Soft-Shell Crabs and Fresh Pasta with Jimmy Sneed

HELLO, I'M JULIA CHILD.

WELCOME TO MY HOUSE AND TO MY KITCHEN AND TO ANOTHER CULINARY ADVENTURE WITH ONE OF AMERICA'S MASTER CHEFS.

FROM RICHMOND, VIRGINIA AND HIS RESTAURANT, TH E FROG AND THE REDNECK... MY GUEST TODAY IS CHEF JIMMY SNEED.

JIMMY SNEED IS GOING TO DO US HIS FAMOUS SOFT-SHELL CRABS WITH COLE SLAW AND PASTA.

THAT SOUNDS WONDERFUL, JIMMY.

IT'S A GREAT DISH.

I THINK WE'D ALL LIKE TO KNOW A LOT ABOUT SOFT- SHELL CRABS BECAUSE NOW WE CAN GET THEM.

BUT WE DON'T KNOW ENOUGH ABOUT THEM.

WELL, SOFT SHELL CRABS ARE SO-CALLED BECAUSE THEY'VE SHED THEIR HARD SHELL.

AND EVERYTHING ABOUT THE CRAB IS COMPLETELY EDIBLE WITH THE EXCEPTION OF A FEW PARTS THAT WE'RE GOING TO TAKE OFF HERE NOW.

ALL RIGHT, WOULD YOU LIKE TO DO THAT WITH US?

I'D LIKE TO SEE HOW YOU DO IT.

SO FIRST, YOU GO WHERE THE BRAIN IS... TAKE THAT OFF.

AND THEN YOU TAKE OUT THE GILLS ON EITHER SIDE.

THOSE ARE JUST LIKE A LOBSTER'S GILLS THEY'RE INEDIBLE.

THEN YOU TAKE OFF THE APRON ON THE BACK.

AND ONCE YOU'VE DONE THAT YOU WANT TO GIVE A LITTLE SQUEEZE RIGHT IN THE CENTER AND THIS TAKES OUT A LITTLE SAND SAC AND THE TOMALLEY...

THE STOMACH OF THE CRAB.

YOU DON'T EAT THE TOMALLEY?

SOME PEOPLE LIKE IT.

YEAH, I LIKE IT.

SOME PEOPLE FIND IT A LITTLE BITTER, SO WE TAKE THAT OUT.

AND YOU ALSO HAVE A VERY SIMILAR PRODUCT RIGHT HERE UNDER THE WING WHICH LOOKS LIKE THE TAMALE BUT THAT'S STORED FAT.

AND THAT'S VERY GOOD.

THAT'S ALL THERE IS TO... WELL, THAT'S MUCH EASIER...

I ALWAYS THOUGHT YOU HAD TO PULL OUT THE INTESTINES NO, NO, NO.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO CLEAN ONE?

SURE.

I CUT THE FRONT OFF.

CUT THE... AND THAT'S WHERE THE BRAIN IS.

OKAY, NOW YOU LIFT UP EACH SIDE OF THE WING AND YOU CUT THE GILL.

BUT IS THE GILL KIND OF...

IT'S KIND OF FIBROUS.

THEY CALL IT THE "DEAD MAN'S FINGERS".

OH.

IT LOOKS LIKE GREY FINGERS LAYING ACROSS THE BACK.

IS IT VERY MUCH LIKE THE LOBSTER?

VERY MUCH, AND THEN THE APRON ON THE BACK.

OH, THERE'S THE BACK.

YEAH, LET'S OPEN THAT UP.

NOW JUST SNIP THAT OFF.

JUST OPEN IT UP AND CUT IT OFF.

YEAH.

NOW WHICH END DO I SQUEEZE NOW?

YOU SQUEEZE IT FROM THE FRONT.

YOU SEE THIS LITTLE SAC RIGHT HERE... YEAP.

IT USUALLY HAS A LITTLE SAND IN IT AND THAT'S RIGHT BEHIND THE EYES.

GIVE IT ONE SQUEEZE, AND JUST PULL THAT OUT.

THERE IT IS.

AND THERE IT IS.

ALL RIGHT, SO THESE ARE THE THREE CRABS THAT WE'RE GOING TO SAUTE UP A LITTLE BIT LATER.

AND HOW LONG WILL THEY KEEP AFTER YOU'VE CLEANED THEM?

ONCE YOU'VE DONE THIS...

I WOULDN'T KEEP THEM PAST A DAY.

YEAH.

WE'RE JUST GOING TO SERVE IT WITH A FRESH PASTA...

WHICH WE'RE GOING TO MAKE HERE, AND A LITTLE COLE SLAW.

IT'S VERY LIGHT, IT'S A SUMMER DISH... BECAUSE THAT'S THE ONLY TIME THAT CRABS SHED... IS BETWEEN MAY AND SEPTEMBER.

SO, IN KEEPING IN LINE WITH THE SIMPLICITY OF THE FOOD I LIKE TO COOK AND I LIKE TO SERVE... WE'RE GOING TO MAKE THE MOST SIMPLE OF ALL DISHES FRESH PASTA.

GOOD.

AND IT'S SIMPLE AND IT'S GREAT.

FRESH PASTA IS ONE OF THE GREAT FOODS OF THE WORLD AND IT HAS TWO INGREDIENTS.

AND ANYBODY IN THE WORLD CAN MAKE PASTA.

IT HAS FLOUR, AND IT HAS EGGS.

OKAY, SO WE'RE GOING TO TAKE... WHAT I DO IS I USE HALF SEMOLINA FLOUR AND HALF WHITE FLOUR, ALL-PURPOSE WHITE FLOUR.

YEAH.

THE PORTIONS IN THIS AREN'T TOO IMPORTANT?

THAT'S ABOUT A CUP OF STUFF YOU'VE GOT IN THERE.

I PURPOSEFULLY DID NOT MEASURE TO PROVE A POINT HERE WHICH I'LL SHOW AND THAT IS IT IS ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE TO MESS UP PASTA.

GOOD.

FOR ANYBODY, ANYBODY AT HOME.

A THREE YEAR OLD CHILD CAN DO THIS.

WHAT I'VE GOT IN HERE NOW AND I'M JUST GOING BY WHAT LOOKS RIGHT TO ME IS I'VE GOT THREE YOLKS, AND ONE WHOLE EGG.

AND THESE ARE BEAUTIFUL YOLKS.

I DON'T KNOW WHERE THESE YOLKS CAME FROM THEY'RE BEAUTIFUL.

MASSACHUSETTS YOLKS.

AND THEN WE'RE GOING TO PUT SOME SALT IN THERE SO THAT WHEN YOU COOK YOUR PASTA YOU'VE ACTUALLY GOT SOME SALT IN THE DOUGH.

AND THIS AGAIN, IS A MATTER OF TASTE.

AND AFTER WE MAKE THE DOUGH WE'LL BREAK A LITTLE PIECE OFF AND TASTE IT TO SEE IF IT'S GOT THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF SALT FOR US.

OKAY?

NOW, YOU MIX THIS ALL TOGETHER.

HERE'S WHY WE DON'T LIKE TO MEASURE.

FOR ONE THING...

IT'S VERY DIFFICULT TO MEASURE EGGS.

HOW BIG AN EGG ACTUALLY TURNS OUT TO BE.

AND WHEN WE DISCOVER THAT WE'VE GOT A PASTA HERE THAT'S TOO WET THEN ALL WE HAVE TO DO IS ADD A LITTLE BIT MORE FLOUR TO IT.

SO, WE'VE ADDED JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE FLOUR AND I'M GOING TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF SEMOLINA SO THAT THE BALANCE IS RIGHT.

IF I PUT TOO MUCH FLOUR IN... AND IT'S TOO DRY...

I MERELY ADD A LITTLE BIT OF EGG.

SO THE WORST THING THAT COULD HAPPEN IS THAT YOU END UP WITH A BALL OF PASTA MAYBE THIS BIG.

YOU COULD ALWAYS PUT IT IN THE FREEZER.

WE'RE GOING TO WORK THIS.

THAT'S PRETTY STIFF DOUGH.

THIS IS NICE.

WE GET THE CONSISTENCY WE WANT WHICH IS FAIRLY SOFT AND PLIABLE BUT NOT WET TO THE FEEL.

YEAH.

AND IF IT WERE A LITTLE BIT TOO WET JUST FOLD IN SOME MORE FLOUR LIKE THIS.

SO WE'RE GOING TO WORK THIS... AND THERE'S NO WATER IN THERE?

THERE'S NO WATER AT ALL...

EXACTLY.

JUST EGG POWER NOW WHAT WE'RE GOING TO DO HERE FOR COLOR IS WE'RE GOING TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF SAFFRON THAT WE'VE STEEPED IN HOT WATER.

SO WE'RE GOING TO PUT SOME OF THIS SAFFRON IN HERE... THAT'S EXPENSIVE STUFF.

THIS WOULD BE THE MOST EXPENSIVE SPICE IN THE WORLD.

YEAH.

SO WE DON'T USE MUCH OF IT.

NOW, AS FAR AS COLORING GOES THERE'S AN INFINITE NUMBER OF FLAVORINGS AND COLORINGS THAT YOU COULD ADD TO PASTA.

YOU CAN ADD GREEN PARSLEY PUREE... YOU COULD ADD FRESH DILL, YOU COULD ADD CHIVE... YOU COULD ADD SQUID... BEET JUICE?

BEET JUICE IS WONDERFUL WITH PASTA.

IF YOU LIKE THAT COLOR.

OKAY, AFTER THE SAFFRON THREADS HAVE STEEPED IN THE HOT WATER WE CAN STRAIN A LITTLE BIT OF THAT INTO HERE.

OKAY?

SO NOW WE'RE GOING TO HAVE TO WORK THIS AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY TOO MUCH ABOUT... ABOUT WORKING IT UNIFORMLY BECAUSE AS WE ROLL IT THROUGH THE MACHINE... WE'RE GOING TO KEEP FOLDING IT OVER... YEAH.

IT'S GOING TO INCORPORATE ITSELF INTO IT.

OKAY.

SO NOW, YOU KNOW, WE WERE VERY LUCKY WE ACTUALLY COULD HAVE DONE THIS WITHOUT ADDING ANY SAFFRON BECAUSE THESE YOLKS WERE SO YELLOW...

I DON'T KNOW WHERE THEY CAME FROM.

OKAY, SO NOW WE'VE GOT THE TEXTURE WE WANT.

IT'S NICE AND DOUGHY AND NOT STICKY TO THE TOUCH.

SO WE'RE GOING TO DUST THIS WITH A LITTLE FLOUR AND WRAP IT IN PLASTIC WRAP AND THEN SET THAT ASIDE TO REST.

YEAH.

AND HERE WE'VE GOT ONE THAT WE MADE YESTERDAY AND IT'S RESTED AND YOU SEE THE CONSISTENCY OF THIS?

THIS IS STILL GOOD.

IT LOOKS AND FEELS MUCH DRIER, YES.

YEAH, THIS IS A LITTLE DENSER JUST FROM HAVING RESTED AND IT'S STILL A LITTLE BIT COLD FROM BEING IN THE REFRIGERATOR.

OKAY, SO WHAT WE'RE GOING TO DO WITH THIS NOW IS WE'RE GOING TO WORK THIS THROUGH THE PASTA MACHINE.

THAT IS A LOVELY COLOR INSIDE... NICE AND YELLOW... THAT'S VERY YELLOW.

AND IT DOESN'T HAVE AN INTENSE FLAVOR OF SAFFRON.

IT'S JUST GOT A VERY LIGHT SAFFRON TASTE TO IT.

A LITTLE BIT.

OKAY, SO WE'RE GOING TO TAKE THIS NOW... WE'RE GOING TO RUN IT THROUGH THE MACHINE.

AND EACH TIME YOU DO... YOU'RE GOING TO HAVE TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF FLOUR TO MAKE SURE THAT IT DOESN'T STICK.

THIS IS A HAND-CRANK PASTA MACHINE...

EXACTLY WHAT YOU CAN FIND AT THE COOKWARE STORES.

WELL, THIS IS AN INDUSTRIAL SIZE?

IT IS INDEED.

I THINK ANYONE SHOULD GET THAT.

THEY DON'T COST MUCH, DO THEY?

THIS BIG ONE WAS ABOUT $500.

THAT MUCH?

BUT YOU CAN BUY THEM FOR ABOUT $45 AT A COOKWARE STORE.

OKAY, SO EACH TIME WE PUT IT IN NOW WE'RE GOING TO CLOSE THE ROLLERS A LITTLE BIT MORE AND IT GETS THINNER AND THINNER... OH, IT HAS A KNOB OVER THERE.

IT DOES... AND WE'RE GOING TO FOLD IT OVER AND WE'RE FOLDING IT OVER FOR TWO REASONS.

ONE IS TO SQUARE UP THE EDGES...

SO THAT THEY MAKE A NICE STRAIGHT LINE AND ANOTHER IS TO MAKE SURE THAT EVERYTHING...

THE COLOR AND ALL IS INCORPORATED EVENLY THROUGHOUT.

SO NOW WE'RE GOING TO HAVE TO OPEN THEM UP JUST A LITTLE BIT.

AND AGAIN, EACH TIME WE PASS IT THROUGH... WE GIVE IT A LITTLE BIT OF FLOUR AND WE CRANK IT DOWN ANOTHER NOTCH FOLD IT ONE MORE TIME, AND THEN WORK IT OUT.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU FOLD IT ON THE WHOLE?

WELL REALLY, YOU NEED TO DO IT AT LEAST SIX OR SEVEN TIMES TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING'S FULLY INCORPORATED.

IT'S REALLY A QUESTION OF APPEARANCE.

IF THE COLOR'S NICE AND UNIFORM THROUGHOUT AND IF THE EDGES START LOOKING NICE AND STRAIGHT.

OKAY NOW, I'M GOING TO TAKE IT DOWN.

EACH TIME I PASS IT THROUGH TO MAKE IT THINNER...

I'M GOING TO ADD A LITTLE FLOUR TO IT EACH TIME.

JUST A LITTLE BIT, JUST ENOUGH TO COAT IT.

IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PASTA MACHINE THIS IS VERY EASILY DONE WITH A ROLLING PIN.

YOU ROLL IT OUT THINNER AND THINNER.

IT'S DIFFICULT TO GET IT MAYBE THIS THIN.

YOU'RE EXACTLY RIGHT.

I'M JUST ABOUT THERE.

WE'RE JUST ABOUT THE CONSISTENCY I LIKE IT.

IT'S FUN TO DO, ISN'T IT?

OKAY, NOW WE'RE GOING TO CUT THE PASTA.

ALL RIGHT, NOW TO CUT THIS...

IT'S REALLY VERY EASY.

THE TRICK HERE IS YOU WANT LOTS OF FLOUR... YEAH.

SO THAT WE CAN CUT IT.

SO WE'RE GOING TO REALLY PUT... A NICE LAYER OF FLOUR ON TOP OF THIS.

SO IT'S NOT GOING TO STICK TOGETHER, RIGHT?

THAT'S SO IT WON'T STICK TOGETHER BECAUSE WE'RE GOING TO ROLL THIS NOW.

YOU START BY FOLDING IT A COUPLE TIMES ABOUT AN INCH WIDE AND THEN JUST GO AHEAD AND ROLL IT.

SO, YOU'RE GOING TO MAKE A CHIFFONNADE.

WE'RE GOING TO MAKE THIS REALLY LOOK LIKE IT'S HOMEMADE.

NOW YOU'VE GOT THE END PIECE HERE WHICH YOU WANT TO TAKE OFF BECAUSE THE EDGES ARE KIND OF JAGGED SO IT'S NOT ALL THAT ATTRACTIVE, BUT VERY TASTY.

THEN YOU CAN MAKE IT... AS THICK OR THIN AS YOU'D LIKE.

EXACTLY.

ANYBODY CAN DO IT, ANYBODY WITH A KNIFE.

IT'D BE A NICE THING FOR YOUR CHILDREN TO DO.

ARE YOURS MAKING PASTA?

THEY ARE INDEED.

THEY DIDN'T BELIEVE ME WHEN I TOLD THEM THEY COULDN'T MESS IT UP UNTIL THEY ACTUALLY TRIED IT.

WE'VE GOT A COAT HANGER... THAT'S GREAT.

THIS IS A PLASTIC COAT HANGER.

THE WIRE ONES DON'T WORK VERY WELL... BECAUSE THE WEIGHT OF THE PASTA ON THE WIRE TENDS TO BREAK THE PASTA.

YOU COULD COOK THIS RIGHT AWAY AND IT WILL COOK IN 15 OR 20 SECONDS, OKAY?

OR YOU COULD LET IT DRY.

FIND A CONVENIENT PLACE IN THE HOUSE TO SET THAT UP AND LET IT DRY.

AND, THEN IT TAKES MAYBE A MINUTE TO COOK IT.

YEAH, THAT'S WONDERFUL.

HERE WE'RE GOING TO MAKE THE DRESSING FOR THE COLE SLAW.

YEAH.

ALL RIGHT, SO WE'VE GOT OUR SUGAR AND OUR WATER BOILING TOGETHER HERE.

SUGAR TENDS TO HOLD A LOT OF BACTERIA SO YOU ALWAYS PRETTY MUCH WANT TO BOIL THE SUGAR.

SO TO THIS WE'RE GOING TO ADD A VERY TRADITIONAL CHESAPEAKE BAY SPICE.

THIS IS OLD BAY SEASONING.

THIS IS A SEASONING THEY USE TO BOIL CRABS WITH.

IF I DIDN'T HAVE OLD BAY SEASONING... LET'S SEE WHAT WE'VE GOT IN HERE.

THIS CAN BE FOUND EVERYWHERE.

EVEN IN BOSTON, MASS?

I GUARANTEE IT.

AND WE'RE GOING TO ADD SOME FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER TO THAT.

I'M GOING TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF SALT.

WE'RE GOING TO LET THAT COME TO A BOIL.

YEAP.

AND WHEN IT DOES, WE'RE GOING TO TAKE IT OFF AND WE'RE GOING TO LET IT COOL.

YEAP, THERE WE GO.

OKAY, WHILE THAT'S GOING ON... TO ADD A LITTLE BIT OF COLOR TO THIS DISH... WE'LL ADD JULIENNED RED AND YELLOW PEPPERS.

WE BLANCH MOST ALL OF OUR VEGETABLES IN RAPIDLY BOILING, SALTED WATER.

WE'RE GOING TO DO THAT WITH ALL THE VEGETABLES THAT WE SERVE HERE TODAY.

AND AGAIN, WE TAKE OUT THE SEEDS.

YEAP.

SO BY BLANCHING THESE VEGETABLES FIRST... BEFORE YOU USE THEM IN SALTED WATER YOU TAKE OUT THE BITTERNESS SO THEY HAVE MUCH MORE OF THEIR OWN NATURAL FLAVOR.

OKAY AND NOW... WE ALWAYS LIKE TO CUT THIS SKIN SIDE DOWN BECAUSE THE SKIN IS TOUGH AND THE KNIFE HAS A TENDENCY TO SLIP OFF THAT.

AND YOU MIGHT CUT YOURSELF.

SO WE'RE GOING TO DO IT SKIN SIDE DOWN HERE INTO NICE LITTLE STRIPS.

SINCE THIS IS GOING IN THE COLE SLAW WE WANT TO CUT THOSE IN HALF ONE TIME.

NOT TWO HALVES, BUT... LIKE THAT.

OKAY -- AND WE'LL DO THE SAME WITH THE YELLOW.

SO YOU TAKE YOUR WATER AND THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT.

I THINK THE SINGLE, MOST BASIC FUNDAMENTAL ABOUT COOKING THAT I LEARNED FROM THE FRENCH IS THE USE OF SEA SALT.

AND YOU REALLY NEED TO PUT A FAIR AMOUNT INTO IT BECAUSE YOU WANT TO COOK SALT INTO YOUR FOOD YOU DON'T REALLY WANT TO ADD SALT TO THE TOP OF IT.

SO WE'RE GOING TO, NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THAT... AND YOU ALWAYS USE SEA SALT?

ALWAYS USE SEA SALT.

IT'S GOT SEVERAL DIFFERENT KINDS OF SALT IN IT... AND IT ALSO DOESN'T HAVE IODINE.

SO THOSE ARE JUST GOING TO BLANCH NOW JUST TILL ABOUT 15 SECONDS OF BOILING.

AND AGAIN, YOU'RE NOT TRYING TO COOK THESE.

YOU'RE JUST GIVING THEM A QUICK BLANCH TO REDUCE THE BITTERNESS THAT'S IN THEM.

AND THAT'S JUST 15 SECONDS OF BOILING THERE.

OKAY, AND THEN YOU PUT IT IMMEDIATELY INTO ICE WATER AND THIS DOES TWO THINGS... OF COURSE THIS HELPS RETAIN THE COLOR.

IN FACT, IT MAKES THEM A LITTLE BIT BRIGHTER THAN THEY ORIGINALLY WERE.

AND THAT KEEPS THE TEXTURE TOO?

AND IT KEEPS THEM FROM OVERCOOKING.

YEAH.

BECAUSE IF YOU DON'T PUT THEM IN ICE WATER THE HEAT THAT'S IN THEM NOW WILL CONTINUE TO COOK THEM.

OKAY, NOW WE'RE GOING TO PUT SOME CARROTS INTO THIS DISH TOO.

WE'RE GOING TO WANT TO JULIENNE THIS.

AND THIS IS A FRENCH MANDOLINE THAT COSTS $260.

IT'S A GOOD TOOL.

YOU HAVE TO TREAT THEM WITH CARE.

AND YOU'RE GOING TO WANT TO TAKE THIS DOWN TO THE CENTER.

YOU'RE NOT GOING TO WANT TO GET THE CENTER, REALLY.

AND THESE ARE A LITTLE BIT LONG NOW SO WE'RE JUST GOING TO LINE THESE UP.

AND AGAIN, GIVE THEM ONE CUT.

SO I'M GOING TO PUT THAT IN THE BOWL.

OUR PEPPERS NOW NEED TO BE DRAINED.

THAT'S A BEAUTIFUL COLOR, ISN'T IT?

YEAH, THIS IS GOING TO ADD A NICE COLOR.

AND THEY'RE STILL CRISP.

OH, THEY'RE BEAUTIFUL.

THAT'S A VERY GOOD IDEA, I THINK.

OKAY, SO WE'RE GOING TO ADD SOME SCALLION NOW WHICH ADDS ANOTHER DIMENSION OF COLOR.

WE'RE JUST GOING TO TAKE THE ENDS OFF HERE THAT HAVE GOTTEN A LITTLE BIT DRY.

AND WE'RE JUST GOING TO SLICE THE SCALLIONS.

YOU'RE GOING TO USE ALL THE GREEN TOO?

YEAH, I LIKE THE GREEN, IT GIVES A NICE COLOR AND IT GIVES A NICE ONIONY FLAVOR.

AND THEN WE'LL TAKE IT ALL THE WAY RIGHT DOWN TO NEAR THE ROOTS HERE.

VERY THIN SLICES.

AND THE ROOTS, OF COURSE... YOU'VE GOT A LITTLE WOODY PART RIGHT NEAR THE END OF THE ROOT SO YOU'RE NOT GOING TO WANT TO USE THAT.

OKAY, SO NOW WE'VE GOT OUR PEPPERS... OUR CARROTS, OUR SCALLIONS.

THE ONLY THING LEFT IS THE CABBAGE ITSELF.

AND THIS IS JUST YOUR ORDINARY GREEN CABBAGE THAT YOU'D FIND IN THE GROCERY STORE.

CUT OUT THE HARD PART THAT YOU DON'T WANT TO USE.

DO YOU EVER USE A FOOD PROCESSOR TO DO CABBAGE WITH?

I ONCE HAD A FRENCH CHEF TELL ME IF YOU CAN DO IT BY HAND, DO IT BY HAND OTHERWISE ONE DAY WE'LL BE OBSOLETE.

SO ACTUALLY THE FOOD PROCESSOR'S...

IF YOU GET THE RIGHT BLADE FOR IT...

IT DOES A FINE JOB.

THE THICK, WOODY PART YOU DON'T WANT TO USE.

NO.

NOW WE'RE GETTING DOWN TO THAT NOW AND SO WE'LL SET THAT ASIDE.

AND YOU'VE GOT YOUR CABBAGE.

OKAY... AND NOW ALL WE HAVE HERE... WE MADE UP A LITTLE BIT EARLIER SO IT WOULD BE NICE AND COLD.

THAT'S THAT SAUCE WE JUST MADE.

THIS IS THE DRESSING FOR IT.

YOU HAVE TO PUT IT ON COOL.

YEAH.

YOU DON'T WANT TO COOK OR WILT THE CABBAGE WITH IT.

YOU WANT TO PUT IT ON A BIT AHEAD OF TIME?

YEAH, YOU WANT IT TO SIT IN THE SAUCE FOR ABOUT AN HOUR.

AND NOT A LOT LONGER THAN THAT.

TO FINISH IT... WE'VE GOT SOME FRESH GINGER WHICH I LOVE.

I LOVE, I USE A FAIR AMOUNT OF GINGER.

AND WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND GRATE THAT.

A QUESTION OF PERSONAL TASTE HOW MUCH OF THIS YOU WANT TO ADD TO IT.

SINCE I'M SOMETHING OF A PURIST WHEN IT COMES TO SOFT CRABS AND I DON'T WANT A LOT OF EXTRANEOUS FLAVORS...

VERY SENSIBLE...

SO I PUT MY FLAVOR HERE IN THE SIDE DISH.

LET ME JUST SCRAPE THAT AND USE THAT.

AND NOW YOU'RE GOING TO WANT TO... YOU'RE GOING TO WANT TO TOSS THIS... WITH A FORK.

AND GET IT ALL NICELY MIXED.

YOU'RE GOING TO REFRIGERATE THIS... AND LET IT MARINATE FOR ABOUT AN HOUR.

I'M GONNA TASTE THAT SAUCE.

UM...

I LIKE THAT, IT'S UNUSUAL.

OKAY, SO NOW WE'RE GOING TO TAKE... WE'RE GOING TO PUT THIS IN THE REFRIGERATOR.

WE'LL SET THIS ASIDE.

YEAH.

THE CABBAGE NEEDS TO WILT A BIT ANYWAY -- DOESN'T IT?

IT DOES, YOU DON'T WANT IT TOO CRUNCHY AND ALSO BY MARINATING IT IN THIS... YOU TAKE OUT AGAIN...

THE LITTLE BIT OF BITTERNESS IN THE CABBAGE.

YEAH, GOOD.

OKAY, NOW WE'RE READY TO SAUTE THE SOFT-SHELL CRABS.

WE'VE GOT THE THREE CRABS THAT WE'VE CLEANED ALREADY AND I'VE GOT THEM SKIN SIDE DOWN SO THAT THE SKIN STAYS IN THE JUICE.

YEAH.

I DO THAT SO THE FLOUR STICKS TO IT.

GIVES US A NICE LITTLE BROWN COATING.

I'M GOING TO SET THOSE IN THE FLOUR.

YOU'RE NOT SEASONING THEM AT ALL?

NO SALT, NO PEPPER, NO NOTHING.

YOU DON'T NEED IT...YEAP, GOOD.

THIS IS ONE OF THOSE PRODUCTS WHERE IT'S BEST EATEN THE WAY IT IS... GOOD...

THOUGH A FIRM BELIEVER IN SALT THESE ARE SO FRESH NOW...

THEY HAVE A LOT OF SALT WATER IN THEM FROM THE RIVER.

GREAT.

SO WE'RE GOING TO GET OUR PAN READY HERE NOW.

WE'RE CLARIFYING SOME BUTTER... BY THAT, WE'RE SIMMERING IT... TO SEPARATE THE MILK SOLIDS FROM THE FAT THE NICE LITTLE FOAM ON TOP WHICH YOU DISCARD.

THE REASON YOU USE CLARIFIED BUTTER FOR THIS DISH IS BECAUSE WHOLE BUTTER WILL BURN AT THE TEMPERATURES WE'RE USING.

BECAUSE OF THE BURNING WE'RE GOING TO USE A LITTLE BIT OF CANOLA OIL AND ONCE AGAIN... THAT'S TO RAISE THE TEMPERATURE OF... OF WHAT YOU CAN COOK WITH HERE.

AND NOW THAT WE'VE SKIMMED IT WE'RE GOING TO TAKE SOME OF THIS CLARIFIED BUTTER RIGHT OFF THE TOP AND WE'RE GOING TO PUT THAT IN HERE.

WE'VE GOT A NICE HOT PAN.

NOW JULIA, WHEN I PUT THESE...

WHEN I PUT THESE CRABS IN THE PAN WE HAVE TO STAND BACK... YEAH.

BECAUSE WHEN THEY'RE THIS FRESH THE STEAM BUILDS UP INSIDE OF THEM BECAUSE THEY'RE JUST LOADED WITH RIVER WATER AND THEY NEED TO FIND A WAY OUT.

SO THEY'RE GOING TO EXPLODE AT ONE POINT AND WE DON'T WANT TO BE NEAR THEM WHEN THEY DO.

NOW THE IDEA IS TO PAT OFF AS MUCH OF THIS BUTTER AS WE CAN... OR FLOUR, RATHER.

I'M STANDING WELL AWAY.

I ALSO AM STANDING WELL AWAY AND I'VE COOKED SEVERAL THOUSAND OF THESE.

NOW YOU CAN TELL, WE CAN TELL BY THE SIZZLE THAT WE'VE GOT THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE HERE BECAUSE IF YOU'RE NOT SIZZLING THEM YOU'RE UNFORTUNATELY, YOU'RE STEWING THEM.

YEAH.

OKAY, NOW THIS ISN'T GOING TO TAKE LONG AT ALL.

THIS IS JUST GOING TO TAKE A MINUTE ON EACH SIDE SO WE WANT TO MAKE SURE WE'VE GOT THE RIGHT TEMPERATURE.

YEAH, I CAN SEE WHAT YOU MEAN, POP.

PREDICTION CAME TRUE HERE.

IT'S SMELLING GOOD.

AND WHILE THOSE ARE COOKING...

SINCE THEY'RE NOT GOING TO TAKE LONG WE'RE GOING TO GO AHEAD AND ADD THE PASTA TO SOME STOCK HERE.

NOW I ALWAYS COOK MY PASTA IN STOCK AND IF YOU DON'T MAKE YOUR OWN STOCK THAN YOU CAN CERTAINLY USE SOME OF THE CANNED STOCKS... LOW-SALT STOCKS THAT ARE OUT THERE.

AND SINCE THAT'S NOT QUITE BOILING HERE I'M JUST GONNA COVER THIS TO BRING IT TO A BOIL.

AND IF YOU EVER START TO LOSE THAT SIZZLE YOU'RE GOING TO HAVE TO GIVE IT A LITTLE MORE HEAT IT'S GOT TO SIZZLE THE ENTIRE TIME IT'S COOKING.

OKAY, SO NOW THIS SIDE'S DONE SO WE'RE GOING TO TURN THEM OVER AND AS YOU CAN SEE, THAT FLOUR'S GIVEN US A NICE... NICE LITTLE NUTTY COATING HERE.

AND THERE'S STILL THE POSSIBILITY THESE MIGHT POP SO WE DON'T WANT TO GET TOO CLOSE TO THEM.

THAT'S BECAUSE ALL THAT STEAM IS RIGHT IN THERE, ISN'T IT?

THEY'RE JUST SO LOADED WITH MOISTURE.

WE'RE JUST ABOUT THERE WITH THIS AND I CAN SEE OUR PASTA'S BOILING.

Julia: THAT'S A NICE IDEA, COOKING IT IN THE STOCK.

Sneed: ALWAYS COOK IN A STOCK, IT ADDS A REAL RICHNESS TO IT.

Julia: OF COURSE IT WOULD, YES.

Sneed: OKAY, NOW WE'RE GOING TO TAKE A LITTLE NUGGET OF COLD BUTTER HERE AND WE'RE GOING TO ADD THIS TO OUR PASTA.

AND WE'RE GOING TO DO WHAT THE FRENCH CALL A LITTLE LIAISON.

AND WHAT YOU NEED FOR THAT IS A LITTLE BIT OF LIQUID IN THE PAN WHICH IN THIS CASE IS THE STOCK AND COLD BUTTER.

AND NOW WE'RE JUST GOING TO SWIRL IT AROUND... TO INCORPORATE THAT BUTTER INTO THE STOCK.

AND THAT PAN'S THE RIGHT SHAPE... FOR SWIRLING, ISN'T IT?

IT'S PERFECT.

YEAH.

AND YOU'VE GOT TO KEEP SWIRLING.

OTHERWISE THE BUTTER WILL MELT AND TURN OILY.

BUT AS YOU CAN SEE NOW WE'RE MAKING A NICE FINE LITTLE BUTTER SAUCE THAT'S GOING TO LAY OVER THE PASTA.

ALL RIGHT, THE CRABS ARE DONE.

WE'RE GOING TO LAY THEM ON THE PLATE.

HOW DO YOU TELL THAT THEY'RE DONE?

WELL, BY VIRTUE OF THE FACT... THAT IT JUST TAKES A FEW SECONDS TO STEAM THEM INSIDE.

WELL, IT IS JUST A VERY, VERY SHORT TIME ANYWAY?

ABOUT A MINUTE PER SIDE.

SO WE'VE GOT THAT... WE'VE GOT OUR PASTA.

WE'RE GONNA WANT TO TASTE THIS... JUST TO MAKE SURE THAT WE'VE GOT ENOUGH SEASONING TO IT.

THAT'S ONE OF THE NICE PARTS OF COOKING.

AND THAT SALT'S GOOD.

WITH JUST A LITTLE BIT OF FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER.

AND THEN FOR COLOR WE'RE GOING TO ADD SOME DICED CHIVES.

IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH... WE'VE GOT ONE PORTION HERE.

SO WE'LL PUT THAT IN.

NOW WE'RE GOING TO PUT THE PASTA ON THE PLATE.

THAT BUTTER HAS MADE A NICE LIGHT COATING.

OH, THAT'S LOVELY.

IT GIVES A GREAT FLAVOR TO THE PASTA.

ALL RIGHT, AND NOW WE'RE GOING TO ADD SOME OF THE COLE SLAW.

TOSS IT FROM THE BOTTOM BECAUSE THAT'S WHERE THE MARINADE IS.

AND YOU SEE THIS ADDS... NOT ONLY A NICE LITTLE ZING BUT IT ALSO ADDS... BEAUTIFUL COLOR...YES.

AND THEN TO FINISH IT OFF WE'RE GOING TO TAKE A LEMON.

ALWAYS RUBBING IT TO GET THE JUICE GET THE JUICES RUNNING?

ROLL IT.

EXACTLY.

AND THIS LITTLE DEVICE HERE... TO GET THE JUICE OUT OF IT.

BEAUTIFUL.

ALL RIGHT, AND NOW I'M JUST GOING TO TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF THIS CLARIFIED BUTTER.

AGAIN, YOU WANT TO STIR AWAY AND YOU CAN SEE NOW ALL OF THE MILK SOLIDS HAVE FALLEN TO THE BOTTOM AND EVERYTHING THAT'S LEFT IS JUST THE CLARIFIED BUTTER AND THIS IS WHAT YOU WANT.

THAT'S LOVELY, THAT WILL KEEP IN THE FRIDGE... THAT WILL KEEP IN THE REFRIGERATOR A LONG TIME.

IT CERTAINLY WILL.

LEMON BUTTER, THAT'S A NICE WAY TO DO IT.

JUST A LITTLE LEMON BUTTER, VERY SIMPLE.

WE'RE JUST GOING TO... JUST GOING TO PAINT... JUST GOING TO DAB THAT ON THE CRABS JUST TO GIVE THEM THAT LITTLE.

THAT'S A LOVELY, AN AWFULLY NICE IDEA.

BECAUSE I DON'T WANT TO PUT A SAUCE OF ANY KIND ON THEM.

IT'S JUST A FINAL LITTLE TOUCH HERE, WE'LL PUT... WHAT WOULD WE DO WITHOUT PARSLEY?

AND WE'RE JUST GOING... TO SPRINKLE A LITTLE BIT OF THAT ON THE CRAB.

VERY REFRESHING, VERY SUMMERY... THAT'S LOVELY.

VERY EASY TO PRODUCE.

I'M GOING TO COME RIGHT DOWN TO YOUR RESTAURANT.

WISH YOU WOULD.

ALL RIGHT, THANK YOU.

THANK YOU.

Sneed: AT THE CORDON BLEU IN PARIS, I LEARNED THE RESPECT FOR THE PRODUCT.

AND I REALIZED THAT PEOPLE... ALL THEY REALLY WANTED WAS SIMPLE FOOD.

SIMPLE FOOD IS ONE OF...

THE MORE DIFFICULT FOODS TO PREPARE BECAUSE...

IT CERTAINLY IS.

IT'S JUST, IT STANDS BY ITSELF.

IF IT'S NOT FRESH, AND IF IT'S NOT WELL BALANCED IF THE FLAVORS AREN'T RIGHT... THAN IT'S JUST COMMON FOOD.

BON APPETIT.