO WAS TIED TO A MILLSTONE
AND TOSSED INTO THE SEA.
A FEW STEPS AWAY IS A TEMPLE DEDICATED TO JUPITER.
SO THIS IS ALL PART OF DIOCLETIAN'S PALACE COMPLEX?
Benzon: YES, WE ARE STILL WALKING IN
THE AREA OF DIOCLETIAN'S PALACE,
AND, YOU KNOW, DIOCLETIAN WAS JOVIUS,
AND HERE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PALACE,
HE ERECTED THE HOUSE FOR HIS FATHER.
THIS IS JUPITER'S TEMPLE, AND FOR A ROMAN BUILDING,
IT'S VERY RARE THAT IT'S
COMPLETELY PRESERVED WITH A CEILING, WITH A ROOF.
SO ON THE CEILING YOU CAN SEE REALLY NICE ROMAN CARVINGS.
YOU CAN SEE SOME FACES, SOME FLOWERS.
LATER ON DURING THE HISTORY, IN THE MIDDLE AGES,
THIS WAS CONVERTED INTO THE CHURCH,
SO THIS WAS THE MEDIEVAL BAPTISTERY.
YOU HAVE ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST,
AND HERE WE HAVE THE BAPTISMAL FONT.
AND WE HAVE THIS CURIOUS PANEL HERE IN THE FRONT.
WE HAVE CROATIAN KING FROM THE 11th CENTURY,
WE HAVE A BISHOP STANDING JUST NEXT TO HIM,
AND UNDERNEATH HIS FEET, WE HAVE A CITIZEN.
Steves: SO YOU'VE GOT
THE SECULAR POWER, THE RELIGIOUS POWER,
AND THE PEOPLE RESPECTING THE POWER.
THAT WOULD BE IT.
BECAUSE THIS IS A BAPTISTERY, HERE WE HAVE A STATUE
OF ST. JOHN THE BAPTIST.
THIS IS A MODERN WORK OF THE 20th CENTURY,
MADE BY THE GREATEST CROATIAN SCULPTOR EVER,
IVAN MESTROVIC.
Steves: A HIGHLIGHT FOR ME IS SIMPLY PEOPLE-WATCHING.
THE SEA OF CROATIAN HUMANITY LAPS AT THE WALLS
OF DIOCLETIAN'S PALACE ALONG
THE PEDESTRIAN PROMENADE, OR RIVA.
AS ON SIMILAR PROMENADES THROUGHOUT
THE MEDITERRANEAN WORLD,
THE CARS HAVE MADE WAY FOR THE PEOPLE.
STROLLING LOCALS FINISH THEIR DAYS IN GOOD STYLE,
JUST ENJOYING LIFE'S SIMPLE PLEASURES
IN A CITY MADE FRIENDLY FOR ITS RESIDENTS.
WHILE THE COAST IS CROATIA'S MAIN DRAW,
SOME OF ITS BEST ATTRACTIONS ARE INLAND.
WE'RE DELVING INTO THE CROATIAN HEARTLAND.
ONE OF EUROPE'S TOP NATURAL WONDERS
IS PLITVICE LAKES NATIONAL PARK.
IMAGINE NIAGARA FALLS SLICED AND DICED AND SPRINKLED OVER
A VAST AND HEAVILY FORESTED CANYON.
IT'S A LUSH AND UNFORGETTABLE VALLEY OF 16 TERRACED LAKES
LACED TOGETHER BY WATERFALLS
AND MILES OF PLEASANT PLANK WALKS.
BOATS GLIDE VISITORS INTO THE HEART OF THE PARK.
COUNTLESS CASCADES
AND WATER THAT'S STRANGELY CLEAR
YET FULL OF VIBRANT COLORS MAKE PLITVICE
A MISTY NATURAL WONDERLAND.
FISH SEEM TO KNOW THERE'S NOT A HOOK FOR MILES.
CAREFULLY MAINTAINED TRAILS AND BOARDWALKS
LET YOU GET INTIMATE WITH
THE WONDER OF THE PLACE.
OBSERVANT NATURE LOVERS CAN CHOOSE FROM HUNDREDS
OF FLOWER TYPES TO ASSEMBLE A PHOTOGRAPHIC BOUQUET.
THE STONY FORMATIONS DRIP DOWN LIKE THE FOLIAGE BECAUSE
THE GRASS AND MOSS BOTH DIRECT THE FLOW OF THE WATER
AND PROVIDE A KIND OF SCAFFOLDING
FOR THE SLOW AND STEADY CALCIFICATION PROCESS.
NATURALISTS CALL PLITVICE A PERFECT STORM
OF GEOLOGICAL, CLIMATIC, AND BIOLOGICAL FEATURES.
THE MAGIC INGREDIENT -- CALCIUM CARBONATE,
A MINERAL DEPOSIT FROM THE LIMESTONE
THAT GETS DISSOLVED INTO THE WATER, THEN RE-DEPOSITED,
CONTINUALLY BREAKING DOWN NATURAL TRAVERTINE DAMS
AND BUILDING UP NEW ONES.
TRANQUIL AS THIS PARK IS, IT WAS HERE, IN 1991,
THAT THE FIRST SHOTS OF CROATIA'S WAR
WITH YUGOSLAVIA WERE FIRED, AND, IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO LOOK,
EVIDENCE OF THE WAR SURVIVES.
WHEN CROATIA DECLARED ITS INDEPENDENCE
FROM YUGOSLAVIA IN 1991, ITS SERB MINORITY --
ABOUT 10% OF THE POPULATION -- WAS CONCERNED ABOUT ITS RIGHTS,
SO THEY BROKE AWAY FROM THE NEW STATE OF CROATIA,
WHICH PLUNGED THE REGION INTO FOUR YEARS OF WAR.
WHILE THE WAR BARELY TOUCHED THE COASTLINE,
HERE IN THE INTERIOR -- WHICH HAD A SIZABLE
SERB MINORITY -- THE FIGHTING WAS DEVASTATING.
IN TOWNS LIKE OTOCAC,
BULLET HOLES STILL MAR FACADES.
THESE SCARS REFLECT
THE BRUTAL HOUSE-TO-HOUSE FIGHTING
THAT CHARACTERIZED THE WAR.
SEEING BOMB-DAMAGED HOMES REBUILT
MAKES YOU PONDER LOSS, RESILIENCE, AND HOPE.
THE CROATS' CATHOLIC CHURCH, ONCE SHELLED AND NOW REPAIRED,
HAS A POIGNANT MEMORIAL IN ITS GARDEN --
CHRIST CRUCIFIED ON A CROSS OF ARTILLERY SHELLS.
TAKING A LITTLE EXTRA TIME TO WANDER THROUGH TOWN GIVES
AN INSIGHT INTO PEOPLE MOVING ON WITH THEIR LIVES.
WHILE A FEW SERBS ARE RETURNING,
THE REALITY IS, THE WAR CHANGED
THE ETHNIC MAKE-UP OF CROATIA FOREVER.
AS DISTURBING AS THESE REMINDERS OF WAR ARE,
IT IS UPLIFTING TO BE HERE AND TO ACTUALLY SEE
HOW WELL THE COUNTRY'S PUTTING ITSELF BACK TOGETHER.
OUR NEXT STOP -- THE CAPITAL CITY, ZAGREB.
YOU CAN'T GET A COMPLETE PICTURE OF MODERN CROATIA
WITHOUT A VISIT HERE.
THIS LIVELY AND LIVABLE CITY
IS HOME TO ONE OUT OF EVERY SIX CROATIANS.
JELACIC SQUARE -- "THE TIMES SQUARE OF ZAGREB" --
IS BOISTEROUS
WITH MODERN COMMERCE AND LOCAL LIFE.
THE STATUE DEPICTS THE SQUARE'S NAMESAKE, JOSIP JELACIC,
THE 19th-CENTURY NATIONAL HERO
WHO STILL INSPIRES CROATIANS TODAY.
SEEING THE CITY BUZZ WITH ACTIVITY,
YOU FEEL THE ENERGY OF URBAN CROATIA.
NIGHT OR DAY, THE STREETS ARE
A PARADE OF STYLISH LOCALS, CONFIDENT AND LOOKING GOOD.
THE PEOPLE-FRIENDLY BUSINESS ZONE COMES WITH THE ENERGY
AND BUSTLE YOU'D EXPECT TO FIND
IN ANY PROSPEROUS EUROPEAN CAPITAL.
WHETHER YOU'RE ENJOYING AN OUTDOOR CAFE,
WINDOW-SHOPPING,
OR JUST LOUNGING IN ONE OF THE CITY'S MANY INVITING PARKS,
ZAGREB MAKES YOU WONDER, "WHERE ARE ALL THE TOURISTS?"
ZAGREB'S HISTORIC UPPER TOWN BLANKETS A HILL.
ITS MAIN SQUARE IS HOME TO CROATIA'S GOVERNMENT.
THE NATIONAL PARLIAMENT BUILDING FLIES
BOTH THE CROATIAN AND EUROPEAN FLAGS.
DOMINATING THE SQUARE IS THE CHURCH OF ST. MARK,
WITH A COLORFULLY TILED ROOF DEPICTING BOTH
THE COAT OF ARMS OF CROATIA AND THE CITY SEAL OF ZAGREB.
NEARBY IS THE CROATIAN MUSEUM OF NAIVE ART.
THIS CHARMING COLLECTION FEATURES
LYRICAL LANDSCAPES AND VILLAGE SCENES
PAINTED IN THE MID-20th CENTURY BY SELF-TAUGHT PEASANT ARTISTS.
WHILE SOME ARE ON CANVAS,
MOST ARE PAINTED ON GLASS, A CHEAP
AND READILY AVAILABLE MATERIAL THAT WAS EASIER TO WORK ON.
NAIVE ART IS CREATED BY UNTRAINED ARTISTS
ISOLATED FROM THE ARTISTIC MAINSTREAM.
THEY PAINTED IN A FIGURATIVE WAY
WHILE THE REST OF THE ARTISTIC WORLD
EMBRACED INCREASINGLY AN ABSTRACT STYLE.
GENERALIC, SHOWN HERE IN A SELF-PORTRAIT,
WAS THE FATHER OF THE CROATIAN NAIVE ART MOVEMENT.
IN 1953, HE TOOK HIS ART TO A SHOW IN PARIS
AS A RELATIVE UNKNOWN.
HE WAS A HUGE HIT, SOLD EVERYTHING,
AND CAME HOME RICH AND FAMOUS.
THESE CROATIAN NAIVE ARTISTS WERE OUTSIDERS SOUGHT OUT
BY ART WORLD INSIDERS TO VALIDATE THEIR NOTION THAT
ARTISTIC ABILITY WAS MORE THAN A LEARNED SKILL --
IT WAS AN INBORN TALENT.
IN PLACES SUCH AS RURAL CROATIA,
MEDIEVAL LIFESTYLES SURVIVED WELL INTO THE 20th CENTURY.
YOU SEE A LOT OF WINTER SCENES BECAUSE THESE ARTISTS
WERE FARMERS FIRST, BUSY TENDING THEIR FIELDS
THROUGH THE GROWING SEASON.
THEY PAINTED THEIR VILLAGE WORLD,
ISOLATED FROM THE MODERN WORLD.
IN A COMPLEX AGE, MANY URBANITES
FOUND THIS ART REFRESHING FOR ITS BRUTE SIMPLICITY.
TUCKED INSIDE ZAGREB'S ONLY SURVIVING TOWN GATE
IS AN EVOCATIVE CHAPEL.
THE FOCAL POINT IS A PAINTING OF MARY
THAT MIRACULOUSLY SURVIVED A FIRE
IN 1731.
PEOPLE YOUNG AND OLD PASSING THROUGH
STOP HERE BRIEFLY TO WORSHIP.
PAUSING REVERENTLY,
THE FAITHFUL BRING THEIR CONCERNS TO MARY.
THE MANY CANDLES REPRESENT ZAGREBIAN PRAYERS.
SMOKE-STAINED PLAQUES ON THE WALL GIVE THANKS -- HVALA --
FOR PRAYERS ANSWERED.
JUST DOWN THE ROAD IS A THRIVING PEDESTRIAN ZONE --
ZAGREB'S MAIN CAFE STREET AND URBAN PROMENADE.
COMFY SEATING ENCOURAGES PEOPLE TO SLOW DOWN
AND ENJOY EACH OTHER'S COMPANY.
SITTING HERE, IT'S CLEAR -- ZAGREBIANS LOVE THEIR CITY.
THANKS TO NEW FREEWAYS, THE ISTRIAN PENINSULA,
IN CROATIA'S NORTHWEST CORNER,
IS JUST A COUPLE HOURS' DRIVE FROM THE CAPITAL.
IN THE ISTRIAN INTERIOR,
YOU'LL FIND A THICKLY FORESTED LANDSCAPE
OF ROLLING HILLS AND FAMILY FARMS.
ISTRIA IS DOTTED WITH PICTURESQUE HILL TOWNS,
STRIPED WITH VINEYARDS,
AND BUSY WITH HARDWORKING FARMERS.
DRAMATICALLY SITUATED HIGH ABOVE THE VINEYARDS,
MOTOVUN IS ISTRIA'S MOST POPULAR HILL TOWN.
ITS MODEST MAIN SQUARE
IS THE ONLY FLAT PLACE IN TOWN --
IDEAL FOR BUDDING SOCCER STARS.
THE CHURCH'S CRENELLATED TOWER IS A REMINDER THAT
THESE TOWNS WERE BUILT ON HILLTOPS
NOT FOR THE VIEW, BUT FOR PROTECTION.
BUT TODAY, STROLLING THE RAMPARTS, IT'S CLEAR --
THE PANORAMA IS A BIG PART OF THE TOWN'S APPEAL.
AS THE DAY ENDS, THE SQUARE IS MADE TO ORDER
FOR AL FRESCO DINING.
I FIND THAT SOMETIMES
THE BEST EXPERIENCES DON'T COME TO YOU -- YOU NEED TO FIND THEM.
AN AFTER-DINNER STROLL WITH A SENSE OF CURIOSITY
GETS ME A SEAT AT THE REHEARSAL OF THE LOCAL KLAPA GROUP.
[ SINGING IN CROATIAN ]
A SHORT DRIVE TO THE COAST TAKES US TO ROVINJ,
MY FAVORITE STOP BETWEEN DUBROVNIK AND VENICE.
THE TOWN RISES DRAMATICALLY FROM THE ADRIATIC,
AS IF BEING PULLED UP TO HEAVEN BY ITS GRAND BELL TOWER.
THE CHURCH THAT CROWNS ROVINJ IS DEDICATED TO
THE 4th-CENTURY MARTYR ST. EUPHEMIA.
HER STATUE FUNCTIONS AS A WEATHER VANE.
SCALING THE CHURCH BELL TOWER'S
CREAKY WOODEN STAIRWAY REQUIRES AN ENDURING FAITH
IN THE RELIABILITY OF WOOD.
FROM THE TOP IS
A COMMANDING VIEW, AND, IF YOU'RE HERE
AT HIGH NOON, AN EAR-SPLITTING MEMORY.
[ BELLS RINGING ]
THE TOWN'S HISTORY CREATED ITS CURRENT SHAPE.
MEDIEVAL ROVINJ WAS A WALLED ISLAND.
BECAUSE IT OFFERED SAFE HARBOR
FROM BOTH PIRATES AND THE PLAGUE,
ROVINJ BECAME EXTREMELY CROWDED.
THAT EXPLAINS TODAY'S
PLEASANTLY CLAUSTROPHOBIC OLD TOWN.
LIKE THE REST OF THE CROATIAN COAST,
ROVINJ WAS PART OF THE VENETIAN EMPIRE FOR CENTURIES,
AND ISTRIA REMAINED PART OF ITALY UNTIL AFTER WORLD WAR II.
THAT'S WHY THIS REGION IS ENTHUSIASTICALLY BILINGUAL --
AN ENGAGING MIX OF CROATIA AND ITALY.
ROVINJ'S VIBRANT MARKET IS A FUN PLACE
TO SHOP FOR A PICNIC AND SNACK ON FREE SAMPLES.
DOBAR DAN.
DOBAR DAN.
[ SPEAKING CROATIAN ]
DOBRO?
NICE, THANK YOU.
IT ALSO HAS A GIFTY CORNER WHERE SALESMEN TEMPT
VISITING TOURISTS WITH THE LOCAL SPECIALTIES.
SO, WHITE TRUFFLE PASTE.
WHITE TRUFFLE, YES.
VERY NICE, DOBRO.
THANK YOU.
NO SOUVENIR, EAT IT, OKAY?
ALL RIGHT, THANK YOU, CIAO, BYE.
THE TWISTING BACK LANES OF CRUMBLING OLD ROVINJ
SEEM DESIGNED FOR A PHOTO SAFARI.
ARCHES SPAN NARROW ALLEYS WHICH OPEN INTO HIDDEN COURTYARDS.
THE MAIN DRAG LEADING UP TO THE TOP OF THE ISLAND
IS LINED WITH ART GALLERIES.
UNDERSTANDABLY, ARTISTS LOVE ROVINJ.
AND SO DO ROMANTICS.
AT THE VALENTINO BAR,
THE OLD TOWN TUMBLES RIGHT INTO THE SEA.
IT'S A MEMORABLE PLACE TO CAP YOUR ROVINJ DAY.
GRAB A CUSHION AND SETTLE INTO A COZY STONE NOOK.
ENJOY A DRINK,
YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER,
AND THE ADRIATIC SUNSET.
CROATIA IS CLEARLY COMING INTO ITS OWN.
WITH EACH VISIT, I'M IMPRESSED BY ITS COMPLEXITY,
ITS NATURAL WONDERS, AND ITS VIBRANT SPIRIT.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
I'M RICK STEVES.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.
CUCKOO, CUCKOO!
THIS TIME, WE'RE TRYING TO FIGURE OUT
HOW TO EAT THE SCAMPI IN CROATIA.
THEY PAINTED IN A FIGURATIVE STYLE.
THEY PAINTED IN A FIGURATIVE WAY,
WHILE THE REST OF THE ART WORLD WAS EMBRACING
AN INCREASINGLY ABSTRACT STYLE.
[ LAUGHS, SNORTS ]
