Joiner's Tool Chest Pt.1

(male announcer) MAJOR FUNDING FOR THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP IS PROVIDED BY: (male announcer) MORE THAN 40 MILLION PEOPLE WHO CARE FOR THEIR CARS AND HOMES CHOOSE STATE FARM FOR THEIR INSURANCE.

STATE FARM: A PROUD SUPPORTER OF THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP.

[horns beeping] [banjo strumming] [upbeat fiddle music] HEY, HELLO AGAIN.

WELCOME BACK TO THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP.

I'M ROY UNDERHILL, AND I AM SO GLAD YOU ARE HERE WITH ME TODAY.

I AM AS GLAD TO SEE YOU AS ROBINSON CRUSOE, THE MARINER OF YORK, WAS TO SEE A TREASURE, HE SAID, MORE VALUABLE TO HIM THAN "A LOADING OF GOLD."

IT WAS INDEED THE CARPENTER'S TOOL CHEST.

ROBINSON CRUSOE, 1719 SHIPWRECK, FOUND THE CARPENTER'S TOOL CHEST.

WELL, WE'RE GONNA MAKE OUR OWN TOOL CHEST, A SMALLER VERSION.

WE'RE GONNA MAKE THIS ONE RIGHT HERE.

WE'RE GONNA MAKE A SMALL VERSION OF A CARPENTER'S TOOL CHEST.

WE'LL CALL IT A JOINER'S TOOL CHEST.

IT'LL TAKE SMALLER TOOLS.

SO THIS IS A NEW ONE NOW, ALL RIGHT?

AND WE'RE GONNA LOOK AT THE OLD ONE FIRST, 'CAUSE THIS ONE DOES NOT GO BACK ALL THE WAY TO 1719.

OH, NO, NO, NO.

BUT IT'S VERY OLD.

THE FIRST THING YOU CAN SEE IS, LOOK HOW BIG AND WIDE THE BOARDS ARE.

I MEAN, THESE THINGS ARE-- IT'S OVER 24 INCHES TALL.

THESE BOARDS ARE 19-INCH WIDE, INCH-THICK TULIP POPLAR.

AND THEY'RE EXTENDED BY THAT SKIRT AROUND THE BOTTOM.

LET'S SEE IF WE HAVE ANY CLUES AS TO HOW OLD IT IS.

FIRST THING YOU LOOK AT IN SOMETHING LIKE THIS: LIFT UP THE LID, AND OF COURSE, THE HINGES ARE BROKEN OFF, OR ACTUALLY THE SCREWS CAME LOOSE, AND THAT IS OUR FIRST CLUE.

THE SCREW IS THE CLUE.

RIGHT HERE.

LOOK AT THAT.

YOU SEE THAT LITTLE SCREW THERE, HOW IT HAS NO POINT ON IT?

THIS IS A POINTLESS SCREW, AND IT IS AN INDICATOR OF THE AGE OF THIS CHEST.

THESE SCREWS GO BACK TO PRE-1846, 'CAUSE AFTER 1846, THEY LEARNED HOW TO MACHINE-MAKE A LITTLE POINT ON THE SCREW.

AND SO THESE WITHOUT A POINT THAT COME ACROSS SQUARE LIKE THAT, THOSE TELL YOU PRE-1846.

NOW, THE REST OF IT, OF COURSE: THE EXTRAORDINARY SIZE OF THESE BOARDS.

IT'S ALL TULIP POPLAR.

TULIP POPLAR: AMERICAN WOOD.

LOOK AT THIS TILL.

THIS SLIDES BACK AND FORTH.

LET ME TAKE THAT OUT A LITTLE BIT THERE, AND WE'LL TAKE A LOOK AT IT.

IT HAS AN OPENING IN THE TOP AND DRAWERS HERE.

YOU'LL SEE THIS DRAWER COMES OUT.

AND LOOK AT THE BOLDNESS OF THE DOVETAILS ON THAT DRAWER THERE.

DO YOU SEE HOW THEY SPLAY OUT VERY, VERY BOLDLY?

SO THIS IS QUITE-- [laughs] QUITE A PIECE HERE.

FELLA HAD A DANGEROUS SENSE OF PROPORTION WITH HIS DOVETAILS; THEY'RE VERY STEEP.

A FEW PEOPLE WOULD SAY, "OH, GOSH, THOSE ARE TOO STEEP.

THEY WOULD BREAK."

BUT THEY SURE HAVEN'T IN THIS ONE.

LET'S TAKE A LOOK INSIDE HERE.

THERE'S SOME COOL STUFF IN HERE.

THE WAY--ASIDE FROM THAT TILL, THE WAYS TOOLS ARE HELD-- IF YOU LOOK DOWN IN HERE, YOU CAN SEE THE LITTLE RACK BACK HERE WHERE THE MOLDING PLANES SET.

THIS HAD THE PLANES IN IT.

AND THEN DOWN FRONT HERE, THERE'S A WHOLE LITTLE CARVED-OUT RACK FOR CHISELS.

THESE ALL HAD WILLIAM ASH GOUGES IN ALL DIFFERENT SIZES DOWN THERE AND THEN THE CHISELS ALL THE WAY DOWN THERE.

SO THERE'S WONDERFUL LITTLE TOOL HOLDERS INSIDE OF OUR TOOL CHEST.

ALL RIGHT, SO A WONDERFUL OLD PIECE.

NOW, LOOK AT THESE BOARDS: AGAIN, 19 INCHES WIDE.

BUT THEY MADE IT EVEN WIDER BY EXTENDING ON A SKIRT ALL THE WAY AROUND THE BOTTOM, AND YOU CAN SEE THAT IF YOU LOOK DOWN HERE.

YOU CAN SEE HOW WE HAVE THAT BIG, WIDE BOARD, AND THEN DOWN AT THE BOTTOM HERE IS AN EVEN THICKER PIECE HELD ON THERE.

AND THE DOVETAILS GO THE OPPOSITE DIRECTION THERE.

THEN ON THE SIDES, TO COVER THAT, TO SCAB OVER IT, WE HAVE THIS MOLDED PIECE THAT GOES ALL THE WAY AROUND, BUT YOU CAN SEE IT ON THE BACK.

SO HERE WE HAVE THE TAILS ON THE END.

HERE WE HAVE THE TAILS ON THE-- [laughing] NO, WE HAVE THE TAILS ON THE END THERE TOO.

THEY'RE JUST A DIFFERENT SCALE.

SO ANYWAY, THIS IS SET ON THE BOTTOM THERE TO EXTEND THIS EVEN MORE.

NOW, WE'RE GONNA USE A DIFFERENT TECHNIQUE THERE.

WE'RE GONNA USE KIND OF AN INTERLOCK AND USE THAT MOLDED SKIRT IN A DIFFERENT WAY ON OURS.

SO LET'S TAKE A LOOK AT THAT ONE WE'RE GONNA DO.

AND I TELL YOU, I'M JUST GONNA SHOW YOU THE FUNDAMENTALS AND JUST KIND OF WALK THROUGH THE DOVETAILS BECAUSE THEY'RE REALLY STANDARD DOVETAILS LIKE WE'VE DONE SO OFTEN, BUT THERE ARE SOME PROBLEM DOVETAILS I HAVE TO LOOK AT.

IN FACT, WE'RE NOT EVEN GONNA THINK ABOUT THE LID.

WE'RE GONNA DO THAT THE NEXT TIME WE GET TOGETHER.

BUT LOOK AT THE LID HERE.

THIS IS A WONDERFUL LITTLE PANELED LID WITH MITERED CORNERS THERE.

AND THIS IS ALL WORK DONE WITH GROOVES.

THE GROOVES HOLD THIS TOGETHER, BUT IT'S THE DOVETAILS WE'RE GONNA CONCENTRATE ON NOW.

ALL RIGHT, SO I'LL PUT THAT ASIDE.

AND WE'LL TAKE A LOOK AT THE WAY WE DO THE DOVETAILS.

WE'RE JUST GONNA KIND OF STEP THROUGH IT REAL QUICK HERE.

HERE'S THE STANDARD DOVETAILS I HAVE ON THE SIDE, AND IF YOU'LL LOOK THAT THEM, THE ARE A KIND THAT YOU USUALLY SEE THESE DAYS, CERTAINLY THE KIND I DO MORE OFTEN.

THEY HAVE A SLOPE OF 1:6.

SO IF WE WERE TO SET OUR GAUGE HERE, ALL RIGHT, AS WE HAVE DONE THERE; THERE'S THE GAUGE SHOWING THE SLOPE, AND WE THEN SET THAT ON THE FRAMING SQUARE, LIKE THIS HERE.

SO YOU CAN SEE, IT CROSSES THE 1 DOWN THERE AND THEN THE 6 RIGHT HERE.

SO WE HAVE A SLOPE OF 1:6.

NOW, THAT'S WHAT I'M DOING ON THIS ONE.

BELIEVE IT OR NOT, THAT OTHER TOOL CHEST HAD A SLOPE OF 1:3, MUCH STEEPER DOVETAILS, BUT I'M GOING BACK TO 1:6.

BUT MY POINT IS, DON'T BE AFRAID TO DO THOSE BIG, BOLD DOVETAILS.

YOU CAN DO THAT.

ALL RIGHT, SO LAY THEM OUT AT WHATEVER ANGLE YOU WANT THERE, AND DON'T BE AFRAID TO MAKE VERY BOLD ANGLES, EVEN THOUGH IT'S NOT IN THE CURRENT VERNACULAR OF THE WORK.

AND THEN WHEN YOU LAY THEM OUT, USE A CUTTING GAUGE.

THIS IS A CUTTING GAUGE.

YOU CAN SEE IT HAS A BLADE.

DO YOU SEE THAT KNIFE BLADE THERE THAT ADJUSTS OUT THE DISTANCE FROM THE FENCE THAT YOU WANT?

HERE'S THE FENCE.

THERE'S THE KNIFE BLADE.

THIS IS THE REGULAR KIND OF GAUGE HERE.

THIS ONE HAS JUST A SCRATCHER.

YOU CAN SEE THE SCRATCHER THAT THAT HAS, THAT POINT.

NOW, YOU CAN SHARPEN THOSE A LITTLE BIT AND MAKE THEM NOT LEAVE A RAGGEDY, RAGGEDY LINE, OR YOU CAN DRAG THEM LIGHTLY, BUT THIS CUTTING GAUGE REALLY GIVES YOU AN ADVANTAGE HERE.

THIS WILL SEVER THE LINE.

YOU CAN SEE IT RIGHT THERE.

SEE THE LINE RIGHT THERE?

THAT IS THE LINE CUT BY THE CUTTING GAUGE AS I SLID IT ALONG WITH IT ADJUSTED TO ABOUT 1/32nd OF AN INCH THICKER THAN THE WOOD IS.

SO I HAD THE WOOD-- THE GAUGE IS SET ABOUT 1/32nd OF AN INCH THICKER.

THAT LEAVES A LITTLE BIT PROTRUDING THAT YOU CAN PLANE OFF LATER.

SO WE LAY OUT THE DOVETAILS HERE.

I'VE GOT A BUNCH OF THEM LAID OUT ON HERE.

AND WE JUST SAW THE-- JUST SAW THE SIDES OF IT.

WE DON'T TAKE OUT THE WASTE IN BETWEEN.

WE DO MARK THE WASTE, AS YOU CAN SEE THERE, WITH Xs.

YOU MARK THE WASTE WITH Xs BECAUSE WHEN YOU CUT OUT THAT WRONG PIECE, THAT'S ALL SHE WROTE.

SO THEN TAKE THE MATCHING PIECE, THE PIECE THAT YOU'RE GONNA JOIN.

AND AGAIN, IT'S BEEN LAID OUT WITH THAT CUTTING GAUGE SO THAT IT'S A LINED CUT, A SHALLOW-LINED CUT ABOUT 1/32nd OF AN INCH FARTHER BACK THAN THE WOOD IS THICK.

SET THIS ON THERE.

HOLD IT VERY TIGHT.

AND THEN, USING THE SAME SAW THAT WE USE TO CUT THESE-- THE TAILS THERE, THE SIDES THERE-- PUT THE SAW IN THE CURVE AND PULL IT BACK.

PUT THE SAW IN THE CURVE AND PULL IT BACK.

PUT IT IN THE CURVE; PULL IT BACK.

AND YOU DO THAT UNTIL YOU HAVE MARKED ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE END GRAIN.

I HAVEN'T DONE IT HERE.

WE'RE GONNA DO THAT AGAIN IN A LITTLE BIT.

BUT YOU MARK THE END GRAIN, AND THAT GIVES YOU SOMETHING THAT YOU CAN NOW SAW OPEN THERE.

SO YOU HAVE-- OH, LET ME TURN THAT AROUND.

THAT'S A LITTLE BIT BETTER.

THIS IS THE WAY IT LOOKS AFTER YOU'VE TRANSFERRED THE MARKS DOWN AND THEN, AGAIN, SAWN ON THE WASTE SIDE.

SO LOOK HOW THESE CORRESPOND.

SO THIS IS STANDARD DOVETAILING.

SO NOW WE HAVE THE SIDES CUT ON OUR TAILS.

THESE ARE THE PARTS THAT SPLAY OUT.

AND WE HAVE THE SIDES CUT ON OUR PINS, THE PIECES THAT FIT IN THERE.

WE'VE MARKED EVERYTHING WITH Xs.

ALL RIGHT, NOW WE'RE READY TO JUST GET IN THERE WITH A CHISEL AND CUT AWAY THE WOOD IN BETWEEN.

THERE YOU GO.

SO THAT WOOD JUST GETS CUT AWAY WITH A COPING SAW AND A CHISEL.

AND THEN THIS PIECE HERE, WE'LL CUT AWAY THE WEBBING IN BETWEEN, AND WE'VE GOT A REGULAR DOVETAIL.

SO THERE WE GO; IN A FEW SECONDS THERE, WE HAVE GONE ALL THE WAY THROUGH OUR DOVETAILING TECHNIQUE.

A LITTLE MORE TO TRIM IN THERE, BUT YOU CAN SEE HOW THAT'S FITTING UP PRETTY NICELY.

NOW, THAT'S GOING TO GIVE US THE DOVETAILS THAT WE HAVE HERE ON THE SIDES.

SO WE BRING THAT AROUND.

LET'S SEE.

I'VE GOT IT AT RIGHT ANGLES TO THE OTHER.

BUT THERE'S OUR STANDARD DOVETAILS, AND THEY PROTRUDE JUST A LITTLE BIT SO THAT WE CAN NOW GO OVER IT WITH A BLOCK PLANE AND TRIM OFF THOSE ENDS AND MAKE IT NICE AND SMOOTH THERE.

ALL RIGHT, NOW, THAT'S FINE, BECAUSE THESE ARE STANDARD DOVETAILS.

WHEN YOU LOOK DOWN LOWER, YOU CAN SEE THE DOVETAILS THAT WE'VE GOT TO DO ARE A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT.

FIRST OF ALL, I SET THEM AT RIGHT ANGLES TO THE DOVETAILS ON THIS CHEST.

AND YOU CAN SEE, THERE'S A MOLDING GOING AROUND HERE, AND IT GOES INTO A MITER.

WELL, THAT HAS A SPECIAL CONSIDERATION THERE, AND YOU ALSO SEE A SHALLOW DOVETAIL.

WELL, I TELL YOU WHAT.

I'M GONNA TURN THIS WHOLE THING AROUND.

LET ME GET EVERYTHING OUT OF THE WAY, AND I'M GONNA TURN THIS WHOLE MESS AROUND FOR YOU, AND WE'RE GONNA SEE HOW THAT LOOKS ON THE OTHER END.

I'M GONNA TAKE THIS AND SPIN IT, BECAUSE I HAVE A PART THAT'S NOT COMPLETE DOWN HERE, AND KNOCK IT APART, BECAUSE HERE IT IS WITHOUT THE MOLDING PLANED INTO IT.

YOU CAN SEE RIGHT HERE THAT SAME CORNER AGAIN.

AND IF I TAP IT APART, YOU'LL SEE THAT THIS BOTTOM ONE IS SHALLOW.

THERE'S NO DOVETAILING AT ALL UP THERE.

WHY IS THAT?

WHY DO WE HAVE THAT NO DOVETAILING AND THEN THE SHALLOW RIGHT THERE?

WELL, THEY'RE BOTH TO DO WITH THE GROOVES THAT JOIN THE BOTTOM AND THAT JOIN THE SKIRT TO THE TOP.

WE'LL TAKE THAT APART.

OH, IT'S WONDERFUL.

THERE YOU GO.

[chuckling] IT'S A DIFFICULT JOINT TO CUT, SO THAT'S WHY I WANT TO CONCENTRATE ON THAT.

WELL, YOU CAN SEE AGAIN, WE HAVE THE GROOVE THAT HOLDS THE BOTTOM.

NOW, THAT GROOVE WOULD SHOW ON THE OUTSIDE UNLESS WE CUT OUR DOVETAIL A LITTLE SHORTER HERE.

WE'VE DONE THAT; SEE HOW THAT'S SHALLOWER THEN THE OTHER TWO.

SO WE HAVE COMMON DOVETAILS, AND THEN WE HAVE A SHALLOW ONE.

AND THAT ALLOWS THIS TO BE A LITTLE BIT LONGER HERE AND CONCEAL THE GROOVE.

AND THEN THE TOP: WE CAN SEAL THE GROOVE THAT JOINS THE-- WHAT SHOULD I SAY?

WHERE THE SKIRT GOES IN?

IF YOU LOOK UP HERE, HERE'S THAT SKIRT GROOVE.

THERE YOU GO.

THERE'S THE SKIRT GROOVE.

AND HERE'S THAT OTHER SKIRT GROOVE.

THAT COVERS THAT AND ALLOWS US TO HAVE A MITER JOINT THAT WE CAN PLANE THE MOLDING INTO.

EVERYTHING LOCKS TOGETHER VERY, VERY STRONG, EVEN WITHOUT GLUE.

SO LET'S GO AHEAD AND DO THAT JOIN AND WORK HERE RIGHT AT THE LITTLE BENCH.

AND I'VE LAID THESE OUT, READY TO GO.

ALL RIGHT, HERE'S A PIECE OF THE SKIRT.

YOU CAN SEE THE WAY I'VE LAID IT OUT, AND YOU CAN SEE THE GROOVES IN THERE THAT I HAVE PLOWED WITH A PLOW PLANE.

THERE IT IS; THERE'S THE GROOVE TO HOLD THE BOTTOM.

HERE'S THE GROOVE THAT LINKS IT TO THE TOP, AND THE TOP IS SIMILARLY GROOVED.

I'VE ALREADY CUT THE SIDES OF THE DOVETAILS AND MARKED THE WASTE PIECES WITH Xs: ALWAYS IMPORTANT.

AND NOW WE CAN TRANSFER.

SO WE'RE READY TO TRANSFER.

SET THIS UP ABOUT LIKE THAT.

HERE'S OUR JOINING PIECE.

HOLD THAT OUT.

SET THAT RIGHT THERE.

AND WE SET IT RIGHT ON TOP.

AND YOU CAN SEE, I'VE ALREADY DONE MOST OF THIS WORK.

AND TAKE OUR LITTLE DOVETAIL SAW, SET IT IN THE GROOVE, AND PULL BACK.

SET IT IN THE GROOVE AND PULL BACK.

IN THE GROOVE, PULL BACK, AND SO FORTH ALL THE WAY ON DOWN.

NOW, THAT TRANSFERS THE MARKS, AS I SAID.

THEN WE SAW DOWN.

[imitates sawing noises] [laughing] THEN WE SAW THAT DOWN RIGHT THERE.

AND THEN WE CAN TAKE OUT THE WOOD IN BETWEEN.

WE TAKE THAT OUT WITH A COPING SAW.

NOW, HERE I'VE GOT TWO OF THEM ALREADY CUT.

THERE WE GO.

THAT'S READY TO GO.

AND THIS ONE.

[grunting] THAT NEEDS A LITTLE MORE.

LET'S SET THIS UP SO WE CAN DO A LITTLE MORE COPING, BECAUSE I WANT YOU TO SEE WHAT WE HAVE TO DO.

THERE'S ANOTHER REASON TO USE THAT CUTTING GAUGE.

YOU SEE, THAT CUTTING GAUGE PUTS A LINE RIGHT UNDER OUR SAW, WHICH USUALLY HAS THIS KIND OF "SHRAPNEL EXIT WOUND"-LOOKING TERRIBLE MESS WITH THE COPING SAW, BUT THAT STOPS THE SPLINTERING SO WE HAVE A VERY EVEN CUT WHEN WE COME BACK AND PARE.

ALL RIGHT, SO THESE ARE TWO COMMON SOCKETS FOR THE DOVETAILS.

THERE'S A PIN.

THIS IS THE ONE WE'RE CONCERNED ABOUT NOW.

HERE WE HAVE TO CONCEAL THE LITTLE GROOVE.

SO WE TAKE THE GAUGE, AND AGAIN, A CUTTING GAUGE WOULD BE BETTER, AND SET THE GAUGE TO THE DEPTH OF THE GROOVE.

SEE?

SO THERE'S OUR LITTLE PIN READY TO GO, SET RIGHT TO THE DEPTH OF THE GROOVE.

WE SCRIBE ACROSS THIS ONE.

WE KNOW WE'RE GONNA CUT THAT OFF UP TO THAT POINT.

AND HERE IS THE DEPTH AGAIN FROM THE END.

THIS MAY TAKE A LITTLE FINAGLING AFTER WE'RE DONE, BUT WE LAY IT AROUND, AND NOW WE'VE GOT THAT SHALLOWER LINE.

SO LET'S GO AHEAD AND CUT THIS ONE AS WE DID THE TWO BIG ONES HERE.

SO I'VE GOT THE DOVETAIL SAW, AND I SET IT JUST ON THE WASTE SIDE, NOT IN THE GROOVE THAT WE PULLED-- MARKED BY PUTTING BACK-- BUT JUST ON THE WASTE SIDE OF THAT LINE.

AND VERY CAREFULLY CUT PERFECTLY RIGHT ANGLES THERE RIGHT UP AND DOWN.

HERE AGAIN, YOU SEE, I'M NOT GETTING IN THAT GROOVE BUT JUST ON THE WASTE SIDE OF IT.

IT'S TOUGH, BECAUSE WHEN YOU DO THAT PULL-BACK MARKING METHOD, IT LEAVES A LITTLE GROOVE THAT YOUR SAW WANTS TO TRACK IN, BUT YOU CAN'T TRACK IN IT; YOU GOT TO CUT RIGHT BESIDE IT.

SO THERE WE ARE.

NOW WE GET READY TO CUT THIS OUT WITH A COPING SAW.

GONNA TRY AND TURN THE SAW.

WELL... GOT TO GET DOWN THERE AS CLOSE AS WE CAN.

REMOVE MOST OF THE WASTE WITH THE SAW.

YEAH.

ISN'T THAT NICE?

AND THAT LEAVES US THIS LITTLE STUB PIN RIGHT THERE, A LITTLE STUB PIN.

NOW WE'RE READY TO PARE IT OUT.

SO WE WORK WITH THE PARING CHISEL, AND THIS IS A CHISEL THAT'S SO THIN.

LOOK HOW THIN THAT CHISEL IS.

YOU DO NOT HIT THIS ONE WITH A MALLET, NO SIREE.

THIS IS JUST FOR PARING, PUSHING AND SMOOTHING ALONG.

WE'LL WORK THAT DOWN.

ALL RIGHT, LET'S DO THIS ONE DOWN HERE.

AGAIN WORK-- JUST LIKE THAT RIGHT THERE.

AND THEN YOU KIND OF HOLLOW IT OUT, AND YOU WANT TO CUT RIGHT UP TO IT.

YOU WANT TO GET TO THE POINT TO WHERE YOU'RE PUTTING THE CHISEL AT THE FINAL STROKE RIGHT IN THE GAUGE LINE... TO TRY AND GET AS MUCH AS WE CAN FROM ONE SIDE.

NOW, WE'RE RIGHT IN THAT GAUGE LINE NOW.

WE'RE GONNA JUST TURN IT AROUND, JUST SPIN IT, AND DO IT FROM THE BACK SIDE.

[chuckling] NOW, I'M GONNA SHOW YOU A SECOND WAY YOU WANT TO DO THIS.

CAREFULLY LIKE THIS, CUT FROM THE BACK SIDE AGAIN RIGHT UP-- OH, I LEFT A LITTLE BIT OF A DING IN THERE.

NOW, THIS IS THE END SIDE OF THE CHEST, BUT I WANT TO SHOW YOU, YOU WANT TO BE JUST AS CAREFUL HERE.

SO PARE THAT SMOOTH.

PARE THIS SMOOTH, ALL RIGHT?

SO PARE IT ALL SMOOTH, AGAIN, GOING-- FINAL CUT GOES RIGHT INTO THE GROOVE THERE, ALL RIGHT, THAT YOU CUT WITH THE CUTTING GAUGE.

AND I'LL SHOW YOU-- LET'S LOOK AT THE BIG CHEST AGAIN.

I'LL SHOW YOU WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DO THAT.

AS I WAS SAYING, LOOK HERE.

OKAY, HERE'S WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE IF YOU WERE TOUT RIGHT INTO THE LINE THAT YOU'VE MADE WITH THE CUTTING GAUGE, IF YOU USE A PROPER CUTTING GAUGE.

LOOK HOW NICE THIS IS ON THE INSIDE.

YOU CAN SEE, BOY, THAT'S JUST REAL SMOOTH ALL THE WAY DOWN.

ALL RIGHT, ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE BOTTOM THERE IS LOOKING PRETTY GOOD.

ALL RIGHT, NOW I'M GONNA PIVOT IT AROUND, AND YOU'RE GONNA SEE THIS OTHER CORNER HERE.

AND IF YOU LOOK IN HERE, EVEN THOUGH IT'S THE INSIDE OF THE CHEST, LOOK HOW SLOPPY THAT IS.

YOU CAN SEE IT A LITTLE BIT RIGHT THERE.

LOOK AT THAT: BIG GAP THERE, ALL THOSE GAPS.

YAI, YAI, YAI.

THAT'S WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DON'T CUT ON THAT-- SET YOUR CHISEL RIGHT IN THAT LINE IF YOU THINK YOU CAN DO IT ALL FROM ONE SIDE.

SO DO BE CAREFUL.

OTHERWISE, EVEN ON THE INSIDE, IT'LL LOOK-- IT'S WORTH IT.

ALL RIGHT.

SO WHERE WERE WE?

WE'VE GOT THIS THING-- THE SHALLOW ONE.

NOW WE'VE GOT TO DO THE MITER.

SO HERE, WE'LL SET THIS GUY UP IN THE VICE.

AND I HAVE A LITTLE MITER GAUGE.

YOU COULD USE, OF COURSE, THE FRAMING SQUARE SET AT EVEN CORNERS TO DO A 45 ON YOUR GAUGE LIKE THIS.

BUT HERE, I'VE GOT A LITTLE MITER TEMPLATE-- A LITTLE WOODEN MITER TEMPLATE.

JUST WANTED TO LAY IT OUT VERY CAREFULLY.

GONNA DO THIS WITH A PENCIL.

I'VE GOT THAT INSIDE SCRIBED LINE.

AND I'M GONNA MAKE THIS A LITTLE FAT.

SO INSTEAD OF GOING RIGHT TO THE LINE, I'M GONNA MOVE IT UP A LITTLE BIT AND LEAVE A LITTLE BIT OF FAT IN THERE AND BE CAREFUL HOW FAR DOWN I CUT.

THAT'S FOR DARN SURE, BECAUSE WE ARE GOING TO DO THIS BY A PROCESS CALLED KERFING IN.

ALL RIGHT, MOVE THAT OVER A LITTLE BIT.

YEAH.

ALL RIGHT.

SO WE LEAVE THIS A LITTLE BIT FAT BECAUSE, YOU KNOW, TO GET IT UP FLUSH IS A PROBLEM.

THERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT.

KERFING IN WILL SOLVE THAT.

SO WE'LL SEE THAT IN JUST A SECOND HERE.

WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO GO AHEAD AND CLEAR OUT THE ONE ON THE OTHER SIDE.

HERE, THIS PIECE IS ALREADY DONE.

WE GOT THE MITER UP TOP, AND WE GOT THE SHORT ONE DOWN AT THE BOTTOM, ALL RIGHT?

NOW WE GOT TO DO A LITTLE BIT HERE TO CLEAN OUT THE SOCKETS.

LET ME PUT THIS DOWN AT THE END OF THE BENCH.

I THINK YOU CAN SEE IT A LITTLE BETTER HERE.

UH, YOU SEE, THE PIECES I GOT THERE, THEY ARE READY TO CUT OUT.

NOW I'LL JUST START ONE.

YOU CAN USE A VERY NARROW-BEVEL CHISEL LIKE THIS, SEE?

SO HERE'S THE SAW CUT THAT YOU MADE DOWN THE SIDES.

NOW WE GOT TO CLEAN THIS OUT.

SO START AHEAD OF THE LINE A LITTLE BIT AND PUSH IN AND PUSH IN.

AND LET'S SEE IF I CAN DO THIS WITHOUT HAVING IT SLIP INTO ME, 'CAUSE USUALLY THIS WOOD IS SOFT ENOUGH.

I CAN JUST PUSH IT IN.

SO PUSH IN, PUSH IN A COUPLE OF CUTS CLOSE TO THE LINE.

AND THEN...RIGHT HERE, PUSH IN.

PUSH IN.

[grunting] ALMOST.

ALL RIGHT, AND THAT COMES OUT.

YOU'LL SEE WHAT THAT LOOKS LIKE WHEN I TAKE THAT PIECE OUT OF THERE, IF I CAN.

THERE YOU GO.

SEE, IT POPS OUT, AND YOU HAVE THE LITTLE-- THESE LITTLE PIECES THAT COME OUT, SUPPORTED ON BOTH SIDES, SO THERE IT IS.

THERE'S THE OPENING IN BETWEEN THERE, YEAH.

SO WE GET THOSE LITTLE WEBS OUT IN BETWEEN EACH OF THESE DOVETAILS HERE.

THESE ARE THE TAILS AND THE SPACES WHERE THE PINS WILL GO.

WE'LL GO AHEAD AND MITER THAT END OFF.

BUT I'VE GOT ONE THAT'S ALREADY DONE.

WE'LL TAKE A LOOK AT THAT, HOW WE DO THE KERFING IN, BECAUSE THAT'S SOMETHING-- YOU HAVE TO PROCEED WITH CARE WHEN YOU DO YOUR KERFING IN.

THIS CAN BE A REALLY RAGGED PROCESS UNLESS YOU'RE DOING WHAT I'M DOING HERE, WHICH IS WORKING ON A MITER.

IF YOU DO THIS WITH THE SHOULDER OF A TENON, YOU DO GET A KIND OF ROUGH LOOK HERE.

SO HERE'S A PIECE.

LET ME SEE IF I CAN LINE THESE UP.

AND THEN I'LL-- IF I GOT THE RIGHT PIECE WITH THE RIGHT PIECE.

OKAY, THAT'S GOOD.

SO THAT GOES IN THERE.

YOU CAN SEE, THERE'S THE SHALLOW PIECE LINKING UP.

[grunting] THERE WE GO.

IT GOES IN.

ALMOST THERE.

NOW I'M GONNA TURN THIS UP JUST SO I CAN KIND OF KNOCK DOWN ON TOP OF IT.

[grunting] AND YOU BRING IT UP AS TIGHT AS YOU CAN.

BUT IT WON'T CLOSE; YOU CAN SEE HOW IT WON'T CLOSE BECAUSE THIS IS TIGHT RIGHT HERE, AND SO THESE JOINTS ARE HELD OPEN.

SO THEY CAN'T GO ALL THE WAY UNTIL WE'VE TAKEN THIS STUFF DOWN EXACTLY FLUSH, BUT YOU CAN THINK ABOUT IT.

IF WE KEEP GOING ON THAT-- YOU KNOW, ONCE YOU MAKE THIS SHALLOW, THERE'S NO GOING BACK.

SO YOU GOT TO GET THIS RIGHT, AND THE WAY WE'LL DO IT IS JUST BY BEING REAL CAREFUL.

I'VE GOT TWO LITTLE PINS RIGHT HERE.

AND SET THAT RIGHT THERE.

ALL RIGHT, THAT'LL GIVE ME SOMETHING TO GO ON.

AND I SHOULD HAVE A LITTLE SQUARE.

SO I CHECK THIS TO MAKE SURE IT'S SQUARE.

YOU DON'T WANT TO FORGET THAT PART.

BRING THIS THING TIGHT, CHECK IT FOR SQUARE, MAKE SURE IT'S UP PLENTY TIGHT AND PLENTY SQUARE.

AND THEN TAKE YOUR SAW, AND YOU'RE GONNA KERF IT IN BY SETTING THE SAW-- AND THIS IS THE WAY THEY USED TO WORK IN THE ANCIENT DAYS, DOING BOARDS BEFORE THEY USED PLANES THAT ACTUALLY SAW DOWN THE KERF, I UNDERSTAND IT, BETWEEN BOARDS IN A SHIP AND TAKE AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF WOOD FROM BOTH SIDES OF THE KERF-- NOW, I'VE GOT TO KNOW WHEN TO STOP.

TAKE AN EQUAL AMOUNT OF WOOD FROM BOTH SIDES OF THE KERF, AND THEN THEY WOULD FIT TOGETHER.

NOW, THEY'D BE USING A VERY FLEXIBLE SAW AND SAW CURVED.

SO I'M GONNA STOP, I HOPE, JUST AT THAT LAST LITTLE BIT THERE.

I DON'T WANT TO GO TOO DEEP.

AND THERE MAY BE A LITTLE BIT OF WASTE IN THERE, BECAUSE I THINK I TOOK OFF A LITTLE FEATHER OF WOOD.

WE'LL SEE IF I CAN GET THAT FEATHER OUT OF THERE.

THERE WE GO.

A LITTLE FEATHER OF WOOD.

MAN, THAT SHOULD ACTUALLY HAVE BEEN SAWED ONE MORE STROKE, BUT I GUESS IT WAS BETTER TO DO IT THAT WAY.

ALL RIGHT, NOW WHAT'S GONNA HAPPEN-- LOOK WHAT'S GONNA HAPPEN.

I'M GONNA BE ABLE, I HOPE, WITHOUT KNOCKING EVERYTHING OFF THE BENCH TOP, TO TAP THIS, AND WE'LL SEE IT CLOSE UP A LITTLE BIT MORE HERE.

SO... ALL RIGHT, AND YOU CAN SEE HOW THAT JOINT CLOSED UP JUST THAT MUCH MORE.

ALL RIGHT, SO NOW WHAT DO WE DO AGAIN?

WE TAKE THE SAW AGAIN AND KERF RIGHT ON DOWN AS YOU-- YOU JUST DO THIS ENOUGH TIMES THAT IT CLOSES UP JUST RIGHT, AND THEN YOU'VE GOT IT, AND IT'S A BEAUTIFUL, BEAUTIFUL JOINT WITH THE MITER UP THERE THAT'LL ALLOW YOU TO PLANE THE MOLDING RIGHT THROUGH THERE.

AND IT ALSO-- LOOK AT THE INSIDE.

WHAT THAT ADVANTAGE IS HERE, WHAT WE'RE REALLY TRYING TO DO IS COVER THAT GROOVE THAT DOES THE INTERLOCK TO THE MAIN PART OF THE TOOL CHEST.

WELL, LET'S GO AHEAD AND TAP THIS TOGETHER.

AND I HAVE A SECOND TO LOOK AT THE PLANE FOR THE MOLDING HERE.

SO I'VE GOT THE END PIECE HERE READY.

AND THERE'S OUR GROOVES GOING IN.

GROVES GO IN.

ALL RIGHT, AND THEY WILL TAP UP.

AND SO YOU SEE HOW I DO THAT SO THAT CLOSES UP JUST FINE.

THAT LEAVES A MITER JOINT AT THE TOP NOW THAT WE CAN RUN THE MOLDING THROUGH.

AND LET'S SEE.

I'M GONNA TURN THIS THING.

GIVE THIS THING A TOTAL 180 HERE BECAUSE WE'VE GOT SOME MOLDING DOWN THERE AT THE END.

YEAH, HERE WE GO.

YOU CAN SEE THE OGEE MOLDING... THAT I HAVE PUT RIGHT THROUGH THAT CORNER, WHICH YOU CAN DO AND HAVE A NICE TURN ON IT BECAUSE IT HAS THE MITER-- SORRY, BECAUSE WE HAD THE LITTLE MITER.

YOU CAN PLANE INTO A MITER.

SO WHERE'S THE PLANE?

I HAVE FOR THAT HERE-- OKAY, WE'RE GONNA TRY THAT ON A SCRAP PIECE I'VE BEEN USING TO SHARPEN IT.

THIS PLANE IS COOL.

IT HAS, OF COURSE, THE SPRING.

WHEN YOU DO THESE KIND OF OBLIQUE MOLDINGS, THEY HAVE A SPRING LINE.

YOU SEE THAT RIGHT THERE?

THAT SHOWS YOU HOW TO HOLD IT ON THE WOOD.

AND I'VE GOT THIS SCRAP, WHERE I WAS JUST TESTING THE SHARPNESS.

THERE YOU GO.

AND THAT'S CALLED AN OGEE MOLDING.

AND THE SHAVINGS ARE COMING OUT NICE BECAUSE I PUT A LITTLE TALLOW ON THE INSIDE THERE.

LET'S GO AHEAD AND PUT THE LID ON OUR BOX.

WE'RE GONNA SEE HOW TO DO THE LID, HOW TO FIT THE BOTTOM, AND HOW TO DO THIS COOL TURNED HANDLE RIGHT HERE WHEN WE GET BACK TOGETHER AND FINISH UP OUR LITTLE JOINER'S TOOL CHEST.

THAT'S ALL COMING NEXT TIME HERE ON THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP.

I'LL SEE YOU THEN.

(announcer) LEARN MORE ABOUT THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP AND TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING ON OUR WEBSITE.

YOU CAN FIND US ONLINE AT: Captioning byCaptionMax www.captionmax.com (male announcer) MAJOR FUNDING FOR THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP IS PROVIDED BY: (male announcer) LIKE A GOOD NEIGHBOR, STATE FARM IS THERE.

(male announcer) WE ARE PBS.

(male announcer) ROY UNDERHILL IS THE AUTHOR OF THE WOODWRIGHT'S GUIDE: WORKING WOOD WITH WEDGE AND EDGE, AS WELL AS OTHER BOOKS ON TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING, ALL PUBLISHED BY THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA PRESS AND AVAILABLE IN BOOKSTORES AND LIBRARIES.