Thomas Jefferson's Bookstand

(male announcer) MAJOR FUNDING FOR THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP IS PROVIDED BY: (male announcer) MORE THAN 40 MILLION PEOPLE WHO CARE FOR THEIR CARS AND HOMES CHOOSE STATE FARM FOR THEIR INSURANCE.

STATE FARM: A PROUD SUPPORTER OF THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP.

[horns beeping] [banjo strumming] [upbeat fiddle music] HEY, HELLO AGAIN.

WELCOME BACK TO THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP.

I'M ROY UNDERHILL.

SO GLAD YOU COULD BE BACK WITH ME AGAIN.

BOY, WE WORKED SO HARD LAST TIME DOVETAILING TOGETHER THE SIDES OF OUR LITTLE JOINER'S TOOL CHEST.

NOW, THIS IS IT.

WITH THE SIDES ALL IN PLACE, WE'VE OF COURSE GOT TO DO THE TOP AND THE BOTTOM TODAY AND SEE WHAT WE CAN DO ABOUT THAT LITTLE HANDLE RIGHT THERE.

BUT FIRST WE GOT TO LOOK AT THE DOVETAILS THAT JOIN THIS THING TOGETHER.

IF YOU'LL LOOK DOWN AT THE CORNER HERE, YOU CAN SEE THE DOVETAILS STOP RIGHT IN HERE, AND WE HAVE A MITER JOINT INSTEAD.

AND THAT ALLOWS US TO PLANE THAT OGEE MOLDING ALL THE WAY ON THROUGH.

WE ALSO HAVE A LITTLE SHORT TENON-- SHORT DOVETAIL RIGHT THERE.

SEE HOW THIS ONE IS SHALLOWER THAN THESE OTHER TWO?

IT'S SHALLOW BECAUSE IT HIDES THE GROOVE THAT HOLDS THE BOTTOM.

I'M GONNA TURN THIS THING AROUND, AND WE CAN SEE HOW THAT WORKS.

AND GET THAT CORNER THAT I CAN KNOCK APART.

TURN THE TOP THIS WAY.

YOU'RE GONNA SEE THE SECRETS OF THE TOOL CHEST.

THERE WE GO.

AND SEE HOW THAT BOTTOM FITS IN THERE.

THE BOTTOM FITS IN THIS GROOVE DOWN THE SIDES THERE.

YOU CAN SEE, SO OF COURSE, WE HAVE TO HAVE A LITTLE RABBET-- AND THAT'S THIS SHOULDER-- AND THEN JOIN TWO BOARDS TOGETHER, AS WE HAVE RIGHT HERE.

THIS IS A TONGUE-AND-GROOVE JOINT.

NOW, IT'S CUT AWAY SO THAT WE HAVE THE RABBET; YOU CAN SEE THE REST OF THE TONGUE-AND-GROOVE JOINT DOWN BELOW, SO WE'LL SEE HOW TO DO THAT.

ALL RIGHT, AND THEN, OF COURSE, WE HAVE-- LET ME GO AHEAD AND PUT THAT GUY BACK ON THERE-- SEE HOW THAT FITS; ALL RIGHT-- SO I CAN KEEP TRACK OF IT.

[grunts] THERE WE GO; ALL RIGHT.

LOOK AT THE TOP.

IT ALSO FITS TOGETHER VERY, VERY WELL HERE.

THIS IS HELD WITH DOVE-- NOT DOVETAILS BUT WHAT ARE CALLED BRIDLE JOINTS, BUT THEY'RE MITER BRIDLE JOINTS.

LOOK HERE; SEE HOW THAT NICE MITER COMES THROUGH THERE AND THEN GOES INTO THIS TOP PANEL THAT RIDES ABOVE?

IN A DOOR, NORMALLY WE HAVE THAT SUNK PANEL THAT THEN RAISES UP.

WELL, THIS ONE RIDES IN A GROOVE THAT'S HELD IN ANOTHER GROOVE AROUND THE INSIDE.

SO I'LL OPEN THIS UP, AND YOU CAN SEE THE PIECES THAT WE'RE GOING TO BE MAKING HERE.

ALL RIGHT, SO THERE'S THE CENTRAL PANEL, AND IT HAS A GROOVE PLOWED ALL THE WAY AROUND IT THAT ALLOWS IT TO SIT HIGH.

MOST PANELS JUST HAVE A TONGUE.

AND THEN HERE YOU CAN SEE THE TONGUE ON ONE PIECE AND THE GROOVE THAT IT GOES INTO, THE SLOT OF THE BRIDLE JOINT HERE.

NOW, ON THE INSIDE, OF COURSE, OF EACH OF THESE PIECES IS ANOTHER GROOVE.

THAT'S THE FIRST THING YOU WANT TO DO, BECAUSE WHEN YOU GROOVE THESE PIECES HERE, YOU TAKE AWAY PART OF THEM.

IF YOU LOOK AT THIS ONE RIGHT HERE-- YEAH, YOU CAN SEE IT RIGHT HERE-- THIS HAS A GROOVE, AND IT TAKES AWAY PART OF THE TONGUE.

SO IF YOU WENT AHEAD AND CUT THIS SLOT HERE, THE PIECE THAT IT GOES INTO, WITHOUT KNOWING THAT YOU 'RE GONNA LOSE SOME OF THE TONGUE, YOU'D HAVE--THIS PIECE WOULD BE CUT TOO DEEP.

YOU WOULD'VE GONE TOO FAR IN THIS DIRECTION ON THE BACK SIDE.

IT'LL ALL MAKE SENSE AS WE GO ALONG, I HOPE; ALL RIGHT.

LET'S GO AHEAD AND GET THAT BOTTOM TONGUE AND GROOVE.

LET'S START WITH THAT.

WE USE WHAT ARE CALLED MATCH PLANES IN THE OLD TIMES.

MATCH PLANES ARE TONGUE-AND-GROOVE PLANES.

TONGUE AND GROOVE USED TO BE CALLED MATCHBOARDS.

AND I'VE GOT THIS FIRST ONE HERE.

YOU CAN SEE WHAT IT HAS UNDERNEATH IT.

IT HAS AN IRON, AS THE BLADE IS CALLED, THAT HAS A GAP IN IT.

IT'S BUCK-- IT'S GAP-TOOTHED, ISN'T IT?

ALL RIGHT, AND IT LEAVES A TONGUE.

YOU NOTICE HOW IT CUTS ON THIS FAR SIDE.

HERE'S OUR FACE SIDE.

IT CUTS ON THE FAR SIDE FIRST, DEEPER.

IT DOES THAT SO THE FACE SIDE WILL CLOSE TIGHTER.

YOU WON'T BIND ON THE BACK.

SO THAT PUTS KIND OF A GAP ON THE UNDERSIDE BUT MAKES SURE THAT AT LEAST THE FACE SIDE IS TIGHT.

DOESN'T HAVE TO BE THAT WAY.

YOU CAN DO THIS ANY WAY YOU LIKE IT.

SO ANYWAY, THERE'S OUR TONGUE COMING UP REAL FAST.

AND I'M PUTTING THESE BOARDS IN LONGWAYS.

SOME PEOPLE LIKE TO DO CROSSWAYS BOARDS-- YOU KNOW, ACROSS THE NARROW WIDTH ON THE BOTTOM-- ALMOST THERE-- OF THEIR TOOL CHEST.

BUT TO ME, THAT PUTS TOO MUCH EXPANDING WOOD FROM END TO END, SO I'M GONNA DO LONG BOARDS HERE.

SO THERE'S OUR TONGUE.

AND I HAVE GOT TO MARK-- 'CAUSE I DIDN'T-- THAT AS THE FACE SIDE.

NOW I'M GONNA TAKE THIS ONE HERE, AND THIS WILL BE THE GROOVE.

I'LL TURN IT AROUND THIS WAY, OKAY?

AS IF I KNEW THE DIFFERENCE.

BUT ANYWAY, MARK THE FACE SIDE.

NOW, OF COURSE, WITH MATCH PLANES, YOU HAVE ONE TONGUE AND YOU HAVE ONE GROOVING PLANE, AND THEY ARE MADE IN PAIRS, SOMETIMES IN THE SAME PLANE.

YOU CAN SEE THAT NICE IRON IN THERE, READY TO GO, READY TO PLOW THAT GROOVE RIGHT ON DOWN.

SO JUST WORK THIS ON DOWN.

SO ALL WE'RE DOING IS MAKING A WIDER BOARD, AND SOMETIMES YOU DO THIS TO ACTUALLY MA THE SIDES OF A TOOL CHEST.

IF YOU CAN'T GET BOARDS WIDE ENOUGH, YOU MIGHT DO TONGUE AND GROOVE, BUT PROBABLY STRONGER IS TONGUE AND GROOVE AND DOWELED.

WORK THIS ON DOWN, PRETTY MUCH THE SAME THINGS ALL THE WAY ON DOWN.

ONCE I'VE STARTED, I'VE GOT TO FINISH IT UP, AT LEAST ON THE END SO YOU CAN SEE IT, 'CAUSE THERE'S-- PROBLEM WITH THIS SET: THEY'RE NOT EXACTLY MATCHED UP WELL.

THE GROOVE IS JUST A LITTLE BIT NARROW, AND I CAN'T MAKE THAT IRON WIDER.

NOW, THIS SHOULD CUT A LITTLE BIT MORE IN ORDER FOR THIS TO FIT TIGHT.

ALL RIGHT, I'M JUST GONNA STOP HERE BECAUSE IT'S BOTTOMED OUT DOWN AT THAT FAR END, SO AT LEAST WE'LL KNOW IT'LL FIT RIGHT THERE.

ALL RIGHT, NOW WATCH WHAT HAPPENS WHEN I FIT THIS.

I'LL SET THAT RIGHT THERE.

OOP.

SET THAT RIGHT THERE.

ALL RIGHT, AND WE'LL TRY AND GET THAT DOWN IN THERE.

IT IS A TIGHT, TIGHT FIT.

IT DOESN'T WANT TO GO.

LOOK AT IT: REAL TIGHT.

SO WE'LL USE A SIDE RABBET PLANE.

THIS IS A PLANE THAT CUTS ON ITS SIDE, NOT ON ITS BOTTOM.

DO YOU SEE IT HAS THE IRON THERE?

THAT IRON, THAT BLADE CUTS DOWN THE SIDE OF THE PLANE, SO YOU CAN PULL THIS DOWN THIS WAY AND CUT RIGHT- AND LEFT-HANDED.

AND YOU SEE THAT IT'S JUST LAYING THESE LONG THREADS OF WOOD DOWN IN HERE.

SO YOU JUST OPEN THIS UP A LITTLE BIT HERE WITH THE SIDE RABBET PLANE.

AND THEN NOW IT FITS.

LOOK AT THAT.

SEE?

IT CAN GET DOWN IN THERE.

AND THERE WE GO.

WE GOT TONGUE AND GROOVE.

AND SOMETIMES THE GAP WOULD BE ON THE BACK SIDE AND THE FACE RIGHT THERE.

SO IT'S A GLUE JOINT.

NOW, WE GET THESE THINGS LAID UP WITH TONGUE AND GROOVE.

WE'VE GOT TO NOW DO THAT RABBET AROUND THE SIDES.

I'M GONNA USE A PLANE THAT'S REALLY GOOD FOR CROSS-GRAIN WORK.

WE'VE BEEN PLANING WITH THE GRAIN ON THAT ONE.

HERE WE'RE GONNA GO ACROSS THE GRAIN, AND I'LL SET THIS IN PLACE.

LET ME SEE IF I HAVE GOT ANYTHING TO STRIKE THAT WITH.

YES, I WANT TO PUT MY MAT-- SEE, MY TOOLS, THEY AUTOMATICALLY GO INTO THE TOOL CHEST.

SO I CAN STRIKE MY HOLDFAST, GET THAT DOWN, AND THEN WORK WITH THIS.

THIS IS A MOVING FILLISTER PLANE.

THIS HAS A CUTTER RIGHT HERE, THIS LITTLE EXTRA CUTTER KNIFE THAT SEVERS THE CROSSGRAIN, AND THEN IT'S CUT BY THIS DIAGONAL KNIFE RIGHT HERE, THIS DIAGONAL IRON THAT DOES THE WORK.

YEAH, YOU SEE BEAUTIFUL BOXWOOD INLAY WITH THE BEECH.

AND MAKE YOUR FIRST STROKE BACK LIKE THAT, AND THAT MAKES SURE THAT YOU SCORE THE GRAIN, AND THEN YOU WORK YOUR WAY ON DOWN.

AND THE DIAGONAL IRON COMBINED WITH THAT VERTICAL CUTTER MAKES A VERY SMOOTH CUT.

[laughs] HE SPOKE TOO SOON.

IT'S SPLINTERING OUT THERE ON THE END.

MAKES A VERY SMOOTH CUT ACROSS THE GRAIN.

ALL RIGHT, SO THERE'S OUR RABBET, AND THAT WILL FIT IN-- THAT'S JUST A SHOULDER RIGHT THERE, A SHOULDER THAT WILL FIT IN.

IT'S LIKE AN OFFSET TONGUE THAT WILL FIT IN TO HANG THE BOTTOM.

YOU SEE THAT RIGHT THERE?

AND OF COURSE, THE BOTTOM ACTUALLY SITS LIKE THIS HERE, SO THIS GOES INTO A GROOVE AND RIDES HERE.

NOW, WE HAVE TO GET THE WIDTH OF THIS PIECE.

LET ME SHOW YOU THAT REAL QUICK.

WE'LL USE A PANEL GAUGE, SO YOU FIT THESE UP.

YOU DO THE RABBETS ON ONE SIDE.

THIS IS WIDER THAN WE NEED.

I'M GONNA GET THESE FITTED.

ALL RIGHT?

AND THEN USE A PANEL GAUGE, THIS NICE PANEL GAUGE I HAVE RIGHT HERE.

IT'S JUST LIKE A MARKING GAUGE BUT A BIG ONE, BIG LONG ONE.

SEE, IT'S CALLED A PANEL GAUGE.

HAS A BIG FENCE TO RIDE THERE SO WE CAN THEN RIDE THIS ACROSS.

HAS A SCRATCHER UP HERE, AND AS IT RIDES DOWN ONE END, IT SCRATCHES THE WIDTH.

WE'LL SAW THAT OFF AND PUT THE EXTRA RABBET ON THIS SHOULDER, AND THAT GIVES US OUR BOTTOM TO SLIP IN, JUST A BIG PLANE OF WOOD.

ALL RIGHT, NOTHING MUCH TO IT.

LET'S DO THE TOP.

THE TOP, HOWEVER, HAS SOME NICE JOINTS TO IT.

IT HAS, OF COURSE, THE-- WELL, LET'S LOOK AT THEM.

LET'S LOOK AT A FINISHED ONE FIRST.

ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA.

YOU'LL SEE HOW NICE THAT WORKS.

SO HERE'S THAT PANEL READY TO GO IN, ALL RIGHT?

AND THAT'S GONNA SIT RIGHT THERE LIKE THAT, ALL RIGHT?

AND THEN THIS RIGHT HERE, THAT TONGUE, GOES THROUGH THIS BRIDLE JOINT, AND IT'S MITERED ON BOTH SIDES.

SO OUR FIRST THING WE HAVE TO DO IS CUT OUR MITERS.

NOW, YOU CAN DO THIS, OF COURSE, WITH JUST A SAW AND A FRAMING SQUARE-- A FRAMING SQUARE FIRST AND THEN A SAW, MAKING SURE THAT YOU LAY OUT THE 45 BY CROSSING AT EQUAL POINTS.

SO IF WE HAVE A 10 ON ONE ARM AND THEN CROSS AT A 10 ON THE OTHER-- THE BEAM RIGHT THERE OF THE FRAMING SQUARE-- YOU CAN SEE WE DEFINED A 45-DEGREE ANGLE.

SO WE SCRIBE THAT, SAW IT OFF.

WE CAN PLANE IT, SMOOTH; THAT'S FINE.

ON THE OTHER PIECE, HOWEVER, WE'VE GOT A TONGUE TO CUT, SO LET'S GO AHEAD AND DO THAT.

I HAVE A PIECE ABOUT READY TO GO, AND I'VE GAUGED THE LINES.

I'VE ALREADY PLOWED THE GROOVES.

YOU ALWAYS PLOW THOSE GROOVES FIRST AND GAUGE A LINE.

HERE'S A DOUBLE-TOOTH MARKING GAUGE.

THIS HAS TWO LITTLE TEETH, AND I'VE SET THEM SO THEY'RE GONNA MARK THE INTERNAL 1/4 INCH OF A 3/4 INCH-WIDE BOARD.

SO ZZOOP, THAT GOES.

AM I DOING FROM THE FACE SIDE?

NO, I'M NOT.

I'M GOING THROUGH THE BACK SIDE.

BUT IF IT'S DEAD ON, AND IT REALLY NEEDS TO BE, THEN GO RIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE.

BUT I NEED TO KNOW THE FACE SIDE, THE SIDE THAT'S CONSISTENT, ALL FACE SIDES TO ONE SIDE.

SO THAT'S READY TO GO.

LET'S GO AHEAD AND SAW THAT.

I'M GONNA USE AN APPLIANCE, AS THEY'RE CALLED.

WE CALL THESE MITER APPLIANCE, AND THIS IS A BIG 'UN.

[grunts] THIS IS A MITER BOX OF METAL, A METAL MITER BOX.

WE HAVE IT SET AT 45 DEGREES.

I'VE GOT ONE SIDE ALREADY CUT, SO I JUST HAVE TO CUT THIS SECOND SIDE OF THIS.

NOW, WHAT WE'RE CUTTING, OF COURSE, IS THE TONGUE.

WE'RE CUTTING A PIECE LIKE THIS.

WE WANT TO END UP WITH A TONGUE LIKE THAT.

SO THIS IS READY TO GO.

WE'VE GOT OUR LINES MARKED.

WE'VE PLOWED THE GROOVE.

AND WE START SAWING, AND SAW DOWN TO THE LINE.

ALL RIGHT, AND WE'RE GETTING RIGHT TO THAT-- WE WANT TO LEAVE THAT CENTRAL 1/4 OF AN INCH.

SO LET'S SEE; I'M LOOKING ON THE BACK SIDE...

LOOKING ON THE BACK SIDE-- ALL RIGHT, SO WE GET DOWN THERE.

ALL RIGHT, NOW WE'VE GOT IT.

SO WE SAW THE SHOULDERS FIRST.

AND THIS ACTUALLY HAS STOPS ON IT THAT WOULD STOP THIS CUT JUST AT THE RIGHT DEPTH.

IT WOULD SAY, OKAY, JUST CUT 4 INCH DEEP AND NO FARTHER.

BUT I HAVEN'T USED THAT ON THIS ONE, JUST EYEBALLED IT.

ALL RIGHT.

[chuckles] IT'S A BIG OLD THING.

BUT THEY'RE HANDY, AND THEY'RE ALSO-- MITER BOXES ARE NOT REAL PRETTY, AND SO COLLECTORS HAVEN'T DRIVEN THE PRICES WAY UP.

SO THERE WE ARE.

WE'VE GOT THE SHOULDERS CUT.

I WENT AHEAD AND THEN PARED OFF, PARED OFF THE GROOVED BOARDS, 'CAUSE THEY'VE GOT TO GO.

YOU'VE ALREADY LOST--AND SO PARE OFF THOSE SHOULDERS AND THEN REGAUGE THE LINE FROM THE FACE SIDE, 'CAUSE YOU JUST REALLY CAN'T SAW WHEN YOU'VE GOT THOSE SHOULDERS INTACT THERE.

SO I'LL SET THIS UP AT 45 DEGREES SO YOU CAN SEE BOTH LINES, THE LINE ON THIS SIDE AND THE LINE TOWARDS ME, AND WITH THE RIPSAW, TAKE IT OFF.

TAKE IT ALL OFF--OR ACTUALLY, DON'T TAKE IT ALL OFF.

TAKE IT JUST CLOSE TO THE LINE, 'CAUSE THIS IS REAL ROUGH.

YOU NEED A VERY PRECISE FIT.

YOU CAN HEAR THE SAW IS SHARPER UP HERE AT THE HEEL END OF IT.

IT GIVES THAT HIGHER CUT, HIGHER TONE.

ALL RIGHT.

SO YOU WANT TO LEAVE THE LINE, AND DON'T GO OVER THE LINE HERE.

YOU WANT NEAT WORK...

HE SAID.

AHH.

THERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT.

LET'S SEE IF WE CAN TAKE THAT OFF NOW WITH THE CHISEL.

THERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT.

AND THEN WE'LL PARE DOWN THIS LAST LITTLE BIT.

NOW, SEE, I DIDN'T GET QUITE UP THERE.

DIDN'T SAW QUITE DEEP ENOUGH, DID I?

ALL RIGHT, SO SINCE I CAN'T SAW IT, WE'LL PLANE IT-- CAN'T CHISEL IT, RATHER.

YOU PLANE UP WITH THE SHOULDER PLANE, AND THAT WILL BRING-- THAT'S WHAT THIS IS FOR: BRINGING THAT SMOOTH END UP TO A SHOULDER.

NOW, THIS IS GREAT, AND I CAN PLANE THIS DOWN, MAKE IT REAL GOOD AND SMOOTH HERE.

I'VE GOT--ALL RIGHT, HERE'S ONE.

GOT THIS ONE NICE AND SMOOTH AND READY.

YOU SEE THE NICE THICKNESS I HAVE.

IT HAS GOOD SHOULDERS.

AND THE WAY I GOT THAT IS USING ANOTHER MITER APPLIANCE.

JUST AS I SAY THERE ARE APPLIANCES FOR SAWING, SO TOO ARE THERE APPLIANCES FOR DOING PLANING, AND I'VE GOT ONE HERE.

THIS ONE IS JUST A SHOOTING BOARD.

HAVEN'T YOU EVER USED A SHOOTING BOARD?

THAT'S A--WELL, HERE IT IS, A SHOOTING BOARD.

USUALLY USE THEM FOR RIGHT ANGLES, BUT HERE I'VE JUST TAKEN A PIECE OF SCRAP WOOD, CUT IT 45 DEGREES VERY CAREFULLY, AND THAT ALLOWS ME TO HOLD THIS PIECE OF WOOD.

SO HERE IT IS.

I GOT A TRACK FOR THE PLANE TO RUN IN.

GOT MY SCRAP ON HERE, JUST SCREWED ON AT 45.

HERE'S THE PIECE THAT I'VE SAWN OUT, AND I WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THIS IS PERFECTLY SMOOTH.

SO HERE I HAVE THE TRACK.

I HAVE THE PIECE HELD AT 45 DEGREES SO THE TRACK-- AND HERE'S THE PLANE.

SO I PUT THIS LONG JOINTER PLANE IN HERE AND SLOWLY FEED THAT MITER INTO IT, AND THAT WILL GIVE YOU THIS REALLY SMOOTH EDGE.

THAT'S GREAT, OKAY, SO WE CAN PLANE THIS MITER REALLY NICE AND SMOOTH, TRIM IT TO A PERFECT 45.

ALL RIGHT, THAT'S GREAT, BUT WHAT DO YOU DO WITH THIS ONE?

YOU CAN'T REALLY PLANE THOSE SHOULDERS WITH THIS DEVICE.

WELL, FOR THAT, WE'RE GONNA USE ANOTHER ONE, A VERY OLD DEVICE.

IN FACT, I'VE GOT AN OLD-- VENERABLE OLD VERSION OF THIS OLD, OLD TOOL.

IT'S A WONDERFUL THING.

THIS IS A MITER JACK, A MITER JACK, AND IT HOLDS THE WOOD JUST STRAIGHT ACROSS IT.

BUT THEN IT HAS A FENCE, AN ADJUSTABLE FENCE HELD BY THIS SCREW HERE THAT ALLOWS THE WOOD TO TRACK BACK AND FORTH AT 45 DEGREES.

SO HERE WE CAN SCREW THIS UP TIGHT.

AND SEE, THIS IS NOW HOLDING BOTH SHOULDERS JUST RIGHT, AND WE HAVE SOME CARD OR PAPER ON THERE SO WE DON'T CUT INTO THAT, OR WE JUST DO IT CHICKEN-WISE AND TRY NOT TO CUT ALL THE WAY DOWN, SEE, AND BRING DOWN ONE SHOULDER HERE.

SEE, I'M WORKING THAT?

'CAUSE IT'S RIDING ON THIS PERFECTLY MEASURED 45-DEGREE BED.

THEN COME OVER ON THIS SIDE, AND AGAIN, CUT DOWN HERE.

AND WE KNOW FROM THE TWO OF THESE BEING ALIGNED, WE CUT THESE SHOULDERS, BOTH SHOULDERS NOW, BOTH IN THE SAME PLANE AT 45 DEGREES.

SO WE'VE GOT THOSE TWO PIECES.

NOW, WE GOT TO TRANSFER 'EM.

WE'RE MOVING RIGHT ALONG.

GOT TO TRANSFER THE-- TO MAKE THE BRIDLE JOINT.

SO HERE IT IS, AND WE WANT THIS PIECE TO GO INTO HERE.

AND THE REASON WE DID THIS PIECE FIRST WAS 'CAUSE WE LOST SOME OF IT.

SO HOLD THIS UP, SHOULDERS ON HERE.

HERE'S THE PIECE THAT WE LOST TO THE TONGUE.

ALL RIGHT, AND YOU HOLD IT THERE, AND WE MARK ACROSS IT.

WE KNOW OUR DEPTH TO GO IS TO RIGHT THERE.

ALL RIGHT, SO WE KNOW TO CUT THAT.

WE'RE GONNA START IT AGAIN WITH THE PLOW PLANE.

THE SAME PLANE THAT WE USED TO CUT THIS GROOVE UP HERE WE CAN USE TO START THAT DEEP GROOVE.

THIS JUST GETS US A NICE, CLEAN START.

MEASURE DOWN THE EDGE.

IF WE ARE INDEED CUTTING THAT CENTRAL 1/4 INCH, THIS IS A GOOD START FOR OUR WORK.

AAHH.

YEAH.

WORKS NEAT.

SOUNDS A LITTLE DIFFERENT THERE WHEN WE'RE CUTTING THAT.

SO WE'VE GOT THAT GROOVE CUT.

NOW, ON THIS SIDE, WE'RE GONNA ACTUALLY DO A LITTLE BIT.

EVEN THOUGH THE GROOVE DOESN'T CONTINUE ON DOWN, WE'LL JUST GROOVE THIS LITTLE PART RIGHT HERE.

click!

OOP.

I ASSUME YOU HEARD THAT CRACK.

THAT WAS THAT GROOVE WAS CRACKING FROM THE COMPRESSION...

IN--IN THE VISE.

ALL RIGHT, SO BRING IT DOWN.

JUST THESE LITTLE NIBBLE, NIBBLE, NIBBLE.

ALL RIGHT, AND THAT'S JUST ENOUGH TO GIVE US A GOOD START FOR OUR SAW.

OUR SAW WILL TRACK IN THAT GROOVE.

SO AGAIN, THIS GOES BACK UPRIGHT.

AND JUST AS WE RIPPED THE SHOULDERS OF THAT LAST ONE, WE HAVE THE SAW TO... boing!

CUT DOWN THE RIP OF OUR-- YEAH, VERY GOOD.

AND ACTUALLY, THIS IS NOT THE SIDE-- THE SIDE THAT'S FACING ME IS NOT THE SIDE THAT SHOWS, SO I WOULD ADVISE YOU TO ALWAYS CUT WITH THE SIDE-- IF YOU CAN ONLY SEE ONE SIDE, MAKE SURE YOU'RE SEEING THE SIDE THAT SHOWS TO THE OUTSIDE WORLD.

SO SAW THAT DOWN.

YEAH.

AND I'M JUST GONNA DO A LITTLE BIT OF THIS, SAW THIS DOWN HERE, RIDING ON THE INSIDE OF THOSE GROOVES...

STOPPING WHEN YOU GET TO THE LINE ON THAT BACK SIDE, AND THEN YOU CAN COME BACK WITH A LITTLE CHISEL HERE-- THIS ONE'S A 1/4 INCH-WIDE CHISEL-- AND JUST CHISEL OUT THAT WOOD IN BETWEEN THERE.

YOUR SAWING PROBABLY, HOWEVER, DIDN'T GO ALL THE WAY TO THE EDGES, SO YOU END UP DOING THIS KIND OF THING THAT I HATE.

WHEN YOU BORE HOLES TO MAKE A MORTISE, YOU BORE A LOT OF HOLES, AND YOU PARE THE SIDES, I'D RATHER DO IT ALL IWITH A MORTISING CHISEL..

SO IT'S A REAL TOSS-UP IF NOT DOING IT WITH A MORTISING CHISEL.

NEVERTHELESS, FINAL TEST IS TO GO DOWN WITH A RASP.

HERE'S ONE JUST BRINGING IT IN A LITTLE BIT, A CABINET RASP, AND THEN IF YOU'RE LUCKY, YOU'RE GONNA HAVE A RASP THAT IS EXACTLY 1/4 INCH WIDE.

AND THIS JUST SIZES IT DOWN...

THE FINAL LITTLE BIT THERE.

ALL RIGHT.

SO WE SIZE THAT ON DOWN WITH THAT, AND WE HAVE, I THINK, OUR COMPLETED-- LET'S SEE IF THIS IS TWO THAT WILL GO TOGETHER HERE, AND MAKE SURE.

YEAH, THERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT, SO THERE'S THE TONGUE INTO THE BRIDLE JOINT, AND IT CLOSES UP JUST FINE.

THERE YOU GO.

SEE HOW THAT--NICE MITER JOINT.

AND IF YOU LOOK ON THE OTHER SIDE, WHAT DO YOU HAVE?

A NICE MITER JOINT.

AND THEN YOU HAVE ALONG THE INSIDE A GROOVE THAT YOU CAN RIDE THE TOP IN.

THE TOP IS JUST GONNA SLIP RIGHT DOWN INSIDE THERE, 'CAUSE IT RIDES IN THE GROOVE.

SO LET'S GO AHEAD AND PUT OUR REGULAR ONE TOGETHER, AND WE'LL TURN OUR ATTENTION TO THE HANDLES.

AND THAT INDEED WILL BE TURNING.

SO HERE WE ARE; THERE'S OUR MITER BRIDLE JOINT.

ALL RIGHT.

YOU SEE BRIDLE JOINTS AT BOTH THE TOPS AND THE BOTTOMS OF BUILDINGS.

THAT'S HOW THEY JOINED THE SILL AND THEY JOINED THE RAFTERS IN OLD TIMBER-FRAME HOUSES.

SO THERE WE GO.

YOU SEE THE GROOVE AROUND THERE HAS FIT INTO THE GROOVE, AND THIS PANEL RIDES ON TOP.

WE'VE GOT THE INSIDE TO TAKE OUR INLAY, AND WE'VE SCREWED A LITTLE LIP AROUND THIS SIDE RIGHT THERE.

SO WE HAVEUR-- ALL RIGHT, LET'S SEE.

I'M GONNA TURN THIS AROUND THIS WAY AND TAP OUR BOTTOM BOARD BACK INTO PLACE, OUR END BOARD HERE, ALL RIGHT?

SO NOW WE'VE GOT THAT DRIVING IN.

ALL RIGHT, NOW WE'LL DRIVE ACROSS.

I'M GONNA SHOW YOU WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE ON THE FINISHED ONE-- THERE IT IS--HOUSING OUR BOTTOM.

BUT THEN, OF COURSE, WE HAVE OUR NEXT ITEM, WHICH IS RIGHT HERE.

IT IS, OF COURSE, OUR HANDLE.

AND I WAS SURPRISED; I WAS MAKING THIS ON AN OLD ONE.

IT WAS ACTUALLY TURNED.

IT WAS TURNED AND THEN SAWN DOWN.

SO WE HAD THIS READY TO GO HERE, A PIECE OF HARD WHITE OAK IN THE LATHE.

AND I'VE GOT A SKEW CHISEL TO GET THIS THING GOING.

SO I'M WORKING THE TREADLE LATHE.

THIS IS BASED ON ONE FROM ABOUT 1820s OR SO, I'M GUESSING.

LOOKING AT THE SCREWS THAT ARE IN IT, THEY'RE OLD SQUARE-POINTED SCREWS.

SO WE TURN THIS DOWN.

ALL RIGHT, JUST TURN IT ON THE LATHE UNTIL WE GET IT TO A NICE SHAPE.

PUT A COUPLE OF RINGS IN THERE, AND THEN WE'VE GOT TO JUST SAW IT OUT.

SO WE TAKE IT AND WORK IT WITH THE FRAME SAW-- OR A FRAME SAW WOULD BE REAL GOOD, BUT I'M GOING TO USE MY BIG TURNING SAW, BIG BOW SAW.

SO WE JUST SAW THIS DOWN.

OOPS, I WANT TO GO THE OTHER WAY.

I'M GONNA TIGHTEN THIS UP TOO.

SO THERE IT IS; WE'VE GOT OUR OAK-- [chuckles] I KEEP TURNING THIS.

THAT'S WHY I CALL IT A TURNING SAW: I HAVE TO KEEP TURNING FROM END TO END TO GET IT TURNED THE RIGHT WAY.

ALL RIGHT, SO WE JUST SAW THAT OFF AND THEN BRING IT TRUE WITH CHISELS AND SPOKE SHAVES.

ALL RIGHT?

SO THAT'S GONNA SAW RIGHT ON DOWN, AND WE'LL CHISEL THAT GUY OFF AND TRUE IT UP, AND THERE'S JUST A LITTLE BIT OF BEVELING THAT WE DO.

IF YOU LOOK AT IT RIGHT HERE, YOU CAN SEE A LITTLE BIT OF BEVEL TRACED RIGHT ALONG THE OUTSIDE.

WE FIT SOME SCREWS IN THERE TO MAKE THAT SIT REAL TIGHT, AND SCREW IT BOTH FROM THE INSIDE AND THE OUTSIDE TO JOIN IT.

AND IT LOOKS LIKE IT'S WEAK GOING INTO THAT PINE, BUT IT ACTUALLY GOES INTO A SHELF THAT'S GONNA BE ON THE INSIDE HERE UNDER THE OAK SHELF SLIDES FOR OUR TRAYS.

SO THERE YOU GO.

YOU FINISH THIS THING UP, AND MAYBE YOUR TOOLS WON'T BE ALL OVER THE PLACE IN THE SHOP.

ANYWAY, HOPE YOU ENJOYED WORKING ON IT WITH ME, AND I HOPE YOU'LL BE BACK WITH ME AGAIN NEXT TIME RIGHT HERE ON THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP.

THIS IS ROY UNDERHILL.

SO LONG.

(announcer) LEARN MORE ABOUT THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP AND TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING ON OUR WEBSITE.

YOU CAN FIND US ONLINE AT: Captioning byCaptionMax www.captionmax.com (male announcer) MAJOR FUNDING FOR THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP IS PROVIDED BY: (male announcer) LIKE A GOOD NEIGHBOR, STATE FARM IS THERE.

(male announcer) WE ARE PBS.

(male announcer) ROY UNDERHILL IS THE AUTHOR OF THE WOODWRIGHT'S GUIDE: WORKING WOOD WITH WEDGE AND EDGE, AS WELL AS OTHER BOOKS ON TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING, ALL PUBLISHED BY THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA PRESS AND AVAILABLE IN BOOKSTORES AND LIBRARIES.