BON DIA, I'M RICK STEVES,
BACK WITH MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME, WE'RE IN THE LAND OF PICASSO, GAUDÍ,
SALVADOR DALÍ, AND CAFE CON LECHE.
IT'S BARCELONA.
BARCELONA!
[ LAUGHING ]
BARCELONA IS SPAIN'S SECOND CITY AND THE CAPITAL
OF THE PROUD AND DISTINCT REGION OF CATALUNYA.
WITH FRANCO'S FASCISM NOW LONG GONE,
CATALUNYA'S INDEPENDENT AND CREATIVE SPIRIT
IS ON A ROLL.
MANY VISITORS FIND THIS TO BE
SPAIN'S MOST VIBRANT AND COSMOPOLITAN CORNER.
WE'LL HAVE SOME FUN ON THE RAMBLAS,
EXPERIENCE PICASSO'S EVER-CHANGING ART,
SAMPLE THE CITY'S TAPAS,
AND THEN GO ON A TOUR OF MODERNISTE ARCHITECTURE,
CULMINATING IN GAUDÍ'S UNFINISHED MASTERPIECE.
ALL THIS BEFORE VENTURING TO THE SKY-HIGH MONASTERY
OF MONTSERRAT AND FINISHING
ON THE COSTA BRAVA
WITH THE ALWAYS PROVOCATIVE SALVADOR DALÍ.
SPAIN FILLS MOST OF THE IBERIAN PENINSULA.
THE NORTHEAST CORNER IS CATALUNYA.
WE'LL EXPLORE ITS LEADING CITY, BARCELONA,
BEFORE SIDE-TRIPPING TO MONTSERRAT,
FIGUERES, AND CADAQUES.
BARCELONA HAS A RICH HISTORY --
ROMAN COLONY, DARK AGE VISIGOTHIC CAPITAL,
14th-CENTURY MARITIME POWER.
AND BEYOND ALL ITS GREAT SIGHTS, BE SURE TO APPRECIATE
ITS ELEGANT SENSE OF STYLE
AND ITS MEDITERRANEAN KNACK FOR GOOD LIVING.
THE CITY'S MAIN SQUARE, PLAZA CATALUNYA,
IS THE CENTER OF THE WORLD
FOR SEVEN MILLION CATALáN PEOPLE.
IT'S A LIVELY PEOPLE SCENE
THROUGHOUT THE DAY.
THE SQUARE IS DECORATED WITH STATUES
HONORING IMPORTANT CATALANS.
CATALUNYA HAS ITS OWN DISTINCT
LANGUAGE, HISTORY, AND FLAG,
WHICH LOCALS FLY PROUDLY NEXT TO SPAIN'S FLAGS
ON GOVERNMENT BUILDINGS
AND ALL ALONE FROM THEIR APARTMENTS.
CATALUNYA HAS OFTEN BEEN AT ODDS
WITH THE CENTRAL SPANISH GOVERNMENT IN MADRID.
DURING THE 1930s, THIS AREA
WAS ONE OF THE LAST POCKETS OF RESISTANCE
AGAINST THE FASCIST DICTATOR FRANCISCO FRANCO.
WHEN HE FINALLY TOOK POWER, HE PUNISHED THE REGION
WITH FOUR DECADES OF REPRESSION.
DURING THIS PERIOD, THE PEOPLE WERE FORBIDDEN
TO FLY THE CATALUNYAN FLAG.
INSTEAD, TO SHOW THEIR NATIONAL SPIRIT,
THEY FLEW THIS -- THE FLAG OF THE BARCELONA SOCCER TEAM.
CATALANS CONSIDER THEMSELVES NOT PART OF A REGION --
THAT'S WHAT SPAIN CALLS THEM --
BUT A NATION WITHOUT A STATE.
[ BRASS BAND PLAYING ]
VIVA CATALUNYA!
Steves: THE CATALAN LANGUAGE IS IRREVOCABLY TIED
TO THE SPIRIT AND HISTORY
OF THE CATALAN PEOPLE.
SURE, EVERYONE SPEAKS SPANISH.
BUT THESE KIDS SPEAK CATALAN FIRST.
[ SINGING IN CATALAN ]
[ FLAMENCO GUITAR PLAYING ]
Steves: BARCELONA'S EVER-POPULAR STROLLING BOULEVARD
IS THE RAMBLAS.
WHILE SOUVENIR SHOPS
AND CROWDS OF TOURISTS
HAVE DILUTED ITS FORMER ELEGANCE,
IT STILL OFFERS AN ENTERTAINING INTRODUCTION
TO THE CITY.
THE RAMBLAS BIRD MARKET IS A HIT WITH KIDS.
TRADITIONALLY, CHILDREN BRING
THEIR PARENTS HERE TO BUY PETS.
APARTMENT DWELLERS FIND BIRDS,
FISH, AND BUNNIES
EASIER TO HANDLE THAN DOGS AND CATS.
[ BIRDS CHIRPING ]
LA BOQUERIA,
JUST STEPS OFF THE BUSY BOULEVARD,
IS BARCELONA'S LIVELY FISH AND PRODUCE MARKET.
LOCALS SHOP IN THE MORNING
FOR THE BEST AND FRESHEST SELECTION.
THEY SAY IF YOU CAN'T FIND IT AT THE BOQUERIA,
IT'S NOT WORTH EATING.
WHEREVER I TRAVEL, I ENJOY
THE CAFES AND LITTLE EATERIES IN THE MARKETS.
HERE AT THE PENOCHO BAR,
EVEN WHILE HE AND HIS FAMILY
ARE BUSY FEEDING SHOPPERS,
FLAMBOYANT JUAN IS HAPPY TO FLASH
HIS TRADEMARK SMILE.
BACK ON THE RAMBLAS,
THE CARNIVAL OF BARCELONA LIFE CONTINUES.
A VARIETY OF STREET ENTERTAINERS VIE CREATIVELY
FOR YOUR ATTENTION AND YOUR COINS.
HEY!
[ SQUEAKING ]
[ SQUEAKING CONTINUES ]
[ LAUGHING ]
[ CHILDREN CALLING ]
[ SCREECHING ]
[ LAUGHTER ]
Steves: THE BOTTOM OF THE RAMBLAS IS MARKED
BY THE COLUMBUS MONUMENT.
IT WAS HERE IN BARCELONA
THAT THE SPANISH KING FERDINAND AND QUEEN ISABEL
WELCOMED COLUMBUS HOME AFTER HIS FIRST TRIP TO AMERICA.
IT'S IRONIC THAT BARCELONA WOULD HONOR THE MAN
WHOSE DISCOVERIES OPENED UP NEW TRADE ROUTES
THAT ACTUALLY SHIFTED THE FOCUS OF EUROPEAN TRADE
AWAY FROM HERE ON THE MEDITERRANEAN
AND OUT TO THE ATLANTIC,
AND IN DOING SO, ACTUALLY CONTRIBUTED
TO THE DOWNFALL OF THIS CITY
AS A GREAT TRADING POWER.
BUT THRIVING BARCELONA HAS CLEARLY RECOVERED.
JUST BEYOND THE COLUMBUS MONUMENT,
A MODERN, WAVELIKE EXTENSION OF THE BOULEVARD,
CALLED THE RAMBLA DEL MAR,
STRETCHES INTO THE HARBOR.
IT LEADS TO A POPULAR MALL OF SHOPS AND EATERIES.
A GENERATION AGO,
BARCELONA'S WATERFRONT WAS AN INDUSTRIAL WASTELAND.
WITH IMPETUS PROVIDED BY THE 1992 OLYMPICS,
IT'S BEEN COMPLETELY TRANSFORMED.
THE FORMER OLYMPIC VILLAGE,
WHICH NOW HOUSES LOCALS, RATHER THAN ATHLETES,
IS MARKED BY FRANK GEHRY'S EYE-CATCHING FISH.
THE MANMADE BEACHES, A SERIES OF CRESCENTS
THAT STRETCH FOR MILES, ARE A HUGE HIT.
EACH COMES WITH LIVELY CAFES AND BARS,
AND ALL ARE LACED TOGETHER BY INVITING PROMENADES,
MUCH APPRECIATED BY STROLLERS, JOGGERS,
AND BIKERS.
SURPRISINGLY NEARBY IS BARCELONA'S GRITTY OLD CENTER,
THE GOTHIC CORNER.
IT'S A TANGLED YET INVITING GRAB BAG
OF CHARMING SQUARES,
ROWDY SCHOOL YARDS...
[ CHILDREN PLAYING ]
RICH CULTURAL TREASURES,
AND OTHER SURPRISES.
[ GUITAR AND VIOLIN PLAYING "THE AUTUMN LEAVES" ]
STREET MUSICIANS TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE STONY ACOUSTICS.
AND THE OLD TOWN IS TRULY OLD.
TWO BOLD TOWERS DATE BACK TO THE ROMAN ERA.
THESE WERE PART OF THE OLD ROMAN WALL
THAT PROTECTED THE CITY IN ANCIENT TIMES.
THE BIG STONES AT THE BASE WERE LAID IN THE 4th CENTURY.
AND TUCKED AWAY IN A COURTYARD,
EMBEDDED IN A NONDESCRIPT OFFICE BUILDING,
IS A BIT OF THE TEMPLE WHICH ONCE CROWNED
ROMAN BARCELONA, STILL STANDING TALL.
AND NEARBY, FILLING FIVE GRAND OLD MANSIONS,
IS A HIGHLIGHT
FOR MANY VISITING BARCELONA --
THE PICASSO MUSEUM.
SINCE PABLO PICASSO SPENT HIS FORMATIVE TEENAGE YEARS
HERE IN BARCELONA,
THIS IS THE BEST COLLECTION
OF HIS EARLY ART ANYWHERE.
BY SEEING HIS YOUTHFUL REALISTIC ART,
IT'S EASIER TO APPRECIATE HIS ARTISTIC GENIUS
AND HIS LATER ABSTRACT ART.
THE MUSEUM LETS YOU TRACE THE EVOLUTION OF PICASSO'S WORK
RIGHT BACK TO HIS SCHOOLBOY DAYS.
PABLO'S EARLIEST ART IS REALISTIC AND SERIOUS.
EVEN AS A 14-YEAR-OLD, HIS PORTRAITS
OF GRIZZLED PEASANTS
SHOW IMPRESSIVE TECHNIQUE
AND PSYCHOLOGICAL INSIGHT.
HE PAINTED HIS FIRST TEACHER, WHO HAPPENED TO BE HIS FATHER.
IN THIS PORTRAIT OF HIS MOTHER,
PICASSO WORKS ON THE EXPRESSION IN HER CAMEO-LIKE FACE.
AT ART SCHOOL, HE CAPTURED THE HUMAN ANATOMY BRILLIANTLY.
DURING THESE YEARS, PABLO LEARNED
THE RULES HE WOULD LATER
SO EXPERTLY BREAK.
HIS SELF-PORTRAITS SHOW THE SELF-AWARENESS
OF A BLOSSOMING INTELLECT, A KID WHO,
I IMAGINE, WAS A HANDFUL IN JUNIOR HIGH SCHOOL.
AS A 15-YEAR-OLD, PABLO DUTIFULLY
ENTERED ART SCHOOL COMPETITIONS.
THIS WAS HIS DEBUT WORK, THE FIRST COMMUNION.
WHILE A RELIGIOUS SUBJECT, IT'S MORE AN EXCUSE
TO PAINT HIS FAMILY.
NOTICE HIS SISTER'S EXQUISITELY PAINTED VEIL.
IN SCIENCE AND CHARITY, PICASSO, STILL JUST A TEENAGER,
CONVEYS REAL FEELING.
THE DOCTOR -- PABLO'S FATHER, AGAIN --
REPRESENTS SCIENCE.
THE NUN REPRESENTS CHARITY AND RELIGION.
JUDGING BY
HER HOPELESS FACE AND THE LIFELESS HAND,
IT SEEMS PABLO WANTS TO SHOW THAT DEATH
IS INEVITABLE.
IN HIS EARLY 20s, PICASSO WENT TO
TURN-OF-THE-CENTURY PARIS,
A CITY FILLED WITH LIGHT AND LIFE AND LOVE.
HE WENT BOHEMIAN, MADE FRIENDS WITH PROSTITUTES,
POETS, AND OTHER ARTISTS.
HE DABBLED IN DIFFERENT STYLES AND WAS INSPIRED
BY THE LEADING ARTISTS OF THE AGE.
HE PAINTED IMPRESSIONIST LANDSCAPES LIKE MONET,
POSTERS, LIKE TOULOUSE-LAUTREC,
STILL LIFES, LIKE CEZANNE,
AND GARISHLY COLORED FAUVIST WORKS, LIKE HENRI MATISSE.
BUT LATER THE SUICIDE OF HIS BEST FRIEND
AND HIS OWN POVERTY LED PICASSO
TO HIS "BLUE PERIOD."
HE PRODUCED LOTS OF BLUE PAINTINGS,
WHICH MATCHED HIS MOOD.
BY THIS POINT, PICASSO HAS DEVELOPED
A DISTINCT STYLE OF HIS OWN,
PAINTING NOT WHAT HE SEES,
BUT WHAT HE FEELS.
DESPAIR, A TOUCHING PORTRAIT
OF A MOTHER AND CHILD,
CAPTURES THE PERIOD WELL.
EVENTUALLY EMERGING FROM HIS BLUES,
PICASSO ENJOYED A LONG, INNOVATIVE,
AND PROLIFIC CAREER
AS A MATURE ARTIST,
FREED FROM BORING REALISM
AND THE CONSTRAINTS OF CONVENTION.
ALL HIS LIFE, PICASSO SAID,
"PAINTINGS ARE LIKE WINDOWS OPEN TO THE WORLD."
THESE CANVASES, PAINTED WHEN THE ARTIST WAS IN HIS 80s,
SHOW THE JOYS OF THE SUN-SPLASHED FRENCH RIVIERA.
TO THE END, PICASSO CONTINUED EXPLORING
AND LOVING LIFE THROUGH HIS ART.
AS A CHILD, HE WAS TAUGHT TO PAINT AS AN ADULT.
AND AS AN OLD MAN, HE DECLARED HE HAD LEARNED
TO PAINT LIKE A CHILD.
BARCELONA BOASTS AN ENTICING VARIETY
OF TAPAS BARS.
SOME ARE COLORFUL HOLES IN WALLS,
GIVING A GLIMPSE OF THE CRUSTY BARCELONA
FROM BEFORE ITS RECENT
PROSPERITY TOOK HOLD.
EACH SEEMS TO HAVE A SPECIALTY.
HERE, IT'S LITTLE PLATES OF DELICIOUS SARDINES
AND GLASSES OF RUSTIC WINE STRAIGHT FROM THE KEG --
REALLY CHEAP, YET RICH WITH MEMORIES.
SOME ARE FROM A DIFFERENT REGION OF SPAIN,
LIKE THIS BASQUE BAR
SERVING DELIGHTFUL LITTLE OPEN-FACED SANDWICHES.
HUNGRY DINERS GRAB A STOOL, MAKE A FRIEND OVER A CANYA -- THAT'S A GLASS OF LOCAL DRAFT BEER --
AND HAPPILY SUCCUMB TO THE TEMPTATION,
AS FRESH PLATTERS ARE PARADED OUT OF THE KITCHEN.
IN THESE PLACES, JUST LET THE TOOTHPICKS PILE UP.
WHEN IT'S TIME TO PAY,
SIMPLY COUNT YOUR TOOTHPICKS.
AND MOST POPULAR THESE DAYS
ARE THE MODERN AND TRENDY TAPAS BARS.
EATERS COBBLE TOGETHER A TASTY MEAL
OF LITTLE PLATES.
THE KEY HERE -- VARIETY.
THE 19th CENTURY WAS A BOOM TIME FOR BARCELONA.
BY 1850, THE CITY WAS BUSTING OUT OF ITS MEDIEVAL WALLS.
A NEW TOWN, CALLED EIXAMPLE, OR "EXPANSION,"
WAS PLANNED TO FOLLOW A GRID-LIKE LAYOUT.
WIDE SIDEWALKS, GRACEFUL SHADE TREES,
CHIC SHOPS, AND PLENTY OF ART NOUVEAU FRILLS
MAKE THE CAREFULLY PLANNED
EIXAMPLE DISTRICT A REFRESHING BREAK
FROM THE DENSE OLD CITY.
BUILDING CORNERS WERE SNIPPED OFF,
TO CREATE LIGHT AND SPACIOUS,
EIGHT-SIDED SQUARES AT EVERY INTERSECTION.
THE VISION OF THE EIXAMPLE WAS TO HAVE EVERYTHING
EQUALLY ACCESSIBLE TO EVERYONE.
EACH DISTRICT OF ABOUT 20 SQUARE BLOCKS
WOULD HAVE ITS OWN MARKET, HOSPITAL,
SCHOOLS, PARK, AND DAY CARE.
WHILE THE ORIGINAL VISION WAS AN EGALITARIAN ONE
WHERE EACH ZONE WAS EQUAL,
THE EIXAMPLE BECAME AN ARCHITECTURAL SHOWCASE
FOR ITS WEALTHY RESIDENTS.
WHILE ADHERING TO HEIGHT AND WIDTH LIMITATIONS,
THEY BUILT AS THEY PLEASED --
OFTEN IN THE TRENDY STYLE OF THE DAY,
MODERNISME.
MODERNISME IS THE CATALAN
VERSION OF ART NOUVEAU,
WHICH FLOURISHED
ACROSS EUROPE IN THE LATE 19th CENTURY.
BARCELONA WAS THE CAPITAL
OF MODERNISME.
AND ESPECIALLY HERE IN THE EIXAMPLE, IT SHIMMERS WITH ITS CHARACTERISTIC
COLORFUL, LEAFY, FLOWING, AND BLOOMING SHAPES.
SEVERAL OF BARCELONA'S TOP MANSIONS
LINE THE BOULEVARD PASSEIG DE GRACIA.
BECAUSE THE STRUCTURES LOOK AS THOUGH
THEY'RE TRYING TO OUTDO EACH OTHER
IN CREATIVE TWISTS,
LOCALS NICKNAMED THIS STRETCH
"THE BLOCK OF DISCORD."
BARCELONA IS AN ARCHITECTURAL SCRAPBOOK
OF THE GALLOPING GABLES AND ORGANIC CURVES
OF THE MOST FAMOUS MODERNISTE ARCHITECT,
HOMETOWN BOY ANTONI GAUDÍ.
HIS CASA MILA IS BARCELONA'S
QUINTESSENTIAL BUILDING FROM THIS ERA.
CASA MILA IS OPEN TO THE PUBLIC.
IT SHOWS HOW THE ORGANIC SENSITIVITIES
OF MODERNISTE ARCHITECTURE FLOWED INTO THE DOMESTIC WORLD.
THIS APARTMENT WOULD HAVE BEEN RENTED BY A WEALTHY BUSINESSMAN.
IT SHOWS HOW THE AFFLUENCE
OF THE INDUSTRIAL AGE WAS ENJOYED
ON A PERSONAL LEVEL -- AT LEAST BY THE UPPER CLASS.
NOW AN APARTMENT COULD BE A SMALL PALACE.
GAUDÍ'S MOST FAMOUS WORK IS HIS UNFINISHED
CHURCH OF THE HOLY FAMILY, OR SAGRADA FAMILIA.
HE WORKED ON IT FOR OVER 40 YEARS,
UNTIL HIS DEATH IN 1926.
WORK CONTINUES ON THE CHURCH, WHICH IS NOT EXPECTED
TO BE COMPLETED FOR ANOTHER 50 YEARS.
THE NATIVITY FACADE, THE ONLY PART OF THE CHURCH
ESSENTIALLY FINISHED IN GAUDÍ'S LIFETIME,
SHOWS THE ARCHITECT'S ORIGINAL VISION.
MIXING CHRISTIAN SYMBOLISM,
IMAGES FROM NATURE,
AND THE ORGANIC FLAIR OF MODERNISME, IT'S AN IMPRESSIVE EXAMPLE
OF GAUDÍ'S UNMISTAKABLE STYLE.
THE MORE MODERN PASSION FACADE
HAS A DIFFERENT, YET COMPLEMENTARY, STYLE.
IN THE SOARING NAVE,
GAUDÍ'S COLUMNS BLOSSOM WITH LIFE.
GAUDÍ WAS A DEVOUT CATHOLIC.
PART OF HIS RELIGIOUS VISION
WAS A LOVE FOR NATURE.
HE SAID, "NOTHING IS INVENTED,
FOR IT'S WRITTEN IN NATURE FIRST."
HIS LITTLE WINDOWS LET LIGHT FILTER IN
LIKE THE CANOPY OF A RAIN FOREST,
CREATING SPACE FOR AN INTIMATE CONNECTION WITH GOD.
STEPPING INTO THIS MONUMENTAL CONSTRUCTION ZONE,
VISITORS SEE THE SLOW AND STEADY PROGRESS
AND WHAT THEIR STEEP ADMISSION FEE IS FUNDING.
LIKE THE CONSTRUCTION
OF GREAT CHURCHES THROUGH THE AGES,
THIS PROJECT TAKES MANY LIFETIMES.
GAUDÍ KNEW HE'D NEVER
SEE IT FINISHED, AS DO THE ARCHITECTS
WORKING ON IT TODAY.
YET THEY ALL CONTRIBUTE, PUSHING STEADILY
TOWARD COMPLETION.
SOMEDAY A CENTRAL 550-FOOT-TALL TOWER OF JESUS
WILL RISE ABOVE ALL THIS.
IT'LL DWARF EVERYTHING WE SEE TODAY.
THE VISION -- TO SHINE LIKE A SPIRITUAL LIGHTHOUSE,
VISIBLE EVEN FROM OUT AT SEA.
IF THERE'S ONE BUILDING ON EARTH I'D LIKE TO SEE,
IT'S SAGRADA FAMILIA, FINISHED.
FOR A MORE PLAYFUL DOSE OF GAUDÍ'S ARCHITECTURAL GENIUS,
WE'RE HEADING OUT TO HIS COLORFUL PARK GUELL.
WHILE TODAY THE GRAND STAIRWAY AND ITS WELCOMING LIZARD
ARE OVERWHELMED BY FUN-SEEKERS,
GAUDÍ INTENDED THIS 30-ACRE GARDEN
TO BE A 60-RESIDENCE HOUSING PROJECT,
A KIND OF GATED COMMUNITY.
FANCIFUL VIADUCTS COMPLEMENT THE NATURAL LANDSCAPE.
GAUDÍ ACTUALLY LIVED IN THIS MANSION.
AS A HIGH-END HOUSING DEVELOPMENT,
THE PROJECT FLOPPED.
BUT A CENTURY LATER, AS A PARK,
IT'S A HUGE SUCCESS.
AS YOU WANDER, IMAGINE THAT THE COMMUNITY SUCCEEDED
AND YOU ARE ONE OF ITS LUCKY RESIDENTS.
HERE AT THE HALL OF 100 COLUMNS --
THE INTENDED PRODUCE MARKET --
YOU'D ENJOY THE FANCIFUL COLUMNS
AND DECOR WHILE YOU DID A LITTLE SHOPPING.
HEADING HOME, YOU'D STROLL DOWN THE PLAYFUL ARCADE.
LIKE A SURFER'S PERFECT TUBE,
IT'S ANOTHER NATURE-INSPIRED GAUDÍ FANCY.
AND ON SUCH A BEAUTIFUL DAY,
YOU'D SIT A SPELL ON GAUDÍ'S ERGONOMIC BENCHES
TO ENJOY A GRAND VIEW OF THIS GRAND CITY.
[ FLAMENCO GUITAR PLAYING ]
AN HOUR INLAND FROM BARCELONA
TAKES US TO A MOUNTAIN STRONGHOLD
WHICH MANY CONSIDER THE HEART OF CATALUNYA.
A TELEFERIQUE ZOOMS VISITORS UP
TO THE DRAMATICALLY SITUATED MONASTERY OF MONTSERRAT.
MONTSERRAT MEANS "THE SERRATED MOUNTAIN."
AND YOU SEE WHY, AS YOU APPROACH.
HYMNS EXPLAIN HOW THE MOUNTAIN WAS CARVED BY LITTLE ANGELS
WITH GOLDEN SAWS.
GEOLOGISTS BLAME
NATURE AT WORK.
WITH ITS DRAMATIC MOUNTAINTOP MONASTERY
AND SPIRITUAL CONNECTION
WITH THE CATALAN PEOPLE AND THEIR STRUGGLES,
MONTSERRAT IS A REWARDING DAY TRIP
FROM BARCELONA.
IT'S BEEN CATALUNYA'S MOST IMPORTANT PILGRIMAGE SITE
FOR 1,000 YEARS.
THE MONASTERY WAS DESTROYED BY NAPOLEON.
THEN, IN THE 1850s, THE MONKS RETURNED
AS PART OF CATALUNYA'S AND EUROPE'S
RENEWED ROMANTIC APPRECIATION
OF THINGS RELIGIOUS, MEDIEVAL, AND NATIONALISTIC.
THEY REBUILT THE PLACE, AND MONTSERRAT BECAME
ONCE AGAIN THE SPIRITUAL AND CULTURAL HEART
OF THE CATALAN PEOPLE.
A HANDFUL OF BENEDICTINE MONKS
CARRY ON THE MONASTERY'S SPIRITUAL TRADITION.
SINCE 1025, THE SLOGAN
ORA ET LABORA -- "PRAYER AND WORK" --
PRETTY MUCH SUMS UP LIFE FOR A MONK UP HERE.
THE BENEDICTINES WELCOME VISITORS,
BOTH PILGRIMS AND TOURISTS,
IN HOPES THAT THEY'LL EXPERIENCE
THE SPIRITUAL POWER OF MONTSERRAT.
MONTSERRAT'S TOP ATTRACTION IS LA MORENETA, A SMALL WOOD STATUE OF THE BLACK VIRGIN,
DISCOVERED HERE IN THE 12th CENTURY.
LEGEND SAYS SHE WAS CARVED BY ST. LUKE,
BUT CARBON DATING SAYS SHE'S ONLY 800 YEARS OLD.
PILGRIMS CIRCULATE DOWN A LONG AND ORNATE PASSAGE
LEADING ALONGSIDE THE CHURCH
FOR THEIR FEW MOMENTS ALONE WITH THE VIRGIN.
PILGRIMS TOUCH THE VIRGIN'S ORB
TO SEEK MARY'S BLESSING.
FOR A RADICALLY DIFFERENT SLICE
OF CATALUNYA, WE'RE HEADING NORTH UP THE COSTA BRAVA --
THE TOWN OF FIGUERES HAS THE SALVADOR DALÍ MUSEUM,
THE ESSENTIAL DALÍ SITE.
EVER THE ENTERTAINER AND PROMOTER,
DALÍ PERSONALLY
DESIGNED, DECORATED, AND PAINTED IT
TO SHOWCASE HIS LIFE'S WORK.
HE WAS BURIED
RIGHT HERE IN THE FLOOR OF THIS ROOM
IN 1989, AND THE MUSEUM SERVES
AS A MAUSOLEUM TO THE ARTIST'S CREATIVE SPIRIT.
WHEN SALVADOR DALÍ WAS ASKED,
"ARE YOU ON DRUGS," HE REPLIED,
"I AM THE DRUG.
TAKE ME."
DALÍ PRODUCED SOME OF THE MOST THOUGHT-PROVOKING
AND TRAILBLAZING ART OF THE 20th CENTURY.
HIS SURREALISTIC IMAGERY CONTINUES TO DISTURB
AND INTRIGUE TO THIS DAY.
THE BEST KNOWN OF THE SURREALISTS,
DALÍ CREATED PHOTO-REALISTIC IMAGES
SET IN BIZARRE DREAMSCAPES.
HIS LIFE CHANGED FOREVER IN 1929,
WHEN HE MET AN OLDER RUSSIAN WOMAN
NAMED GALA.
SHE BECAME HIS WIFE, MUSE, MODEL,
MANAGER, AND EMOTIONAL COMPASS.
AN AUDIENCE OF GOLDEN STATUES LOOKS DOWN ON THE MUSEUM.
ABOVE DALÍ'S PERSONAL 1941 CADILLAC
HANGS THE BOAT ENJOYED BY DALÍ AND HIS SOUL MATE, GALA.
WHEN SHE DIED, HE WAS DEVASTATED.
BELOW THE BOAT DRIP BLUE TEARS.
SQUINT AT THE BIG DIGITAL ABRAHAM LINCOLN,
AND HE COMES INTO FOCUS.
LOOK CLOSER, AND YOU SEE ABE'S FACIAL CHEEKS
ARE GALA'S OTHER CHEEKS.
"THE HOMAGE TO MAE WEST" ROOM
IS A TRIBUTE TO THE SULTRY SEDUCTRESS.
DALÍ LOVED HER ATTITUDE.
SHE WAS TO CONVENTIONAL MORALITY
WHAT HE WAS TO CONVENTIONAL ART.
FACIAL FEATURES ARE FURNITURE,
ARRANGED SO THAT,
THE INTENDED VANTAGE POINT,
EVERYTHING COMES TOGETHER.
MAE WEST.
THE CEILING OF THE LOUNGE IS A HIGHLIGHT.
IT SHOWS GALA AND DALÍ
AS THEY REACH FOR THE HEAVENS.
DALÍ'S DRAWERS ARE WIDE OPEN
AND EMPTY, INDICATING HE GAVE EVERYTHING TO HIS ART.
DALÍ ENJOYED HIS MOST CREATIVE YEARS NEARBY
IN THE FISHING VILLAGE OF CADAQUES,
WHICH HAS LONG BEEN A HAVEN
FOR INTELLECTUALS AND ARTISTS ALIKE.
[ SEAGULLS SQUAWKING ]
ITS CRAGGY COASTLINE, SUN-DRENCHED COLORS,
AND LAID-BACK LIFESTYLE INSPIRED ARTISTS
FROM MATISSE AND DUCHAMP
TO PICASSO.
FOR TODAY'S TOURISTS, MELLOW CADAQUES
OFFERS A PEACEFUL BEACH-TOWN ESCAPE NEAR BARCELONA.
IN THE 1920s, SALVADOR DALÍ AND GALA MOVED IN,
BRINGING INTERNATIONAL FAME TO THIS SLEEPY CATALAN PORT.
CASA DALÍ SHOWS HOW A HOME CAN REFLECT
THE CREATIVE SPIRIT OF AN ARTISTIC GENIUS AND HIS MUSE.
HIS STUDIO WAS EQUIPPED WITH AN INNOVATIVE EASEL.
IT CRANKED UP AND DOWN TO ALLOW THE ARTIST
TO PAINT WHILE SEATED, AS HE DID EIGHT HOURS A DAY.
THE BOHEMIAN YET DIVINE LIVING ROOM
COMES COMPLETE WITH A MIRROR TO REFLECT
THE SUNRISE ONTO THEIR BED EACH MORNING.
LIKE DALÍ'S ART, HIS HOME DEFIES CONVENTION.
AND LIKE THE ARTIST HIMSELF,
IT'S PLAYFUL AND PROVOCATIVE.
DALÍ'S PLACE IS THE MOST ENJOYABLE
ARTIST'S HOME I'VE TOURED ANYWHERE IN EUROPE.
AND IT'S JUST ONE MORE EXAMPLE
OF THE QUIRKY AND CREATIVE SPIRIT OF CATALUNYA --
A SPIRIT THAT GIVES BARCELONA AND THIS CORNER OF SPAIN
A DISTINCT CHARM.
THANKS FOR JOINING US.
I'M RICK STEVES.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELING.
ADÉU.