Ball & Socket Embroidery Stand, Part 2
Season 27 Episode 3 | 26m 46s | Video has closed captioning.
Steam bent hoops and wooden adjusting screws complete the embroidery stand.
Aired: 09/14/07
Problems Playing Video? | Closed Captioning
Season 27 Episode 3 | 26m 46s | Video has closed captioning.
Steam bent hoops and wooden adjusting screws complete the embroidery stand.
Aired: 09/14/07
Problems Playing Video? | Closed Captioning
MAJOR FUNDING FOR "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" IS PROVIDED BY... MORE THAN 40 MILLION PEOPLE WHO CARE FOR THEIR CARS AND HOMES CHOOSE STATE FARM FOR THEIR INSURANCE.
STATE FARM, A PROUD SUPPORTER OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."
HEY.
HELLO AGAIN.
WELCOME BACK TO "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."
I'M ROY UNDERHILL.
SO GLAD YOU CAN BE WITH ME AGAIN TODAY BECAUSE MY STEAMBOX IS HOT, BUT I AM NOT.
SO WE BETTER GET TO WORK AND FINISH UP OUR STANDING EMBROIDERY HOOP.
THIS IS A LITTLE BALL AND SOCKET ADJUSTABLE EMBROIDERY HOOP FROM THE WYTHE HOUSE IN WILLIAMSBURG.
NOW, LAST TIME WE GOT TOGETHER, WE GOT THIS FAR.
NOT MUCH GOOD.
WE STILL NEED THE LEGS.
WE'VE GOT TO DO ALL THIS UPPER BUSINESS TO IT.
SO LET'S TAKE IT APART AND SEE WHAT WE NEED TO DO.
AND, OF COURSE, WE HAVE THE HOOPS, AND THAT'S WHY I HAVE THE STEAMBOX HOT.
THESE HOOPS--THE OUTER ONE AND THEN THE INNER ONE, WHICH IS WRAPPED IN KIND OF A BIAS TAPE TO MAKE IT NICE.
WE'VE GOT TO DO THIS YOKE HERE THAT HOLDS IT ALL TOGETHER.
AND WE NEED TO MAKE THE BALL.
LET'S GET THAT OUT RIGHT THERE.
AND THIS ISrTHE COOL TH.
IT HAS THIS BALL AND SOCKET JOINT THAT YOU CAN LOOSEN UP AND ADJUST, AND IT HAS THIS SET SCREW.
WE'LL MAKE THAT.
GET THAT BALL OUT OF THERE.
AND THERE IT IS.
THERE'S OUR BALL AND THE SOCKET.
AND THEN, OF COURSE, IT'S NOT GOING TO BE MUCH GOOD UNLESS WE HAVE THE LEGS.
SO WE'VE GOT TO DO THE LEGS FOR THIS WONDERFUL LITTLE STANDING EMBROIDERY HOOP.
SO, WHERE DO WE BEGIN?
WELL, I'VE GOT THE STEAMBOX HOT, AND IT'S GOING TO TAKE 20 MINUTES TO STEAM OUR STRIPS THAT MAKE THE HOOPS.
SO LET'S BEGIN WITH THAT.
NOW, IN CHOOSING WOOD TO... YOU KNOW, MAPLE, OAK, WHITE OAK, HICKORY, WHATEVER YOU CHOOSE TO MAKE STUFF FOR STEAM BENDING, THERE'S THE ONE THING YOU DON'T NEED, AND THAT IS KILN-DRIED STOCK.
YOU WANT AIR-DRIED STOCK.
AND I'M LAYING THIS OUT HERE-- INCH AND A QUARTER WIDE.
I'VE RUN DOWN A QUARTER-INCH ON BOTH SIDES.
AND YOU JUST RIP IT.
GET THE RIPSAW AND... RIP ON DOWN THE LINE.
AND, OF COURSE, YOU WANT TO RIP IT AS ACCURATELY AS POSSIBLE.
I'VE GOT THE PIECE THAT CAME FROM THE MILL ON THE OUTSIDE, BUT THE KEY TO ACCURATE RIPPING ON BOTH SIDES IS TO STOP RIPPING EVERY SO OFTEN AND TURN THE PIECE AROUND AND RIP FROM THE OTHER SIDE.
AND THAT'S ALL THERE IS TO IT.
LET ME PUT THAT GAUGE LINE ON THERE AGAIN.
ALL RIGHT.
AGAIN, A QUARTER-INCH THICK, AND THEN RIP FROM THIS SIDE FOR A LITTLE BIT.
AND NOT ONLY DOES THAT GIVE YOU AN ACCURATE CUT, IT GIVES YOU A CHANCE TO REST WHEN YOU'RE DOING THAT.
SO ANYWAY, THIS PIECE IS GOING TO COME OFF AND GO INTO THE STEAMBOX AFTER WE SCRAPE IT.
SO, I HAVE A PIECE LAID OUT HERE.
AND I'VE CLAMPED IT BACK AT THE END OF THE BENCH HERE.
SO IT'S ALREADY ON THERE.
AND I'VE DONE SOME SCRAPING WITH A CABINET SCRAPER.
YOU CAN JUST USE THIS STEEL CARD HERE AND SCRAPE ALONG, PARTICULARLY IF YOU'RE WORKING IN ELM, YOU KNOW, A LITTLE TEAR-UP, AND IT'S UNEVEN.
IT'S GOT TO BE VERY EVENLY THICKNESSED.
AND THE SCRAPER JUST GOES RIGHT ACROSS THE GRAIN.
NOW, THIS IS JUST A CARD SCRAPER.
THAT WORKS GREAT.
HERE'S ANOTHER TOOL THAT WILL DO WELL FOR MAKING THESE THIN STRIPS EVEN AND SMOOTH.
IT'S LIKE A SCRAPER PLANE.
SO WORK THIS ACROSS.
YOU HEAR IT TAKING OFF THE HIGH POINTS.
AND THIS IS ANOTHER GOOD TOOL.
BUT THE KEY IS TO JUST GET IT EVEN AND SMOOTH, JUST SUB A QUARTER-INCH THICK.
SO THERE YOU ARE.
THAT'S READY TO BEND NOW.
SO, AGAIN, AIR-DRIED WOOD IS THE KEY.
NOW, I HAVE 2 MORE.
I HAVE 2 STRIPS HERE.
OK.
I'M GOING TO PUT BOTH OF THESE IN.
AND THIS IS THE PART FOR THE YOKE.
YOU CAN SEE THIS PART FOR THE YOKE IS THICK HERE IN THE MIDDLE.
WE'RE GOING TO BEND THAT INTO A U-SHAPE LIKE I'VE GOT RIGHT HERE.
SO THIS HAS TO GO INTO THE STEAMER AS WELL.
SO EVERYTHING'S GOING TO GO IN THE STEAMBOX.
IT'S GOOD AND HOT.
WE'LL NEED ABOUT 20 MINUTES IN THERE.
SO I'LL GET THAT IN THERE.
THERE'S ONE GOING INSIDE.
SO I'VE GOT A KETTLE ON THE STOVE, AND HOT, HOT, HOT IT IS, YEAH.
ANOTHER ONE.
AND THEN WE'LL SET THIS ONE ON THIS SIDE AND LET THEM SIT IN THERE.
IN ABOUT 20 MINUTES, THAT SHOULD EASE IT ENOUGH THAT WE CAN BEND IT INTO THE HOOP AND IT WILL KEEP THAT SHAPE ONCE WE'RE DONE.
SO, WHAT DO WE HAVE TO DO NOW?
ALL RIGHT.
A LITTLE BIT OF TURNING NOW.
WE'VE GOT TO DO THE SOCKET HERE.
WE'VE GOT THE SOCKET DONE, ACTUALLY.
WE'VE GOT TO DO THE BALL, AND WE'VE GOT TO DO THE SET SCREW HERE.
AND THIS IS GREAT.
THIS IS OUT OF PERSIMMON WOOD.
WE'RE GOING TO DO THAT ONE.
AND THEN, OF COURSE, WE'VE ALSO GOT TO DO THESE LITTLE LEGS AND TURN THESE LEGS AND GET THEM IN.
SO LET'S DO THE TURNING NOW.
WE'LL GO TO THE TREADLE LATHE, AND I'VE GOT A PIECE OF THAT PERSIMMON IN THERE.
IT'S WONDERFUL WOOD.
THIS IS THE SHAPE WE WANT TO GET TO HERE.
AND, OF COURSE, THE SHAFT OF THE SET SCREW IS CRITICAL.
SO I'VE SET A CALIPER TO THE EXACT THICKNESS THAT I NEED AND STARTED OUT USING-- THERE WE GO, WITH THE FOOT TREADLE-- USING THE CALIPERS TO GUIDE THE CUTOFF TOOL RIGHT HERE.
AND WHEN THE CALIPERS SLIP OVER, YOU KNOW YOU'VE GOT ENOUGH.
THERE WE GO.
BRING IT ON DOWN.
ALL RIGHT.
ENOUGH OF THAT.
NOW WE'RE READY TO USE THE GOUGE.
SO WE KNOW THAT THE DEPTH IS SET.
ISN'T THAT WONDERFUL?
TURNING THAT AIR-DRIED PERSIMMON IS JUST INCREDIBLE.
ALL RIGHT, AND THEN ONCE YOU'VE BROUGHT IT DOWN WITH A GOUGE, USE A SKEW CHISEL... TO SMOOTH IT OFF.
SKEW ALL THE WAY ACROSS, AND THEN, OF COURSE, WE'VE GOT A LITTLE DECORATIVE WORK TO DO RIGHT HERE.
SO JUST A LITTLE BEAD.
AND SO FORTH TILL WE MAKE OUR SET SCREW.
ENOUGH OF THAT.
I'VE GOT OTHER THINGS WE NEED TO DO, BUT THIS IS GOING TO HAVE THE THREADS CUT INTO IT.
SO IT NEEDS TO BE PRETTY PRECISELY DONE.
NOW, HERE'S ANOTHER PIECE WE NEED, IS OF COURSE THE BALL THAT GOES INTO THAT SOCKET, AND THERE'S A LITTLE THING TO DO HERE.
TO TURN A PROPER BALL-- NOW, THERE ARE ALL KIND OF COMPLICATED WAYS, BUT ON A BALL THIS SIZE, INCH AND A QUARTER, NO PROBLEM.
JUST TURN THE DIAMETER OF THE SHAFT AND THEN TURN YOUR CALIPERS THIS WAY AND MAKE A LITTLE SCRATCH MARK AND MAKE THE CUTOFF EXACTLY THE SAME AS THE DIAMETER.
AND THEN BY EYE, YOU CAN TURN IT DOWN TO THAT BALL.
SO THIS LENGTH SAME AS DIAMETER.
THAT'S GOING TO HELP YOU GET A SPHERE.
ALL RIGHT, AND THEN, OF COURSE, WE HAVE THE LEG.
HERE'S A LEG.
I'VE GOT A LEG ABOUT READY TO GO, AND USUALLY WHAT WE'LL DO IS TURN THESE OUT, LOTS OF THEM, ALONG A LONG SHAFT AND THEN SAW THEM OFF, BUT I LIKE TO HAVE THE END THAT'S FREE READY TO GO INTO A TEST HOLE, BECAUSE THE CALIPERS JUST AREN'T ACCURATE ENOUGH FOR ME.
SO IF I HAD THIS ON HERE, IT JUST WOULDN'T WORK AS WELL.
WHAT I'LL DO IS I'LL CUT THAT OFF AND THEN TURN THE NEXT ONE AND THEN CUT IT OFF AND TURN THE NEXT ONE.
SO WE'LL DO ALL THOSE LEGS.
SO WE GOT THE BALL, GOT THE SET SCREW, GOT THE LEGS.
LET'S GO AHEAD AND PUT THEM ON, ALL RIGHT?
AND NOW WE HAVE TO BE A LITTLE MORE-- AGAIN GET SOME ACCURACY.
WE HAVE THE LEGS SPLAYED OUT.
AND GETTING AN EVEN SPLAY IS REAL KEY TO THE AESTHETIC HERE.
AND OFTEN, YOU KNOW, I DON'T DO WELL AT THIS.
I'LL JUST PUT IT THAT WAY.
3 LEGS--IT'S GOT TO BE PRETTY ACCURATE.
BUT TO GET THE EVEN SPLAY AND STRAIGHT OUT, I HAVE TO MAKE A JIG.
SO WHAT I DO IS TAKE A BEVEL AND ADJUST IT TO THE ANGLE THAT I WANT.
SO I'VE GOT THAT SET RIGHT THERE ON THE ANGLE THAT I WANT.
ALL RIGHT.
ADJUST THAT.
AND THEN USE THAT TO BORE A HOLE THROUGH KIND OF A SCRAP PIECE OF WOOD HERE.
AND I'M TURNING IT UPSIDE-DOWN BECAUSE I'M GOING TO BORE FROM THE BOTTOM.
YOU'LL SEE I HAVE A HOLE THROUGH HERE.
THAT'S MY GUIDE HOLE RIGHT THERE.
SO I HAVE A GUIDE HOLE THAT GOES THROUGH AND COMES OUT ON THE OTHER SIDE AT THAT SAME ANGLE.
SO JUST PUT A GUIDE PIECE THROUGH HERE.
AND I HAVE A CENTERING PIECE RIGHT HERE.
THIS LITTLE THING IS GOING TO CENTER IN THIS HOLE.
WELL, LET ME SEE.
I'M GOING TO GET THE OTHER ONE BECAUSE THIS IS THE ONE WE WANT TO-- BECAUSE THAT ONE ALREADY HAS LEGS ON IT.
SO I'LL TAKE THIS ONE APART, AND WE'LL CENTER ON THAT.
AFTER WE GET IT LAID OUT-- NOW, I'M GOING TO SHOW YOU HERE.
HERE'S ANOTHER BIT OF MATH WE'RE GOING TO DO.
WE HAVE TO GET THE LEGS, 3 LEGS, EVENLY SPACED.
SO HOW DO WE GET 3 LEGS EVENLY SPACED?
WELL, IT'S JUST A FUNCTION OF THE RADIUS, OR THE DIAMETER, IF YOU WISH.
TURN THIS OVER.
ON THIS ONE, I'VE ALREADY LAID OUT A CIRCLE.
I'VE DRAWN A CIRCLE ON THERE WHILE IT WAS ON THE LATHE TO SHOW ME WHERE I WANT THE LEGS SPACED.
NOW, THIS IS MY DIVIDERS HERE.
I'VE SET THE DIVIDERS FOR A RADIUS.
THEN FIND A STARTING POINT.
LET'S SAY RIGHT THERE.
AND JUST START PACING OFF.
SO I KNOW RIGHT THERE'S MY START, AND THEN I DO ONE... 2 IS GOING TO BE MY SECOND POINT.
SO THAT'S WHERE A LEG WILL GO.
3... 4... AND THAT'S MY THIRD POINT.
AND THEN IT SHOULD COME AROUND EVEN.
AND OF COURSE, THAT'S HOW YOU TEST THAT BEGINNING, TO THE VERY START AGAIN.
SEE?
SO JUST PACE AROUND 6 PACES.
EVERY OTHER ONE IS WHERE A LEG GOES.
SO NOW WE'VE DIVIDED IT EVENLY INTO THIRDS.
AND I'VE GOT THIS LITTLE JIG TO GO IN AND CENTER ON THAT SPOT.
LET'S SEE IF I FIND IT.
HERE.
I'M GOING TO DO THIS ONE HERE BECAUSE I CAN SEE IT A LITTLE BETTER.
OK. THAT'S READY TO GO.
AND WE'RE GOING TO BORE THROUGH FROM THE BOTTOM.
NOW, THAT MEANS THERE IS A PROBLEM OF COURSE, IN THAT WE COULD BREAK THROUGH ON THE TOP SIDE, AND IT WOULD BE UGLY, BECAUSE WHEN THESE AUGERS COME THROUGH, THEY INEVITABLY, YOU KNOW, LEAVE LIKE-- IT'S LIKE THE EXIT HOLE ON A BULLET.
IT'S A BIG OLD HOLE THROUGH THERE.
SO WE'RE GONNA--OOP.
NOW I'VE GOT TO REALIGN IT.
I KNOCKED IT OUT.
THERE IT IS.
ALL RIGHT.
IT DOESN'T MATTER WHERE YOU GET THAT FIRST ONE.
YOU CAN ALWAYS REDO IT.
I'M GOING TO SET THIS DOWN DEEP ENOUGH THAT I DON'T GET... DON'T BORE INTO MY CLAMP HEAD.
OOP.
NOW, LET'S SEE.
NOW HERE WE GO.
HERE'S THE HALF-INCH, AND I'LL SET THAT RIGHT THERE.
AND JUST COMING THROUGH.
SO WE'RE BORING FROM THE BOTTOM WITH THE ANGLE IN THERE RECORDED IN OUR GAUGE.
AND BORE IN UNTIL I HEAR IT GOING INTO OAK.
SO I CAN TELL I'M GOING THROUGH MAPLE RIGHT NOW, THE MAPLE DISK OF THE BOTTOM.
AND IT SHOULD SOUND AND FEEL A LITTLE DIFFERENT ONCE WE GET THROUGH INTO THE OAK, AND OF COURSE, WE'LL SEE OAK COMING THROUGH, AND I THINK I DO SEE OAK COMING THROUGH.
SO NOW WE HAVE OUR LEG HOLE READY TO GO.
AND I WANT TO MAKE THESE VERY PRECISE.
SEE, THAT CAME THROUGH, AND IT DIDN'T LEAVE AN EXIT-- IT LEFT A CLEAN EXIT RIGHT THERE.
SO HERE'S OUR LEG, READY TO GO IN.
AND I WANT TO MAKE THESE VERY TIGHT.
SO THAT'S WHY I TURN EACH ONE INDIVIDUALLY.
THAT GOES THROUGH THERE, FITS UP SNUG, WE'LL CUT OFF THE TOP.
WE'LL CUT THAT OFF THE SHAFT THERE, AND WE'VE GOT OUR LEGS ALL THE WAY AROUND.
SO WE DO OUR 3 LITTLE LEGS AROUND THE BOTTOM, JUST LIKE THAT.
ALL RIGHT.
STILL WORKING ON THIS.
WE STILL HAVE STUFF IN THE STEAMER.
SO WE HAVE GOT A LITTLE BIT MORE TO DO NOW, WORKING ON THAT SOCKET.
NOW I WANT YOU TO SEE THAT DEVICE THAT CUTS THE SOCKET.
I HAVE IT BACK HERE ON THE SPRINGPOLE LATHE.
NOW, IF YOU LOOK AT THE SOCKET, IT IS INDEED A SOCKET THAT THE BALL GOES IN.
YOU SEE?
SO IT'S WIDER ON THE INSIDE THAN IT IS ON THE OUTSIDE LIP.
LOOK AT THAT.
SO YOU CAN GET IN THERE, AND THAT BALL CAN RUN AROUND INSIDE THERE.
WELL, IT'S OBVIOUS THAT AN AUGER CAN GO IN AND CUT A HOLE THAT'S SHAPED KIND OF LIKE THIS.
SEE, I COULD JUST AUGER IN AND CUT A STRAIGHT-SHAFT HOLE, BUT IT'S NOT BIGGER ON THE SIDES TO GRASP A BALL.
IT DOESN'T HAVE THAT ATTRIBUTE.
SO WE HAVE THIS DEVICE HERE ON THE SPRINGPOLE LATHE SET UP TO DO THAT.
I'M USING THE SPRINGPOLE LATHE BECAUSE IT HAS A LOT OF TORQUE, A LOT OF POWER, AND THE DEVICE IS RIGHT HERE.
IT'S A LITTLE THING THAT ROTATES, AND AS I TURN IT, IT'S EXPANDING INSIDE THERE.
[SQUEAKING] AH, I HEAR IT SQUEAK.
THE PROBLEM IS IF YOU WAX IT TO CUT THAT NOISE DOWN, IT GRABS THE SAWDUST.
SO THERE'S SOMETHING GOING ON INSIDE THERE.
WHAT COULD IT BE?
WELL, I'M GOING TO TAKE IT APART AND LET YOU SEE.
I'M ALMOST THROUGH CUTTING THIS ONE HERE.
NOT QUITE.
ALL RIGHT.
I'M GONNA TAKE IT APART AND LET YOU LOOK INSIDE THERE AT WHAT I'VE GOT.
NOW, I HAVE A DEVICE THAT CENTERS RIGHT THERE AND THEN ROTATES.
AND IT EXPOSES MORE OR LESS OF A BLADE RIGHT THERE INSIDE.
I TELL YOU WHAT, LET'S TAKE THIS DOWN ON THE TABLE.
AND I'LL SCOOTCH DOWN, AND WE'LL SEE IT DISASSEMBLED EVEN MORE PRECISELY.
IT'S A NEAT LITTLE THING.
I GUESS THERE'S LOTS OF WAYS TO DO THIS, BUT THIS IS THE ONLY WAY I CAME UP WITH.
I DROPPED MY SCREWDRIVER HERE.
YOU CAN SEE HOW THIS FITS INTO A CYLINDRICAL HOLE THAT YOU BORE WITH AN AUGER INTO THE END GRAIN, WHICH IS NO MEAN FEAT IN ITSELF.
SO THIS THING WILL FIT ON THERE.
OOP.
SORRY.
I TURNED THAT THE WRONG WAY.
THIS WILL SLIP IN THERE.
AND THEN AS WE TURN IT, THAT SCRAPES IT AROUND TO CUT THIS KIND OF HOLLOW OPENING THAT YOU SEE RIGHT THERE.
SO THAT'S HOW TO DO IT.
AND THEN IT WILL RELEASE.
LET ME GO AHEAD AND TAKE THAT APART SO YOU CAN SEE IT.
A GREAT LITTLE THING.
PEOPLE ARE SAYING, "HOW ON EARTH DO YOU CUT THAT SOCKET?"
ACTUALLY, YOU WON'T THINK OF IT UNTIL YOU HAVE TO DO IT, AND THEN YOU THINK A LOT ABOUT, "HOW IN THE HECK AM I GOING TO CUT THAT SOCKET?
IF YOU LOOK IN DIDEROT'S ENCYCLOPEDIA, HE SHOWS BALL AND SOCKET MANNEQUIN JOINTS, BUT THEY'RE IN IRON.
SO I REALLY HAD TO COME UP WITH THIS ON MY OWN, YOU SEE.
AND THERE'S THE SHAPE OF THE PIECE THAT GOES IN THERE.
IT'S FLAT ON 2 SIDES, AND THEN WHEN YOU TURN IT, IT GOES TO THE ROUND SIDE THERE.
SO THAT'S ALL THERE IS TO IT TO CUT THESE SOCKET JOINTS UP TOP THERE.
ALL RIGHT.
SO, NOW WE'VE GOT TO DO THE SET SCREW AND SAW IT, BECAUSE WE HAVE TO HAVE IT SPRING UP AND CLAMP.
HERE IT IS.
ALL RIGHT.
SEE HOW THIS IS OPEN RIGHT THERE, SLIT DOWN?
SO WE NEED TO SAW THAT SO WE CAN HAVE THE SCREW TIGHTEN IT UP.
YOU CAN SEE THAT GAP RIGHT THERE.
AS I TURN THE SCREW, IT SQUISHES DOWN ON THE BALL.
SO THAT'S WHAT MAKES THIS THING WORK, IS A BALL AND SOCKET JOINT.
SO NOW WE HAVE TO DO THAT SAW CUT, AND AGAIN, IT'S BEEN TURNED, IT'S BEEN NICELY DONE.
SO WE WANT TO BE CAREFUL WITH IT BY USING...MAKING KIND OF GRIPPERS.
I MADE SOME NICE LITTLE GRIPPERS HERE.
IT WAS KIND OF FUN, USING A CORE BOX PLANE, UNUSUAL PLANE.
AND I'M GOING TO SAW RIGHT WITH THE RINGS-- SO I'M PARALLEL TO THE RINGS HERE, AND PUT THIS CLAMP ON SO I HAVE THE RINGS-- RIGHT IN LINE WITH THE RINGS.
SO THE RINGS ARE GOING IN THIS DIRECTION OF THE WOOD.
WE'LL GO AHEAD AND SAW IT NOW.
AND ONCE YOU DO THIS, YOU ARE COMMITTED.
BUT THE NICE THING WITH THIS CLAMP IS THAT WILL HELP YOU-- IN FACT, LET ME SEE IF I CAN ALIGN THIS CLAMP A LITTLE BIT BETTER, BECAUSE I WANT TO HAVE IT OPEN ON BOTH SIDES.
THE CLAMP WILL ALLOW US TO SAW VERY ACCURATELY.
YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW HARD THIS WOULD BE TO DO WITHOUT HAVING GUIDE LINES.
SO SAW STRAIGHT ON DOWN BETWEEN THE...HA HA HA.
LITTLE CLAMPING BLOCKS.
AND THAT MAKES AN ACCURATE, ACCURATE CUT.
NOW, I HAVE TO WORK DOWN A LITTLE WAYS LIKE THIS.
AND NOTICE I'M USING...
I'M USING A CROSSCUT SAW.
I'M GOING TO TAKE IT OUT NOW AND SEE HOW WE'RE DOING.
USING A CROSSCUT SAW.
REMEMBER I SAID YOU HAVE TO TURN THINGS OVER?
YOU DO, TO MAKE SURE YOU'RE DOING RIGHT.
USING A CROSSCUT SAW BECAUSE IT'S GOING TO LEAVE A FINER CUT THAN OUR HEAVY RIPSAW WE WERE USING AT THE BEGINNING.
NOW I'VE CUT THIS DOWN.
AND I'M JUST GOING TO GO AS FAR AS THE SET SCREW HOLES.
ALL RIGHT.
NOW YOU'LL TURN IT OVER MORE TIME, AGAIN KEEPING IT IN THERE AND LINED UP.
AND I DO WANT TO SEE IF I CAN GET DOWN AS FAR AS THE SET SCREW HOLE--OOP.
BECAUSE... AH.
THERE WE GO.
ALL RIGHT.
BECAUSE WE'RE GOING TO USE THAT VOID THAT'S IN THERE TO HELP US WHEN WE DRILL THE HOLE THROUGH.
SEE?
SO THERE'S WHERE THE HOLE IS GOING TO GO THROUGH.
AND, OF COURSE, THE SLITS NEEDS TO REALLY GO ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THIS RING, BUT IN THE INTEREST OF TIME, I'M JUST SAWING DOWN THIS FAR.
SO I'LL HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF A VOID THERE.
NOW, I ALSO USE THESE LITTLE CLAMPS TO GUIDE MY AUGER HOLES THERE.
NOW, SEE, THAT'S READY ON ONE SIDE.
THAT'S READY ON THAT SIDE.
ALL RIGHT.
AND WE CAN NOW BORE DOWN, AND IF I AM CAREFUL TO KEEP THESE CLAMPS, THESE GRIPPERS ALIGNED, THESE GRIPPERS HAVE MADE A BIG DIFFERENCE IN HOW WELL THIS WORKS.
AND I'VE GOT TO MAKE SURE THAT WHEN I TAKE IT OUT OF THE VISE, IT'S GOING TO STAY THERE, BECAUSE IF IT DOESN'T-- ALL RIGHT.
SO YOU NEED TO GRIP IT A LITTLE MORE IN THE MIDDLE.
SO WE'RE ON THE BIG SIDE.
NOW, IF YOU LOOK AT ONE OF THESE SCREWS, IT'S GOING TO HAVE A BIG SIDE THAT GOES IN, ABOUT 5/8", AND THEN ON THE OTHER SIDE, ABOUT A HALF-INCH.
SO A 1/8-INCH BIGGER HOLE ON ONE SIDE.
NOW BORE DOWN.
OH, BOY.
THIS IS CRITICAL HERE.
NOW, NORMALLY, YOU COULD PUT A PIECE OF PAPER THROUGH THERE.
NOW, SEE WHAT I DID?
I DIDN'T ALIGN IT JUST RIGHT.
THIS HAS TO BE AT 90 DEGREES.
LET'S GET THAT.
DO YOU SEE THE SAW CUT I MADE BEFORE?
SET THAT AT 90 DEGREES.
I THINK I'VE JUST MADE A DISCOUNT ONE.
OH, WELL.
WE'LL GO THROUGH AT 90 DEGREES TO THE OPENING THERE.
AND WE SHOULD GET INTO THAT VOID, AND THAT WILL STOP.
ALL RIGHT.
AND NOW TURN IT OVER.
WE'LL GO THROUGH FROM THE OTHER SIDE.
AND YOU SEE, BY LAYING OUT ON THESE LITTLE BLOCKS...
VERY CAREFULLY-- OK. AND I'VE JUST GOT TO HOLD IT.
LAYING OUT ON THESE BLOCKS, I'VE GOT A GUIDE FOR MY BRACE AND BIT.
NOW, I'VE ALREADY GOT A BRACE WITH A SMALLER ONE, AND THIS IS THE ONE THAT'S GOING TO GET THE THREADS IN IT.
OH, GOSH, I HATE THAT, YOU KNOW, AFTER ALL THAT WORK, BUT AS I GET HURRYING THROUGH THESE THINGS-- YOU NEED TO BE MELLOW.
5, 6, 7.
AND WE'LL JUST COME THROUGH, BREAK THROUGH INTO THE OTHER SIDE.
AND THERE WE GO.
ALL RIGHT.
SO, NOW WE HAVE A HALF-INCH HOLE FROM ONE SIDE, A 5/8 FROM THE OTHER, AND WE WILL NOW TAP THAT HOLE, CUT THE INTERNAL THREADS USING A THREADCUTTER THAT WE CAN BUY.
THIS IS FROM THE BEALL COMPANY.
AND SEE, THIS WILL FIT DOWN INSIDE THERE AND CUT THAT THREAD.
NOW, THIS IS FINE.
WE CAN CUT THAT INTERNAL THREAD VERY QUICKLY WITH THE TAP THAT THEY MAKE.
ALL RIGHT.
SO THAT GOES HALFWAY THROUGH.
IT GOES THROUGH TO THE SAW CUT.
AND THEN WE HAVE THE BIG SCREW ON THE OTHER SIDE.
AND THAT'S CUT OUR INTERNAL THREADS.
NOW, OUR EXTERNAL THREADS-- AND THIS IS WHERE THAT... OH, THAT WONDERFUL PERSIMMON COMES IN AGAIN.
WE HAVE...TO MAKE A SCREW BOX, WHAT'S CALLED A SCREW BOX, TO CUT THE EXTERNAL THREADS.
THIS GOES RIGHT HERE, AND WE JUST FEED THIS IN AND START TO CRANK.
NOW, THIS IS SOMETHING THEY DO NOT MAKE.
YOU CAN BUY THE TAP FROM BEALL, BUT YOU CAN'T BUY THE SCREW BOX.
SO WE'RE GOING TO SEE HOW TO MAKE THIS DEVICE RIGHT HERE.
AND YOU CAN SEE WHAT IT'S DOING IN THAT WONDERFUL WAY IT WORKS IN PERSIMMON.
IT CUTS A BEAUTIFUL SCREW THREAD.
AND LET'S SEE IF WE CAN SEE HOW MUCH WE'VE DONE.
LOOK AT THAT.
BEAUTIFUL.
SO THAT'S GOING TO GO INTO THAT THREADED-- THROUGH THE BIG SIDE INTO THE THREADED SIDE, AND WE'LL HAVE THIS WONDERFUL ADJUSTING BUSINESS RIGHT HERE FOR THE BALL AND SOCKET JOINT.
WELL, WE HAVE PROBABLY GOT OUR WOOD STEAMED ENOUGH, AND I KNOW I'M HOT ENOUGH THAT WE CAN GO AHEAD AND BEND IT.
SO LET'S START.
I'M GOING TO DO THE HOOP FIRST.
AND BECAUSE YOU ONLY HAVE A FEW SECONDS ONCE YOU GET THE WOOD OUT, YOU'VE GOT TO HAVE YOUR CLAMPS READY, BECAUSE WE'RE GOING TO DO THE... NOT THE HOOP, BUT THE YOKE.
THE YOKE.
SO I'LL PULL THAT YOKE PIECE OUT.
IT GOES RIGHT HERE IN THIS, AND THIS HAS ACTUALLY GOT A LITTLE BIT OF OVERBEND TO IT.
SEE, I'M WASTING TIME.
I SHOULD HAVE HAD THAT SCREW READY TO GO, JUST LIKE THAT, BECAUSE 5, 4, 3, 2...
IT'S ALREADY LOSING ITS ELASTICITY.
AND BRING IT AROUND, BRING IT AROUND.
I SEE BREAKING A LITTLE BIT THERE.
ALL RIGHT.
YEAH.
AND EASE IT AROUND.
YOU CAN FEEL IT GIVE.
AND THEN HOLD IT WHILE YOU PUT THE CLAMP ON IT.
ALL RIGHT.
I'LL TAKE THAT OUT.
AH, AH, AH.
THERE WE GO.
SO THAT'S THE YOKE.
ALL RIGHT.
AND WE'LL LEAVE THAT IN THERE FOR A WHILE.
AND SEE, THAT ONE, THE AIR DRYING DIDN'T HELP ME TOO MUCH, RIGHT, ON THAT ONE.
AND THAT'S ALL RIGHT.
YOU'RE GONNA HAVE SOME OF THESE THAT JUST AREN'T GONNA WORK.
LET'S TRY THIS ONE, AND I'VE GOT A MOLD FOR IT.
WE'LL SET THIS RIGHT IN HERE AND BEND IT AROUND.
THIS IS A MORE GENTLE BEND.
IT SHOULD DO JUST FINE.
OH, IT'S JUST WONDERFUL THE WAY IT WORKS.
AND JUST FOLD THAT AROUND.
AND THIS CLAMP, THIS BENDING FORM, IS WHAT IT'LL STAY ON.
SO YOU MAKE A COUPLE OF THESE.
AND YOU MAKE THEM SMALLER WITH A LITTLE MORE BEND THAN WHAT YOU'RE REALLY GOING TO NEED IN IT.
THAT WILL ALLOW IT TO SPRING BACK.
THERE YOU GO.
NOW, THAT JUST HAS TO SIT IN THERE FOR A DAY OR SO.
AND THAT WILL HOLD ITS SHAPE.
WE'LL HAVE TO DO A SCARF JOINT ON IT, YOU KNOW, PARE IT DOWN.
THAT'S READY TO GO.
NOW, THE CONNECTION BETWEEN-- LET'S PUT THE BALL IN THE SOCKET THERE.
THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE YOKE AND THE HOOP IS PROBABLY JUST THE WAY THEY MAKE THE SHAKER BASKETS-- JUST DO TACKS AND GLUE.
SO THERE'S OUR HOOP ON THE YOKE.
AND THEN OUR EMBROIDERY-- NOW, SEE, OUR BALL AND SOCKET ADJUSTS IT THE WAY WE WANT TO.
OUR EMBROIDERY GOES ON THERE, AFTER THE THING IS WRAPPED IN THE BIAS TAPE.
THE OUTER HOOP GOES ON, AGAIN WITH ITS SPLICE.
THERE.
AND WE'RE ALL SET TO DO OUR NEEDLEWORK.
YOU CAN SEE RIGHT THERE, I'M DOING THE "PLANE" STITCH.
SO YOU'LL FIND THIS THING WORKS PRETTY WELL IF YOU JUST LET THIS STUFF SET UP JUST RIGHT FOR A DAY OR SO.
OK.
SO THERE YOU GO.
THAT OUR EMBROIDERY HOOP.
WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME TO MAKE OUR SCREW TAP.
SO LONG.
ROY UNDERHILL.
BYE-BYE.
LEARN MORE ABOUT "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" AND TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING ON OUR WEBSITE.
YOU CAN FIND US ONLINE AT pbs.org.
MAJOR FUNDING FOR "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" IS PROVIDED BY... ROY UNDERHILL IS THE AUTHOR OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" AND OTHER BOOKS ABOUT TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING, PUBLISHED BY THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA PRESS AND AVAILABLE AT BOOKSTORES AND LIBRARIES.