Carta Musica with Jody Adams

HELLO, I'M JULIA CHILD.

WELCOME TO MY HOUSE AND TO MY KITCHEN AND TO ANOTHER CULINARY ADVENTURE WITH TWO OF AMERICA'S MASTER CHEFS.

MY GUESTS TODAY ARE... JODY ADAMS, EXECUTIVE CHEF OF RIALTO AT THE CHARLES HOTEL RIGHT HERE IN CAMBRIDGE, MASS.

AND FROM LOS ANGELES, CHEF/OWNER OF PATINA, JOACHIM SPLICHAL.

WE'RE ABOUT TO DO A LOVELY... LIGHT FIRST COURSE CALLED "CARTA MUSICA" WITH A SALAD ON TOP OF IT.

AND JODY IS GOING TO EXPLAIN WHAT IN THE WORLD THAT MEANS.

A CARTA MUSICA ACTUALLY MEANS "SHEET MUSIC".

NAMED BECAUSE IT'S SO THIN AND STACKED LI KE SHEET MUSIC.

IT'S ALSO KNOWN AS "S ARDINIAN FLAT BREAD" OR "PARCHMENT BREAD."

AND APPARENTLY WA S CARRIED BY SHEEP HERDERS IN SARDINIA.

HOW DID THEY CARRY IT?

WE DON'T KNOW.

WE DON'T KNOW.

OR MAYBE THEY COOKED IT ON HOT ROCKS.

ACTUALLY, THAT'S, THAT'S A VERY... THAT'S PROBABLY WHAT HAPPENED.

IT'S VERY CRISP AND...

IT'S VERY CRISP.

IT'S A VERY, VERY SI MPLE, SIMPLE BREAD.

YOU START WITH AL L-PURPOSE FLOUR.

ONE-QUARTER CUP OF SEMOLINA FLOUR.

SO IT'S ONE PART SE MOLINA TO TWO PARTS AL L-PURPOSE.

A PINCH OF SALT.

AND I LIKE TO DO THIS RIGHT ON THE COUNTER.

I THINK THAT IT'S NICE TO WORK WITH AS FEW UTENSILS AS POSSIBLE AND... YOU HAVE LESS TO WASH. LESS TO WASH. AND THEN YOU REALLY FEEL WHAT THINGS AR E SUPPOSED TO FEEL LIKE.

THAT WAS ABOUT HOW MUCH WATER?

JUST ABOUT ON E-THIRD OF A CUP.

AND I'LL WAIT AND SEE IF I WANT TO ADD IT ALL.

IS THIS THE OLD FASHIONED WAY OF MAKING A DOUGH?

MM-HMM.

AND YOU KNOW WHAT THEY SAY ABOUT BREAKING A WELL?

OOPS.

WHAT?

THAT IF THE WELL BREAKS YOU WILL NEVER MARRY.

SO I THINK YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL.

YOU DO INDEED.

THIS ENDS UP WITH NOTHING -- NOTHING BUT FLOUR AND WATER.

AND A LITTLE SALT, YE AH.

AND THAT'S, THAT'S IT?

IT'S AMAZING.

NO YEAST, NO BUTTER, NO OIL, NO NOTHING.

YOU CAN'T GET ANY SI MPLER THAN THIS.

YOU CERTAINLY CAN'T.

OKAY, AND THEN KN EAD IT.

I DON'T THINK THIS NE EDS ANYMORE WATER.

I LIKE TO KNEAD WI TH TWO HANDS.

SO I PUSH FORWARD AN D PULL BACK.

IN A KIND OF A ROCKING WAY.

AND YOU'RE KNEADING UNTIL WHAT HAPPENS?

UNTIL IT'S NICE AN D SMOOTH AND IT FEELS KIND OF SWEATY ON YOUR PALMS.

OH.

AND IF YOU HELD ON TO IT FOR A LONG TIME IT WOULD STICK.

BUT IF YOU MOVE QUICKLY IT WON'T.

THAT'S ALMOST IT, ISN'T IT?

YEAH.

SO THERE.

YES, THAT'S REALLY ABOUT THE WAY A FRENCH BREAD DOUGH SHOULD BE TOO.

MM-HUH.

AND SEAL IT.

A NICE WAY TO STORE IT IS IN A PLASTIC BAG SO IT DOESN'T DRY OUT.

AIR TIGHT.

AIR TIGHT.

AND THIS CAN SIT IN E REFRIGERATOR OVERNIGHT OR IT CAN JUST SIT OUT FO R AN HOUR OR SO.

JUST TO LET IT REST.

THIS IS WELL RESTED.

JUST OVERNIGHT.

AND THIS WILL MA KE EIGHT.

IN ORDER TO MAKE A NICE ROUND DISK IT'S IMPORTANT TO ROLL TH ESE INTO EVEN BALLS.

AND YOU CAN DO IT BY ROLLING LIKE THIS.

WHAT YOU'RE DOING IS PULLING THE DOUGH DO WN AROUND...

THE SURFACE DOUGH DO WN AROUND TO FORM.

IT'S JUST LIKE MAKING A FRENCH BREAD ROLL.

YEAP, EX ACTLY THE SAME.

PEOPLE HAVE TROUBLE WITH THIS MOVEMENT PARTICULARLY WITH TW O HANDS.

IT'S ONE THAT TAKES A LITTLE PRACTICE.

A LITTLE PRACTICE, AS MOST THINGS DO.

YEAH.

AND YOU DON'T PUT FL OUR ON THE BOARD BECAUSE THE DOUGH WI LL HAVE NOTHING TO GRIP.

UH-HUH.

IT WILL SLIDE.

AND IDEALLY, TH ESE WOULD SIT FO R 10 MINUTES.

BUT WE'RE MOVING ON TO THE NEXT STEP AND ROLL OUT THE DOUGH.

START, THAT'S A LITTLE TO O MUCH FLOUR.

AT THIS POINT I WORK IT LIKE THIS.

KIND OF PUSHING OUT AN D STRETCHING.

THIS DOES TAKE SO ME TIME BUT IT'S WORTH TH E EFFORT.

IF YOU DON'T DO IT SLOWLY IT TENDS TO RIP.

THIS IS ALL FOR PEOPLE WHO LOVE TO COOK.

THEY'RE NOT INTERESTED IN ASSEMBLY JOBS.

SO WE CAN ALMOST SE E THROUGH IT.

MM-HUH.

HOW DO YOU TELL WHEN YOU'VE ROLLED ENOUGH?

WELL, THEY ACTUALLY WI LL WORK IF THEY'RE A LITTLE THICKER BUT I LIKE TO TAKE THEM... ...REALLY THIN.

REALLY THIN.

I THINK THIS IS...

THIS IS NICE.

AND THEN I JU ST PUSH -- PUSH THE EDGES DOWN A LITTLE BIT MORE BECAUSE THEY TEND TO BE THICKER.

AND WE'LL PUT THIS ST RAIGHT LIKE THIS RIGHT ON THE STONE.

WE HAVE A HEATED PIZZA STONE IN HERE.

AND THE OVEN'S AT ABOUT 400° OR 450°.

JUST SLAP HER ON.

SLAP HER ON.

CLOSE HER UP.

IT IS DONE.

THAT'S WONDERFUL.

AND HOW LONG WILL THESE KEEP ONCE MADE?

I KEEP THEM ABOUT FO UR DAYS IN A SEALED CONTAINER.

I'VE KNOWN PEOPLE TO KEEP THEM FO R TWO WEEKS.

NOW, WE'RE GOING TO MAKE THE SALAD.

OH, THIS IS GOING TO BE OUR NICE FIRST COURSE.

...TO GO ON TOP OF THE CARTA MUSICA.

WE'LL START WI TH FAVA BEANS WHICH COME IN TH IS BEAUTIFUL, COZY BAG.

AND I'VE TAKEN THEM OU T OF THE POD... BLANCHED THEM, AN D THEN PEELED THEM.

MUCH EASIER TO PEEL WHEN THEY'RE BLANCHED.

THEY'RE BLANCHED.

THE SKINS AR E QUITE BITTER SO YOU DON'T WANT TO INCLUDE THEM.

SCALLIONS SLICED ON THE DIAGONAL.

WELL, THAT LOOKS NICE.

A LITTLE BIT OF THE GREEN ADDED IN.

BLANCHED AND SL ICED ASPARAGUS.

IS THAT PEELED OR NOT?

YES, PEELED.

PEELED.

AND LITTLE GREEN BEANS OR HARICOTS VERTS.

AND THOSE HAVE JUST BEEN BLANCHED, TOO.

AND WE'LL PUT IN A LITTLE LEMON ZEST.

THOSE ARE WONDERFULLY USEFUL.

YOU CERTAINLY DO IT RAPIDLY TOO.

OH, THEY ARE GREAT.

IT LEAVES THE WHITE PITHY BITTER PART ON THE LEMON AND JUST GIVES YOU TH E YELLOW.

THIS IS WHOLE OREGANO.

OREGANO, YEAH.

AND WE HAVE PA RSLEY LEAVES.

I LIKE FRESH... IS THAT, THAT'S ITALIAN.

YES, FRESH PA RSLEY LEAVES.

YEAH.

DON'T WANT TOO MUCH OF THE STEM BUT A LITTLE DOESN'T HURT.

YOU COULD PUT ANYTHING YOU WANT IN THIS SALAD BUT THIS IS WHAT YOU LIKE.

ANYTHING, YES.

THIS IS NICE IN THE SPRING... WHAT'S THIS?

.. .TO HAVE, TH IS IS ARUGULA.

IN THE WINTER IT 'S NICE TO USE ROASTED VEGETABLES ON THE SALAD.

SO, SOME OLIVE OIL.

BEST QUALITY OLIVE OIL.

MM-HUH.

SOME LEMON JUICE.

OH, THIS IS A GREAT... PEPPER.

SALT.

YOUR KOSHER SALT.

THAT'S A NICE MIXTURE.

IT'S FUN HAVING IT ALL GREEN FOR A CHANGE NOT HAVING THE USUAL UNRIPE TOMATOES.

YEAH, WE CAN DO WITHOUT THOSE.

NOW, ASSEMBLING.

THE SALAD.

CARTA MUSICA ON THE PLATE.

I'VE NEVER HEARD OF THIS KIND OF A SALAD.

I AM JUST FASCINATED.

WHY IS IT SO UNUSUAL TO YOU?

I'VE NEVER SEEN ANYTHING LIKE IT.

PUTTING A SALAD ON A BIG, FLAT -- SOMETHING OR OTHER?

LET'S SEE IF WE CAN GE T THIS TIGHT.

IS THIS A TYPICAL ITALIAN SPRING SALAD?

THE SALAD ITSELF IS.

PUTTING IT ON CARTA MUSICA AS FAR AS I REMEMBER, IT WAS MY IDEA.

WELL, CERTAINLY CLAIM IT THEN.

THE PECORINO ROMANO CHEESE WHICH IS A NICE, HA RD SHARP.

IS THAT ITALIAN PECORINO OR WAS IT, WE FOUND IT WAS AMERICAN?

YEAH, I THINK IT 'S FROM NEW YORK.

PROBABLY MADE IN WISCONSIN.

AND THIS IS?

TABLE RICOTTA OR DRY RICOTTA MADE ALSO WITH SHEEP'S MI LK CHEESE.

AND THIS IS ITALIAN.

MMM.

NOW, HOW ARE YOU GOING TO EAT IT?

START WITH A LITTLE MO RE OLIVE OIL.

YEAH.

YOU NEVER HAVE TO O MUCH.

CRACK OFF A PIECE OF THE CRACKER.

AND TAKE A PIECE OF CHEESE.

AND THEN A LITTLE SALAD.

MMM.

MMM.

WELL, THIS IS FUN ISN'T IT?

MM -HMM.

I'LL TRY THE... THAT NICE... THAT'S GOOD.

IT TASTES LIKE SPRING, DO ESN'T IT?

I LIKE IT BECAUSE IT'S SO SIMPLE AND FRESH AND THAT DELICIOUS OLIVE OIL IN IT.

A GREAT IDEA.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

THANK YOU.

CHEF JOACHIM IS GOING TO SHOW US A VERY SPECIAL LASAGNA THAT HAS POTATOES FEATURING IN IT.

WHAT'S IT GOING TO BE, CHEF?

IT'S A POTATO CHANTERELLE MUSHROOM LASAGNA... THAT SOUNDS WONDER.

...WITH A FLAT PARSLEY SAUCE.

IT HAS NO PASTA IN IT, JUST POTATOES.

JUST POTATO.

GREAT.

I WILL SLICE THE LEEK.

THIS IS FOR THE SAUCE.

VERY COARSELY.

YOU'RE GOING TO USE ALL THE GREEN?

YEAH, THE GREEN AND THE WHITE.

AND THEN WE USE TH E CELERY.

WE DO THE SAME.

THE SAUCE IS BASICALLY DONE WITH A VEGETABLE STOCK... OH, GOOD.

...WHICH WE CALL "NAGE".

WE USE A LITTLE BIT OF ONION, HALF AN ONION.

WHITE ONION.

MM-HUH.

SLICE IT ALSO VE RY COARSELY.

WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY NAGE?

WHY IT'S A FRENCH TERM AND MOST OF THE TIME TH E FRENCH USE IT WHEN THEY DO FISH SAUCES.

AND IN OUR RESTAURANT WE USE THAT PA RTICULAR SAUCE FOR ALL FISH DISHES, AL L VEGETARIAN DISHES.

WHAT IS THAT?

THAT'S A SHALLOT YOU'RE DOING THERE AND I'M CUTTING ON E SHALLOT.

YOU HEAT UP THE PAN.

JUST A LITTLE BIT OF BUTTER.

MELT THE BUTTER.

WHEN THE BUTTER IS MELTED WE ADD ALL TH E VEGETABLES.

WE ALSO NEED GARLIC.

AND YOU SWEAT THEM ON HIGH HEAT FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES TI L THEY FOLD.

YOU MEAN UNTIL THEY GET KIND OF LIMP?

YEAH.

YEAH.

SO... THAT'S GETTING LIMP ISN'T IT?

YEAH, IT'S SWEATED FO R ABOUT SIX, SE VEN MINUTES.

AND WE'LL ADD THE THYME TO IT NOW.

JUST LIKE THIS.

AND WE'LL DEGLAZE IT WITH SOME WHITE WINE.

YEAH, THAT'S ABOUT ONE-THIRD OF A CUP.

SOMETHING LIKE THAT.

ONE-THIRD OF A CUP.

AND WE LET IT REDUCE FOR ABOUT ONE MINUTE.

WE'LL ADD TH E WATER TO IT.

AND JUST TO COVER TH E VEGETABLES BASICALLY.

IT'S REALLY A NICE VE GETABLE BROTH.

THAT'S WHAT A, YOU WOULD... YEAH, AND YOU CA N USE...

SO A NAGE IS A VEGETABLE BROTH FOR COOKING THINGS IN.

YEAH.

AND THEN ALL THAT WI LL REDUCE.

WHAT YOU WANT IS AN INTENSE FLAVOR I GUESS?

YEAH, IT'S VE RY IMPORTANT THAT IT REDUCES DOWN AP PROXIMATELY HALF.

AND THEN AFTERWARDS WH EN WE STRAIN IT WE WILL REDUCE IT AGAIN.

AFTER COOKING AP PROXIMATELY 20 MINUTES IT'S REALLY REDUCED NOW AND YOU SEE... ALL THE PRETTY COLOR IS GONE.

THE PRETTY COLOR IS GONE.

YEAH.

AND YOU HAVE, UH...

...APPROXIMATELY HALF OF THE LIQUID LEFT.

AND WE WILL STRAIN IT.

AND IT'S IMPORTANT TH AT YOU USE A LADLE AND THEN PRESS AL L THE LIQUID OUT.

GET ALL OF THE JUICE OUT.

MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET AL L THE JUICE OUT OF IT BECAUSE IT'S VERY FL AVORFUL IN ESSENCE.

SO WE HAVE NOT MU CH JUICE LEFT.

WE WILL REDUCE IT A BIT MORE MORE ON LOW HEAT.

I WILL START NOW WI TH THE POTATOES.

WE USE A REGULAR POTATO.

A LARGE ONE, IF POSSIBLE.

I CUT THE POTATO IN A RECTANGULAR SHAPE.

ALL FOUR SIDES OFF.

IS THAT, IS THAT A BAKING POTATO?

YEAH, A REGULAR BAKING POTATO.

A NICE BIG ONE.

THERE ARE SMALL PIECES OF SKIN YOU CUT OFF.

WE USE A MANDOLINE.

IT'S ONE OF THOSE LITTLE ORIENTAL ONES.

YEAH.

I NOTICE ON HERE IT SAYS, "WATCH YOUR FINGERS."

YEAH.

SO I WILL.

AND WE CUT SLICES.

OH, REALLY THIN.

THIS THICK APPROXIMATELY.

THAT'S ABOUT 1/16 OF AN INCH THICK -- EVEN IF THAT MUCH.

AND WE NEED 16 SLICES.

SO WE HAVE TH E 16 PIECES.

AND JUST ONE POTATO DID ALL THAT?

YEAH.

WE USE A COOKIE SHEET.

I PREPARED CLARIFIED BU TTER BEFORE.

IT'S MUCH THE BEST TASTE.

AND WE BRUSH TH E PARCHMENT PAPER WITH THE CLARIFIED BUTTER.

AND THAT'S JUST MELTED BUTTER THAT'S MELTED DOWN AND THEN YOU JUST USE THE CLEAR YELLOW PART.

YEAH.

AND WE ADD A LITTLE BIT... OH, PEPPER, RIGHT ON THE PAPER.

PEPPER ON THE PAPER.

A LITTLE BIT SALT.

JUST A TOUCH.

DO YOU ALWAYS USE COARSE SALT?

YEAH, ALWAYS.

I PLACE THE POTATOES LI KE THAT.

THOSE ARE REALLY VERY THIN, AREN'T THEY?

PROBABLY LESS THAN 1/16 OF AN INCH?

YEAH, THAT'S RIGHT.

YEAP.

WE BUTTER THEM AGAIN.

AND A LITTLE BIT SA LT AGAIN.

A TOUCH OF PEPPER.

AND WE PUT ANOTHER PA RCHMENT PAPER OVER IT.

AND ANOTHER COOKIE SHEET.

A TWIN PAN.

THAT'S TO KEEP THEM FLAT I GUESS?

YES.

AND WE PUT IT IN AN OVEN OF 350°.

I'LL OPEN IT UP FOR YOU.

THANK YOU.

AND COOK ABOUT FI VE TO SEVEN MINUTES.

LET'S CHECK IF TH E POTATOES ARE READY.

COULD YOU REMOVE THAT SHEET PLEASE?

MM-HUH.

THANK YOU.

ARE THEY SIZZLING?

YEAH, THEY LOOK GOOD.

YES.

NOW, HOW CAN YOU TELL TH AT THEY'RE DONE?

YOU JUST, YOU SEE... OH, YES, IT...

YES, DEFINITELY.

THEY'RE TOTALLY COOKED.

AND THAT'S TE RRIBLY IMPORTANT.

WE DON'T WANT THEM PA RTIALLY RAW.

AND WE LEAVE, LET THEM... BECAUSE YOU DON'T WANT TO OVERDO THEM.

THEY SHOULD BE REALLY WELL, WELL DONE.

YEAH.

LOVELY, AND SOFT, AN D DELICIOUS.

I WILL START WITH TH E MUSHROOMS NOW -- CHANTERELLE MUSHROOMS.

AND WE... CHANTERELLES.

AND NORMALLY, I JUST CLEAN TH E MUSHROOMS LIKE THIS.

I JUST CLEAN THE STEM A LITTLE BIT.

AND I NEVER PUT THEM IN WATER BECAUSE...

THEY SOAK IT UP.

...THEY JUST SOAK IT UP.

AND THEN I JUST SL ICE THEM.

LENGTHWISE.

YEAP.

IT'S A LOVELY MUSHROOM ISN'T IT?

IT HAS SUCH A, SO MUCH FLAVOR.

YEAP.

NOW, WE'LL USE A LITTLE BIT OF BUTTER.

AND IT'S VERY IMPORTANT WH EN YOU DO MUSHROOMS THAT THE BUTTER GETS BROWN.

IT GIVES RIGHT AWAY A FLAVOR TO THE MUSHROOM.

SO A SLICED UP SHALLOT.

VERY FINELY MINCED.

YEAP.

IT TIS BROWNING RIGHT IN THERE.

YEAP.

WE ADD THE CHANTERELLES.

A LITTLE BIT OF SALT.

A LITTLE BIT OF PEPPER.

THEY CHANGE COLOR NOW.

I WILL SLICE -- THIS IS A PEELED TOMATO WE PEELED BEFORE.

IT'S COOKED IN HOT WATER FO R ONE MINUTE AND THEN PEELED OFF.

YOU'RE CUTTING AROUND THE CORE, I SEE.

YEAP.

CUT ALL THE SKIN OFF.

AND THEN WE'RE JUST GO ING TO DICE IT.

IS THAT GOING TO GO IN WITH THE MUSHROOMS?

THIS IS FOR THE SAUCE AF TERWARDS.

OH, MM-HMM.

WE'LL ADD THE SHALLOTS.

CHOPPED SHALLOTS.

CHOPPED SHALLOTS TO THE...

THEY DON'T GO IN REALLY UNTIL THE MUSHROOMS ARE ALMOST DONE.

THEY'RE ALMOST DONE, YE AH.

THEY WILL ADD FLAVOR TO IT.

WE'LL JUST PLACE THEM... ...ON A PLATE AGAIN.

AND WHAT I WILL DO -- I WILL ASSEMBLE TH E LASAGNA NOW.

JUST PUT LAYER BY LAYER ON TOP OF IT.

AND THEN WE'LL PUT TH E SECOND ONE ON TOP.

OH, ISN'T THIS FUN.

IT'S NICE THAT TH E CHANTERELLES WERE SO SMALL SO YOU CAN REALLY HANDLE THEM WELL.

ANOTHER LAYER OF POTATO ON TOP.

AND THE LAST LAYER.

WE'LL PUT THEM BACK IN THE OVEN AND KEEP THEM HOT WHILE WE FINISH TH E SAUCE.

MM-HMM.

WE KEEP THEM IN THE OVEN ON ABOUT 200° TO KEEP THEM WARM.

GOOD.

OH, THERE'S...

I ADD THE BUTTER... THAT'S YOUR NAGE.

...TO THE NAGE.

WE'RE GOING TO MAKE A WHITE -- KIND OF BUTTER SAUCE.

YEAH.

AND WE JUST ADDED A LITTLE BIT THAT THE BUTTER GE TS A LITTLE BIT WARM.

NOW YOU WILL BE AMAZED -- IT'S A LOT OF BUTTER.

WELL, YOU'RE NOT GOING TO EAT THIS EVERYDAY.

NO, YOU WON'T.

NOW I PUT IT IN A BLENDER.

SO... (blender churning) IT'S VERY WELL EM ULSIFIED.

AND WE PUT IT BACK IN TO THE SAUCE PAN.

YES, THAT'S BEAUTIFUL.

IT LOOKS LIKE A CREAM SAUCE WITHOUT CREAM.

AND WE KEEP IT ON A VERY LOW HEAT.

IN THE MEANTIME -- I WILL JUST CHOP A LITTLE BIT OF PARSLEY.

ITALIAN FLAT LEAF?

YEAH.

AND IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE SO FINE.

WE'LL FINISH THE SAUCE.

PARSLEY.

I'LL ADD TOMATO CUBES.

BUT YOU DO THIS AT THE LAST SECOND.

AND A LITTLE BIT PEPPER.

SOME SALT.

SOME SALT.

IF YOU WOULD LI KE TO TASTE IT?

OH, I WOULD.

MMM, THAT'S PERFECT.

PERFECT.

JUST LOVELY.

OKAY.

WE PLACE THE LASAGNA IN THE MIDDLE OF THE PLATE.

MMM.

JUST SAUCE OVER IT.

THAT TOMATO IS REALLY JUST WHAT WAS NEEDED WASN'T IT, TO GIVE IT... A LITTLE BIT OF COLOR AND... WELL, THAT'S LOVELY.

THAT'S A PERFECT LITTLE FIRST COURSE.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

YOU'RE WELCOME.

BON APPETIT.

Julia: BON APPETIT.